Bodis or Yoshi full exhaust system

Started by Markys, Friday, 16 October 2020, 06:27 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Markys

Hi guys,

I want to improve my gsx K5 (upgraded version with exhaust system 4-to-1). I have now Yoshimura dual oval with serial headers + air filter from Pipercross + PCIII USB. Tuned altogether on dyno. I have installed the quick throttle by means of installing of aluminium ring into the OEM throttle grip in order to increase the reel radius. Highly recommended easy and cheap upgrade with perfect result  :)

I want to upgrade exhaust system now.
Akrapovic full system– race line – out of sell. I was not able to find new available piece on market.

Yoshimura full system titanium cyclone – it was my favourite choice for me. I found some distributors on ebay from UK.
Is this model available for K5 and higher years?

Bodis full system – new type for me (I found it on internet)
Link: https://bodis-exhaust.com/artikel.php?model=48
The presented graph shows very nice result and peak in comparison with Yoshi one (see website). The price for European market is quite friendly.

Did somebody installed the Bodis exhaust system or any experience? The system especially headers is made fully from stainless steel instead of yoshimura titan headers. I read on forums that Akra or Yoshi are the only right ways.
So I would be sure before I spent quite a bit of money that Bodis system is really comparable alternative to Yoshi system which is still my preference.

Thank very much for sharing of your experience.



T 24


Markys

 :)
I want to improve just the power and acceleration above 5.000 rpm not to built rocket on the two wheels  :grin:

Hooli

I've never heard of Boshi.

I know over the years on here the most power comes from Yoshi, followed by Akra. The Yoshi makes oil changes a main though as it blocks access to the oil filter.

TBH, having ridden standard 14s back to back with mine (Akra, PCIII & custom map) it's not a huge obvious difference as they have so much torque normally.

To get more top end you'd be better off fitting Yoshi cams & then getting it dynoed. But obviously with the exhaust you want on it already.

Markys

#4
My goal is to improve a little bit the power above 5.000 rpm and shift the power peak let say to the 7.000 rpm. It means to prolong the progressive acceleration of the bike for some hundreds or thousands rpm higher.

I have the dyno chart for my existing stage (just Yoshi dual oval muffler+PCIII) and there is totally flat power curve between 5.000 and 7.000 rpm. Above 7.000 rpm the power curve drops rapidly down. My feeling copies my real dyno chart. I am now on 102 HP on rear wheel and about 129 Nm on rear wheel. 100 HP is round 5.000 rpm.

I have seen on the dynos on Yoshimura websites and now on Bodis pages (Germany's Bodis is alo new alternative for me) that this area between 5k and 7k could be improved by aftermarket exhaust full systems since larger inner diameter of the exhaust pipes. The dyno graphs shows the modification of the power curve (at 5.000 rpm still steeply continues above) as I would.


seth

Above 5000rpm in top and you'll be needing better suspension or at least upgrading what you have .
Good luck I'll follow your progress . :cheers:
only a slightly modified gsx1400
oh and a standard one too

Sethbot Postwhore

Hooli

If it's of any help deciding, this was my dyno with Akrapovic, PCIII & custom map. The torque peaks just under 6k.

That was 101k miles ago now, I sometimes wonder if it's still got all those horses, but not enough to pay to find out as it feels like they are all still there.

Markys

My dyno. As I wrote totally flat above 5.5000 rpm. I hope that open exhaust system will make the top more "peaked".

Roo

GSX1400 160HP PLUS
Overbored to 1620cc using special custom built forged pistons, Yoshimura 4:1 full exhaust system and LA cast iron sleeves, Yoshimura Cams, PTR flowed and fully ported cylinder head, Dynojet power commander, or Woolich Racing ECU reflash and Dyno Tune, K&N or BMC hi flow air filters, PTR modified air box, PTR modified throttle bodies including all machinework to cylinders and crankcases, Dyno tune custom remap.

Total ride in and ride out from $11,500.00

Here ya go Tainton gsx1400, 160 +   HP  ,   that'll do it !!!!!

SA14

Quote from: Roo on Saturday, 17 October  2020, 01:26 PM
GSX1400 160HP PLUS
Overbored to 1620cc using special custom built forged pistons, Yoshimura 4:1 full exhaust system and LA cast iron sleeves, Yoshimura Cams, PTR flowed and fully ported cylinder head, Dynojet power commander, or Woolich Racing ECU reflash and Dyno Tune, K&N or BMC hi flow air filters, PTR modified air box, PTR modified throttle bodies including all machinework to cylinders and crankcases, Dyno tune custom remap.

Total ride in and ride out from $11,500.00

Here ya go Tainton gsx1400, 160 +   HP  ,   that'll do it !!!!!

I'd say so. Can't think of spending that sort of money on any other type of bike but a 14 deserves some special treatment for sure. Obviously a keeper.

Markys

I would recommed the modification below to anybody. The reaction of the bike on the twist of the throttle is amazing.  Bike sprints ahead without any delay. It paids especially for GSX when the bike needs turn more than half throttle if you want to speed up quickly.
You need just short piece of aluminimum pipe with correct diameter. The thorttle cables do not need to be exchanged.

Donatello

I'm after an yoshimura 4-2-1 system with handbend titanium headers (not to be confused with the 4-1 system!!)



It's not being made anymore but I really love the handbend look vs the machine bent titanium one. Also the part where it goes from 2 in 1 pipe just behind the footpeg looks so cool and really makes the bike look racy.

seth

@Markys I've seen a few different ways of doing this .
Yours is very neat indeed.
Could you put up sizes so others can follow.
Cheers
only a slightly modified gsx1400
oh and a standard one too

Sethbot Postwhore

Markys

Raw material of the manufactured ring which I used was standard aluminium tube of dimensions:
Output diameter of tube: 45 mm
Inner diameter of tube:  39 mm
-- Thickness of the wall 3 mm
Width of the ring same as width of accelerator pulley (as on previous picture). Necessary to keep this width. Total tolerance of 1 mm plus is acceptable.

This Outer diameter of 45 mm is maximal since I had to rasp little bit the small protrusion inside the accelerator aluminium body for 1 mm in order to achieve smooth movement of whole assembly. But you know – bigger outer diameter = quicker reaction of the throttle. :grin:

The outer diameter of accelerator pulley is 40 mm. So the inner diameter of the tube should be 40 mm. Since the ring has to be cut for assembly onto the pulley it is not difficult to insert such cut ring of diameter 39 mm onto the 40 mm pulley. The ring is better fixed on its place in this case.

grog

Thanks Mate. Much cheaper than getting R1 throttle for same result. You dont find it too abrupt, doesnt make it too touchy.

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk