Bike Smoking when coming off revs, Rider behind said smells very rich after new

[grog]

More dramas Mate.Not available as a seperate part. Snapey has write up on here re gluing magnets have also seen where just dry solder joints.No first hand, just read. A mongrel to get to?? Probably with your luck.

[Xdiavel]

More dramas Mate.Not available as a seperate part. Snapey has write up on here re gluing magnets have also seen where just dry solder joints.No first hand, just read. A mongrel to get to?? Probably with your luck.

Hi mate,

Sorry I need more sleep and missing silly things now with this bike. I always tripple check my findings due to user error mainly lol

I checked again last night and had the meter set to Kohms and not ohms to read it, That then come up at 5.7 ohms on the actuator so now that looks to be ok, Just when I get my hopes up eh it knocks me down.

I did pull the throttle bodies out slightly this weekend and lined all the butterflies up correctly. I then triple checked the TPS and STPS through their ranges both in volts and ohms and looked good with no gaps in the readings.

I set them up to volts and not ohms as sugested by Hooli a few times but strangely if I set the TPS up at the sensor plug I get 1.1 volts but the Ohms read approx 1.345 ohms If I set the ohms to 1.1 kohms the volts are like 0.75 ish. this seems quite a big difference to me or is that ok? anyhow it is set to 1.1 volts atm with correct range.

I did a live test this morning on the stps (did not trip out on start up but very mild) It revved to 2k rpm (3.3v) ish and come down to idle, the volts hardly changed but then the arm barley turns much. As soon as it come fully off it was at 2.9v then it just slowly revs it's self back up to 1500rpm and the volts raised also to coincide with this upto approx 3.4v then slowly back down where it continued to idle again fine for a couple of mins until I had to shut it off. As stated before it now normally idles for 20secs then slowly revs up to approc 1500rpm and slowly back down with the Actuator turning the secondaries to raise the rpm, It can do this several times.

I have contact cleaner turning up today so will give all the plugs a good saoking although they all look nice and clean.

Sorry for such a long thread guys, You lot must be very bored with me by now and really do appreciate all the great advise.

I am a Network Engineer by trade and don't like to be beaten by things lol

All the best

[Eric GSX1400K3]

Have you checked the manual idle on the lhs of the bike? Could be wound in too high, so this forces the rpm high, the STAV then trying to drive the rpm down?

My current settings are all based on Ohms, and the TPS is at 1100 closed, the rpms set at the same (by eye as the gauge only has 500rpm increments), with the STPS set at 3800 open, all tb's balanced (easier to balance at >2000rpm)

Didn't get time to lift the tank and take video inside the airbox today, sorry.

[Blubber]

I dont mind the lenghty thread.
"Your" error keeps us all busy and up to date with troubleshooting an 1400.

I am still not convinced if the test you did with unplugged injectors is indicative of a correct closing injector. If it was to leak .. wouldnt the moving pistons help to evaporate any leaking fuel?

A correct spray patern is also important for a good burn.

Just thinking out loud. Not questioning you, just questioning my brainfarts

[grog]

Just wondering, has anyone removed stva and fitted gadget to plug to stop codes.Secondaries either removed or jammed open. Obviously no more fast idle, just fully manual control. Have read a bit on gixxers& sv where works fine. Havent seen first hand 14 review.

[SpongeBob]

Just wondering, has anyone removed stva and fitted gadget to plug to stop codes.Secondaries either removed or jammed open. Obviously no more fast idle, just fully manual control. Have read a bit on gixxers& sv where works fine. Havent seen first hand 14 review.

This is something I am contemplating for quite some time, too!
As an example of how implementing that 'full manual' control: there is no secondaries on MVAgusta's (at least the 4 cyl. ones), and fast idle is driven manually at the throttle tube with a small cam that very slightly  turns 'open' the throttle tube and therefore slightly opens the primaries -- i.e. the same thing as the STVA does in addition to close the secondaries-- and that gets back 'naturally' as soon as you use the throttle tube to ride as normal.

[grog]

Spongey, my ducatis had no fast idle, no choke either. 40mm carbs, just flood float bowl for cold, fast idle was a wooden clothes peg kept in pocket, tapered so just slid it  between throttle and switch block.Worked perfectly.No ecu involved, just mine. 

