My K5 14's first mod :) and eventually the next and the next and the next....

[KiwiCol]

The engine is designed to run on 91 & runs happily on that. You can use 95 if you wish, makes no difference to performance or economy.  95 / 98 might clean things a little better than 91, but that's up to you if the extra $ is worth that fuel all the time. A tank now & again is what most guys would do I'd assume.
I wouldn't run E10 or the likes as a full time fuel, as with 98, a tank now & again to get any moisture out is ok, but use it all in 1 go (as it will attract moisture from the air) then fill with fresh 91 / 95.

Personally, I always add a measure of Moreys Upper Cylinder Lube to a tank full.  I've measured out, 30ml I think it was, can't be sure, and have a supply of little canisters (old film canisters actually) on the bike & 1 tank full gets 1 canister.   Been using this stuff for years & I've found it cleans things, prevents gum build up and, believe it or not, it seems to stabilise fuel so that if it's left for a long time, months or even 2 years, it still runs good as gold. Yep strange but true.
I use it in my 2 stroke boat fuel as well, the chain saw gets it too & even the lawn mower fuel has been known to get as taste occasionally.   Nothing scientific, it's just my observations over many years of using it.

[VladTepes]

The engine is designed to run on 91 & runs happily on that. You can use 95 if you wish, makes no difference to performance or economy.

This.

and definitely this:

I wouldn't run E10 or the likes as a full time fuel, as with 98, a tank now & again to get any moisture out is ok, but use it all in 1 go (as it will attract moisture from the air) then fill with fresh 91 / 95.

I won't use E10 at all.

As for fuel uneconomy - mine uses 6.5 l/100km which seems a lot. I do have Yoshi cams but am mostly well under the 6000 or so revs when those kick in and a lot is commuting / conservative riding.
In context that's the same as my missus' Mazda 3.

[Hooli]

Mine preferred E5 to E10, the actual octane seemed to make no difference. The difference was enough improvement in MPG to make the more expensive fuel cheaper, if that makes sense. It rode nicer too.

[j_rider]

Thanks for all the great tips re: fuel and everyone's experience and fuel economy figures.

@KiwiCol - will look into that Morey's product.

[j_rider]

The next mods from yesterday.

MOD # 2 = Cramp Buster

MOD # 3 = (testing, so possibly temporary) round bar end mirrors**

MOD # 4 = RAM ball on right mirror mount for GPS (have never had a naked bike, so not sure if this will be final position)

** have had these sitting in a box for years and years. Really lovely build quality (Barracuda brand?) other than the mirror surfaces which have a few dark marks that won't rub off. Came with my SV from the PO, but never installed mainly because the round shape didn't seem right on that bike. Visually a better fit with the 14 though don't laugh at me - I only installed one side (right) to test out performance, so am riding around today with one bar end mirror and one stock. 

[Yetiman]

Looks good mate,
There's a few on here with those mirrors so no one will laugh besides we all do something with our own touch imagine if we all liked the same flavor how boring would that be!!
Remember variety is the spice of life..   

[grog]

Pretty much my set up J, diff shape mirrors. Pussy Grips and throttle rocker(cramp buster) Been on for years. 

[Tally]

Pretty much my set up to, pussy grips, bar end mirrors, I don't have one of those cramp busters though, could be next on my list!.

[Tally]

A better view

[GSXKING]

If you want to get rid of the mirror mounts get Hyabusa caps from wreckers much neater look 👍👍👍

[grog]

Thanks Chris, never thought of that. Doesnt worry but would look cleaner. 

[Stevel3]

If you want to get rid of the mirror mounts get Hyabusa caps from wreckers much neater look 👍👍👍

Another option I've done is turn them upside down.

[j_rider]

Thanks for all the pics of your handlebar/mirror setups.

MOD # 5 = Givi tank ring

MOD # 3b = decided to go with the bar end mirrors for a while, so installed the left hand mirror, plus flipped the left mirror clamp for a cleaner look (thanks @Stevel3 for that tip)

[j_rider]

MAINTENANCE # 1 (about a fortnight ago) - indicator switch was "sticky" since my purchase. About 75% of the time it was hard to cancel the blinkers. Opened up casing, cleaned out grit from the mechanisms > working easily and reliably now.

TROUBLESHOOTING # 1 (last week) - first minor 'breakdown' - intending to ride to a client's, but bike wouldn't start. Turning key gave me lights on dash, fuel pump primed, hitting ignition just dimmed the headlights (no cranking). Looked up troubleshooting lists on the forum and worked my way through a few possibilities. Third thing I tried was disconnecteing the electrical cable from the clutch, blowing out connector and reconnecting. Bike started right up. Rode to work in the rain again. At the end of the day tried starting and same symptoms. Disconnected, blew out and reconnected clutch cable and it started and got me home. Has started first time each time since. Need to buy some contact cleaner, but not 100% sure what the cause was. My guess is that riding approx 80km in pouring rain on 4 consecutive days resulted in a little water in the connector and it needed cleaning/drying out?

MOD # 6 - Givi 527FZ rear rack, Monokey plate and Givi Trekker TRK52N top box

[Hooli]

The clutch switch can rot inside too, they trap water well. I used to drop mine off occasionally and spray WD40 or ACF50 in to the holes in it.