Well lads,
Got meself a gsx1400 as a project bike to keep meself busy.
Tank is rusted too bits,holes forming when you tap it!
No battery
Front forks need changing which will be fun!
And need TLC else where.
Question tho, eventually got the spark plugs out with a bit of effort. Been looking and seen its best to put a table spoon of oil into the cylinders by the spark plug holes to lubricate it,good idea?
Also want to get it started and make sure it actually runs and starts.
Any tips on getting it running temporally Without a tank and fuel pump?
I don't think its possible ... I think the injection system needs the pressure from the pump. I am sure someone far smarter than me will be along shortly tho... :P
Sounds like a big piece of work.
No to the oil through spark plug holes. If you want to lube before start, disconnect fuel pump electric connector and crank the engine with the starter.
No chance to get her started without fuel pump as you need a fuel pressure of about 43 psi.
That sounds like a hell of a job you've got on your hands. Any pics of the poor sad thing?
The forks are one of the easier things to do. Starting without a tank or fuel pump?, not going to happen. Because it's fuel injected, it needs pressure to run. So, you could make up some jury rig of a tank & substitute pump or see if you can borrow one from a local owner. You'd also need a battery.
I'd be going through things & checking their condition prior to 'seeing if she'll go' The oil will no doubt need to be changed & filter too, hell, heaps of things.
Tell us a bit more about it, is it a wreck? has it been abandoned & left languishing out in all weathers for ages? Is it seized? (oil down plug hole question) How many miles has it got on it? When was the last know time it was running? What model (or year) is it? All these little things will assist us to assist you in getting it running again. There are plenty of bikes here that have come back from near 'death' . The engine is a great lump, but not indestructible.
Thanks lads I figured it wouldn't work without a pump. This my first fuel injection bike,all previous were carbs and could start it with just gravity!
The original pump was in the tank and the fuel sender so there fairly rusted.
I'm give the pump 12v and see if its still engaging if not there's some on eBay for about €30.
My main goal at the minute is to make sure it starts and actually runs since the previous owner had it lying up for 3 years!!!
Cool so no to the oil in cylinders.
Was told because its lying so long to put oil/diesel in the cylinders to lube the pistons.
Won't bother so.
I don't like to disagree with Andre, but if it were me, I would put some sort of lube down the plug hole. It's not going to hurt anything, maybe just smoke a bit when it does fire up.
Clean oil & filter & spinning it over on the starter will circulate the oil, but it's that initial cold dry cranking that would concern me.
Quote from: KiwiCol on Wednesday, 13 June 2018, 06:33 PM
That sounds like a hell of a job you've got on your hands. Any pics of the poor sad thing?
The forks are one of the easier things to do. Starting without a tank or fuel pump?, not going to happen. Because it's fuel injected, it needs pressure to run. So, you could make up some jury rig of a tank & substitute pump or see if you can borrow one from a local owner. You'd also need a battery.
I'd be going through things & checking their condition prior to 'seeing if she'll go' The oil will no doubt need to be changed & filter too, hell, heaps of things.
Tell us a bit more about it, is it a wreck? has it been abandoned & left languishing out in all weathers for ages? Is it seized? (oil down plug hole question) How many miles has it got on it? When was the last know time it was running? What model (or year) is it? All these little things will assist us to assist you in getting it running again. There are plenty of bikes here that have come back from near 'death' . The engine is a great lump, but not indestructible.
I'll post some pics of the poor thing.lol
Its a 02 model.
Previous owner hadn't used it in about 3 years.
He said the engine was perfect before it was left.
He said he left it as it needed a front tyre and didn't get time to go back to it.
When he did go back it he said there was rust on/in the tank and tried to sort it himself but was a disaster and ruined the tank/pump/fuel sender.
Defo needs oil/ filter change!!
The tanks on these are like hens teeth here!
I've managed to source a 2nd hand tank with a dent and scratch on it for cheap.
Mileage I'm unsure. I still haven't picked a battery up(plan on getting it later today) .
I hooked up my jump starter to it but where the mileage is on the clock is just flashing lines no actual numbers.
Quote from: Suzuki boi on Wednesday, 13 June 2018, 06:12 PM
Any tips on getting it running temporally Without a tank and fuel pump?
You need a fuel pump, some temporary tank, 3 Bar regulator, return line from regulator and a fuel filter.
No problem with disagreement here Col :) Always happy for lively discussions. I have no problem disagreeing with anyone either :cheers:
When you crank her, the oil pump will engage immediately and build oil pressure. Oil gets squirted to all the parts needing it, not just the pistons. The cranking will not put any substantial load on any parts. Sure you can put a little oil don the spark plug holes. Can't hurt but won't do much good in prelubing the pistons/cylinders sufficiently as it will have a hard time getting passed the rings. Cranking will bring the oil right where it is needed (not just the pistons/cyls) in a hurry.
personally id give it a bit of lube down plug holes, will lube up liners. an initial trial to start for a few seconds, spray carby cleaner into air intake.
Ok, now we know it's not seized or anything & was running fine prior to layup, it changes the pic I have in my head of it. Now I'm inclined to agree with Andre, won't hurt but probably not needed either. Just a spin up with plugs out would be good for it.
She'll go, get a tank, battery & oil / filter & prob new Air cleaner too and give her a whirl. There could be all sorts of gremlins & electric issues with connectors & switches if it's been a long time. Just have to work through them as they come up.
I doubt it needs oil down the bores, but a small amount & then turned over without plugs can't hurt. The idea of it is to lube the rings slightly so they don't drag on the bore before the oil throw from the crank gets there. It's a good idea to be sure of not damaging anything.
Personally I'd add a bit of oil down each pot, turn it over by hand (take a side cover off & get a spanner on the crank) a few complete turns should spread the oil out & protect it for ages longer. Then put some plugs back to keep water & moisture out.
Btw, I've known a 14 parked up a lot longer than that which was just started on the button after an oil change & didn't have any issues.
(https://s22.postimg.cc/mv8rm4rgt/IMG_20180611_214106.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/mv8rm4rgt/)
(https://s22.postimg.cc/cl6cmvm5p/IMG_20180612_114734.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/cl6cmvm5p/)
(https://s22.postimg.cc/3q5icca7x/IMG_20180612_114751.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/3q5icca7x/)
(https://s22.postimg.cc/79rg267st/IMG_20180613_125422.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/79rg267st/)
(https://s22.postimg.cc/i9cndqvn1/IMG_20180613_125723.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/i9cndqvn1/)
(https://s22.postimg.cc/q0tdcvzyl/IMG_20180613_125727.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/q0tdcvzyl/)
(https://s22.postimg.cc/3q5icbusd/IMG_20180613_125744.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/3q5icbusd/)
(https://s22.postimg.cc/jl7dj151p/1528892200100wallpaper.png) (https://postimg.cc/image/jl7dj151p/)
Sorry for crappy pics,tough taking them with the little lad in the arms.
1st pic is of what it looked like when I got it into the yard.
poor thing.
Obvious case of previousowneritus :facepalm:
Looks cleaner than mine!
Quote from: Hooli on Thursday, 14 June 2018, 03:08 AM
Looks cleaner than mine!
I'm telling ya the pictures make it look way better the it is!! :lol:
You've not seen mine! I've given Barmy a fit with pics before :)
Looks like its related to the old chap I'm working on at the moment, my tank is better, but your frame is better and your forks... :doh: previous owners eh?
The front guard looks ok.
And the oil cooler cover.
:whistling:
Had a look at the piccys.......The Russian bride you are advertising looks to have less rust than than your bike. :onya:
nice dog. the bike, lots of work.
Previous owner should be shot for letting the bike get into that state :furious:
Trade it in for one of those Slavic beauties!!
:hat:
Well my OCD just went off the scale id love to get me paws on that the wife would have to get me out the shed at gun point :popcorn: cant wait to see this one resurected
Haha don't worry every time I pull something off a tears fall out of my eyes!!!
I don't think there's anything salvageable from the fuel pump/housing or the sender.
So gonna order a pump and housing,a sender from eBay and get a dented and scratched tank from a lad locally.
Parts for this bike are like hens teeth ,none of the breakers yards get these in for parts!!!
Hopefully I'll have her running by end of next week!
Quick question lads.
Are all the parts from 2002-2006 gsx's the same?
As in would a fuel pump from a 2006 model fit my 2002 model?
Have a look here https://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/ you'll be able to compare part numbers to confirm.
I think they'll be the same though, along with GSXR1000s etc, pretty sure they used the same pump in everything. I think it's also sold for toyotas of some type, the cross reference is probably on here somewhere.
No there are many differences between 02-04 and 05 onwards but the fuel pumps are all the same
Other Suzuki (gsxr600/750) maybe even the 1250 bandit ones also fit if you use the gsx1400 mounting plate .There is info on that in other threads.
Good advice
@Hooli :cheers:
Thanks lads.
Unfortunately I need the whole housing with pump and filter as you can see by the pictures this one is fairly f**ked,!!!
Checked and seen the fuel pump assay is the same part number as well as the fuel sender.
Unfortunately a different code for the fuel tank
You'd be amazed how much of that crud can be washed off and cleaned up using carb cleaner.
But if you replace the pump with a different one you will still need the metal lower mounting part of the pump assembly to fit the replacement pump
:cheers:
Different code for the tank is just down the different paint jobs as far as I'm aware.
Partly
@Hooli all tanks fit every model but the earlier models have a different filler hole without the restricter the later models have does make a difference to using the tank on any other model just when filling up the later nozzle hole is smaller .
Hope that made some kind of sense.
:cheers:
The gsx1400 tanks are interchangeable throughout the whole range. Biggest difference is the paint.
A k2 has a bigger filler hole in it so a dumbass can get a diesel pistol in it.
Think they that changed that in 2004.
:embarrassed:
Must type faster :tongue:
Sorry buddy
@Blubber :cheers:
Never having been in a household with one newer than K3 I didn't know that...
So would you need a different filler cap for the later tanks too?
Nope same filler cap across all models .
:cheers:
Mate what you gonna do with the tank that came with the bike
Thanks lads.
Bought the original tank I was looking at.
There's a dent in it and scratch,but f**k it.
Wanna attempt at either pulling the dent out or using something like body filler to repair it then spray it.
Never did anything like that before so will be fun.
Ordered the fuel pump so hoping to have it by the end of next week and firing her up!!
Quote from: Latty66 on Saturday, 16 June 2018, 09:21 AM
Mate what you gonna do with the tank that came with the bike
was planning on dumping it in the bin. Why you want it????????
I would'a use the original tank with some duct tape - that'll fixer!
:hat:
Im into doing resto's and that tank is one of the worst iv seen it would have been intresting to see what i could do with it the problem is your in ireland and i cant find a carrier who would ship a petrol tank in that condition if you have 5min spare could you pm me some pic.s of the underneath and various other angles just for a future referance of my own mate also what were the bolts like on the pump like and the hole it came out of thanks in advance
Sorry guys these arent for the faint hearted.....
(https://s8.postimg.cc/yp5aux20h/IMG_20180617_143639.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/yp5aux20h/)
(https://s8.postimg.cc/p4lo80pj5/IMG_20180617_143653.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/p4lo80pj5/)
(https://s8.postimg.cc/lxr4oecsx/IMG_20180617_143705.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/lxr4oecsx/)
(https://s8.postimg.cc/xmv4cc8wh/IMG_20180617_143719.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/xmv4cc8wh/)
Quote from: Latty66 on Sunday, 17 June 2018, 07:46 PM
Im into doing resto's and that tank is one of the worst iv seen it would have been intresting to see what i could do with it the problem is your in ireland and i cant find a carrier who would ship a petrol tank in that condition if you have 5min spare could you pm me some pic.s of the underneath and various other angles just for a future referance of my own mate also what were the bolts like on the pump like and the hole it came out of thanks in advance
Let me know if those pics are OK for ya
Impressive rot :worshippy:
I think he tried to clean the tank a with pickling paste , like Pelox or something. :whatever:
The main working ingredients are Nitric Acid and Hydrofluoric acid.
It is used for local corrosion ( and cleaning welds ) but you need to neutralise it after use... ( and degrease before use )
If left it's worse than the original problem :facepalm:
We have a technical term for that tank, it's FU Celvin Klein ED. :happy1:
Well that is pretty impressive rot :hat:and the only thing you could use that for is taking measurments thank you for taking the time to photo it
Personally i would buy a can of clear coat spray it and keep as a reminder and conversional piece when you complete the bike you can make a direct before and after a proper jaw dropper once again thanks
Quote from: Latty66 on Monday, 18 June 2018, 11:31 PM
Well that is pretty impressive rot :hat:and the only thing you could use that for is taking measurments thank you for taking the time to photo it
Personally i would buy a can of clear coat spray it and keep as a reminder and conversional piece when you complete the bike you can make a direct before and after a proper jaw dropper once again thanks
I'd love to keep it somewhere but the missus wants rid of it asap.lol. she HATES clutter.(wait till I really start stripping the bike.)
