Continuing - So what did you do to your bike today...?

[grog]

Today was clean, check clutch slave cylinder.Busa seal been in their for years,hardly any crap to clean out after all that time.Suspect also as only use gear oil for chain. Cleaned lubed pushrod &seal, changed fluid.Clutch always feels nicer with fresh blood in it👍

[Hooli]

Stroppy Progress!

Half a day on this today as some bits turned up the other day & I had some energy for once. Carbs are now ethanol proof with 'stay up' floats, new needle valves and bigger mainjets as it used to run lean. Rocker boxes are on, the front one took ages as a rocker kept missing the pushrod & it's a bugger to get both seated right at once. Head steady on & carbs fitted. I was going to fill & bleed the front brakes, but the bleed nipples are seized, so I soaked them in plus gas & fitted the 650 clutch springs instead. 650 springs are suggested with the 7-plate clutch I've got to give a lighter lever without slipping.

I need to clean some other bits up before I fit them. The headlight, throttle cables & new (to me) rearsets for starters. I need to set the clutch up properly with a new cable before I put primary cover on too, but it's more progress than there's been for ages.

Have pics...

As she started off today, the rocker box is only loosely in place



New floats and mainjets



Everything that's been fitted today on



As it's stood for a while, I put some oil down the plug holes before turning it over by hand to fit the rocker boxes & later set the tappets. I did oil the rings etc when I assembled it, but I suspect most has dripped down.

You're meant to put about 1/2 pint of oil in the crankcase before start up so the return side of the pump (which feeds the rockers & valve gear) has something to work with. I plan to do that via the valve covers right before start up so the cams etc get a fresh coating of oi too.

[KiwiCol]

Looks brilliant Hooli, it's waaaay more in depth than I'm capable of.     

[Eric GSX1400K3]

Nice one mate

[grog]

Well done Hooli👍Back in 1974 rebuilt T140, only had T120 manual. Timing marks very different.Me and a mate took turns, all night affair,maybe 20 times b4 we got it right. Thats a lot of beers but we did it.No internet help then.

[Hooli]

Aye doesn't help that the marks only line up every godknowshowmany turns of the crank either does it grog?

It' got a quicker exhaust cam in it, but thankfullya  modern one that uses the normal timing marks. Back in the day you had to time the quicker cams differently. For those that don't know, the 750cc blew timing side crank bearings in testing, so rather than upgrade the bearing they strangled it with a mild exhaust cam. I've uprated the crank bearing from ball to three piece roller to match the better cam.

If I don't slack off, I can get it far enough to go next door for the leccy box to be made next week, After that it's just fix the fibreglass seat, get that recovered & made wider & thicker, then a custom loom & she's built. Will need fresh tyres & tubes before it touches the road though.

[grog]

Hooli, think from memory marks only line up every 96 turns.

[Andre]

the marks only line up every godknowshowmany turns of the crank either does it grog?

Grog knows. Must be a god

[grog]

No God Andre, just something from an old blokes memory.Not really a God believer. Those old Triumphs, ok bikes but vibration really wasnt their friend, if 14 vibrated as much, wed have many more things to talk about. A post here recently, Norton Atlas, had one of them,they sent vibration to a new level, they rate them as a good bike, load of crap, 20ks and about their all you could stand.

[Hooli]

I've been trying to work out how the rearsets fit on Stroppy today. I got them 2nd hand but with all the correct bolts & spacers according to the seller. The parts all look the same so I'd say they are all the right bits, but they don't seem to fit on my bike.

On both sides, the  rearset hits the swingarm pivot bolt before the spacers are tight to the frame. Quite a long way before, there's nearly 1/4" gap in some cases. I can't see any other way they'd fit either.

Here's the nearside



The problem here is the bolt that retains the peg is hitting the swingarm pivot.



The offside



One this side the rearsets hit the frame before the spacers fit.



Plus as the mounting bolts differ in their location compared to the swingarm pivot, doesn't that mean the pegs wouldn't be directly opposite each other? Looks to me like the RH peg will be higher & further forwards, surely that can't be right?

While doing this job I also noted the arm that is meant to actuate the rear brake master cylinder hits the frame, which doesn't seem right to me?



I'm also a bit concerned by the misalignment to the side of the arm & the master cylinder rod.

Finally I found out the rear master cylinder has seized while stored, which is handy. So I'll have to sort that now.

On the bright side, the front bleed nipples came out after a few days soaking in plusgas & wd40.

[Hooli]

I've had a thought on this after sitting reading a book & forgetting about it for the afternoon.

I think I might need the engine plates (which mount the rear of the engine to the frame) fitting as well as the rear sets. That'd provide enough spacing so everything fits. The reason I hadn't done it that was is the old rear sets are made as part of the engine plates so I'd assumed the whole lot was aftermarket tat & not required as these would replace them. I've asked the question on a Triumph forum, I know some there run the Hyde rear sets so I should get an answer this evening.

I think it'd also fix the offset in the brake mech as it'd move out the pivot tube that lever section sits inside.

[Hooli]

Yes, that seems to work. I still don't like how the pegs appear to be in different places, but there's nothing I can do about that.

It's not assembled as I need to rebuild the rear master cylinder first or the whole lot would need to come off again for that job. The nearside has an awful spacer brazed onto the engine plate that needs to come off so that side isn't done either.

I assume the best way to remove a brazed on bit is aim a blow torch at t till it falls off?

[Eric GSX1400K3]

I'm sure you'll get these things sorted mate, I don't know much about these old Triumphs, but I can see what you mean, I hope the engine plates will sort out the peg location for you.

Yes, a brazed joint can be undone by heating with a blow torch hot enough to melt the brazing solder.

[Hooli]

I had to go buy some bolts this morning as the non-standard 1/4" left offset of the engine makes things more fun. I don't have spacers the right size so had to get 4 washers into various places & try to line them all up while pushing bolts in & holding spacers etc. It was rather frustrating, but it's done now.

Have some pics that don't look very different to the last ones considering how long it took to do the work to make the differences.






I've managed to lose the little lump with the oil pipe connections on which attaches to the rear of the timing case. I'll have to search the kitchen worktop till I find it as I need that & the oil lines attached too it before I can fit the gearbox outer cover. That's because the gearbox cover hides the oil lines so there's no access to do them later. Rather annoyingly I know I saw it the other week & left it on the side as I didn't need it yet...

[Hooli]

Ah ha!

In the same box as the bolts for the engine covers I couldn't find along with all the bits for the ignition to fit the points on.