Bike Smoking when coming off revs, Rider behind said smells very rich after new

Started by Xdiavel, Monday, 08 January 2024, 08:31 PM

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Dwain Dibley

IMHO, complete the running in process before you give in, at least you will get some respite from things and enjoy some riding.   :onya:

D.D.
To Infirmity and Beyond.. :-)

Xdiavel

Hi all,

I need to run something past you all again.

Because I have changed all the valve stem oil seals and now the rings, My attention has now started to slide back towards fuelling mainly due to this being on all 4 cylinders.

So over the weekend I bought a cheapo air fuel gauge and rigged it up and stuck the O2 sensor in one of the pipes. Strangely it is showing me it is running very lean at idle. It runs rich on cold start which I would expect to see at around 11.2 ish but when it comes off cold start the gauge drops right down to 18.2 ish and showing very lean. (This is in cold weather 5 degrees)

Now when it passes around 2k rpm (I assume when it comes off the TPS system) It goes super rich holding RPM at approx 2.5k rpm at around 11.8 and when it got upto 80 degrees normally when it starts smoking the fuel/air ratio was off the gauge at 10.0

I understand optimally engines should sit around 13.1 etc.

Can I ask your thoughts

EDIT* Quick note I ran a compression test also and all cylinders were around 180psi well 3 at 180 and 1 at 185psi so looks likt the rings have bed in.

Hooli

Hmmm, the main things that control the fuelling is the oil temp sensor (behind the barrels) and to a lesser extent the MAP sensor (between frame tubes at the top) when on low throttle/revs so I'd expect it to be active just holding the revs up in neutral like that. Then the TPS at higher throttle openings as the MAP maxes out.
To a lesser extent the external air pressure sensor (identical to the MAP but on the side of the airbox) and the external air temp sensor (also on the side of the airbox) come into play.

I'm assuming your PAIRs system is removed for these readings to mean anything.

I can't recall now, but fuel pressure is ok? as I used to get black smoke on the power when my high pressure filter was blocked. Because the low pressure was causing a poor spray pattern from the injectors. Mind you it stopped of the throttle unlike yours.


Xdiavel

Quote from: Hooli on Monday, 17 November  2025, 10:25 PMHmmm, the main things that control the fuelling is the oil temp sensor (behind the barrels) and to a lesser extent the MAP sensor (between frame tubes at the top) when on low throttle/revs so I'd expect it to be active just holding the revs up in neutral like that. Then the TPS at higher throttle openings as the MAP maxes out.
To a lesser extent the external air pressure sensor (identical to the MAP but on the side of the airbox) and the external air temp sensor (also on the side of the airbox) come into play.

I'm assuming your PAIRs system is removed for these readings to mean anything.

I can't recall now, but fuel pressure is ok? as I used to get black smoke on the power when my high pressure filter was blocked. Because the low pressure was causing a poor spray pattern from the injectors. Mind you it stopped of the throttle unlike yours.



Yes I think the fuel pressure is fine as never had any issues on full throttle etc. Yes I did block the pairs the weekend albeit just blocked the hole on the airbox where the pipe joins onto, Nothing more so it cannot suck air out the airbox now.

I tested the oil sensor earlier in this thread and think that read ok from memory. The only sensor I have never checked is the external air temp sensor as don't have the prongs for the reader to a measurement.

Xdiavel

MMMM

Interestingly I am now getting zero readings from the sensor. I had to fiddle a fair bit with the multimeter to get one before but seemed to be in range. I wonder if this has an intermittant fault :confused1:  :confused1:

But no FI light on the dash. It should be quite easy to get a reading imo as the silver connection tabs are quite visable and can get the multimeter prongs to touch them easily. I even cut some wires and stuck them in the plug and couldn't get anything off those either.

Going to name this bike Christine as I am sure it's possessed  :lol:

Hooli

I know the oil temp sensor had to be disconnected on my K2 to get a FI light on, even when it was massively out of range. Oddly enough, despite what the manual says the bike wouldn't run without the sensor plugged in.