While I'm waiting for parts I was thinking of getting stuck in to the forks.
I was reading up on here and talks of this "fork tool".
Is it totally necessary? If so can someone post dimensions?
I found in the download section one for a k5 but mines a k2.
Quote from: Suzuki boi on Thursday, 21 June 2018, 08:21 PM
Quote from: Latty66 on Monday, 18 June 2018, 11:31 PM
Well that is pretty impressive rot :hat:and the only thing you could use that for is taking measurments thank you for taking the time to photo it
Personally i would buy a can of clear coat spray it and keep as a reminder and conversional piece when you complete the bike you can make a direct before and after a proper jaw dropper once again thanks
I'd love to keep it somewhere but the missus wants rid of it asap.lol. she HATES clutter.(wait till I really start stripping the bike.)
While I'm waiting for parts I was thinking of getting stuck in to the forks.
I was reading up on here and talks of this "fork tool".
Is it totally necessary? If so can someone post dimensions?
I found in the download section one for a k5 but mines a k2.
Look down this thread http://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=2179.msg34995#msg34995
Essentially (for a K2), get hold of a bit of old 1/2" gas pipe and file out 4 arches at right angles to each other in one end (you'll see what I mean in that thread as around about the 9th entry from the top, mlivkovich shows dimensions and pictures :onya:
I'm not sure what the nut on one end does, however, make the pipe itself long enough to go down the inside of your fork leg to around about where the top of the slider is (about 2' would do) and the 4 arches will "slot" over the unit inside. You can then undo the bolt at the bottom of the slider. I drilled at hole at the top of the tool I made to put a bar through it to make it easier to hold the tool when undoing the nut - bit like the aftermarket one shown earlier in that thread
Thanks barmy :onya:
So fuel pump arrived today .
Hooked it all up.
Changed oil and filter,got new battery
Went to start up ,nothing.
No crank nothing.
I'm thinking its either the starter switch itself or the relay.
The relay gets 12v to it one side but 0v on the starter side even with the button pressed.
The thing that has me stumped is the odometer.
Its flashing lines,at one stage it said "chec".
I'm guessing that has something to do with the ecm?
Here's a pic of what comes up
(https://s8.postimg.cc/nfdldsc4h/IMG_20180622_195315.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/nfdldsc4h/)
You could try and put the bike into dealer mode as described in this thread
http://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=1383.msg15153;topicseen#msg15153
Then use the code it gives you to try and narrow down where to look for your problem.
:cheers:
CHEC normally comes up when the kill switch is off. You might also check the contacts on the clutch switch and sidestand switch.
So when you switched on - whilst nothing happened in terms of cranking - did the dials sweep? Did you hear the fuel pump prime?
Kill switch?
Is there an echo in here? :rofl2:
Appears so, I was eating my breakfast (Bacon & Eggs on toast) & reading the post, thought Kill Switch, finished breaky then posted, only to find Seth & you were already onto it. Shows what happens if ya leave the post open for a bit before replying.
Sound lads.
Yep it not cause of the kill switch.
Yep I hear the fuel pump prime,dials sweep.
Only figured why "chec" came up,had a relay disconnected at the time.
The whole odo flashing is weird to me!!!!
Will try that dealer mode.
Poxy bike!!!!
If you can put it in dealer mode it will give you more of a clue on what's happening .
No luck in dealer mode
(https://s8.postimg.cc/juhpudztd/IMG_20180622_205311.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/juhpudztd/)
Go through all the plugs making sure they are all properly connected.
Was it running before ?
:cheers:
Must of had blonde moment.
Didn't know you had to Hold the clutch in :lol:
Got it going but runs like absolute s**t!!!!
Barely idles. Gave it a good few blips.
Smoke coming from the headers I think.
Found a hole in one of the headers :whistling:
Hopefully it just from the wd40 I sprayed as well.lol.
When the new plugs arrive hopefulpy that sorts the idling issue.
Clocks aren't working so will need to replace them aswell :cry2:
:doh:
If it's running you've got a chance to get it sorted .
:facepalm:
Quote from: seth on Saturday, 23 June 2018, 06:26 AM
:doh:
If it's running you've got a chance to get it sorted .
:facepalm:
First bike I've been on that needed the clutch pulled in :lol:
If you dont know you don't know .
Glad your making progress
:cheers:
Iridium plugs arrived from tr250 :cheers:
Bike starts first tip of the button! Runs a lot better.
So engine running in good nick.
Took a plunge at the forks today.
Got them off.
Got in to one of them, got everything out ,spring, damper rod etc with a fork tool.
Used my lever from my car jack to wedge the damper rod from spinning.
But for the life off me I can't separate the tube from the slider.!!!!!!
I've got the clip out(which is f**ked)
I been puling them apart for hours And nothing they not budging!! :confused1:
I've drilled The 2 holes in tubes bigger and stuck a driver through it and got it wedged down and put the front wheel shaft on the slider and banged the bejesus out of it and no luck.
I've poured boiling water onto it but nope still doesnt want to come apart!
I'm gonna pick up a heat gun and try that but which one will do? I wouldn't need a powerful one would I?
An oul black and decker one do?
BLACK+DECKER KX1650-GB Heat Gun, 1750 W https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0058GIATY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5numBbHBXKV2M
If the bolt is out of the bottom and the circlip is out from the forkseal nothing to stop it coming apart heat will just damage things.
Use the fork slider like a slide hammer it will come apart.
:cheers:
Quote from: seth on Tuesday, 26 June 2018, 05:38 AM
If the bolt is out of the bottom and the circlip is out from the forkseal nothing to stop it coming apart heat will just damage things.
Use the fork slider like a slide hammer it will come apart.
:cheers:
4 hours of me and parts of my missus doing that and no luck. :grin:
I've a feeling the bushings are wedged onto each other and not letting it come out
Only thing that can be holding them together is the fork seal
:cheers:
Quote from: seth on Tuesday, 26 June 2018, 05:47 AM
Only thing that can be holding them together is the fork seal
:cheers:
Any other techniques in getting it out?
Sorry I can't be more help but that's how I've always taken them apart with out much hassles.
Hopefully they come apart ok are you sure everything else is removed as you shouldn't be having as much bother as you are.
As Seth says, with the bolt out of the bottom of the slider the fork tube and slider come apart by using as a jack hammer to separate the two. The only thing holding the two together is the fork seal itself (assuming you have the spring etc out of the fork itself.
Maybe spray some WD40 around the fork seal itself (assuming you e removed the dust seal and spring holding the fork seal in) to help free it off.
(https://s15.postimg.cc/fzk5tgoon/IMG_20180625_124956.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/fzk5tgoon/)
This is how horrible the seal looked before I even started.
(https://s15.postimg.cc/j6epd2tp3/IMG-20180625-_WA0007.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/j6epd2tp3/)
This how it looks now. I scraped what I could of the seal .
(https://s15.postimg.cc/s1fjnlarr/IMG-20180625-_WA0009.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/s1fjnlarr/)
Damper rod removed.
(https://s15.postimg.cc/abdv2jph3/IMG-20180625-_WA0011.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/abdv2jph3/)
Also found this spring circle when dismantling,unsure what it is :doh:
The spring is part of the fork seal .
I've seen worse did you find the circlip holding the seal in as you need to remove it then they will come apart fairly easily.
:cheers:
Quote from: seth on Wednesday, 27 June 2018, 02:50 AM
The spring is part of the fork seal .
I've seen worse did you find the circlip holding the seal in as you need to remove it then they will come apart fairly easily.
:cheers:
Yep clip is out.
Was rusted to bits ,I think I threw it out as soon as I took it out.
Ok should mow pull apart slide they lower and use as a slide hammer .
There is nothing else to stop them coming apart.
:cheers:
Have you tried kicking it around the garage? Cause that won't help.
Like Seth says, it should pull out like a slide hammer once the clip retaining the seal is out.
Brought the fork over to a mates house who had a heat gun/blow torch.
Attempting heating it but no luck.
Trying pulling it apart again with some more force but no luck.
We noticed the seal was twisted so extended the tube and angel grinded most of it off then just forced the tube back past the seal.
Pulled seal out,tube came out
Went home and got the 2nd fork apart,tube out in about 20minutes.wtf!!!
Now to source 2 new tubes!!! :whistling:
Make sure you get the right stantions for your year of bike as there are 3 different sets for different years .
:cheers:
Are the stantions errrrm.."its worse than that Jim their dead Jim dead Jim?"...
Quote from: seth on Thursday, 28 June 2018, 04:42 AM
Make sure you get the right stantions for your year of bike as there are 3 different sets for different years .
:cheers:
I thought it was only the lowers that changed?
The fork tubes(stantions) are different to .
:cheers:
Okey dokey, I've never touched the newfangled 14s just proper K2s (& once a k3) to notice.
The lower end of the fork has different size hole to take different endstops (yellow or white plastic)
The damper hole near the lower end of the fork is in 3 different places on 3 different forks (Not sure what differences this makes)
:cheers:
Ahh, I'd assume they are to line up with the flow from the different cartridges.
I'll stick to proper 14s (K2s) & leave the new fangled ones alone then :stir:
Update on my little progress here.
Was busy trying to get the headers off as there all f**ked.
As I was loosening the header bolts the first one came off grand,then bam the second ones head snapped and the 3rd,4th,5th,and 7th and 8th :jack: :jack:
They all snapped right off even tho I had soaked them in wd40 for a few nights :doh:
So I never welded before and decided to buy a cheap flux core welder from lidl and give welding a nut on to the bolts a shot!
Nope failed miserably,nut snapped every time ,lidl welder obviously not good enough.
Don't wanna risk drilling it out so there's a lad I know that will give it a go with his welder.
So gotta take the engine out and bring it over to him. Can't wait :doh:
I've sourced 2 tubes from ABE (All bike engineering) for £90 a tube and £20 delivery to Ireland. That's a good price. :onya: :onya:
Cheapest here is €320 for 2.
Want your opinion on this from eBay.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F192560931934
Obviously these aren't genuine but would they do the job or will I need more genuine parts?
Working on other cars/bikes I know there's certain parts that should be OEM .
I heard from someone on here (I think it was Andre) that the "All Balls" kits are fine..
I recently overhauled my own forks but used OEM Suzuki..
To be honest I didnt know about the All Balls kit at that time.
Yep, got them All Balls and they are fine (so far). The Dust cap, IMO, is certainly a superior design over the OEM.
Sorry to hear about them header bolts. A "pleasure" I have yet to look forward to.
I've used all balls fork seals on my speed triple and they are fine.
Sound lads.
Was iffy as that one on eBay is about €50 home.
Quotes elsewhere I was getting was about €80-€90.
So its half the price!
I'll go ahead and order it :onya:
Quick one for ya lads
I'm in the process of taking this engine out as I've no luck getting those bolts out of the headers
Haynes manual says take the front sprocket off,but thing was tightened by the Hulk himself,so I'm thinking it says to remove front sprocket to get the chain out of the way.
Could I just cut the chain and leave the front sprocket attached??
Looks like it would work but thought I'd ask before something else fucks up on this bike !!!
The front sprocket is at a very high torque so a pain to get off .
You will be able to remove the engine with out removing the sprocket for what your needing to do.
:cheers:
Quote from: seth on Monday, 13 August 2018, 04:27 AM
The front sprocket is at a very high torque so a pain to get off .
You will be able to remove the engine with out removing the sprocket for what your needing to do.
:cheers:
Thanks Seth.
Yep its a pain alright.
Had someone on the rear brake while I losses it but the wheel kept spinning eventually.
Grind the chain is the way to go so :onya:
I have a big power elecricly powered rattle gun the only easy way to remove the sprocket nut .
:onya:
Put a towel in-between the rear sprocket and the chain, that will help, as well as standing on the brake. Always worked for me, never yet had to use a rattle gun, but as a last course of action, you may have to
Quote from: seth on Monday, 13 August 2018, 04:36 AM
I have a big power elecricly powered rattle gun the only easy way to remove the sprocket nut .
:onya:
I used a breaker bar with a steel tube over the end of it (total of 5 feet long) with a mate stood on the brake.
All I succeeded in doing was lifting the bike up off its centre stand.
