Bike Smoking when coming off revs, Rider behind said smells very rich after new

[Xdiavel]

Well,

My new issue has kept my mind off the oil problem.

When troubleshooting the fuel issue I thought it may have had and throttle ballancing I messed up and turned the ballancing screw for the Secondary throttle valves in and since then the bike keeps tripping an Fi light when very cold. Fasy idle reves up to 2k rpm runs like that for 5 seconds then it just drops fast to idle and trips a code.

I have played with that screw and the fast idle screw to no evail. If I loosen that ballancing screw all the way out it sometimes runs fast idle fine but the STPS looses it's range of volts and ohms.

If I do fiddle to get it sort of running without tripping the fast idle is all over the place ie it will run for approx 30 then drop to idle so I think oh that's good then it has a change of mind and starts revving back up on the fast idle to 1500rpm or so like it got it wrong.

Cold start worked perfect before I messed this up.

I did the proceedure in the manual and got both sensors in range etc but instantly tripped out. It logs a c28 stva code but read it can also be due to adjustments being out.

If I put both TPS & STPS back to where they originally was and adjust the ballancer screw between TB's 3 & 4 ( Sensor takes the reading off 4 )so the STPS comes into range ie 0.8v it just trips out after 5 secs

Am I missing something here? Worked fine before that screw was turned and now cannot get it right for love nor money. I really do not want to take the throttle bodies off again but looks like I may have to now to get the secondary valves alligned. If they're just a tiny bit out, Could it cause this?

[KiwiCol]

I'm lost.  I do know though, that there is a screw in that area the factory says not to touch, (so why put a screw there?)   bound to be that one you've adjusted.

Hooli or Eric would be my go to on this one.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

Hmmm, It could be the little magnet inside the STVA unit, i remember Seth posting about this. You can get to it and use superglue to glue the magnet bits back together and in the right spot on the shaft.  Fiddling with that screw just changes the fast idle, however if you've gone too far, could have damaged the magnet or its location on the shaft?

I've found that with TPS the important setting is the closed throttle at 1100 Ohm, whilst for the STPS, it's the open throttle at 3800 Ohm.

Have a search on here fir Seth's post and excellent photos of his stva magnet fix.

[Will14]

Just a thought, after you have made the adjustments have you disconnected the battery? I think you are supposed to for 20-30 mins to allow residual current drain, then after reconnecting the battery, switch on ignition with kill switch in the run position & open/close the throttle twice before starting it resets the ECU values. It's a while since I read the book but sure that was the procedure

[Eric GSX1400K3]

Sorry, I did write that whilst waiting for my flight to Site, it was a bit early, so perhaps it didn't make sense.  The erratic stva behavior can be from the magnet being broken.  All the fast idle screw does is provide the reference point for the STVA.  But, if the signal is distorted, it wont work properly.  A quick way to check if the stva is working is with the air filter removed, ignition on but kill switch off, look inside the airbox, then press the red kill switch down, the fuel pump should prime and the secondary throttle move through their range of motion, being actuated by the stva AFAIK.  If they don't move, or not fully, then best bet is the stva magnet being buggered.  You can also hear it, but sometimes gets drowned out by the fuel pump priming.  Hope my ramblings make sense now.

[Xdiavel]

Sorry, I did write that whilst waiting for my flight to Site, it was a bit early, so perhaps it didn't make sense.  The erratic stva behavior can be from the magnet being broken.  All the fast idle screw does is provide the reference point for the STVA.  But, if the signal is distorted, it wont work properly.  A quick way to check if the stva is working is with the air filter removed, ignition on but kill switch off, look inside the airbox, then press the red kill switch down, the fuel pump should prime and the secondary throttle move through their range of motion, being actuated by the stva AFAIK.  If they don't move, or not fully, then best bet is the stva magnet being buggered.  You can also hear it, but sometimes gets drowned out by the fuel pump priming.  Hope my ramblings make sense now.

Makes perfect sense Eric, Thank you.

I am sure they're pretty much inline as I can feel them through the airbox. It does perform it's little dance on start where it quickly goes one way then back the other way and then lifts the primary TB's up slightly for cold start.

I have ran the engine up so it's hot as it's building up a lot of condensation in the exhaust with all the cold start testing on and off, But now that is even playing up.

