Hi all
Now this has been spoken of before but I just wanted to get the correct info.
I've had the bike 3 plus years, always starts fine runs fine, exhaust tips have always been very sooty, when I changed the plugs two were sooty and the other two ok although two seemed quote loose. Went out yesterday and got stuck in some shocking traffic jams, bike was lumpy under 2500 revs, always has been but I generally avoid traffic jams. Had a look up here and throttle cable was mentioned, took a look at mine and has no slack at all. Had a go at listening to the cold map change when increasing revs in 1st gear.....no increase in revs engine warm, could the oil temp switch be fubar hence lumpy running low revs and sooty tips.
Ps I'm not very good with a multimeter :smitten:
Thoughts please, cheers Paul
Lumpy ( as in on/ off) at low speed usually is the throttle position sensor
Sooty van be a very dirty air cleaner or a power commander going bad.
Hard to experience behind a keyboard vs what you experience on a bike but i would start with the basics if this was happening to my bike
Throttle cable play
Tps and stps
Synchronise the tbs
Check the fuel pump + filter and the fuel pressure regulator
Takes out a lot guessing
Hth
Quote from: Blubber on Sunday, 23 August 2026, 12:44 AMLumpy ( as in on/ off) at low speed usually is the throttle position sensor
Sooty van be a very dirty air cleaner or a power commander going bad.
Hard to experience behind a keyboard vs what you experience on a bike but i would start with the basics if this was happening to my bike
Throttle cable play
Tps and stps
Synchronise the tbs
Check the fuel pump + filter and the fuel pressure regulator
Takes out a lot guessing
Hth
Cheers for the thoughts, can confirm air cleaner is new as are plugs.
I'll get a friend who understands a multi meter on the case.
Cheers
Paul
Paul
Is it drinking fuel? Mine was down to about 28mpg when the oil temp sensor went.
If you do test it, it's a two wire connector under the RH side cover. White/black and black from memory. The figures are in the workshop manual, as I recall it's about 100KOhm at 0c and mine was around 1000KOhm. Can you tell I found the issue in winter?
Tea Bag!
Quote from: Globalrider on Sunday, 23 August 2026, 01:36 AMTea Bag!
It's certainly something to check although apart from seeming very rich and rough lower down it runs fine
Quote from: Hooli on Sunday, 23 August 2026, 01:30 AMIs it drinking fuel? Mine was down to about 28mpg when the oil temp sensor went.
If you do test it, it's a two wire connector under the RH side cover. White/black and black from memory. The figures are in the workshop manual, as I recall it's about 100KOhm at 0c and mine was around 1000KOhm. Can you tell I found the issue in winter?
Tbh I've never really checked the mpg but if you stand behind it it smells like a 1973 range rover V8, unsure if that's normal on a gsx, don't recall it on my carbed xjr1300. It definitely didn't do the rev increase in 1st. When cold starting the revs are higher, then it drops to around 1100 then finally ticksover at 900 so after reading through here I may increase to 1100 .
Pairs block of done and running Healtech tre.
Fowlers had a sensor at £220
Paul
I personally wouldn't be getting a new sensor until I could prove the original a dud. If she's running rich we need to find the reason, especially as it appears to be just 2 cyl?
The 'proper' idle revs are 1100 on a warmed up engine. Start up should go into fast idle, 2200 - 2500 sorta thing then ease back fairly quickly to 1100. This is temperature dependant though, so the colder it is where you are the longer it'll take to drop back to 1100. Some owners have found they prefer tick over at 1200, up to you.
Now to see if you're stuck on the start map, once the bike is at normal operating temp and it's normal tick over, pull the clutch in & drop it in to 1st, don't give any throttle input and gently begin releasing the clutch, watch the rpm dial and listen, it should slightly increase revs as the clutch is let out. Maybe 100 - 200 revs, but it's noticeable and should be there. If it does not do this, you're running on the start map continuously, which is richer than normal riding. This would account for rich smell. Have a crack n see if she's doing everything right.
Quote from: Phill P on Sunday, 23 August 2026, 02:58 AMQuote from: Hooli on Sunday, 23 August 2026, 01:30 AMIs it drinking fuel? Mine was down to about 28mpg when the oil temp sensor went.
If you do test it, it's a two wire connector under the RH side cover. White/black and black from memory. The figures are in the workshop manual, as I recall it's about 100KOhm at 0c and mine was around 1000KOhm. Can you tell I found the issue in winter?