In the end I bit the bullet and bought the same mains powered rattle gun as recommended by Seth. I could not believe how effortlessly it removed the nut.. I was literally dumbfounded !
Decent battery powered rattle guns are horrendously expensive so dont go there !!
The rattle gun I got as recommended by Seth is in the photo below..
sorry Speedy, my battery powered Ryobi un does it easily. $129. have had for 5 yrs, wouldve undone around 2500 wheel nuts also. its my work tool.
Would you post what the model / voltage of the Ryobi is please Grog? That's a very good price, I'd like to check this out for myself - even though I've got a compressed air rattle gun, a battery one that's capable as this sounds at that sort of price is definitely worth a look.
@grog
https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-one-18v-3-speed-impact-wrench-skin-only_p6210658 This is latest model, gone up a bit. For $199 full kit gives 2 batts & charger
Thanks Grog. They're $199 here skin only. Don't have the kit by the looks & buying batteries & chargers seperately is deaar. Will look closer into it when I'm not at work.
Sorry lads hadn't had much time to really do much lately.
Got the engine out.
Attempting welding a but on with a mates welder but only managed to get one out!
Drilling was the only option for the rest so drilled and got the other 3 out!
Engine is sitting at the mates house until Tuesday ,when I'll lash it back in.
Noticed when removing the engine the clutch release housing is totally gunked up!!!
Managed to get the front sprocket off aswell.
Have bought new:
Fork tubes
Chain and sprockets
Headers and collector box(black widow )
Front and back pads.
Air filter
Oil and oil filter
So plenty to put on.
Will put up pics when I can get a hold of a device that isn't as slow as this phone!!
Well guys
Haven't been near the bike since September.
Decided to venture out and check on it last night,
Still didn't look great :lol:
Spark plugs were full of water! :jack:
Did my first ever fork tube change last night.
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi920.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fad42%2Fdeano12345%2FMobile%2520Uploads%2FIMG_20190111_210358.jpg&hash=39e06703722239ee2a49c0943cc6b18652b7f18e) (http://s920.photobucket.com/user/deano12345/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20190111_210358.jpg.html)
Couldn't do the second one as I'm missing the washer that sits in between the bushing and oil seal. :jack:
Tried to put the throttle body back today but ran into shit with it.
Got it into place but can't seem to get throttle body to fit into the engine side
Can fit into the air box and tightened up but cant seem to get it to get into place the engine side.
No matter how much force I put into pushing it in it won't fit in.
Any advice?
@gsxbarmy made a tool out of a thin metal plate to help get the throttle bodies back on with.
Not an easy job at the best of times harder when it's cold .
Good luck
:cheers:
Quote from: seth on Tuesday, 15 January 2019, 05:37 AM
@gsxbarmy made a tool out of a thin metal plate to help get the throttle bodies back on with.
Not an easy job at the best of times harder when it's cold .
Good luck
:cheers:
I seen that thread from barmy , luckily I didn't need to do that and managed to wiggle it into place .
I have it in I just can't seem to push it into the engine side :whatever: it's all connected up the air filter side
I'll throw a pic up of what I mean tomorrow morning.
I'd disconnect the filter side & try again. If you undo the mounting bolts for the airbox you get more movement. As the engine can't move that side is harder to get in.
A smear of red rubber grease (or WD40 if that's all you've got) around the ends of the TBs helps them pop in.
Quote from: seth on Tuesday, 15 January 2019, 05:37 AM
@gsxbarmy made a tool out of a thin metal plate to help get the throttle bodies back on with.
Not an easy job at the best of times harder when it's cold .
Good luck
:cheers:
Actually it was
@Snapey (Pete) that came up with that clever solution, I just typed it up from the notes I had from the old org for publishing on here
(https://i.ibb.co/9Wcw7L6/IMG-20190115-092738.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JHmx94V)
(https://babynamesetc.com/rhyming)
Gonna try put wd40 on it to try and get it in.
It has me stumped on why it won't go in :whatever:
Figured there was a method or technique im missing :whatever:
it might be being "held" by the airbox, not necessarily the connection on the outside, but the ones going across cylinders 2 & 3.
Push n wiggle, it's a twat to get them in sometimes. It'll be worse in the cold as the rubbers won't be as flexible.
Suzuki boi
Ahem :whistling: i trust you have seen
@Grahamir front forks.........just saying :onya:
Good luck with your rebuild following with interest :salute:
yea, good luck with those fork sliders, they look worse than mine did. Doable though. Forgot to mention in my post, get a small rubber block or something similar to wrap emery around, and keep paper soaked in paraffin or WD (which I used). You're doing a hellava job though.
Have you tried this stuff, I bought a shit load years ago and they are brilliant for this kind of stuff. Might find them cheaper if you look around.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Garryson-Garryflex-Abrasive-Block-240grit/dp/B0001P08UG
Got the throttle body in today.
Heat gun and vaseline :boogie:
Got everything connected up.
Installed the new headers and collector box.
Fired her up,nope nothing.
Fiddling for over an hour and after about 100 attempts at starting I found the throttle body had gotten caught on one of the clamps and wasn't fully disengaging.
Fixed that.
Fired her up again,started but didn't idle for long without dying.
Dies when I open the throttle as well.
Found that the left header(when sitting on the bike) is ice cold while the others were hot.
Great it's running on 3 cyclinders!
Took the plug out ,looked clean , swapped it for one of the plugs.
Nope still ice cold.
Tested ignition coils. All good.
Even changed air filter as a non logical hope. Nope.
I was thinking injectors but no codes where coming up.
Disconnected that injector and no real change in idle or start up
If that injector was fully clogged should a code pop up?
Any other ideas to try?
Gonna get a compression tester on Amazon, but i strongly doubt the cyclinder is fully f**led.
Oh and about the fork legs,I've managed to clean up one of them pretty good andjust need to polish or spray now.
When I got crude in one of my injectors no code came up it just was really difficult to start .
Like 2 cylinders then 3 then 4 and once it was going it didn't like low revs and kept miss-firing on the over run.
Soon as I got the injectors cleaned and service then refitted it ran like a dream.
You could try swooping over the 2 outer injectors (lub the seals with a very light smear of oil) you should be able yo swop them without removing the throttle bodies and see if the problem changes sides .
Least then you'll have either narrowed down the problem to the injector or will need to look at other things.
We always used to say if a problem was affecting 2 common cylinders at the same time(1-4 or 2-3) it was coils if the problem was (1-2 or 3-4) it would be carb related as they normally word in pair's.
The coils on a 14 still do as do the injectors (Only with a little more electronics involved) and you still need to balance the throttle bodies or at least check the balance every now and then.
Good luck
Quote from: seth on Monday, 25 February 2019, 11:58 PM
When I got crude in one of my injectors no code came up it just was really difficult to start .
Like 2 cylinders then 3 then 4 and once it was going it didn't like low revs and kept miss-firing on the over run.
Soon as I got the injectors cleaned and service then refitted it ran like a dream.
You could try swooping over the 2 outer injectors (lub the seals with a very light smear of oil) you should be able yo swop them without removing the throttle bodies and see if the problem changes sides .
Least then you'll have either narrowed down the problem to the injector or will need to look at other things.
We always used to say if a problem was affecting 2 common cylinders at the same time(1-4 or 2-3) it was coils if the problem was (1-2 or 3-4) it would be carb related as they normally word in pair's.
The coils on a 14 still do as do the injectors (Only with a little more electronics involved) and you still need to balance the throttle bodies or at least check the balance every now and then.
Good luck
Seth you are the man.
I swapped injector 1(one that's not working ) with injector 4.
Bike starts and cuts out,after a couple of starts.
Cyclinder one was warm and cyclinder 4 was cold. So must be an injector issue .
I seen on another thread about getting them cleaned. Would a cleaning do well with this injector as it seems no fuel is coming out of it,would a new one be needed?
And since the bike doesn't even idle with 3 cyclinders I'm guessing the other 3 need a cleaning!
I'm surprised how easy it is to access and take the injectors out as in the family car it was an absolute pain in the b**lox to get at them and take them out!
I'd send all 4 to injector clean I used them
On my report
1 was 5 out of 10 the other
3 were 8.5 out of 10
They clean the injectors also replace the tiny filter in the injectors and supply replacement seals all for your postage to them plus about £60 returned to you in a few days .
A brilliant service .
Just for info Suzuki charge £201 per injector and £15 for the seal .
http://injectortune.co.uk
Good luck
I'm sure from what you've said this will sort it .
Before you refit the refurbed injectors
Make sure the fuel lines are clean and all filters to and in the pump are clean .
I also fitter a £3 inline filter to the low preasure line from the rear of the tank to the fuel pump .
No more problems since
Good luck
:cheers:
I like to add that I would check the resistance and continuity of the injectors, particular the bad one, before sending them in (see manual page 4-46). Failing these tests, imo, the injector is not serviceable.
Thanks Seth.
Ye I'd rather pay £100 for practically 4 new injectors then £900 :clapping:
Andre.
I actually tested the resistance of the bad injector before I swapped them around.
Haynes manual said resistance should be about 16.6 ohms if I remember correctly.
My injector measured at around 14.5 I think.
Would 2 ohms off mean it's buggered?
It's well within specs (see pic). Mine are 15.7
Think is the coil can be fine, but if the injector is blocked it won't supply fuel.
Should work when cleaned I'd have thought though.
@Suzuki boi The £60 was for all 4 not each
Its a win win thing they give you a fully report on the injectors with the service and cleaning.
:cheers:
Injectortune got to me.
£62 for all injectors then €20 for me to post them to him. Not bad
Although found a lad who has an ultrasonic cleaner and said he'd clean them for nothing.
Only problem is finding new injector seals/grommets.
Would you get away with just reusing the old seals/grommets?
Tried to get a picture of the top of the injector, full of gunk they were. I'm shocked that any petrol got through any of them!!
(https://i.ibb.co/wLh12yS/IMG-20190227-125520.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wLh12yS)
There is also an internal filter in the injectors that injectortune will also replace
Just for info someone who's not used to doing this might not even get them properly cleaned as the injectors also rely on the spread pattern of the fuel as it leaves the injector.
Upto you but I'd just get them serviced properly by folk who do this for a living and supply everything you need to refit them.
Suzuki will charge £15 a seal for replacements.
Good luck .
:cheers:
Quote from: seth on Friday, 01 March 2019, 03:47 AM
There is also an internal filter in the injectors that injectortune will also replace
Just for info someone who's not used to doing this might not even get them properly cleaned as the injectors also rely on the spread pattern of the fuel as it leaves the injector.
Upto you but I'd just get them serviced properly by folk who do this for a living and supply everything you need to refit them.
Suzuki will charge £15 a seal for replacements.
Good luck .
:cheers:
Ye I'm thinking this meself Seth.
Wasn't sure if there was an internal filter in these injectors but if there is I'll definitely get injectortune to do it so :onya:
Was just a friend said he knew someone who would do them for nothing ,the little devil on me shoulder obviously loves saving money!!!! :clapping:
But no I'll get it sent to injectortune.
Save money other ways like going to the cheapest petrol station in town or things like that not on something you can't do yourself.
Looking at those injectors I would also fit an inline filter pre the fuel pump and make sure the other filters(teabag& high pressure fuelpump) as well as the fuel lines a dam good clean too.
I use a big can of carb cleaner on the fuel pump filter and teabag.
Thanks Seth.
Injectors sent to injectortune :cheers:
More interested to see the before results :clapping:
Found your thread
http://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=2212.0
Will give this ago while Im waiting for all the rest of my parts arrive :onya:
I've added the same filter to all 3 of our gsx1400's
For a couple of £ well worth it .
:onya:
As I wait impatiently for my injectors, I got back to looking at the forks.
Cleaned up the lower fork that i hadn't changed yet.
Gonna get some etch primer and thinking of spraying blue. What you think?
(https://i.ibb.co/FmF1jrN/IMG-20190304-130503.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FmF1jrN) (https://i.ibb.co/t4G4f7K/IMG-20190304-130439.jpg) (https://ibb.co/t4G4f7K)
Although as I was cleaning I noticed that I f**ked up the new seal I put on ages ago.
Found leaking oil :furious:
(https://i.ibb.co/5YD47nk/IMG-20190306-141540.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5YD47nk)
So this one will need to be redone. :boogie:
Got a go at the calipers.
Rear caliper mounting bolt had snapped when trying to get it off so had to use the angle grinder to get it off the bike!
now gonna have to attempt to drill the old bolt out on the caliper.
Managed to remove the piston ,now just to get a new seal set.
2 front off. Put my god the pistons were totally seized,no budge.
Tried my car tyre compressor to get them out but no luck,brought them to a petrol station and tried there compressor,no luck.
