Continuing - So what did you do to your bike today...?

[Irish in Oz]

My K7 has been in storage for 7 1/2 years.
Fresh 98 premium, new battery and off she goes. Little erattic on tickover for short time then running sweet.
Off for a blue slip next.

Do you always use 98 ron ?
I've found mine runs fine on 95 ron 😳

Only put 98 in to hopefully help it starting, who knows if it worked or not.

[Tony Nitrous]

My K7 has been in storage for 7 1/2 years.
Fresh 98 premium, new battery and off she goes. Little erattic on tickover for short time then running sweet.
Off for a blue slip next.

Do you always use 98 ron ?
I've found mine runs fine on 95 ron 😳

I agree. Lots of folk smarter than me say use 95.

Out here a lot of servo's I use don't sell it. Nearest town is 91, 98 or diesel.

Anything I've ever had dyno'd, flashed, remapped etc has always been mapped for 98, bikes like the H2 and Busa don't recommend 91.

I wouldn't be suprised if 95 was fine, it's just not always an option.

Nearest servo......



50k's East....



45k's South...

[Hooli]

Id wait the repair time Eric. Used one is as old as yours, no guarantees itll last. Just my thoughts. Doesnt PC5 or reflash still require a good ecu?

not sure mate, AFAIK a PC piggybacks on the ecu and sends its own signals to the injectors based on whatever fuel map is loaded, it doesn't use the ecu apart from (say) crank and cam, map and iat/iap sensors.

If my ecu is faulty,its only something in the fuelling tables, as engine will start and run,just not correctly in terms of fuel that is added. 

Going away this weekend, will tackle the local tuning shops next week, get some pricing etc.

Not quite.

A PC3 uses the original ECU fuelling signals & modifies them.
A PC map is a table of percentages, where it adds or subtracts a percentage of the duration of injector firing times to modify the fuelling. So a dodgy signal from the ECU would still cause issues with a PC3 fitted. I believe the PC5 is the same, but never touched one to confirm.

[Tony Nitrous]

Id wait the repair time Eric. Used one is as old as yours, no guarantees itll last. Just my thoughts. Doesnt PC5 or reflash still require a good ecu?

not sure mate, AFAIK a PC piggybacks on the ecu and sends its own signals to the injectors based on whatever fuel map is loaded, it doesn't use the ecu apart from (say) crank and cam, map and iat/iap sensors.

If my ecu is faulty,its only something in the fuelling tables, as engine will start and run,just not correctly in terms of fuel that is added. 

Going away this weekend, will tackle the local tuning shops next week, get some pricing etc.

Not quite.

A PC3 uses the original ECU fuelling signals & modifies them.
A PC map is a table of percentages, where it adds or subtracts a percentage of the duration of injector firing times to modify the fuelling. So a dodgy signal from the ECU would still cause issues with a PC3 fitted. I believe the PC5 is the same, but never touched one to confirm.

Agreed. All a PC3/5 does is fool the factory ECU on basic fuelling. They have nothing like the ability to run on their own. None of them can do anything like ignition timing, rev limiters etc that the ECU controls. Without a good ECU a PC3/5 can't correct anything. 

[Eric GSX1400K3]

Thanks Gents.

[SpongeBob]

Not today but a few weeks ago, taking the opportunity of changing the clutch slave cylinder (as the OEM one couldn't be serviced once more, the piston was pitted/worn out), I (finally!) moved the clutch switch down there, using a quite reliable "hydro-switch", clearing up space at master cylinder -- Brembo clutch MC doesn't feature an embedded clutch switch.
Much better location for this switch, I guess.

[lurch]

Not today but a few weeks ago, taking the opportunity of changing the clutch slave cylinder (as the OEM one couldn't be serviced once more, the piston was pitted/worn out), I (finally!) moved the clutch switch down there, using a quite reliable "hydro-switch", clearing up space at master cylinder -- Brembo clutch MC doesn't feature an embedded clutch switch.
Much better location for this switch, I guess.

Did you switch to a Brembo radial clutch master? I'm using a 17RCS. I came across this Plot CSK001 clutch switch when I fitted it, never gave a hydraulic switch a thought but it looks like another acceptable solution.

https://japan.webike.net/products/26022924.html?srsltid=AfmBOops01uNIhab5W2DzSh29OvaM245TntMT7fVRFdltyJ3sdDxcehL

[Hooli]

Now & then I've wondered about looking at a wiring diagram & linking the clutch switch to the starter button. It should be possible, I've just never checked exactly how.

[Will14]

Refitted the standard end cans yesterday afternoon, very quiet but just suit the bike so much better. Will probably swap back to the Beowulf's again when I get board with the lack of noise, but only a 15 minute job

I have a standard set of cans with the guts removed but they mess the fuelling up to much and are a bit to loud & will only attract the local plod

[SpongeBob]

Did you switch to a Brembo radial clutch master? I'm using a 17RCS. I came across this Plot CSK001 clutch switch when I fitted it, never gave a hydraulic switch a thought but it looks like another acceptable solution.

Yes, but I use a 19RCS, though.
The hydraulic switch has the advantage of being fully ingress safe (and smaller). It is also quite reliable and maintenance free.

[SpongeBob]

Now & then I've wondered about looking at a wiring diagram & linking the clutch switch to the starter button. It should be possible, I've just never checked exactly how.

Could be a good idea, the problem is that the clutch switch grounds one end of the starter relay's coil (as well as a dedicated pin on the ECU), and the starter button 'feeds' +12V to the other end of the said starter relay coil... so the button needs the switch to be 'on' in order to be useful...

[Hooli]

Now & then I've wondered about looking at a wiring diagram & linking the clutch switch to the starter button. It should be possible, I've just never checked exactly how.

Could be a good idea, the problem is that the clutch switch grounds one end of the starter relay's coil (as well as a dedicated pin on the ECU), and the starter button 'feeds' +12V to the other end of the said starter relay coil... so the button needs the switch to be 'on' in order to be useful...

You've looked closer than me then, I've never had big issues with it so didn't see the point in investigating. I tend to park bikes in gear too, so it's not affecting how I'd normally start them.

[Irish in Oz]

A trip to Services NSW, new plates, new licence, registration, greenslip, insurance for the 1400.
I havn't tallied up the total cost. But I'm back on the road.

[KiwiCol]

You'll have to update your location Irish, since you're back on the sunburnt island.

[Irish in Oz]

You'll have to update your location Irish, since you're back on the sunburnt island.

Update done Col.
Only 35 degrees C today.