Tbh I've never really checked the mpg but if you stand behind it it smells like a 1973 range rover V8, unsure if that's normal on a gsx, don't recall it on my carbed xjr1300. It definitely didn't do the rev increase in 1st. When cold starting the revs are higher, then it drops to around 1100 then finally ticksover at 900 so after reading through here I may increase to 1100 .
Pairs block of done and running Healtech tre.
Fowlers had a sensor at £220
Paul
Nah they shouldn't stink of fuel, so it does sound rich.
Those sensors are about £70 from webike japan, just stick the part number from Fowlers into the webike search bar. But like I said, they are easy to check with a multimeter. Oddly enough the engine thinking it's really cold doesn't affect the fast idle times, they still drop to normal at the usual rate.
Check that oil temp sensor. Idle speed up, mine would just cut out at 900.If no rev change with clutch movement, need a new clutch switch. A couple of places to start Mate.Good luck.
Cheers everyone, defo no increase in revs with clutch out in 1st with warm engine and does smell rich and never smells any less rich. But will check the sensor and if that's OK I will get the tank off for the teabag filter :notworthy:
In comparison the z1000sx you could literally inhale it without a problem, although too bloody quiet for my liking
Paul
Aye clutch switch is a good call too, I forgot that one as we'd gone off on oil temp sensors.
A quick check there is start the bike, unplug the clutch switch and ride. If it behaves better you've found the issue.
Quote from: grog on Sunday, 23 August 2026, 01:19 PMCheck that oil temp sensor. Idle speed up, mine would just cut out at 900.If no rev change with clutch movement, need a new clutch switch. A couple of places to start Mate.Good luck.
Ah, wasn't aware of the clutch switch doing that, cheers will give it a try
:cheers:
Paul
Quote from: Hooli on Sunday, 23 August 2026, 05:58 PMAye clutch switch is a good call too, I forgot that one as we'd gone off on oil temp sensors.
A quick check there is start the bike, unplug the clutch switch and ride. If it behaves better you've found the issue.
I'm going to Rykas next week so will be a good chance to try it out.
Paul
Another easy test of the oil temp sensor is to take it out, and re connect it to the plug. Connect the multimeter to the back of the plug (using the pointy probes) and with the setting on resistance, holding the sensor in your closed hand, you should see the ohms drop as the sensor warms up. If it doesn't then its faulty.
Also good tip re the clutch switch, but dont disconnect before starting, as its interlocked to the starter relay.
3 sensors to check: oil temp, clutch and throttle.
Webike japan is cheapest for oem Suzuki parts.
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Monday, 24 August 2026, 08:48 AMAnother easy test of the oil temp sensor is to take it out, and re connect it to the plug. Connect the multimeter to the back of the plug (using the pointy probes) and with the setting on resistance, holding the sensor in your closed hand, you should see the ohms drop as the sensor warms up. If it doesn't then its faulty.
Also good tip re the clutch switch, but dont disconnect before starting, as its interlocked to the starter relay.
3 sensors to check: oil temp, clutch and throttle.
Webike japan is cheapest for oem Suzuki parts.
I've looked at fowlers and webike, fowlers are out of stock £220 and webike seem have it so I have ordered it, getting a little concerned that they are unobtainable :shocked:
There's quite a lot on webike that dealers here can't get & always much cheaper too.
Quote from: Hooli on Tuesday, 25 August 2026, 03:31 AMThere's quite a lot on webike that dealers here can't get & always much cheaper too.
Much cheaper, even with import duty if I get stung for it, did try the clutch switch disconnected but didn't seem to make a difference. When you did yours did you get to the sensor OK or did you have to remove anything nearby.
P
Quote from: Phill P on Tuesday, 25 August 2026, 03:43 AMQuote from: Hooli on Tuesday, 25 August 2026, 03:31 AMThere's quite a lot on webike that dealers here can't get & always much cheaper too.
Much cheaper, even with import duty if I get stung for it, did try the clutch switch disconnected but didn't seem to make a difference. When you did yours did you get to the sensor OK or did you have to remove anything nearby.
P
From memory I had to remove the bottom of the Y-shaped oil pipe up the back of the barrels to get access to one allen bolt but that was all. Oh & the side panel to get to where it plugs in, but that's hardly difficult as I'm sure you're aware.