So had to resort to the primate in me and got the pipe grips out and had to pull them out!!!
But in doing so have left the odd knick in some of them but fairly scuffed others :whatever:
(https://i.ibb.co/5jLr3q6/IMG-20190306-142028.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5jLr3q6) (https://i.ibb.co/xH8jScd/IMG-20190306-141958.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xH8jScd) (https://i.ibb.co/Zgg5fXj/IMG-20190306-141905.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Zgg5fXj) (https://i.ibb.co/zJpJNzt/IMG-20190306-141821.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zJpJNzt)
Now I know the inside of the piston isn't too much of a deal with scuffs and scratches but I'm pretty sure the outside on a few of them are f**ked or what do you think? :whatever:
I'd reuse those pistons. When you consider how deep in the hole the proper seals (not the dust seals) are I doubt they'll be an issue. I've reused worse without problems.
Thanks Holli.
I'm gonna reuse the pistons.
Got one of the calipers cleaned and resealed :onya:
(https://i.ibb.co/BKBmnrj/IMG-20190317-211959.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BKBmnrj)
(https://i.ibb.co/s3JnP7c/IMG-20190317-223436.jpg) (https://ibb.co/s3JnP7c) (https://i.ibb.co/xMk8nW1/IMG-20190317-214153.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xMk8nW1)
The injectors from injectortune arrived a few days ago.
(https://i.ibb.co/Qvpf4NM/IMG-20190317-142734.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Qvpf4NM)
had a bit of time this evening.
Fitted the injectors, bike starts up and sounds much better now :clapping:
But after about 30 seconds cuts out.
May have to adjust the throttle body.
New tyres on the front and back.
My chain tool arrived from Amazon today.
But the f**kers sent me double 1 piece of tool and missing a piece.
(https://i.ibb.co/yg95Ryx/IMG-20190321-145604.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yg95Ryx)
So had to use the 2 of them on joining the chain.
First time doing a chain so I think it looks ok :whatever:.
Got the 2 front forks fitted but for the life of me I can't get the front tyre on!!!!!
I can't get the tyre and the bottom fork holes to line up :frustrated: :frustrated:. I really hope it seems impossible due to tiredness!!!!
I'm starting to think mine might need the injectors servicing. It doesn't run quite right when cold & I've checked just about everything else.
Quote from: Hooli on Friday, 22 March 2019, 07:38 AM
I'm starting to think mine might need the injectors servicing. It doesn't run quite right when cold & I've checked just about everything else.
Ye injectortune service was top notch.
Definitely a big difference since getting them done
Sounds like a winter plan then.
So I've a problem I've had for about a week and spent a bit of money and it still isn't fixed so here for some more wisdom.
I had the bike running better after the injectors were cleaned,
Needed to change a spark plug so did that a few days later.
Went to start it,nothing ,CHEC on the display.
Noticed ignition fuse was blown
Changed it
Pop again
Bit of cursing and fiddling with cables.
Turn key,fuel pump relay constantly clicking.
It will crank but not start.
Got a new fuel pump relay same thing.
Clicking would stop with fuel pump /sender disconnected.
Got new fuel pump fitted it ,nope still clicking.
Today I took the pump out of the tank.
Wired it up without the fuel sender , and the pump primes and everything sounds normal.
Happy days I thought.
Connected it all back up to the tank ,kept it wired bypassing the fuel sender.
Turned key ,pop goes ignition fuse :furious:
So the pump is shortening out to the tank or the pump is allergic to petrol :furious:
Found out what was shortening .
The live + cable that is on the base of the fuel pump housing ,was shortening on the base.
It was making contact with the base.
Insulating tape stopped the fuse blowing and the pump now primes :boogie:
Doesn't start still,something for me to mess with another day.
€50 gone on nothing :doh:
And all it was was a cable with no insulation :jack:
Well found mate. You sure are persistant. Good onya.
Well done
Keep at it your getting there .
I'm sure it'll be great when it's finished and back up and running .
:onya:
:cheers:
Thanks lads.
Bit of an update.
(https://i.ibb.co/JRRbx1k/IMG-20190407-201609.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JRRbx1k) (https://i.ibb.co/Yp280ZC/IMG-20190407-201601.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Yp280ZC)
Got her to one piece.
She's starting.
2 new tyres.
Forks done
Front brakes rebuilt,and bleed
Rear brakes rebuilt, and bleed
Clutch release mechanism cleaned and bleed.
New fuel pump.
New fuel pump relay.
New exhaust headers and collector box.
New air filter.
New chain and sprocket
4xspark plugs.
Think that's what I've done to her so far.
She's running not so great and I think it's because the spark plug cap(part that goes in over the spark plug) is cracked and broke at the end.
Wouldn't even start awhile back.
So I just wrapped insulating tape around the end to stop it arching . And now at least it starts
Also today I had leaks in the exhaust system!
My god trying to get the header from the 2nd cyclinder out is a bitch.
Gasket from the header to the collector pipe deciding to destroy itself so have no gasket for that so I just filled around it with assembly paste. Would that hold or would I need to get a gasket?
Fucking expensive things for a little gasket.
Your hard work is paying off
You can get aftermarket exhaust gaskets
Remember eBay is your friend you just need a set the correct size
Exhaust paste never lasts long term
You have gone this far do it right don't bodge it .
:cheers:
Thanks Seth.
Got a gasket and no visible leaks so far :onya:
She still not running great.
Idles fairly irratically ,can't tell what rpm it's at as the rev meter stil not working.
If I let it idle for abit eventually she poops herself and cuts out.
A couple of backfires aswell.
There is abit of white smoke when idling and revving on the left side exhaust (as you sit on the bike)
Has me thinking it's an issue with cyclinder 1 or 2.
White smoke to me is usually coolant mixing with oil( head gasket) but this bike doesn't use coolant :whatever:
Oil burning I had always associated it with blue smoke not white.
Altho the smoke could mean f**k all and just alot of condensation
Checked:
New Plugs
Ignition coils(with a multimeter)
New Air filter
Injectors cleaned
TPS
That's all I can remember checking that could possible be an issue.
Any ideas lads? :whatever:
White "Smoke" will be condensation and will stop once the engine is warmed up :onya:
Old gasoline or one of the two air pressure sensors are faulty? :whatever:
Quote from: Suzuki boi on Thursday, 18 April 2019, 02:53 AM
There is abit of white smoke when idling and revving on the left side exhaust (as you sit on the bike)
Has me thinking it's an issue with cyclinder 1 or 2.
More likely cyl 3 or 4 as you don't get smoke there.
Check which exhaust header doesn't heat up.
@froudy , yep I'm hoping it's just that :onya:
@Blubber ,I'll take a look at the intake air pressure sensor and the intake air temperature sensor.
Anyway to test these? Air temperature sensor with an ohm meter but unsure on the air pressure sensor :whatever:
Or could I disconnect them and the ECU set a default value for the 2 of them and see if it idles better.
@Andre all 4 headers got hot so all cyclinders are at least firing up.
Quote from: Suzuki boi on Thursday, 18 April 2019, 05:57 AM
@Blubber ,I'll take a look at the intake air pressure sensor and the intake air temperature sensor.
Anyway to test these? Air temperature sensor with an ohm meter but unsure on the air pressure sensor :whatever:
Or could I disconnect them and the ECU set a default value for the 2 of them and see if it idles better.
There a 2 air pressure sensors,
1 on the airbox
1 on the injectors rail
I think there is a test procedure mentioned in the manual but never needed it myself.
The manual is available as a download on ORG.
It won't run with the manifold pressure sensor disconnected, or at least it won't idle. It'd need enough throttle to switch to the open circuit map to run.
You can swap the MAP sensor (between the frame rails) with the ambient pressure sensor (RH side of the airbox under the side cover) as they are the same part number.
Quote from: Hooli on Friday, 19 April 2019, 03:15 AM
It won't run with the manifold pressure sensor disconnected, or at least it won't idle. It'd need enough throttle to switch to the open circuit map to run.
Sorry, but it will run with the manifold pressure sensor (IAP) disconnected, howbeit in Fail-Safe-Mode. It will idle just fine. See TB-Sync.
Quote from: Hooli on Friday, 19 April 2019, 03:15 AM
You can swap the MAP sensor (between the frame rails) with the ambient pressure sensor (RH side of the airbox under the side cover) as they are the same part number.
That's a good way to test it.
To me there is a difference between disconnecting and disconnecting.
The manual talks a disconnecting the hose...however: You can also disconnected the sensor from the loom.
Just throwing in another view.
Nope, it explicitly says to disconnect the coupler. Even shows it in the pic as #1.
Obviously for sync you need to take the hoses off in order to attach the sync device. But that's of no concern here.
:cheers:
I was thinking of disconnecting the vacuum pipe, they don't run if you do that but leave the electrics connected.
Quote from: Hooli on Friday, 19 April 2019, 07:03 AM
I was thinking of disconnecting the vacuum pipe, they don't run if you do that but leave the electrics connected.
I haven't read the whole thread which is probably a bad idea...But I assume here that we're talking about balancing the throttle bodies?
I unplug the electrical connection from the IAP sensor between the top frame rails and connect the Morgan Carbtune to the stubs on the throttle bodies...Idle set to 1100RPM...
Don't forget to plug it back in again after balancing because the engine runs really badly..Frightened me to death the one and only time I forgot to plug it back in again :imrgreen:
Also never try and start the bike before checking that the fuel feed from the tank to the throttle bodies is re connected. The pump just carries on trying to prime the system resulting in a large volume of petrol spraying all over the engine and anything else within a 1 metre radius of the bike :rofl2:
Froudy, I have read the whole thread as it developed but can't remember most of it.
The TB-sync was just a tangent :boogie2:
@Suzuki boi But back to the white smoke on the left exhaust (only!?). As was said before white smoke is from condensation and will go away when engine is heated up. If there is no white smoke on the right side then that indicates that there is not enough heat produced on cyl #3 and or #4. But you said that all headers heat up. Question: is there a different temperature on the headers? Laser thermometer (or a different degree of skin burns :devil: ) will tell you.
Thanks lads
Swapped the map sensor with the ambient temperature sensor and still the same.
Managed to get the bike to idle for awhile,be it having to constantly blip the throttle to stop it cutting out and the white smoke is fairly gone so must of been a build up of condensation.
I noticed it's constantly,yes constantly backfiring on when I turn the throttle a small bit(low revs,revmeter still not working so not sure of exact revs)
Tried sourcing the rev/odometer problem but no luck, all cables in good nick.
I notice that cyclinder 2 header doesn't get as hot as the other 3.
On idle I can't touch cyclinder 1,3 or 4 but can hold onto cyclinder 2,s header.
Swapped plugs around,swapped injectors around. Still issue with header happens .
Swapped ignition coil from 3 into 2 but still the header doesn't get as hot.
Wtf
Now I'm thinking low compression? No idea
swapping plugs, coils & injectors is good diagnosis work. What's left? only mechanical issue in cyl 2. I'd say probably valves, maybe a burnt exhaust valve.
Others with more knowledge than me will no doubt be able to diagnose more accurately.
@grog @seth @Blubber
Can it be false air drawn into nr 2?
Maybe a worn o-ring between the head and the rubber manifold , a.crack in the rubber manifold, nr2 out of sync / balance. One of the rubber hoses towards the MAP pressure sensor porous?
Valves can stick, close badly due to carbin built up but this engine isn't known to do so.
Also forgot to mention.
When I took the plug out of cyclinder 2 ,it looked fairly new,as in now soot or black on the tip.
I took the plug out of cyclinder 4 it had soot on it so was doing its job.
Also if I open the throttle header number 2 gets fairly hot,hot as in I can't touch it.
So seems to only get hot when revved but only warm when idling !
Also tried the bike without a coil in cyclinder 2 and bike doesn't seem to run any different.
Pull coil out of cyclinder 4 and bike won't even idle.
And doesn't seem to be any backfire when I hold the revs high :whatever:
Bike is really killing me at this stage.
Quote from: KiwiCol on Monday, 22 April 2019, 04:56 AM
swapping plugs, coils & injectors is good diagnosis work. What's left? only mechanical issue in cyl 2. I'd say probably valves, maybe a burnt exhaust valve.
Others with more knowledge than me will no doubt be able to diagnose more accurately.
@grog @seth @Blubber
Ye was really hoping it was just something as simple as an ignition issue but nope :whatever:
Quote from: Blubber on Monday, 22 April 2019, 05:04 AM
Can it be false air drawn into nr 2?
Maybe a worn o-ring between the head and the rubber manifold , a.crack in the rubber manifold, nr2 out of sync / balance. One of the rubber hoses towards the MAP pressure sensor porous?
