Removed downpipes looking for Oil loss clues - photos!

Started by vonny232, Tuesday, 24 December 2019, 09:15 PM

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Andre

Both pics are in the same manual (K2) with supplements for K3-K5. Just like you can find other wrong values repeated within the same manual. Worst are the wrong values where the correct value is never mentioned once in the manual. That cost me dearly but will make me many experiences richer.

Eric GSX1400K3

If compression between all for is relatively even (if gauge is not calibrated would have the same error on all measurements) then id be reasonably confident rings are ok. Id vbe focussing on the valve seats and guides, relatively easy to do and would avoid having to strip the engine down.  Then id use a quality semi synth oil, plenty of info on thos forum,  and ride it, monitoring oil consumption
I try to take one day at a time, however sometimes several days catch up with me at once.

Andre

Quote from: vonny232 on Wednesday, 25 December  2019, 08:38 PM
Can you change the seals without removing the head?

Quote from: Andre on Wednesday, 25 December  2019, 09:39 PM
You have to remove the head to change the stem seals as valve assembly has to be disassembled for this.

@vonny232
I stand corrected :onya: With the right ideas and tools it can be done without removing the head.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsiPoYy-b5s&list=PLGawEHwkX4aKJsQdfpgiX7ZwLyQs2iu9L&index=18

Eric GSX1400K3

  :onya:
Pretty std to use compressed air to keep the cylinder pressurised when changing valve spring collets and springs.  Valve seals and seat facing will need the head removed.

A magnetic tipped tool is essential.

Another way is to have the piston at tdc and let the valve rest on the piston top
I try to take one day at a time, however sometimes several days catch up with me at once.

Andre

Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Tuesday, 04 February  2020, 12:11 PM
Valve seals [...]. will need the head removed.

The point of the video is that you can replace the seals without removing the head.

Eric GSX1400K3

Yes, you are correct,sorry didnt watch the entire thing first time.  But if valve seats are worn...
I try to take one day at a time, however sometimes several days catch up with me at once.

Andre

Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Tuesday, 04 February  2020, 12:38 PM
Yes, you are correct,sorry didn't watch the entire thing first time.  But if valve seats are worn...

Let me try and finish for you: ... I wouldn't be satisfied just replacing the seals. The head would come off so I can do a proper check of the guides, valves, and valve seats (and more).

I posted the video as I answered incorrectly to the question if the head needs to come off to change the seals.

I hate half-ass jobs. But others (and their wallets) would go for this. Or would just pour in thicker oil. Each to their own.

grog

My thoughts on Vonny motor, i couldnt be bothered with all youve done. Photos down bore etc. I wouldve sat down and chose to just top up or if it really worried me, pull motor out. Head and barrels off, check it out. Full head service, my local can do that so must be a similar bloke everywhere. I doubt rebore needed unless something really bad has happened in the past. New rings, head serviced, throw it back in and enjoy.

vonny232

Hi Folks, been a while.

Today I performed a COLD compression test and got some pretty good results.

Its odd because I performed a HOT compression test a few weeks ago and got terrible readings (like 100PSI per cylinder) but as the bike cooled a bit (over a period of perhaps 30 mins) the compression started increasing to 130psi or so - WEIRD.

So I repeated again today on a cold engine and got the following:
1: 162
2: 160
3: 168
4: 165

I repeated each one twice.

I dont know what to think, the previous bike mechanic told me it was around 130PSI each but never said if it was a warm engine or cold. I certainly dont understand why a HOT engine would give a terrible result, which gets slowly better as the bike cools (but is still plenty warm).

In any event, I put the right plugs in (the CR8EK instead of the CR9EK) and it ran great. Had a lovely sunny ride and took my mind off all that Corona Virus stuff.

Ill get it serviced soon, put the 15W-40 engine Oil in and ride it for the season. Just gonna replace the downpipes and collector and im good to go :)


Eric GSX1400K3

I daresay on a hot engine, clearances are at maximum, allowing more pressure losses than when cold.

Fitting correct plugs would be a great help, i reckon the biggest issue you had was the incorrect plugs.
I try to take one day at a time, however sometimes several days catch up with me at once.

Andre

When measuring compression on a hot engine (after a longer ride) I had a lower compression than after a 12 min idle to warm up the engine. Basically the same behavior observed by you although the difference was smaller (12 PSI).

That clearances are at a maximum when engine is hot goes against my religion :confused1: I rather think that oil viscosity is the variable to look at.

Anyway, if the bike runs great now all is good :cheers:

grog


ks78976

Hi, i just wondered what the solution to this issue was. Was it simply changing the plugs to a hotter plug? I have a similar bike, large engine (1300), and without wanting to have eggs thrown at me (its a Honda cb1300), have a similar issue of consuming half a litre in 1000 miles and wanted to explore whether the 1400 has a similar issue of consuming some oil.... thanks :)

Eric GSX1400K3

AFAIK the 1402 uses very little oil, unless theres a fairly serious issue with the engine. 
I try to take one day at a time, however sometimes several days catch up with me at once.

KiwiCol

for what it's worth, I never touch mine, service to service.  Oil level stays the same right through.
😎  Always looking for the next corner.  😎

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