Quote from: Hooli on Tuesday, 25 August 2026, 04:09 AMQuote from: Phill P on Tuesday, 25 August 2026, 03:43 AMQuote from: Hooli on Tuesday, 25 August 2026, 03:31 AMThere's quite a lot on webike that dealers here can't get & always much cheaper too.
Much cheaper, even with import duty if I get stung for it, did try the clutch switch disconnected but didn't seem to make a difference. When you did yours did you get to the sensor OK or did you have to remove anything nearby.
P
From memory I had to remove the bottom of the Y-shaped oil pipe up the back of the barrels to get access to one allen bolt but that was all. Oh & the side panel to get to where it plugs in, but that's hardly difficult as I'm sure you're aware.
Took a look at the weekend and did see the Y shaped pipe, lol routing the wire is not an issue ;)
Temp sensor, yeah getting scarce. Is 13650-42F00 correct part number?£53 or $103 Oz. Might order as a spare.
Quote from: grog on Tuesday, 25 August 2026, 04:15 PMTemp sensor, yeah getting scarce. Is 13650-42F00 correct part number?£53 or $103 Oz. Might order as a spare.
Got a link as webike no stock
Says in stock🤷🏼
If that's webike Japan my email this morning says it not in stock :whatever:
Thank you for using Webike Japan.
We are sorry to tell you that the item you have ordered is out of
stock at this time and its next delivery date is unfixed.
We are truly sorry to that we can not accept any order of item(s)
of its delivery date is unfixed, therefore, we have cancelled your order.
** Products that are not available (unfixed delivery date) **
------------------------------------------------------------------
Item(1)
SUZUKI OEM Motorcycle parts Sensor, Oil Temperaure 13650-42F00-000
13650-42F00-000
Parts Number:1365042F00000
Bugger. I can't find anywhere, new or used. Sensor is used in lots of cars etc, FACET 33490, cheap, few bucks. Need thread size, either 12 or 14 mm. They have a wiring plug,could be cut off, attach wiring from original plug, only 2 wires.Bit of rooting around but at least a chance.Anyone know the thread size is first hurdle, Hooli ??
Quote from: grog on Tuesday, 25 August 2026, 05:06 PMBugger. I can't find anywhere, new or used. Sensor is used in lots of cars etc, FACET 33490, cheap, few bucks. Need thread size, either 12 or 14 mm. They have a wiring plug,could be cut off, attach wiring from original plug, only 2 wires.Bit of rooting around but at least a chance.Anyone know the thread size is first hurdle, Hooli ??
Doesn't appear to have a thread as it's held down by the cover
Yeah, you're right. Must be a way🤞
If its literally the same sensor then the thread could be filed off or put in a lathe, I'll remove mine next week and either put some sort of resister in it to fool the bike into thinking its warm or get the one you've shown to see how similar they are.
Seems a few failing, need to sort an answer. Looking forward to your input
Quote from: grog on Tuesday, 25 August 2026, 05:06 PMBugger. I can't find anywhere, new or used. Sensor is used in lots of cars etc, FACET 33490, cheap, few bucks. Need thread size, either 12 or 14 mm. They have a wiring plug,could be cut off, attach wiring from original plug, only 2 wires.Bit of rooting around but at least a chance.Anyone know the thread size is first hurdle, Hooli ??
Now why'd I know something random like that? :whistling:
Having checked the broken bits shelf....
These should help match something else up.
IMG_20260825_091547.jpg
IMG_20260825_091605.jpg
IMG_20260825_091635.jpg
IMG_20260825_091727.jpg
IMG_20260825_091712.jpg
Sizes (450 x 600).jpg
Cheers for that Hooli, all screen shots, now I'll start looking around :cheers:
Seems the sensor part available easily, just comes in many different costumes. We will sort it out,just a challenge for us. 😎
Using a resistor to fool the bike would be a good solution, issue is it needs to be a variable resistor with a temp vs ohms curve that matches the OEM sensor.
A threaded sensor that matches then filing or machining the thread off also works, as long as the o ring can be fitted to keep the oil on the right side.
From USA
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Tuesday, 25 August 2026, 08:02 PMUsing a resistor to fool the bike would be a good solution, issue is it needs to be a variable resistor with a temp vs ohms curve that matches the OEM sensor.
A threaded sensor that matches then filing or machining the thread off also works, as long as the o ring can be fitted to keep the oil on the right side.
