Bodis or Yoshi full exhaust system

[Markys]

So full race exhaust system from Bodis delivered to my garage.
Manufacturing seems professional and pieces fit together very precisely.
The diameter of inlet manifolds tubes is round 36 mm in comparison with 26 mm of OEM Suzuki manifolds.
The diameter of outlet centre tube in position of connection to muffler/silencer is about 60 mm in comparison with 35 mm of OEM Suzuki centre exhaust pipe. I know now that OEM exhaust system especially manifolds are the stopper of the power and culprit of the flat shape of the power curve in middle rpms.
Bodis set contains the DB killer too.
Changing of oil filter will be possible without exhaust manifolds dismantling and centre stand could stay on its place since the pipes copy the OEM shape.
Low bracket of exhaust centre tube under the engine block uses the same junction point as serial manifolds and bracket has its deformation zone so you can bent it as you need for smooth connection.
I will see the reliability and durability of the product next season.

I made short test ride. The difference especially above 5.000 rpm is really noticeable. The bike accelerates up above 6.000 rpm now rapidly as I wanted. I feel much more power.

I had precise setting for my config of PCIII + Air filter Pipercross + OEM manifold + Yoshi dual oval silencer.
Do you have your own experience if re-mapping of my PCIII is necessary now?

[Athelstanexxx]

Delkievic is worth to be considered, also

https://delkevic.co.uk/s/Suzuki/GSX1400%20/2002

[SA14]

Delkievic is worth to be considered, also

https://delkevic.co.uk/s/Suzuki/GSX1400%20/2002

I wonder what they have against the 2006,7,8 models?

[grog]

Bodis looks good, $500 cheaper than Yoshi. Still adds up over 3g Aust, PC, and Dyno.

[Hooli]

Delkievic is worth to be considered, also

https://delkevic.co.uk/s/Suzuki/GSX1400%20/2002

I wonder what they have against the 2006,7,8 models?

They probably released it in 2005, it'll fit though.

[SA14]

They probably released it in 2005, it'll fit though.

That's a relief because after feeling the extra low end punch on @Throttle 's full Akropovic system I've got my search lights on. I noticed it in first gear on a normal take off. Didn't even give it much throttle. I was surprised because I (mistakenly) thought that these exhaust systems only added mid and top end power. Not so.

[Hooli]

TBH that's probably the custom map as much as anything. I noticed a similar difference on mine when it went from Akra system & downloaded PC3 map to Akra system with a custom dyno map.

[SA14]

I just ran a quick fact check and can confirm it's pure exhaust.

"STD Fueling and full Akrapovic pipe".

I felt a noticeable difference and I'd just come off riding mine so it was a fresh comparison and it sounded super chunky and full of growl. I'm a fan.

[KoZi]

@Markys

Go to dyno now.
You shoud also remap iginition and fuelling - if you want perfect way
You will have more power - this is obvious but also obvious is this that you will have less torque in low range of rpms

Upgrade suspension and brakes - this is very important thing, for me more important than have a more power in our GSX 

@Donatello
If oy want something like yoshi hand bend - there are few companies in Japan still doing exhaust like that. But price is verrrrrry high.

[Markys]

Hope I will arrange my trip to dyno during the next two weeks.
I went through the PCIII maps available on Dynojet pages. I found that the saved presented maps are totally different. Similar settings as open silencer and OEM manifolds or full race systems and different PCIII maps. It is strange and seems that optimal settings could differ for particular bikes. Some maps have at the same area negative value some positive value.

Regarding shocks - it is true that it is weak point. I feel that the steering and damping is nervous.
Do you have any recomendation for shocks improvement? I have installed progressive front spring inside and had increased the front tube oil level in order to achieve right dynamic sag on the front because I was not able to adjust lower dynamic sag that 60mm before. The sag is now correctly adjusted to about 45 mm but the result is bouncy front wheel. My tip was sterring damper but maybe it is wrong way.


 

[steve porter]

just out of curiosity, has anyone done a dyno overlay of before and after full system compared to stock on the same Dyno ?

[Hooli]

I can do you a before & after custom dyno map on an Akra system. No other changes except the map & about 40k mileage as the rollers broke when it was tuned & took me ages to go back for the power run to find out the figures.

[Hooli]

Hope I will arrange my trip to dyno during the next two weeks.
I went through the PCIII maps available on Dynojet pages. I found that the saved presented maps are totally different. Similar settings as open silencer and OEM manifolds or full race systems and different PCIII maps. It is strange and seems that optimal settings could differ for particular bikes. Some maps have at the same area negative value some positive value.

Regarding shocks - it is true that it is weak point. I feel that the steering and damping is nervous.
Do you have any recomendation for shocks improvement? I have installed progressive front spring inside and had increased the front tube oil level in order to achieve right dynamic sag on the front because I was not able to adjust lower dynamic sag that 60mm before. The sag is now correctly adjusted to about 45 mm but the result is bouncy front wheel. My tip was sterring damper but maybe it is wrong way.

Check the years of the maps you're looking at too. K2-K4 run rich as standard, K5 onwards go lean.

As for the steering damper, I'd check the steering bearings even if they feel ok as the bottom one often rusts. Then fork oil, I can't say mine has ever felt like it's needed a damper when things are working right.

[KoZi]

Hope I will arrange my trip to dyno during the next two weeks.
I went through the PCIII maps available on Dynojet pages. I found that the saved presented maps are totally different. Similar settings as open silencer and OEM manifolds or full race systems and different PCIII maps. It is strange and seems that optimal settings could differ for particular bikes. Some maps have at the same area negative value some positive value.

Regarding shocks - it is true that it is weak point. I feel that the steering and damping is nervous.
Do you have any recomendation for shocks improvement? I have installed progressive front spring inside and had increased the front tube oil level in order to achieve right dynamic sag on the front because I was not able to adjust lower dynamic sag that 60mm before. The sag is now correctly adjusted to about 45 mm but the result is bouncy front wheel. My tip was sterring damper but maybe it is wrong way.


 

45mm of SAG front and rear is the highest option for street use - we are talking about rider sag.
Static SAG on front should be 15-25 mm. Rear 5-15 (ofcourse it depends of your skills and style of riding)
If you are riding hard - this sag (45mm) could be too soft for you. It is comfortable and good for easy touring ride.

Rear shocks - you have a few options - OHLINS, MUPO, NITRON, HYPERPRO, MAXTON, WILBERS and SHOWA ADVANTAGE - top products. If you have less money YSS is also good option 
Front suspension - if you have progressive springs put good oil for you and look also for oil level. If you will find optimal solution the steering damper isn't necessary.

[V_i_c_i]

I have a slightly different opinion on the steering damper. On my bike I have rebuilded original rear shocks and wilber progresive springs in front shocks. I don't have a jack up kit on it or lowered front shocks and so on....
I dare say that the shock absorbers work perfectly, BUT.
But at very high speeds (over 200km/h) on a worse surface is the bike slightly nervous. With a steering dumper is bike still smooth. Unfortunately, I still don't have the damper finally solved. So far, I'm not happy with the rigidity of the attachment (side mounting).

BR Vici