Continuing - So what did you do to your bike today...?

[T250]

What mileage? as I'm nosy & find those filters last about 50k in my experience.

Low miles, but this was the bike I rescued about 6 years ago, inside of the tank is clean but I just thought I'd replace the old filter, I haven't cut it open yet to have a look inside, it does feel heavier at one end than the new one, so perhaps there could be sludge in there?

https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=2808.0

[grog]

T250, been 6 yrs since youre amazing resto, totally amazing what you did. Rust heap to perfect. Just re read every post/pic.

[T250]

Cheers Grog, can't believe it was that long ago 

[Hooli]

To kick this thread off again now we're back...

I put my 14 back together again yesterday. Not been out on her yet as just not in the mood, but she's ready to go. I slightly rerouted the scottoiler pipe work too as the vacuum hose used to get in the way when doing stuff, so it now runs down the RH side of the frame away from all the wiring.

As a little bonus while the bike was apart I fixed the luggage hooks that'd seized years ago. They now work again & have a load of ACF50 in the pivots to stop them seizing again.

No pics, as that isn't working yet.

[Hooli]

Pics!




Edit for no reason...

[Hooli]

I know you lot like these posts...

Hooli's garage appears open for business again...

My mate A-tard has been having problems with her Sporty. Brake lights stuck on, neutral light not always working which was affecting the starting circuit, indicator telltale very weak at times and she needs a rack fitting.

Well the rack mounts are on, piece of piss with it in the air. Impossible without a jack though as there's no room around the wheel to get to the nuts without dropping the rear shocks & jacking it right up. The rear brake light switch was giving an open circuit error & keeping the lights on, I think it might be filthy contacts looking at it, I'll find out when I plug it back in. Neutral switch is hall effect so I can't test it, but the drive belt was mega tight so I'm wondering if that had an effect as the pulley is right near the switch. I hope so as a bolt is seized in a brass insert that spins so I can't get into the connectors to unplug the neutral switch yet. A very tight belt might explain why she couldn't find neutral a lot of the time to, along with the massive slack in the clutch cable.

For some reason HD are wankers when they make Sportys, they are about twice as difficult to work on as mine. Everything has something in the way, you have to take the exhaust off to get to the brake switch & it's a bloody hydraulic switch. Exhaust, foot peg mount, rear laster cylinder, pulley cover and the belt have to come off to get to the neutral switch, ffs....

[KiwiCol]

Correct again Hooli, we do like these threads.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

OK, I'll add to this.  Not the 1402, but my '09 BMW K1300GT SE just clocked over 100,000km.  The front suspension is the tele-lever type, with two leading links, two ball joints, a single spring strut, and steering linkages.  Over the last 2000km, the front end was wandering around, and the bike would not hold a line through corners, and there was a clunk when the road surface got a bit rough.  Pretty common on these, the ball joints wear in their sockets. So, front wheel off, all the Tupperware, brakes and radiator guard etc out of the way to remove the front tele-lever, then I needed to get the bj out, need heat to break the loctite in the threads.  New ball joints in, all back together and all smooth again. Also used the opportunity to change the brake fluid, brake pads front and rear, the clutch mineral oil and inspect the clutch basket, and replace the front TPM sensor.  These K series run a dry sump, and a wet clutch, so oil is fed via a chain driven oil pump to centre of the clutch, where centripetal force throws the oil out where it needs to be.  Wear includes the basket teeth, the basket bearing, and slave cylinder/oil supply pin. Checked all these and am happy to report no wear.  Now, all back together, runs and rides sweet.

Piccys below:

Front end ready to come out

Heat to get the ball joints to release, about 100deg C required.

New ball joints, leading links cleaned up, and thr offset 50 and 55 mm socket spanners required to do them up

[Eric GSX1400K3]

And a couple more pics....
Clutch basket

Slave cylinder push rod with twin oil grooves and bearing

Front telelever with new ball joints and leading links cleaned up and refitted.

[grog]

Well done you two mechanics👍I know nothing now- im retired, memory wiped blank. 😂 Didnt know, never thought about, ball joints on a bike.They say you learn something everyday.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

Well done you two mechanics👍I know nothing now- im retired, memory wiped blank. 😂 Didnt know, never thought about, ball joints on a bike.They say you learn something everyday.

very humble Mr. Grog, I'm sure you've retained a thing or two.  Hope you are now able to do what you want, not what you need to do.

[Mick_J]

Hooli,  Harley belts are quite tight, especially compared to a chain so bear that in mind when refitting it.

[Hooli]

Hooli,  Harley belts are quite tight, especially compared to a chain so bear that in mind when refitting it.

I know mate, I've got a Sport Glide myself.

This one was so tight you could play tunes on it though.

[grog]

American bike playing tunes, Pearl Jam not Led Zep im guessing.

[Hooli]

It took two 1/4 turns on the adjusters just to stop the belt being under tension, so it was a bit Motley.

Had I mentioned the nuts on the front downpipe were half rounded on the engine studs? obviously fitted by a ham fisted fool who used a 3/8" ratchet. You need a 1/4" to get between the frame & the down pipe or you can't get square enough on them. Still they came off ok with a 6-sided socket, so they can go back on when I'm done.