It idles when hot then after approx 1-2 mins the secondary actuator randomly revs the bike to approx 1500rpm for a few seconds then it goes back down and runs ok then it may randomly do it again but the second time is a bit hit and miss.

I have set both STP & STPS up in their respective ranges and and turned the sensor wheels when they have been removed and the Volts/Ohms are smooth throughout the ranges.

[KiwiCol]

Sounds like something is opening and closing, causing the ecu to think it's cold, hence revs up, 'it' opens again & the ecu thinks it's now warm so idle goes back down.

Pretty sure the engine gets it's temp reading from the oil sensor.  It wouldn't be unknown for one of those to play up.  I wonder if it's that sensor or the wires to it maybe? 
Or could it be the oil thermostat opening & closing allowing the hot engine oil to flow into the oil cooler then closing off as soon as the cool oil from the cooler gets into the engine & cools the oil temp sensor.

I'm just trying to think what would cause a warm / hot engine to go back into warm up mode.  I wonder if it would keep doing it after the engine has been run for 5 minutes or ridden around a while?  That way all the oil would be hot & no much cooler oil flowing back in to the mix.

I'd have a look at that sensor & the wires for sure though.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

I had a C28 code for a long time. Only resolved it by putting new genuine TPS and STPS sensors in.  From Webike Japan, about half the price compared to the stealers but still not cheap.  These sensors tend to fail due to the little spring inside them becoming weak,then they don't track properly and send spurious voltage signals to the ecu. Hooli had similar.  I remember testing this with the sensor off the bike and hooked up to a multimeter, watching the ohms change steadily as you turn the small internal wheel (the bit that the throttle spindle usually turns) then suddenly the ohms drop off or go real high, then settle down again.

Since putting new sensors in, no more C28 codes, and fast idle works as it should when its cold

[GSXKING]

I've said it before and I'll say it again. Eric you have the patience of Jobe.
I've owned my 2001 GSX from new and had minor problems over 24 years. Servicing and replacing worn parts over its 178,000 + kilometres of travel.
If mine gave me only a few of the issues you've identified I'd have burnt it or made it a boat anchor long ago. SERIOUSLY 😳

[grog]

Agree Chris,Eric & Xdiavel patience plus. I once had a mower that stopped after 10 minutes. I reckon i replaced every part, last time it stopped, in the wagon and taken to the tip. That fixed it

[Xdiavel]

Hi All, Has anybody got a video of the secondary throttle in operation at all?

On the right hand side of the bike between throttle bodies 3 & 4 you will see the ballancer screw down low between them with the screw head facing up. You can watch this when you turn the ignition on.

Can you let me know if it feel completely free from open to closed and if it does a full smooth sweep please.

When I turn the ignition on it quickly shoots up to the closed possision then instantly drops down and struggles to push back the last 10% to wide open, Well not struggles just slow with resistance.

Also can you see them moving when revved at idle. Mine moves a few mm when reved but on GSXR vids I have seen they open smoothly a fair way at idle when revved up and work together with the primaries.

Chhers

[Eric GSX1400K3]

I know what you are talking about, will try to get video this weekend  for you. 

Mine cycles through smoothly, haven't watched it work with the primaries though.

[Xdiavel]

I know what you are talking about, will try to get video this weekend  for you. 

Mine cycles through smoothly, haven't watched it work with the primaries though.

Thanks Eric,

That would be much appriciated    I have just stuck my hand in the air box and butterflies do more of a violent flick than a smooth motion .
I would ecpect them to work like this tbh https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5saSSAIiuk

[Eric GSX1400K3]

What I have seen is the quick action, with then a little wiggle at the end of its cycle.  Will try to capture that.

[Xdiavel]

What I have seen is the quick action, with then a little wiggle at the end of its cycle.  Will try to capture that.

Hi Eric,

Thanks for checking for me, sounds the same as mine. I think my actuator is actually knackered. I checked the continuity across the plug and reads all over the place, the doc states between 4.8 and 7.2 ohms but mine reads 0.00 at full open and 0.00 at rest and 0.00 at full closed and the readings are all over the place in-between full and closed it jumps from 0.5 upto 16 and everything in-between, certainly not stable at 4.8-7.2 hence why I think it starts revving itself  . Just cannot understand what caused it.

As I only turned the ballance screw between 3&4! But then thats this bike all over