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ECU Swap

Started by TonyD, Wednesday, 27 March 2019, 06:40 PM

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TonyD

Been getting hard FI red light with alternating FI and odometer so bike will start and run but not fast idle to start. Actual error C28 - STV actuator circuit malfunction. Auto electrician followed it through to STVA not getting correct voltage from ECU (4-42 in the manual) and recommended replacement ECU. Sourced 2nd hand ecu from wreckers - mitsubishi unit with 2 plugs 42FAO. Swapped out and got flashing red light and hard FI error - bike wouldn't start. Swapped back and in original situation. Can you simply swap ECUs in a 2008 model (if so should I think the 2nd hand ECU is at fault).
Tony
Got A Light?
Tony

Tony Nitrous

Aren't the ECU's matched to the immobiliser ?


I know on some bikes the immobiliser can be turned off in the ECU allowing them to be swapped.

08 would have a chipped smart key, a different ECU won't recognise it (if I am correct ?)
.

TonyD

Yes - I have seen some posts on this forum suggesting this. I have found some repairers on-line that claim they can do ecu "repairs" that will match ecus with key/immobiliser. May be my next option. Just thought I'd see if any members have done this already.
Got A Light?
Tony

grog

Think ive read about later ECU, not just a simple swap over. Will search my brain on answer.

Tony Nitrous

Quote from: TonyD on Wednesday, 27 March  2019, 07:01 PM
Yes - I have seen some posts on this forum suggesting this. I have found some repairers on-line that claim they can do ecu "repairs" that will match ecus with key/immobiliser. May be my next option. Just thought I'd see if any members have done this already.

Not GSX's, but I know when folk have lost both chipped keys on other bikes the options were...
# Use an ECU from the US as some (Honda's) don't use the HISS immobiliser.
# Get the ECU Flashed and remove / disarm the imobiliser setting.
.

Mick_J

Post K5 bikes have an immobiliser which is matched to the key so both ECU and key/lock must be changed or the key reprogrammed by a dealer.  However there may be a way around it for test if you can get one of the keys from the breaker, swap ECU and place matched key next to key hole and start bike with your own key.  Worth a try.
Keep the rubber side down.          Mick

Hooli

I've never heard of a ECU failing, did he check the output voltage at the ECU as well as at the STVA? I'd be looking for a dodgy connection between the two, which I think includes the infamous grey multiplug under the LH side cover.

TonyD

Update on this problem. Tried changing battery per suggestion from forum member with no change. Have worked out that if I switch kill switch on while throttling on the slightest amount the bike runs throught the start up checks without throwing FI error. Bike then starts.
Got A Light?
Tony

Hooli

Time to check the TPS then.

TonyD

Final post on this one. Had the bike in with the Suzuki dealer - gave them no history of previous diagnosis from auto electrician. Dealer came up with same diagnosis - fault with the ECU. They did some tweaking so the startup without auto fast idle is satisfactory. Quote is around $2,000.00 for replacement ECU. Think I'll live with it.
Got A Light?
Tony

KiwiCol

2K!!!   Bugger that, I'd be looking at a PCv   A quick look up price & it says £370
😎  Always looking for the next corner.  😎

Blubber

Quote from: TonyD on Tuesday, 07 May  2019, 03:22 PM
Final post on this one. Had the bike in with the Suzuki dealer - gave them no history of previous diagnosis from auto electrician. Dealer came up with same diagnosis - fault with the ECU. They did some tweaking so the startup without auto fast idle is satisfactory. Quote is around $2,000.00 for replacement ECU. Think I'll live with it.

There is a complete one on Ebay Australia now.. RBpartout or Road bike part out is the name of the seller.

ECU with imobiliserkey and aerial for 449 AU$

if its bothering you  ;)
Wreck-it Richard - one of the unDutchables

BlackAdder

Quote from: Tony Nitrous on Wednesday, 27 March  2019, 07:12 PM
Not GSX's, but I know when folk have lost both chipped keys on other bikes the options were...
# Use an ECU from the US as some (Honda's) don't use the HISS immobiliser.
# Get the ECU Flashed and remove / disarm the imobiliser setting.

...yeah... ...I've had my go on the immo, and when I didnt exeed I gave the ECU to a friend that does programming... ...couldnt solve it so he sent it to his friend who does immo deletes and stuff for living - he physically opened the ECU and probed straight to the chip inside - said that it's pretty heavily crypted by Suzuki altho the exactly same box is used was it in Eclipse on something...

Gettin rid of the immo is pretty much no-go, at least not easily - need to get a key programmed for it but if you do you could just stash the programmend key (or better yet just the RFID chip) near to the areal and use your old key. Otherwise you need to change all the locks or use a blank key to be programmed and then get that cut as the OEM.

Options (cheaper than 2000€£$) would be a race ECU (just need to fiddle with wiring and get it tuned), or find a K4 or older ECU without the immo (and the wiring harness as well, they dont mix and match that well) or a second hand immo ECU with correct keys and locks. I would actually have a Maxpower Ignijet racing ECU and K7 ECU + electrics + keyes and locks, as I went with older ECU+harness and got rid of all the locks in my bike (I have RFID key now)
...I accidentally Mordored my motor, is it bad...?

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