Valves can stick, close badly due to carbin built up but this engine isn't known to do so.
Checked all hoses by the throttle body and they all seem ok :whatever:
Anyway to test if nr2 is out of sync?
Or to see if there's a crack by the manifold head?
Quote from: Suzuki boi on Monday, 22 April 2019, 05:18 AM
Ye was really hoping it was just something as simple as an ignition issue but nope :whatever:
Could still be an ignition issue.
May be a poor connection between spark plug cap and spark plug. Switch #2 and #3 spark plug cap and check temperatures again at idle.
To check for vacuum leaks ("crack in manifold") do the age-old test for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner (I used cigarette lighter gas) on suspected areas and see (in your case hear) if rpm picks up in idle.
To test for TB sync see the service manual starting at page 4-66 (can download it from the download section)
Quote from: Suzuki boi on Monday, 22 April 2019, 05:18 AM
Quote from: KiwiCol on Monday, 22 April 2019, 04:56 AM
swapping plugs, coils & injectors is good diagnosis work. What's left? only mechanical issue in cyl 2. I'd say probably valves, maybe a burnt exhaust valve.
Others with more knowledge than me will no doubt be able to diagnose more accurately.
@grog @seth @Blubber
Ye was really hoping it was just something as simple as an ignition issue but nope :whatever:
What about the lead itself? When you said about the colour of the plug, it sounds like it's just not firing. You have done everything else, what about the actual lead?
Quote from: Andre on Monday, 22 April 2019, 06:04 AM
Quote from: Suzuki boi on Monday, 22 April 2019, 05:18 AM
Ye was really hoping it was just something as simple as an ignition issue but nope :whatever:
Could still be an ignition issue.
May be a poor connection between spark plug cap and spark plug. Switch #2 and #3 spark plug cap and check temperatures again at idle.
To check for vacuum leaks ("crack in manifold") do the age-old test for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner (I used cigarette lighter gas) on suspected areas and see (in your case hear) if rpm picks up in idle.
To test for TB sync see the service manual starting at page 4-66 (can download it from the download section)
Swapped 2 and 3 and no difference.
Got the multimeter out and tested the coils with the leads and all reading 100%.
Checked the throttle body sync pdf and need a set of vacuum gauges. Will need to order some on Amazon so.
Wil get some more carb cleaner and spray it all over :boogie:.
One other thing I tried.
I disconnected the plug lead from cyclinder 1 and the bike didn't sound much different.
Plugged cyclinder 1 lead back and disconnected cyclinder 2,the same thing,bike sounded the same.
Now when I disconnected cyclinder 3 the bike would just about start but wouldn't idle
The same with cyclinder 4.
So to me there's an issue with cyclinder 1 and 2. Even tho cyclinder 1's header gets hot.
The only thing that has the 2 cyclinders connected in anyway is the throttle bodies.
So syncing could be the issue
Quote from: KiwiCol on Monday, 22 April 2019, 06:49 AM
Quote from: Suzuki boi on Monday, 22 April 2019, 05:18 AM
Quote from: KiwiCol on Monday, 22 April 2019, 04:56 AM
swapping plugs, coils & injectors is good diagnosis work. What's left? only mechanical issue in cyl 2. I'd say probably valves, maybe a burnt exhaust valve.
Others with more knowledge than me will no doubt be able to diagnose more accurately.
@grog @seth @Blubber
Ye was really hoping it was just something as simple as an ignition issue but nope :whatever:
What about the lead itself? When you said about the colour of the plug, it sounds like it's just not firing. You have done everything else, what about the actual lead?
Swapped the leads 2 and 3 around and made no difference :whatever:
Ok, no go there. Is there any power being supplied to coil 2? I know you swapped the coils & problem persists, so not the coil, but it could be the power supply to coil 2.
Would do the carb cleaner first as it is the easiest.
Sync tool is good to have anyway. Not sure if it is meaningful if 1 cyl. is not running correctly for other reasons than being out of sync.
Ok, you used a multimeter. But did you measure PEAK voltage (manual 7-22). Need an adapter for that. Costs dearly but can be made cheaply DIY.
@Suzuki boi When you do get some balancing guages use the Morgan Carbtune..They work a treat :onya:
https://www.carbtune.com/carbdtls.html
Not really wanting to get involved, but. Have you actually checked spark at all cylinders? HEI tester required. Have read thread but gets confusing.
Thanks for the help lads.
Haven't been near the bike in awhile.
Got a compression tester to rule out compression issues.
Checked all power supplies and tried carb cleaner and no luck.
Compression test showed
Cyclinder 1 : 160psi
Cyclinder 2: 160 psi
Cyclinder 3 : 165psi
Cyclinder 4: 165psi
So compression not an issue.
After I had a good roar and shouting some foul language.
I looked back the throttle body as the issue must be somewhere there.
Low and behold I must of mixed up the 2 pipes,the one from the throttle body to the map sensor and the other pipe that goes to the pairs system :jack:
Makes sense why only the 2 right cyclinders were getting hot ,because they were the only ones getting air flow :jack:
Sorry lads it was my absolute f**k up :frustrated: :frustrated:
Now I'm off to try fix this rev meter and odometer
Well fixed mate. Can remember the day i blocked off breather hose instead of PAIRS. I had a 2 stroke 14, never seen so much smoke.
Don't worry about it Suzuki boi, shit happens, we've all made stupid mistakes, except me :whistling:
We all get it wrong from time to time .
But good on you sticking at it and finding where you had gone wrong and fixing it .
Good luck with the clocks .
:onya:
Quote from: mjgt on Friday, 03 May 2019, 07:48 PM
Don't worry about it Suzuki boi, shit happens, we've all made stupid mistakes, except me :whistling:
And me..NOT :lol:
Tank refitted and went to start up...Forgot to reconnect the fuel pump hose...It makes one hell of a mess...Petrol everywhere :furious:
Glad you got it sorted
@Suzuki boi Good luck with the clocks :onya:
So after a few months off not being able to get near the bike .
I finally got the logbook and could finally test drive it.
No Speedo or rev meter as usual. Pulled the wiring harness apart and all cables are fine, continuity from the cables in the headlight to the ECU are fine so I'm lost,and thinking I need to try another set of clocks to see if it's a clock issue.
Damn this thing is fast! Last bike I owned was a deauville 650. So this is like going from a Micra to a Ferrari!
Shocks are f**ked,leaking oil and any little bump I go over ,the bike bounces up and down constantly for awhile!! Can these shocks be repaired or just replace?
Exhaust is leaking at collector box. Gonna put a bit of exhaust paste for now till I can get new gaskets.
One of the fork legs is leaking a little bit of oil.
One major thing while driving along.
Randomly as I'm driving the throttle will have no affect and the engine will start slowing down and the CHEC sign will come on.
I've managed to stop it by downshifting a gear or waiting for it to go away. Any ideas? I'm thinking obviously electrical connection so was gonna check all the earth connections.
And on low revs it's fairly stuttery and not smooth. But when I open the throttle feels good.
Had cleaned the fuel pump filter,new air filter,injectors cleaned. TPS was adjusted
Only thing I'm thinking of is the throttle cables may need to be adjusted.
Hey mate,
Barmy will be on here soon to tell you to run a few tanks of BP Ultimate in it, which is good advice.
When mine sits for a bit I run some injector cleaner through and/or bp ultimate along with a 100km plus cruise and it has healed the cut off symptoms you mentioned (when I first got the bike, before i did the fuel filter bypass mod). It might not work but it's a cheap first option.
Then I would consider doing the external filter bypass mod and get a cheap quantum fuel pump regardless. Turned my bike from a boggy, heavy lump to a torque machine, which was nice after 12 months of expensive misdiagnosis :facepalm:
Apologies, just read at the beginning of this post amd realised you may have replaced the fuel pump and filters a while ago :whatever:
regarding the clocks: while you're waiting for a fix, i would recommend getting a handlebar mount for your phone and trying one of the GPS speedometers apps from the iPhone or android app store. There pretty good, I've used them when I've played around with sprocket sizes in Luei of a Speedo healer. They're usually free.
Can PM you some info if you want
Quote from: Suzuki boi on Friday, 09 August 2019, 08:53 AM
So after a few months off not being able to get near the bike .
I finally got the logbook and could finally test drive it.
No Speedo or rev meter as usual. Pulled the wiring harness apart and all cables are fine, continuity from the cables in the headlight to the ECU are fine so I'm lost,and thinking I need to try another set of clocks to see if it's a clock issue.
Damn this thing is fast! Last bike I owned was a deauville 650. So this is like going from a Micra to a Ferrari!
Shocks are f**ked,leaking oil and any little bump I go over ,the bike bounces up and down constantly for awhile!! Can these shocks be repaired or just replace?
Exhaust is leaking at collector box. Gonna put a bit of exhaust paste for now till I can get new gaskets.
One of the fork legs is leaking a little bit of oil.
One major thing while driving along.
Randomly as I'm driving the throttle will have no affect and the engine will start slowing down and the CHEC sign will come on.
I've managed to stop it by downshifting a gear or waiting for it to go away. Any ideas? I'm thinking obviously electrical connection so was gonna check all the earth connections.
And on low revs it's fairly stuttery and not smooth. But when I open the throttle feels good.
Had cleaned the fuel pump filter,new air filter,injectors cleaned. TPS was adjusted
Only thing I'm thinking of is the throttle cables may need to be adjusted.
When the above comes on, it's usually the kill switch. Check if it's not loose or the internals are buggered / shorting to earth.
Yes, could be the kill switch. Also the side stand switch (also check the stand's springs).
After spending 2 days at this.
Bike was cutting out constantly when idling and would cut out when I touched the throttle.
Kept it idling as long as I could,tried revving it ,hoping maybe just a bit of water got in and need to be pushed out.nope
Took fuel pump apart again,stuck a different pump in,nope same thing.
Tried another fuel pump relay. Nope.
Plugs were all good.
All cylinders where firing so it wasnt like it was only running on 1,2 or 3 cylinders.
Took kill switch apart. Cleaned it,same with side stand switch . Nope
Tested the tip over sensor to see if it was dodgy,nope.
Was totally stumped.
Till I left the ignition on and bumped against the fuse box and heard a spark and then the fuel pump began priming.
After fiddling around I noticed it was the relay.
Held the relay down,fired her up and it revved and ran. Took my finger off boom it cut out.
Bit of wd40 in the relay and now she's purring like a kitten.
Ordered 2 new shocks (cheap hagon ones as funds are tight) last Monday and was told it would be another 2 weeks :evil:
Need it for commuting next Tuesday so I guess I'll be using a bike with shot shocks for a few days!!!
Tested my clocks on another gsx 1400. Yep it's the clocks that are screwed!!!
Rang the Suzuki dealer to get a quote for the PCB , €400 before vat......no thanks
Blessed I found a set of clocks on eBay and got them for €140. Casing are in bad nick ,but mine are fine so will just use mine. Hoping the clocks are here the beginning off next week.
It's late here think that's everything I did the past 2 days :facepalm:
@Suzuki boi Sounds like a bit of a nightmare time you've had but I'm so glad you kept going and are getting to the bottom of your bad running problems .
It just shows if you don't give up and work through it logically you get there.
It also give the rest of us an idea of where to look if a simular problem happens to our bikes.
Top work .
Well done .
:onya: :cheers:
New relay on order too?
@sethThanks mate, without your help and everyone else's ,it would still be a rust bucket in the garden !!!
Yep hopefully if someone's having issues I'd be able to help since everything has nearly gone wrong with this yoke!! :happy1:
@KiwiCol Not sure if I need to order a new relay.
After cleaning it out and after a spin the bike didn't cut out or splutter once.
I'm planning on taking it for an hour spin this week to see if it will last my commute .
If it lasts the hour then happy days!!
(https://i.ibb.co/5MJtdc0/IMG-20190828-183237.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5MJtdc0) (https://i.ibb.co/v435n80/IMG-20190828-183231.jpg) (https://ibb.co/v435n80) (https://i.ibb.co/1Js34Yf/IMG-20190828-183149.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1Js34Yf) (https://i.ibb.co/jhFcKtJ/IMG-20190828-183143.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jhFcKtJ) (https://i.ibb.co/YbJNtQJ/IMG-20190828-183139.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YbJNtQJ)
That's how she looks now.
Cosmetically not great but feck it for now
I noticed when I had the fuel tank off after fiddling with the fuel pump for 20minutes,lifted the tank and yes petrol everywhere.