Tbh a fixed resistor at running temp would work, but you'd probably have to let it warm up for a few mins from cold so it didn't stall easily.
I'd be surprised if the sensor isn't used elsewhere though, maybe marine outboards.
I've now got Thursday off so can test the resistance of it on and off bike, if it fails it will stay off until I've cobbled something together.
If I can get the car sensor to work I'll go that route, if not I'll try some sort of resistor, Downside will be cold start and the fan will never cut in, not that it ever has and if it believes the bike is always cold it never would have cut in. Does anyone know the type of connection to the loom.
Paul
It won't affect the fan, that sensor is the one at the bottom of the RH side of the bike below the ignition cover.
Quote from: grog on Tuesday, 25 August 2026, 08:54 PMFrom USA
Is that correct one as the gsx one is
13650-42F00
The USA one is
13650-42f10-000
Give or take a - or two
As I recall from looking at part numbers before, the third section is the colour/paint. So it's probably correct.
Quote from: Hooli on Tuesday, 25 August 2026, 09:59 PMAs I recall from looking at part numbers before, the third section is the colour/paint. So it's probably correct.
Good stuff 👏
Had a look tonight but need to loosen the tank as the oil sensor wire is trapped slightly, however did come across this, unsure of dimensions, 184768 Febi 1757904 1871772, not quite the same but close apart from the O ring
Found this one, on sale
I'll get to pull it all off and take a look tomorrow, I do hope it is fubar cos if its not I'm going to have a lot of egg on my face :whistling:
Do these oil sensors need to bath in splashing oil or are the just in the area. Getting something similar is problematic as I don't know the dimensions on the other sensors. Could a generic oil sensor not be fitted in the oil filler hole with appropriate fittings :salute:
Main oil gallery bolt, is m14 x1.25 generally quite a standard fitment for a temp sensor
Pretty sure its just an area temp sensor. It doesn't sit in a bath of oil, so any suitable fitting sensor would do. They are robus, ive only heard of Hooli having a failed one. Mine passed both the manual specified values and the hand held resistance check. My rough running was due to ebay special low quality injectors :facepalm:
An ex's 14 had problems for years I never figured out at the time. Looking back that was the oil temp sensor too.
Both K2s but I wouldn't say it was age as that was 15 year ago now.
So, got to the temp sensor plug and the readings with the meter set to 200 are the following
Stone cold but warm garage 56.4
Bike run for 3 min 36.8
Another 5 min 08.7
5 again with some blips 04.7
3 mins after 04.0
So if I'm reading the meter correctly.....rubs egg on face :rofl2:
The oil temp sensor is ok :embarassed:
However when hot hold the throttle steady at 2500 it will hunt up and down slightly, I've tightened the intake rubbers and set the tickover at 1100. Still smells rich, any thoughts would be appreciated, although I think teabag filter, throttle body balance and tps will be next.
And a further thank you to anyone here who's helped out with suggestions and ideas.
Paul :smitten:
At a guestimation those figures do seem about right so that's one thing to rule out at least.
Agreed on the teabag, flush out the high pressure filter too or replace it with a Chinky 'busa one off ebay etc. It sounds wrong but low fuel pressure can make them appear rich. What I think is happening is the low pressure ruins the spray pattern from the injectors meaning the fuel doesn't atomise properly so it can't burn. I had a blocked filter causing puffs of black smoke when cracking the throttle open.
Quote from: Hooli on Friday, 28 August 2026, 12:16 AMAt a guestimation those figures do seem about right so that's one thing to rule out at least.
Agreed on the teabag, flush out the high pressure filter too or replace it with a Chinky 'busa one off ebay etc. It sounds wrong but low fuel pressure can make them appear rich. What I think is happening is the low pressure ruins the spray pattern from the injectors meaning the fuel doesn't atomise properly so it can't burn. I had a blocked filter causing puffs of black smoke when cracking the throttle open.
My riding companions do report that when I open the taps it does give a brief puff and it's only got 25000 miles so it's not worn out.
I'll take a look at tps when next I can get to the bike and get some filters ordered
The low preasure dribble does make sense
:cheers:
Is this the high pressure filter
https://ebay.io/m/E271I3
Quote from: Phill P on Friday, 28 August 2026, 03:33 AMIs this the high pressure filter
https://ebay.io/m/E271I3
Aye that's the jobbie.
At least that rules out the oil temp sensor.
Agree it will be fuel pressure related.