[Xdiavel]

Probably not the case but whats the history of the bike, you mention no power commander, could a previous owner have had the ECU flashed & it is causing over fueling at higher temps as has been mentioned previously? depending on what ECU you have fitted (some have one big plug others have two different size plugs) I have a spare ECU off a K2 that I would be willing to post to you depending where you are to rule an ECU fault out if that helps. All I would ask is that you post it back to me once tested

Cheers, Pete

Hi Will,

I was just wondering if this offer is still on the table? Not for the oil issue but for the new STVA issue, All sensors are checking out ok so at this stage it can only be the Throttle bodies/STVA or the ECU as it randomly revs up on it's own by the STVA so if not the ECU then the STVA is knackered :-(

I will obviously pay postage both ways and throw you in a drink for the kind gesture. Thanks

I am going to take it out for a blast Saturday to see if that helps settle things down first all being well.

Kind Regards

[Xdiavel]

Sorry I meant Pete not Will, Was using your user name.

[Xdiavel]

OMG Peeps,

Think I have fixed this Throttle body issue.

After spending nearly 2 weeks straight tweeking this and that and thinking I had found the issue at every turn especially moisture in the ECU plug, But again no go. I have tweaked every STP/STPS and cold start screw more times than I would have liked to admit.

The STVA sweep looked good and felt free so I could not believe something was causing this issue from a simple turn of a screw.

Anyhow this is what I think took place and me finding the issue.

Wrong screw turned ( my fault -Distracted ) Warmish day, turned screw back to where I thought it was. - No issues seen

Following Morning (cold 2 degrees) cold start runs on bike trips with C28 STVA code.
Try adjusting screw more as it must be missaligned and causing the code.
Spend Days adjusting but sometimes works/sometimes doesn't, during this time I was checking the STPS and adjusting and removing it for a clean/lube. No further C28 code seen but get a new symptom of the bike revving it's self up at idle several times and back down, This continued.

C28 code returns every morning when cold.

Long story shorter lol I thought before the weekend when I had plans to take the Throttle bodies off and tear them down and contemplate buying another set, I would remove the STPS again completely to inspect. At that point I turned the ignition on to see the sweep and adjust the sensor live while in my hand (just to see if anything changed) The sweep bolted up and down really fast. I then used my hand to do the same and felt silky smooth. It was ok ish before but felt a little notchy but just thought that was the resistance of the motor as had nothing to compare it with :-(

I thought EH! why is the sensor putting so much pressure on the STVA. I looked inside to find a rubber seal pushed up the back and when putting the sensor on this pressed against the spindle and caused drag which the STVA/ECU doesn't like and throws up a C28.

The reason it kept rasing the revs was because the range was off by a small amount from where it should rest as was binding slightly so the ECU kept making adjustment to find it's 'Home' position.

Bottom line, the STPS seal has to be fitted back to the sensor first before putting it back on. To me in a dark garage it just looked like an internal piece of the body.

Once fitted correctly the STVA now moves really freely and so far 2 tests in, No more hunting at idle. Just got fingers crossed no C28 tomorrow Morning.

I hope I haven't spoke too soon but just soo happy atm 

so STVA throttle body moved out of allignment between 3&4 =c28
pressure on STVA shaft =C28

both Together = one big head ache and stress.

[Hooli]

Ahh those seals, they often stay on the TB too. So you have to look out for them when replacing the SPS or TPS.

[KiwiCol]

Great you got to the bottom of that bit.  Go give it a run now for a few hundred k's & see how she likes it.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

I assume you mean the little o ring that sits on the STPS (and TPS) and seals it on the spindle? If so, yes yiu need to be aware. When I changed the old TPS out, tried to fit the new one and could not get the sensor body to seat home against the spindle housing. The old o ring seal was still stuck inside its bore. Removed with a seal pick, a dab of white lithium grease on the new one and all is well.

When mine was having issues,I reached out to Phil Tainton from PTR, well known Suzuki engine builder and race bike developer, he also mentioned that these orings get sticky and affect the travel of the sensor ring.

Great find, glad you got it sorted XDiavel.  Let us know how you go.