Any ideas on a temporary fix for this,I'm guessing the gasket is crap and not sealing properly
Where exactly is the leak coming from, the pump gasket or the connector? If it's the connector make sure it clicks into the lock and if its the pump seal make sure the surfaces are clean and smear a thin coat of silicone sealant before refitting remembering to tighten all the screws diagonally in sequence till its tight.
Quote from: mjgt on Thursday, 29 August 2019, 06:06 PM
Where exactly is the leak coming from, the pump gasket or the connector? If it's the connector make sure it clicks into the lock and if its the pump seal make sure the surfaces are clean and smear a thin coat of silicone sealant before refitting remembering to tighten all the screws diagonally in sequence till its tight.
Sorry should been clearer.
It's coming out of where you put petrol in,that cap.
So it's not sealing properly even when I push down and hear a click.
Check the seal around the cap if it's damaged I might have a spare I can send you .
Also check the overflow/breather pipe as if that's blocked it let the area around the cap seal collect fuel on fill ups too .
Good luck as you've done so much work already.
:cheers:
If it's the fuel cap area, should be able to be fixed without too much trouble. Worst case scenario, you bung an aftermarket fuel cap on. Few guys have done it, think Notty did his from memory, can't recall the brand at the mo.
:notworthy:
@seth Thanks lad. I'll check the seal sometime tomorrow. I've duct tape over the cap for now tho. God knows how much water has gotten in over the past year!!!
@KiwiCol It's a new fuel cap,the original one was rusted solid and couldn't get off the original tank.
Just some cheap Chinese made crap by the looks off it :thumbs_down:
So today was gonna bring it for an hour spin up to where I'll be commuting on it next week.
But nope the gods had other plans.
The chain looked a bit loose so decided I'll have a quick nosey at it. Chain was about 40-45mm free play. So needed to be tightened.
But of course the adjuster bolt on one side would have to be rusted solid and not move at all.
The other side moves freely tho.
So adjusted one side to be right at about 20-25mm and had to wedge 2 washers between the bolt and the bracket of the rear axle to keep the 2 sides aligned .
So will eventually need to bring it to someone to either drill or do something to get that bolt out and fit a new one
Got a spin on it in the end tho.
I may have warped front discs now aswell. :doh:
I'd be parking this bike up until you sort out all those horrible bits you've mentioned so far Boi :stir: :stir: :stir: :stir:
Warped discs? More likely stuck / sticky pistons. Have you done an overhaul on the calipers? or at least removed & cleaned / freed them up? The warped disc scenario is actually a very rare thing, usually something else which gives a pulsing sensation to braking. Just sayin . . .
@GSXKING Ye the first plan with this bike was to get it riding and looking 100% and use it as a weekend toy maybe.
But now I need something to commute in.
Another car would make me bankrupt in a week so the only logically thing to do is use the 14.
I have till Tuesday to iron out any bad points .
Tho with Irish weather it will rain everyday to Tuesday :doh:
@KiwiCol Yep I overhauled the front and rear brake calipers,new seals the whole lot. Wheels moving freely free rolling so pistons aren't sticking. Could water in the brake fluid cause this maybe?
It was only something I noticed but didn't get time to check it out. Just had a familiar feel to warped discs that I had on previous bikes. Hopefully it's something small.
Water in the fluid?, I'd doubt that would give symptoms of warped discs, other nasty things, but not pulsing at low temp reached on test rides.
Just wondered, have you had the disc off the rim? I know it has to be meticulously clean where they seat. Even differing paint / powdercoating thickness will affect how they run, which is why that area is best left as bare metal.
Stuck bobbins would also give pulsing, are they all free? They should all be able to turn in place.
Quote from: KiwiCol on Saturday, 31 August 2019, 04:13 AM
Water in the fluid?, I'd doubt that would give symptoms of warped discs, other nasty things, but not pulsing at low temp reached on test rides.
Just wondered, have you had the disc off the rim? I know it has to be meticulously clean where they seat. Even differing paint / powdercoating thickness will affect how they run, which is why that area is best left as bare metal.
Stuck bobbins would also give pulsing, are they all free? They should all be able to turn in place.
I had the discs of the rim before yes. I'll check that first if any dust or anything got in between the rim and disc. Good thinking kiwicol.
I don't think there's bobbins on this bike :whatever:
One bit of good news tho. New clocks arrived :boogie: :boogie: :boogie:
Haven't actually tested the Speedo yet but the odometer , rev counter and buttons work so I'm delighted as is :smitten:
(https://i.ibb.co/GW1FNcQ/IMG-20190904-190836.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GW1FNcQ) (https://i.ibb.co/jfMPrLk/IMG-20190904-172355.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jfMPrLk)
There's over 90k on these clocks but doesn't bother me, if the previous owner was correct this bike has less then half that.
But I doubt I'm gonna ever sell this bike so.
Oh and the last day I commuted on the bike,just as I started ,I noticed white smoke coming from the collector box,first thought was oil leak. Yep there's an ever so slight oil leak coming from where the oil cooler attaches to the engine,tried tightening the bolts,they were right already. Said feck it need to go so when I arrived I checked and couldn't see any more drops. Looks like I'm gonna have to dump the oil again and take that oil cooler off and stick a new seal on it :jack:
I'm pretty sure you can disconnect the cooler without dropping the oil. You'll just need to catch the oil in the actual cooler when you do so.
Your correct Hooli
When I changed my cooler I seem to remember there was about .7 of a litre in the old cooler.
I didn't drop the engine oil to replace the cooler.
And noooo I didn't re use the oil from the cooler !
Quote from: Speedy1959 on Thursday, 05 September 2019, 11:32 PM
Your correct Hooli
When I changed my cooler I seem to remember there was about .7 of a litre in the old cooler.
I didn't drop the engine oil to replace the cooler.
And noooo I didn't re use the oil from the cooler !
I would of, it was in there a few minutes ago.
Quote from: KiwiCol on Friday, 06 September 2019, 03:24 AM
Quote from: Speedy1959 on Thursday, 05 September 2019, 11:32 PM
Your correct Hooli
When I changed my cooler I seem to remember there was about .7 of a litre in the old cooler.
I didn't drop the engine oil to replace the cooler.
And noooo I didn't re use the oil from the cooler !
I would of, it was in there a few minutes ago.
Me too. As I'd have made sure the outside of the engine & pipe work was clean as it drained into a clean container.
As long as an oil change is not due I would reuse as well.
I wouldn't - am I right that if the bike has never run hot then the oil in the cooler could be really very old oil? :bugga:
I'm pretty sure the cooler isn't stat controlled. Put your hand on it within mins of starting the bike & it's warm. Plus if it had a 'stat the handbook wouldn't say cover half it when riding in cold weather. The oil in there won't be any older than the rest of the engine.
Besides oil is millions of years old when they dig it up...
Quote from: Hooli on Friday, 06 September 2019, 07:15 AM
I'm pretty sure the cooler isn't stat controlled.
That's why I am still thinking about modding a stat in. Will soon become an issue for me again brrrr :thumbs_down: But other things have higher priority. Maybe next year. :frustrated: If it's cold I her away from the road.
Thanks lads for the tip on not needing to drop all the oil.
Had an hour to kill this evening so i said I'd sort the oil cooler out.
Said I'd change the 2 sides of the oil cooler pipes as if one is leaking the other is bound to follow suit soon enough.
Took out the bottom of the oil cooler pipes.
Took out the old seals.
Got my box of random rubber seals and found one I thought looked the right size.
Put it on,smeared a bit of oil on the seal.
Put all together.
Filled oil again.
Started up ,oil pouring out of both sides :doh:
Took apart again and went with a seal one size up.
Put together and now no leaks :onya:
I noticed the brakes kind of dragging while I pushed the bike,as kiwi suggested may be an issue with the calipers rather then the discs.
Banged the 2 calipers and pumped the brakes a few times, now I didn't feel any drag. Will know if thats sorted out come Monday morning.
Typical, started it up this morning to heat up and boom hit with a smell of burning oil.
Checked underneath and now leaking again :doh:
I looked at the exact size of the original seal and it was diameter 2.4mm internal diameter 14.8mm
The one I'm pretty sure I put on was 16mm internal diameter,unsure what the width was.
Probably why the 2 deals are leaking.
Now to find 2 o rings the exact size!!
Was raging like a bull when I seen it this morning,had to drive it on tho.
I'm sure the oilcooler seals are Suzuki size and you'll need yo get them from a Suzuki dealer I'm afraid .
:cheers:
Quote from: seth on Tuesday, 10 September 2019, 04:28 AM
I'm sure the oilcooler seals are Suzuki size and you'll need yo get them from a Suzuki dealer I'm afraid .
:cheers:
I'd agree with
@seth, also I believe that the material the seals are made from has been chosen to resist the heat/oil residue etc generated in normal use.
I'd pop into a hydraulics place like Pirtek with an old one to match. I bet they'd have something that'd do the job. You just need the right diameter & same or slightly greater thickness.
If you're talking about the ones the low end of the oil line uses to bolt up to the motor they are a couple of $'s / £1 from Suzuki. I change one every time I do an oil change. Can't be arsed reusing them.
(I pull the oil line off to remove the filter,
It's worth it to have the best exhaust)
Thanks
@Tony Nitrous Picked up 4(2 to keep spare) for 6€ here :onya:
But before I picked them up the actually pipe was covered in oil :frustrated:
So the pipe was f**ked.
And was leaking alot more then before.
Of course there's no parts for this bike on this planet so needed a fix.
Jubilee clips.
Saw no leaks .
Will know in the morning as the oil comes out wayyyy more on first start up( why's that? )
(https://i.ibb.co/jrnQL00/IMG-20190914-183057.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jrnQL00) (https://i.ibb.co/8cnDwr9/IMG-20190912-193425.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8cnDwr9)
Any place that fixes hydraulics can fix this. Try https://www.pirtek.ie/ (https://www.pirtek.ie/)
You will then need O-rings (part# 09280-12012) where it attaches to the oil cooler. They are different than those you replaced on the engine side.
Aye Pirtek replaced the flexi sections on my oil cooler pipes.
The reason it leaks most on the first start is the oil is thicker so the pressure is higher, as the engine warms the oil pressure drops a bit.
Think I sorted the oil leak.
Think it was the oil filter causing problems.
So stuck a new filter on there this evening.
Will check in the morning if its 100% sorted.
@KiwiCol seems you could be right about the bobbins being the issue with the front brake.
All of mine aren't moving.
So need to pick up some brake cleaner and get loosening
Got to freeing the bobbins.
Tho it bucketing rain here so not gonna test drive it yet. Hopefully fixes the brakes.
Went to adjust the front forks as it seems off.
I was right , the front preload wasn't equal.
Put them both to 4 rings as per MCN setting.
Typical I can't adjust the front compression or rebound as the screw don't want to budge!!!
Expecting the rear shocks later today or tomorrow so attempted to see if I could loosen the bolts holding the old ones in place.
Nope the right hand side Allen key rounded of straight away. :thumbs_down: :thumbs_down:
So shocks came yesterday and just finished sticking the rear shocks on. One side didn't want to come off. Old shocks were totally knackered.
(https://i.ibb.co/tJThLzV/IMG-20190925-214144.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tJThLzV) (https://i.ibb.co/jM9nnZS/IMG-20190925-200552.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jM9nnZS) (https://i.ibb.co/bQw3rbh/IMG-20190925-200144.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bQw3rbh)
Sorry photos are s**t ,I was too tired to take better ones. And I know the rust and dirt is horrible,that's on the to do list
Fixed up the chain while I was at it.
I noticed a wobble on the handlebars while I was riding the past few days. Thought it could just be tyre pressure or uneven wear on the tyre.
Nope the head bearings were very loose.
I mean when I felt for play while holding the stanchions it was big play!! Tightened it as much as I could.
Bike feels like its really holding to the ground. Steering is alot harder now and will take awhile getting used to,must be from the bearings being so loose to tight now.
And the rear shocks,by God it's great only feeling a bump once rather then 10 times after.
That was only after about 15 minutes test ride.
Will know properly after my hour ride in the morning.
Keep at it mate, wish i was closer to help. Yore doing a great job. Rip those head bearings out, replace i reckon.
I'd drop the headstock & have a look as a minimum. Everytime I've changed them on a 14 the bottom one has been solid rust long before they became loose.
@grog thanks lad. Slowly but surely she's getting to brand new state.
@Hooli ye I tightened the head bearing up and it was too tight,I loosened it up a bit but now wants to shake a little bit. I can definitely feel a notch in the middle and to the right
So I've ordered the head bearings and front and rear wheel bearings. Hopefully here by the end of the week.
Using it everyday and love the bike itself. Torque is Amazing.
