GSX1400 Bolt Sizes

[bladey]

Lads, I beg of you. lol... Can any of you fine gents tell me if you know the size and thread pitch of the rotor main bolt? It's not in the list above...sigh

Long story short.. I've knackered the 1st few threads inside the crankshaft end and need to re-tap it. Current bolt won't start to catch on turning and is beginning to bugger threads on that too, so don't want to force it... I think it's an M13 bolt, but want to know the thread size so I can get correct tap...fkin nightmare lol

...And before you ask, it all happened when trying to remove the flywheel and using the wrong tip on removal bolt! ffs

Thanks in advance lads.

EDIT: Just to clarify... Don't exactly know whats happened, but got the gist from forum main page posts.. I was a member from the older original forum, which this has now become I believe, had to re-register.. but all my old posts are gone :( .. I remember Barmy and a few others, but i've been away for about 5/6 years, (long story), and still have my GSX1400/K5 which was damaged in an accident and also myself... fully recovered now and want to get my baby back on the road, lots to fix and summers are too feckin short! So all help appreciated!

Bladey

[gsxbarmy]

Can't help with the pitch bladey, but the parts microfiche does at least give the bolt size.

[bladey]

Your a Gent as always Barmy... thanx! Soooo it's an M12. I'll have to order a Pitch/thread gauge as I duno what's happened to my last one in the last 5 years.

Actually since I wrote my last post.. I've noticed the 1.5cm of the bolt shank isn't threaded, which means the thread starts 1.5cm into the Crankshaft... Which means i've mushroomed the entry a bit... So a Dremel sander should be able to grind and clean up the face.

Now to get that feckin stubborn arse flywheel off!!

Cheers again Barmy, good to know some things/members never change!

Bladey!

[gsxbarmy]

Bladey - I know a few who had issue with the stator bolt coming loose on later models who found that tightening the bolt up didn't always work, even when loctite'd in with blue loctite - but when a new bolt was fitted all was good. I have a suspicion that due to the high torque of the bolt that it may be a single use as it slightly stretches (so a thread gauge may not give you the correct answer on a used bolt).

I would suggest ordering a new bolt from Mr Suzuki, as it may save you grief in the longer term - and give you a bolt with the correct pitch to measure.

[bladey]

Good point Barmy! Although the pitch wouldn't have changed so much that I can't measure, but tolerances maybe out if first torqued up to fit by Suzuki which done at factory..

For £7 a bolt, I guess it's a no brainer..as a new gasket is £15 IF I had to re-open and tighten up the bloody bolt again! So i'll just order 1.

Beginning to remember why I loved this site so much!

Everyone else, stay safe lads/laddetes.. It's rough out there  . Hopefully we'll crack this virus thing!

Weathers good, and so no better time to spend on bike work!! 

[bladey]

Just to let you lads know that only a small part of the rotor bolt is used to hold and engages into the crankshaft thread. So the tolerances on the unused threads should be fine.

So basically all the force is only engaged by about 1.5cm of the shank, so no wonder people are having issues re-using the same bolt as this must throw the tolerances out by at least 15-20%

Good call Barmy

[gsxbarmy]

Is that all? Thanks for that feedback @bladey useful to know (but what a waste of thread!)

[bladey]

I am back...(sigh), been 3 years and still haven't managed to remove the flywheel.. . It's the most stubborn ass effing flywheel i've come across!!

I've bent TWO pullers trying to remove her!... Now going for a pro puller that looks the business! My next problem is my flywheel main bolt is knackered and I can't order a new one coz no-one has one in stock!

Does anyone here still have their old flywheel bolt? as they would've been replaced when any work of removing was carried out. Leme know please, be happy to pay u for it!

Only other option would be to take it down to machine shop to re-align first few threads.

Thanks in advance lads
Blades

[grog]

09103-14034-000.If thats the bolt you need in stock at Megazip.Just over $100.

[bladey]

Cheers Grog, I'm crazy...but just not that crazy lol...$100 for a single bolt! I'd rather pay to have my one have it's threads straightened! Thanks tho.

[grog]

Bladey, try motorcyclespareparts.eu. $1.14, one extreme to the other.

[bladey]

U effing Rock Grog mate.... Thank u VERY much.... Let's hope they have it in stock!

[grog]

If not, Web Bike Japan do for maybe $20.

[BanditsHigh]

What kind of pullers are you trying to use, the two/three leg type .. if so then that's the wrong type!

As far as I remember it's a big bolt (effectively) which you screw in, this is engaged in the rotor and bears against the end of the crankshaft ... turn the bolt and it'll eventually pop the rotor off.

Yep, memory serves me well, part numbers ...
Rotor remover 09930-30720
Rotor holder  09930-44530

I'm also sure that tapping on the head of the bolt, after tightening, can help shock the rotor free.

All the best ... Barry

P.S. I'm slow at getting around to things  ... but you're starting to catch up 

[bladey]

What kind of pullers are you trying to use, the two/three leg type .. if so then that's the wrong type!

As far as I remember it's a big bolt (effectively) which you screw in, this is engaged in the rotor and bears against the end of the crankshaft ... turn the bolt and it'll eventually pop the rotor off.

Yep, memory serves me well, part numbers ...
Rotor remover 09930-30720
Rotor holder  09930-44530

I'm also sure that tapping on the head of the bolt, after tightening, can help shock the rotor free.

All the best ... Barry

P.S. I'm slow at getting around to things  ... but you're starting to catch up 

Hi Bandit, originally I did everything by the book and ordered the correct bolt, (as u stated), I used an impact drill, (pro one), nut no joy... Then I proceeded to hand tighten until couldn't physically tighten any more... At this point I should have used a mallet to pop the bugger off... but I didn't. I tightened more using a breaker bar and the threads on the flywheel just stripped off and bolt just spun.

This is my current predicament and hence why I'm having to resort to a puller. SO, I used a two legged puller which I screwed into the bolt holes inside the flywheel after removing the hex bolts that hold the clutch plate to flywheel. tightened that up pretty tight then used the hammer on the bolt end of puller which did nowt... in fact did more damage, the bolt tip slightly rounded the edges of bolt inlet on crankshaft end...So that's another problem to contend with AFTER, I remove the fecking flywheel.

The other option I have is to re-thread the flywheel and use a bigger bolt.. It's a long story and still ongoing.