Quote from: Phill P on Friday, 28 August 2026, 12:53 AMand it's only got 25000 miles so it's not worn out.
Not even run in tbh, as you probably know my first 14 is on 186k miles and was running perfectly when last on the road.
When you do the filter put a thin cable tie or stainless wire around to hold the bit at the top on. A few people have had them pop loose randomly on genuine stuff, I can't imagine it's less likely on cheap aftermarket versions.
Oh yeah and a smear of rubber grease on the O-ring that seals the outlet as it's easy to crack a filter if that sticks and moves as you push it all together.
Quote from: Hooli on Friday, 28 August 2026, 03:44 PMQuote from: Phill P on Friday, 28 August 2026, 12:53 AMand it's only got 25000 miles so it's not worn out.
Not even run in tbh, as you probably know my first 14 is on 186k miles and was running perfectly when last on the road.
When you do the filter put a thin cable tie or stainless wire around to hold the bit at the top on. A few people have had them pop loose randomly on genuine stuff, I can't imagine it's less likely on cheap aftermarket versions.
Oh yeah and a smear of rubber grease on the O-ring that seals the outlet as it's easy to crack a filter if that sticks and moves as you push it all together.
I'll do that, need to read up a bit more on changing it :cheers:
I'll look at tps at the weekend
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Friday, 28 August 2026, 08:46 AMAt least that rules out the oil temp sensor.
Agree it will be fuel pressure related.
In some was it's a shame because it would have been an easy fix....although none in the world as such, still no increase in revs when warm like the 2nd map kicking in and smells rich, although runs fine in normal riding, but at at 2500 revs, ie slow stuff the bike becomes not as nice to ride, but that is also when when held at 2500 rpm so not load related. Tre helped as did pairs delete. :whatever:
Yeah Mate have a read, not at all difficult. I'll put up pic of tie wire around regulator.Easiest for TPS is put it in dealer mode, check the line on the dash.All written on here, easier than mucking around with voltage/ohms IMO.Get that throttle body balanced, I just recently found makes a huge difference 😎Really should be able to hear/ feel / see motor change when lightly in/out with clutch. Maybe chuck a new clutch switch on, not expensive.
Quote from: grog on Friday, 28 August 2026, 05:06 PMYeah Mate have a read, not at all difficult. I'll put up pic of tie wire around regulator.Easiest for TPS is put it in dealer mode, check the line on the dash.All written on here, easier than mucking around with voltage/ohms IMO.Get that throttle body balanced, I just recently found makes a huge difference 😎Really should be able to hear/ feel / see motor change when lightly in/out with clutch. Maybe chuck a new clutch switch on, not expensive.
Funny you say clutch switch as I was going to order one, although mine seems OK its so cheap why not, belt and braces so to speak
Clutch switch, tea bag filter, and Hayabusa filter ordered, plus J'tech tail tidy for the Zed :cheers:
Now looking at rain outside and watching captain scarlet with a coffee
Quote from: Phill P on Saturday, 29 August 2026, 06:42 PMClutch switch, tea bag filter, and Hayabusa filter ordered, plus J'tech tail tidy for the Zed :cheers:
Now looking at rain outside and watching captain scarlet with a coffee
And you're a mysteron 🙀🙀
:rofl2:
Clutch switch changed a couple of weeks ago, no difference noticed at tickover etc. Teabag filter and high pressure filter done today and made up new vac lines and tea pieces.
Not taken it out yet but it does hold 2500 rpm much better than before, some muck on the teabag filter. Will let you know how it runs :cheers:
That should make some difference. Did you back flush the hp filter?
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Sunday, 13 September 2026, 10:37 PMThat should make some difference. Did you back flush the hp filter?
It's a new one :cheers:
When I drained the tank I thought I'd got all of the fuel out. Luckily it was just far enough below the fuel pump not to come out, but for what I could see the tank is really clean on the inside. I May get some fuel injector cleaner for when I fill up next week.
Soooo just went out and filled up with Tescos finest 99, on the way I cracked the throttle open in 1st gear....cough and off she went, same in 2nd gear, bugger what have I fudged up. Filled up and accidentally started the bike without pulling the clutch in (blame kawasaki for that), drove deliberately cracking the throttle open, yup ran like a bag a spanners. Got home and removed the brand new clutch switch and fitted the original, ran sweet as a nut. JMP clutch switch if your interested.