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gearbox / clutch issue - loud shifting

Started by maanieek, Saturday, 12 September 2026, 06:39 AM

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grog

Amazing Col, picking what oil in his bike.

KiwiCol

😎  Always looking for the next corner.  😎

grog

Maanieek, I see they sell Fuchs Silkolene in Poland. That was oil of choice in the past for a lot of Europeans on this forum. Super 4 10w40. Expensive here in Oz.Just a thought🤷🏼

Mr Gee

Quote from: grog on Sunday, 13 September  2026, 02:01 PMMaanieek, I see they sell Fuchs Silkolene in Poland. That was oil of choice in the past for a lot of Europeans on this forum. Super 4 10w40. Expensive here in Oz.Just a thought🤷🏼

That is what I have always, used in mine and never, had any problems with it.  :onya:
Mr Gee

grog

Back in old org days, around 2012, i spent ages trying diff oils in my 14, just for info to others. Hard to remember results, could basically only go by gear change smoothness/clutch action. Remember Motul was dearest and worst. Gulf Western good, Silkolene good but 4litre bottle, more money for extra 1litre needed.Valvoline was good,  Reckon i tried 5 or 6 brands but all results  lost when old org disappeared. One i remember was Motul clutch action, turned easy friction point into on/off. All just IMO.

Eric GSX1400K3

Any semi synthetic 10w40 is ok, just check that it's JASO MA2 rated.
I try to take one day at a time, however sometimes several days catch up with me at once.

Barbastro K6

always use a mixture of 10W40 amsoil with redline.
In lubricants I never look at the price and if don't do much city work extend the change to 18 months given the 'excessive' quality of both, the base oil (PAO+ESTER) and the very excellent additive package

Barbastro K6

You can try a 20W40 to have wetter gears.

But that takes away some upload speed at boot time

Tony Nitrous

Always good to remember when you do an oil and filter change on bikes like the 14, be it for a refresh or to try a different thee, just how much of the old oil you are leaving in there. More than a lot of folk realise.

Oil change is less than an oil and filter change, which is less than a drained oil cooler change, which is less than a dry build.

It's quite common on some Suzuki's to have close to a litre still in the motor with an oil and filter change.  An oil and filter change can leave 1/6th of the old "dirty" type still in there.
.

Stevel3

Quote from: Tony Nitrous on Monday, 14 September  2026, 09:34 AMAlways good to remember when you do an oil and filter change on bikes like the 14, be it for a refresh or to try a different thee, just how much of the old oil you are leaving in there. More than a lot of folk realise.

Oil change is less than an oil and filter change, which is less than a drained oil cooler change, which is less than a dry build.

It's quite common on some Suzuki's to have close to a litre still in the motor with an oil and filter change.  An oil and filter change can leave 1/6th of the old "dirty" type still in there.
So is there any way to get rid of most of the old oil. Or is it just flush and repeat and hope you got most of it out.

Eric GSX1400K3

You can crack the pipe connector to the oul cooler,but risk leaking from there forever after.  Most dont bother and just rely on frequent oil changes every 5000km or 12 months (monthly in Hooli's case, 12years for Notty)
I try to take one day at a time, however sometimes several days catch up with me at once.

Barbastro K6

The oil that goes to the radiator is that of the lubrication circuit.
If the radiator is emptied, there will be long moments in which what reaches the lubrication areas is air, pure air.

and so on until the end of the circuit..........air pushed by the oil

Hooli

Quote from: Barbastro K6 on Monday, 14 September  2026, 07:43 PMThe oil that goes to the radiator is that of the lubrication circuit.
If the radiator is emptied, there will be long moments in which what reaches the lubrication areas is air, pure air.

and so on until the end of the circuit..........air pushed by the oil

No.

The oil pump produces more pressure & flow than is needed, the excess that is released via the pressure control valve returns to the sump via the oil cooler. The lubrication circuit isn't affected.

Barbastro K6

ok, control maximum pressure......but the air is still there until the end of its journey through the lubrication circuit.
there is no cause-effect relationship

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-WgUuU13C3g&list=RD-WgUuU13C3g&start_radio=1

Hooli

Again, No.
That's not how the oil circuit works on the 14.

I can't be bothered to watch the video as I understand how the engines I own work & I've seen the layout of what I'm talking about when I had the sump off one of them.

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