Eric GSX1400K3

Bit of a pain to removevthe oil temp sensor, hard to get the allen key into the tight spot behind the cylinders.  Once out, follow the test in the manual by putting it in water and heating it up, you can then watch the resistance change as it heats up.  If no change, the sensor is buggered.

A cheat way is to use a propane flame near but not touching the sensor, it will pick up the radiated heat and also change resistance.

Also check your fuel pump pressure regulator, this can cause all sorts of fuelling issues....
I try to take one day at a time, however sometimes several days catch up with me at once.

grog

Xdiavel, maybe the clues were staring at us all along. Very rich at 80 degrees due to faulty oil temp sensor??I was also thinking clutch switch but dont think it alters fuel after 3k revs.Hows yours now Eric BTW?

Xdiavel

Quote from: grog on Tuesday, 18 November  2025, 04:05 PMXdiavel, maybe the clues were staring at us all along. Very rich at 80 degrees due to faulty oil temp sensor??I was also thinking clutch switch but dont think it alters fuel after 3k revs.Hows yours now Eric BTW?

Honestly I think I am just clutching at straws at this point, Turns out my meter was playing up and giving me false/no readings and got my hopes up  :cry2:
I read a thread the other night about somebody with similar issues but with a car.
He eventually found it to be the spark plugs of all things being the colder type. He changed them out and no more wet pistons.

That led me off now thinking fuelling and got my hopes up again of a cure, but the sensor does look to be fine and reading ok.
I also checked the IAT and that looks to be working fine too.

Can the TPS/STPS mess with fuelling if not set correctly or faulty. I mean it runs perfect and cold start works bang on the money so think they're fine.

Again the fuel ratio meter can be a red herring for what I am reading as it is only hanging out the tail pipe as the holes are stupidly small. But this can suck air pulses back and show a lean mixture and maybe the other side of things that when the bike is revved it has to pass all through the baffles etc so could possibly give another false reading. Who knows.

I want to just walk away from it but I cant let it beat me  :grin:

Hooli

Quote from: Xdiavel on Tuesday, 18 November  2025, 07:06 PMCan the TPS/STPS mess with fuelling if not set correctly or faulty. I mean it runs perfect and cold start works bang on the money so think they're fine.


Yes, I've had a few TPS fail at a particular throttle range & screw up the fueling at that point. I could reproduce rough running by using the right amount of throttle every time though, so it's easy enough to check that way.

Eric GSX1400K3

Quote from: grog on Tuesday, 18 November  2025, 04:05 PMHows yours now Eric BTW?

Aarrrgh, still carrying on.  Put it all back together and gave it a wash and polish, scrubbed up ok actually, it was in need of it. The Bavarian Mistress got a tub too.  Then ran the 1402, still pops and seems to get a pulse back through the inlet valves, sounds mostly from #1 and #2, that is the LH of the bike.

Then I got thinking about fueling as well, so yesterday I pulled the efi pump out again and stripped it down yet again. Rust flakes in the teabag, plus some in the external hp filter (doing its job!), flushed out the oem hp filter again (still black crud coming out) and put it all back together. Fitted my original pressure regulator in case the quantum one was full of crud (which I found out after it wadnt), fired it up, still the same.  Will swap back to original injectors just to check again, but after that it will be looking at valves and possibly head gasket?  Its odd, because compression is great (within spec when cold) and valve clearances are also in spec.  May check TPS again, but it was reading correct last time (its a new genuine one), and may try to check the TB balance first. 
I try to take one day at a time, however sometimes several days catch up with me at once.

Pommeroy

There's always room in the world for a bit more tolerance and kindness.

Rob

grog

Said before, dont think mechanical. Waste of time head off etc. Management problem.Popping back thru air intake is usually lean mixture, you have checked pressure?? Try a shot of carby cleaner into air box as you open throttle, any change? Doesnt help the cause but puts you on a track, is it just lean causing it?

Hooli

I recall mine had some horrid looking cracks in the rubber intake manifolds, they never leaked but it wouldn't amaze me if they were starting to split on some bikes now they're getting old.

grog

Again, a spray around those rubbers , carb cleaner. Youll notice any change if leaking.

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