I have another issue to trace now. Starting can be an issue.
Most mornings when I go to start for the first time. It won't start and makes a bang noise.
Then the needles on the cluster reset and do there sweep again and the clock itself resets everytime this happens.
Battery connections are all fine.
Will need to trace wiring. Could still be the indicator relay causing these issues.
One thing I sorted was the leaky fork leg.
I asked about the copper washer in the other thread.
Took the fork off and cleaned and sorted the washer on the bolt. No leak the past 2 days
Clocks resetting like that is typical of a dying battery. I can't recall if you've replaced it, but I'd check the earths too as it's been sat around corroding.
@Hooli unfortunately it is a new battery and all earth's and connections are tight :cry2:
So before the steering was shaking and felt off so last week I decided to change the steering head bearings.
The top bearing seemed ok,still greased up, not to many marks on the outer race.
(https://i.ibb.co/26pKxKZ/IMG-20191006-120555.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QcxmLmD)
(https://i.ibb.co/PzQmJKq/IMG-20191006-115505.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yBSfKtH)
(https://i.ibb.co/p02VSN4/IMG-20191006-114356.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BzLW9vT)
But the bottom outer race,by God that was horrible
(https://i.ibb.co/xGzZ57J/IMG-20191019-214851.jpg) (https://ibb.co/q9m61rk)
(https://i.ibb.co/tJT2kvk/IMG-20191019-214845.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nLN1ZYZ)
(https://i.ibb.co/FWJZ2Wm/IMG-20191006-115454.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MhpwrhZ)
(https://i.ibb.co/FHkMnrF/IMG-20191006-114414.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3R5qk3n)
(https://i.ibb.co/HHXQ32J/IMG-20191006-114349.jpg) (https://ibb.co/crxdVvm)
Bone dry
Dusty as hell.
I managed to get the top outer race out but couldnt get the bottom one out,I didn't have anything with a bend at the bottom to knock it out so unfortunately I had to just clean it up and stick alot of grease over it.
But today I managed to get it out and fitted 2 new tapered bearings
Also Got to fit 2 new bearings for the front wheel.
I had bought a front wheel and rear wheel koyo kit on eBay a few weeks ago and only noticed now that it was missing one of the front wheel bearings :angry:
So had to go to a local spot and pick a new one up.
Unfortunately changing these hasn't fixed the shaking when braking :doh:
I noticed the front wheel sticks while moving the front wheel so I have a feeling the pistons are sticking or something is up with the caliper.
As far as I remember there's no sliding pin on these calipers. So I've a feeling it's the pistons.
Ouch..Those head bearings were well past their sell by date :facepalm:
The upper bearing is easy to remove, but the lower one is a pain in the arse if you dont have the correct tool for the job..I struggle every time and end up slitting it with a Dremel and bashing it out.
You can buy caliper rebuild kits from Powerhouse.
Assuming that you still have the 6 pot calipers fitted then this is the kit you'll need....
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GSX-1400-front-brake-caliper-seal-rebuild-kit-K1-K2-K3-2001-2002-2003/150958308691?fits=UKM_Make%3ASuzuki&hash=item2325d0fd53:g:FK8AAOSwUKxYiznQ
I fitted Tockico 4 pot calipers to my bike for ease of maintenance. The 6 pots don't like the salt we put on our roads in the UK over winter, and if not regularly cleaned the pistons will seize causing all sorts of nasty problems.
@froudy Ye they were well past there date!!
I wouldn't be surprised if they were the originals from the Suzuki factory !!!
I had rebuild the 3 calipers earlier this year.
New pistons seals, the whole lot,just like the link you put up.
To me they seemed like brand new. Unless I messed one up I don't know.
Anyhow I'll have to take the calipers off and have nosey in at some stage.
I can't see these wavy discs being warped unless it had been through some intense heat before I got my hands on it!
Have a read here..It might help...
http://blackshadow-uk.co.uk/Fitting.html
Typical 14 that, the bottom bearing rusts & rots while the top one is fine. My suspicion is condensation in the frame tubes from the heat of the engine causes moisture that runs down & sits on the bearing. I always put too much grease on the replacements, so there is a barrier above the bearing to keep the water off them. Then regrease it every year or two.
As for shakey brakes, check the bobbins the disc should float on. They seize up & can make the disc slightly warped causing what you've found. Freeing the bobbins allows the disc to return to flat. Just soak the in brake cleaner & spin them slightly, a bolt done up through them gives more grip if needed.
If the discs have been off, it might be worth removing them again & making sure the mating faces are smooth & clean too.
So lads the bike has struggled to start in the mornings. Have had to use my booster pack to jump start it.
And I've mentioned in the thread it takes a few presses of the starter button to get her to start,and everytime I hit the button first time the clocks and dials would reset and make a band noise.
This noise never happens when I use the booster pack.
Now I went out to test the battery and before I started it voltage was at 12v.
With the bike running I'm only getting 12.45-12.5 v
Before I thought it was the battery (only bought last June and used for the past 2 months).
But now with it running and I'm not getting 14volts.im thinking now it's the stator or regulator?
Any thoughts ?
I would of thought with even a bad battery with the engine running it would still be getting 14volts or am I thinking wrong?
I put on a pair of Oxford heated grips and I see they don't get overly hot and thinking it's related to this battery/voltage issue
Was it starting ok before fitting the heated grips? The symptoms you describe indicate a flat or tired battery (for the starting) and a charging issue with only getting 12.5v running.
Incidently, while it's running, are the grips turned on? if so, try turning them off & see what voltage you get at the battery whilst idling. If it comes up, the issue in the grips.
I've not got them fitted, so only go on what you describe, the 14 doesn't have a lot of power left over to run accessories, but many have these grips fitted without issue, maybe your installation isn't the same?
Quote from: KiwiCol on Saturday, 02 November 2019, 01:58 AM
Was it starting ok before fitting the heated grips? The symptoms you describe indicate a flat or tired battery (for the starting) and a charging issue with only getting 12.5v running.
Incidently, while it's running, are the grips turned on? if so, try turning them off & see what voltage you get at the battery whilst idling. If it comes up, the issue in the grips.
I've not got them fitted, so only go on what you describe, the 14 doesn't have a lot of power left over to run accessories, but many have these grips fitted without issue, maybe your installation isn't the same?
Ye before the grips were put on the battery wasn't great anyway
So nothing to do with the grips.
Ye the next port of call is to test the stator.
Hoping it's not that as it seems a pain in the ass to remove!!
Ok so I've done a few tests on the stator.
Resistance between each coil is 0.9ohms.
No continuity between ground and any cable so that's all good.
But at about 5k revs I'm only getting about 42-45volts at each cable.
Does this mean the stator is fried?
Also now when I tested after putting everything back together.
Voltage is at 13.12v . When I rev the bike to 5k rpm it actually drops to 12.8v
Only time I've seen voltages drop with revs are raised is when a diode has failed in the reg/rec.
@Hooli Removed the rectifier .
Tested with the multimeter and readings all perfect according to Haynes manual.
Stumped now.
Unless that voltage decrease in the stator is the cause. But that wouldn't explain why the voltage drops when the rpm goes up.
I'm on my third stator, they do fail. I've had one burn out & two where the wires to the stator went brittle & snapped inside the side cover.
I assume you've done all these checks with the bike basicly cold? I ask as I once had a diode pack fail when hot on a car, it'd charge for 10miles or so & then the voltages dropped... That took some finding.
HEllo., Just had my stator rewound , at REXS speedshop. he told me what to check and readings i should be getting . i was not getting anything from any of the three wires ( think same as Hooli, said brittle cables). my reg /rec checked out good, just fitted it ALL GOOD NOW, if in doubt give him a ring , very helpfull man
Stator is a very easy job to change..half hour tops. Make sure to use thread lock on the retaining bolts when refitting as without it they can work loose and cause major damage.
If you do need a new stator try Electrexworld.
@Hooli Yep all tests done with bike parked up for a day.
I've been reading a thread of snapeys and it seems he had the same problem as mine, rectifier all good but voltage only 45volts from stator.
Looks like he changed the stator and all good.
@froudy would it be an easy job? Looking in the manual it seems like I need a few "extra" tools to actually get it out. Would basic tools and sockets get it out or do I need some extra stuff?
Also reading snapeys thread it seems the aftermarket stators don't come with a rubber mould that's needed. Don't think I'd have any idea on how to fabricate something like myself.
Checked that electro site and they seem to not have a stator for the gsx 1400 only a rectifier.
So I may have to settle for a 2nd hand original one :whatever:
It's an easy job, just remember to turn the starter idler cog a bit so it pops in place when you put it all back, oh & don't have your fingers under the cover when the magnets grab it. You just need allen drivers to do it, no special tools.
I got my stator rewound (can't remember where sorry, but I googled it & picked the cheapest) and it came with the plastic moulded bit fitted.
So I rang around for a stator for the 14 and was told that only could get one straight from Suzuki, that there was no after market one available.
But was told that the Suzuki supplier said he's only ever had to sell 1 stator, and that they never go. And was told to change the rectifier .
So part arrived today and changed it but no real change in voltage.
Changing the rectifier I thought should of sorted the voltage dropping at higher revs.
It's a pain in the ass because now I cant use my new heated grips because it reads the voltage as too low when I turn it on and then they don't work. !
Oh and also pain in the whole having to jump start it every morning
I've had mine rewound a couple of times, I can't think who by though.
Quote from: Suzuki boi on Wednesday, 20 November 2019, 06:00 AM
So I rang around for a stator for the 14 and was told that only could get one straight from Suzuki, that there was no after market one available.
But was told that the Suzuki supplier said he's only ever had to sell 1 stator, and that they never go. And was told to change the rectifier .
So part arrived today and changed it but no real change in voltage.
Changing the rectifier I thought should of sorted the voltage dropping at higher revs.
It's a pain in the ass because now I cant use my new heated grips because it reads the voltage as too low when I turn it on and then they don't work. !
http://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=267.0
Without a decent multimeter and some good electrical knowledge changing parts are about the best that can be done until it works, from my experience in the UK going back a long time it can be connections in those connector blocks caused by corrosion.
From memory with the bike idling you should get 60v AC between any of the yellow wires from the stator to test it.
Manual states "More than 60 V at 5 000 r/min (When engine is cold)"
I get about 80-90 V.
Quote from: Suzuki boi on Wednesday, 20 November 2019, 06:00 AM
So I rang around for a stator for the 14 and was told that only could get one straight from Suzuki, that there was no after market one available.
But was told that the Suzuki supplier said he's only ever had to sell 1 stator, and that they never go. And was told to change the rectifier .
They don't sell them because people have them rewound, get an aftermarket, or replace with a used one.
Quote from: Irish in Oz on Wednesday, 20 November 2019, 08:59 AM
from my experience in the UK going back a long time it can be connections in those connector blocks caused by corrosion.
Yes, connectors and wiring can also go bad.
Another cause for failing generators can be too much load. http://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=432.0 (http://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=432.0)
Quote from: Andre on Wednesday, 20 November 2019, 02:31 PM
Manual states "More than 60 V at 5 000 r/min (When engine is cold)"
I get about 80-90 V.
Ta, I was too lazy to check.
Another poxy post in this million posts thread!!
Quick one .
What idle speed do you get on cold mornings?
Mine starts at over 2k revs for a little bit then to about 1.6k revs for another bit then down to 1-1.1k revs.
I'm more concerned with the 2k+ at the beginning
Others might know more but as your bike is kept outdoor it might just be colder than normal making the initial tick overvhigher than usual.
Hopefully it's nothing major
:cheers:
Thanks
@seth I had just read about other people only being at 1.6k revs and thought ah f**k ,is there now something else to be fixed!
Have done about 7k kilometers since September and changing the oil and filter this weekend . Bit long overdue but haven't been able to do it before due to life getting in the way :lol:.
Manual page 4-65:
QuoteFast idle rpm
(Standard) : 1 500 – 1 700 rpm/Cold engine
(Maximum) : 2 000 rpm/Cold engine
Idle rpm: 1 100 ± 100 rpm/Warmed engine
Quote from: Andre on Saturday, 07 December 2019, 05:54 AM
Manual page 4-65:
QuoteFast idle rpm
(Standard) : 1 500 – 1 700 rpm/Cold engine
(Maximum) : 2 000 rpm/Cold engine
Idle rpm: 1 100 ± 100 rpm/Warmed engine
Thanks
@Andre I had a look at the manual online and Haynes manual I have here. I couldn't find figures!! I must be getting bind.
Should I be concerned about mine being a bit over the 2k rpm?
I wouldn't worry about it.
I agree. Mine always used to start at quite high revs (around the 1800 mark) and then come down to around the 1100 mark. That it came down to the 110 mark - which is where it should be - was always (to my mind) how it should be, let it do its own thing for how it gets there, yours you say gets to 1100 eventually - well that's good enough for me, I wouldn't worry about higher revs at cold, shows the cold chokes are doing their thing ok.
Mine is the same. Always Starts high in the morning (even in a warm garage) and settles to 1100.
So don't worry Sb, it's all good :onya:
Mine's the same, hits over 2k for a few secs if it's near freezing point.
Then drops onto 2 or 3 pots for 3/400yrds as I ride off... I really should solve that one day.
Mine also a bit higher in Winter not so much Summer. Strangely, when last battery failed, started bike, big back fire and no fast idle. Confused ECU my only thought.
Quote from: grog on Saturday, 07 December 2019, 07:07 PM
Mine also a bit higher in Winter not so much Summer. Strangely, when last battery failed, started bike, big back fire and no fast idle. Confused ECU my only thought.
Confused ECU makes sense, as it uses voltages from the TPS & SPS to monitor the fast idle position. Low voltages in the system will give the ECU false readings from them causing it to set the fast idle wrong, as that's how it knows where the secondary throttle motor is positioned (it turns one way for fast idle, t'other for opening the secondary throttles).
Mine doesn't work from the day I bought the bike. When I turn ignition on STV starts moving to closed position and then sudenly turns back to open position. Actuator is ok, no need for glueing and no wires damaged.
Quote from: mlivkovich on Sunday, 08 December 2019, 05:17 AM
Mine doesn't work from the day I bought the bike. When I turn ignition on STV starts moving to closed position and then sudenly turns back to open position. Actuator is ok, no need for glueing and no wires damaged.
It should move like that, it travels it's full movement & back as part of the power-on checks.
I'd suggest checking the TPS & SPS settings, as described somewhere in the technical tips bit of this forum. If they are too far out of adjustment then the fast idle can either be very high or not work. I wouldn't turn the mechanical adjuster screw, as if the sensors are that far out then the secondary throttles won't be working correctly either (even if you've not noticed when riding).
The procedure outlined in the manual on page 4-65 works well for fast idle check and adjust.
I tried adjustig it as described in manual and still no fast idle after that. Tps is set at 1.1kohm, can't remember other values for sensors but it was within specs. :whatever:
Quote from: mlivkovich on Sunday, 08 December 2019, 06:18 AM
I tried adjustig it as described in manual and still no fast idle after that. Tps is set at 1.1kohm, can't remember other values for sensors but it was within specs. :whatever:
I have had similar problems.. TPS and stps set to perfection, could see the STPS motor move and the secondary butterfly valves move... Just The fast idle bit would not work.
In my case: the small "follower wheel" was dislocated from the fast idle cam.
Took me some time to find that one.
Sweet lads I won't worry about the cold start idling
Here's one that will give you a good laugh
Gave the bike an oil and filter change today.
And noticed when I started it up smoke blowing out by the rear wheel, thought there shouldn't be any smoke there.
Ran my hand by the muffler and felt air coming out , thought ah must be just a small hole.
Nope it's a huge hole, looks like it blew open from the inside.
I was wondering for the week why I was hearing popping during the week.
(https://i.ibb.co/TgKjrhg/IMG-20191209-182602.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2k8V5Kk)
(https://i.ibb.co/Rv2W7sF/IMG-20191209-182545.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8KMVXfC)
Sorry pics are rubbish it was late and I wasn't going to pull it apart as I need to use it Tomo.
Any suggestions on replacements?
Can't see it being repairable
That looks a little close to the shock nut, which is what appears to have caused the damage. I'd turn the bolt around in the bottom of the shock & see if it gives enough clearance before putting new cans on.
I agree with Andy. The can on the left gets real close even as standard on the rear which nut/ bolt fir which the nut should be on the inside.
Quote from: Suzuki boi on Tuesday, 02 April 2019, 06:13 AM
Found out what was shortening .
The live + cable that is on the base of the fuel pump housing ,was shortening on the base.
It was making contact with the base.
Insulating tape stopped the fuse blowing and the pump now primes :boogie:
Doesn't start still,something for me to mess with another day.
€50 gone on nothing :doh:
And all it was was a cable with no insulation :jack:
This sounds very similar to the problem I'm having which started when the fuel cross-over pipe started leaking and petrol dripped overnight down through the wiring harness :facepalm:
After drying everything out and fixing the leak the CHEC light comes on and the fuel pump relay just clicks. I checked the resistance across the two leads to the fuel pump with it unplugged from the main harness. I'm get zero ohms reading which doesn't sound right. Do you or anyone on the forum know what sort of resistance reading I should get? I'm also wondering if the relay will need replacing or did yours still work after fixing the short? Thanks for any advice or help you can give.
@dennisgsy I checked a functioning fuel pump and got 20 Ohm.
To check the pump, give it 12 volt straight. Another way to do it: See service manual page 4-50
The relay clicks, which is a good sign. To check fuel pump relay see service manual page 4-51
Thanks for your feedback.
Today I removed the fuel tank, took out the fuel pump and the relay, which I took to a local auto-electrical service garage. He checked the resistance across the fuel pump leads and it read 0 ohms on a 20K ohms metre setting, the same as I was getting. He thought this was normal and proceeded to test the pump with a battery and it spun up normally. The next test was to use the relay, as if in circuit, and the relay activated the pump as it should.
When I refitted it to the bike I still get problems. The neutral light dims, and flickers, the fuel pump relay is constantly clicking, and when I hit the starter button there's another clicking sound in the area around the injectors. The battery voltage was charged to +13v but it maybe be close to end of life.
So just to recap, the problems started when the fuel cross-over pipe leaked at the fitting near the rear of the fuel tank. Petrol dripped slowly overnight into the wiring harness in the area below the leak. :cry2: The first thing I did with the fuel tank lifted was to unplug all the connectors between the injectors and in front of the battery. Then I used an air-line to dry everything out as best I could. I slackened off the left-hand engine casing to make sure there was no trapped fuel which could have run down the wiring harness. Only a few drips of oil came out so I tightened the engine casing back up. With everything reconnected there is no F1 error and therefore no error code to investigate.
If you or anyone has any suggestions on how to check the electrics and pinpoint the problem I'd be very grateful :grin:
I can video the symptoms tomorrow.
Quote from: dennisgsy on Tuesday, 17 March 2020, 06:29 AM
Thanks for your feedback.
Today I removed the fuel tank, took out the fuel pump and the relay, which I took to a local auto-electrical service garage. He checked the resistance across the fuel pump leads and it read 0 ohms on a 20K ohms metre setting, the same as I was getting. He thought this was normal and proceeded to test the pump with a battery and it spun up normally. The next test was to use the relay, as if in circuit, and the relay activated the pump as it should.
When I refitted it to the bike I still get problems. The neutral light dims, and flickers, the fuel pump relay is constantly clicking, and when I hit the starter button there's another clicking sound in the area around the injectors. The battery voltage was charged to +13v but it maybe be close to end of life.
So just to recap, the problems started when the fuel cross-over pipe leaked at the fitting near the rear of the fuel tank. Petrol dripped slowly overnight into the wiring harness in the area below the leak. :cry2: The first thing I did with the fuel tank lifted was to unplug all the connectors between the injectors and in front of the battery. Then I used an air-line to dry everything out as best I could. I slackened off the left-hand engine casing to make sure there was no trapped fuel which could have run down the wiring harness. Only a few drips of oil came out so I tightened the engine casing back up. With everything reconnected there is no F1 error and therefore no error code to investigate.
If you or anyone has any suggestions on how to check the electrics and pinpoint the problem I'd be very grateful :grin:
I can video the symptoms tomorrow.
To me it sounds possibly like either a battery issue (try leaving your multi meter connected to the battery when pressing the start button and see what the meter drops to) or possibly an earth problem (trace the earth lead from the battery to the other end and make sure the contact is clean & secure) for a start, best to check the easy possibilities before delving deeper
Cheers
Pete
From memory the earth from the battery goes to a bolt on top of the gearbox on the same side of the bike.
As Hooli and Will say. There is also a branch-off of the large cable close to the battery. Easy to see as there is a connector. Into that wire other earth wires (over a dozen) from various places are spliced in. Four of them come from the ECU (I know because one of them was broken on my 14). The connector is a weak spot and deserves periodic attention. I got rid of the connector and replaced the wire with a thicker one. Also replaced the thick cable to the gearbox with a larger one.
First (and easiest) thing first though: Check the battery or have it checked.
I agree with Andre re checking the battery.
An easy way to see if it's that, is to just hook up jumper cables to it (as if it were a flat battery) from your car or other & have a crack at starting it then. If she fires up, bingo, it's your battery. If it's the same, it's not the battery.
Thanks for all your suggestions and contributions. I was convinced the battery was in good condition as it was reading more than 13V however I connected the battery from my other bike and it turned over. Evidently the old battery wasn't supplying sufficient amperage under load. Feeling relieved and a bit embarrassed not to have done this rookie test before. The morale is to double check everything and assume nothing :embarrassed: :cheers:
All sorted - all good :onya:
Howdy lads and lassies.
Haven't been on this forum in awhile.
Mr.Corona has been a pain in the nut sack.
Especially with all the kids having no school!!.
Managed to get a job that can be done from home so not all bad!
Anyway the gsx1400 is still going strong. I've had no funds to repair the alternator issue so that's still present.
Tho I noticed a few months ago the brand new forks I put on last summer are knackered already. Absolute s**t quality.
(https://i.ibb.co/Jt1s63k/IMG-20200504-183616.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RbFDrjH)
The exhaust issue has to be because the collector box part that fixes to the bike has just vanished.
So need a new one of them. Might I add,the collector box was only fitted last summer aswell!
Sorry to hear about your situation. Also sorry that you have been taken with the stanchions. To guard others from buying this crap, here is a quote showing where you got them from:
Quote from: Suzuki boi on Monday, 30 July 2018, 08:43 AM
I've sourced 2 tubes from ABE (All bike engineering) for £90 a tube and £20 delivery to Ireland. That's a good price. :onya: :onya:
Cheapest here is €320 for 2.
This is their website:
http://www.allbikeengineering.co.uk/forks.php (http://www.allbikeengineering.co.uk/forks.php)EDIT: see following posts by Suzuki boi
That's terrible. I had my originals re- chromed by EG Manly in Meath at €180 for the pair.
Quote from: Andre on Saturday, 20 June 2020, 09:39 PM
Sorry to hear about your situation. Also sorry that you have been taken with the stanchions. To guard others from buying this crap, here is a quote showing where you got them from:
Quote from: Suzuki boi on Monday, 30 July 2018, 08:43 AM
I've sourced 2 tubes from ABE (All bike engineering) for £90 a tube and £20 delivery to Ireland. That's a good price. :onya: :onya:
Cheapest here is €320 for 2.
This is their website:
http://www.allbikeengineering.co.uk/forks.php (http://www.allbikeengineering.co.uk/forks.php)
Hi Andre.
In the end I never got the tubes from them, tho now I wish I did.
I bought it from an Irish company here and think it was an Italian brand. :whatever:
I spoke to a lad not long after fitting them and he the the all bike engineering stuff is actually good quality and I should of bought it from them :whatever:
Quote from: kquacker on Saturday, 20 June 2020, 11:53 PM
That%u2019s terrible. I had my originals re- chromed by EG Manly in Meath at %u20AC180 for the pair.
Jesus that's cheap.
I couldn't get the originals on it rechromed as I had to cut one in half to get it off the stanchion.
What's the quality like?
I'd rather get them rechromed instead of another 300-350%u20AC unbranded shit.
I got them from motorcycleshop.ie.
Now I have to say I've bought stuff off them for years and always great stuff but there forks are by far the worst
They've not been tested yet as I am still rebuilding the bike. But the feedback is good from others that have used their services. The finish is industrial standard chrome supposedly harder but not as shiny as the originals but youd be hard pressed to notice. Ed Manly is a regular on the road race scene so well regarded.
Suzuki Boi, thats just crap. One year did you say? Id be wanting money back.
Quote from: grog on Monday, 22 June 2020, 07:25 PM
Suzuki Boi, thats just crap. One year did you say? Id be wanting money back.
Me too, I got mine done by https://www.hardchromeplating.co.uk/ here in the UK & nine years later they still look like new.
@grog less then a year actually. I fitted them around July I think last year. Started using the bike in September. They were this bad around march or even February.
The shop said no comebacks as the winter weather most likely did it.
I was like it was only one winter!!!