Another scrapper

[lawrie]

Woja-fink of this boyz n gurls, I personally think its worth £1500. but I don't think i'd pay more!!

The BEST bit is, I think I have EVERYTHING to put it right!!
I got tanks, mudguards, clocks, headlamps & brackets, calipers, indicators etc etc, don't have a spare radiator & i'm ( hoping) its ok, complete exhaust, 2 sets of rear shocks, wheels & discs, even got an as new cyl head with all valves/springs shafts etc!!
I'm already bored again, so should I go for it???



http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUZUKI-GSX-1400-NO-RESERVE-/152683409765?hash=item238ca3f165:g:o38AAOSw6lxZcfqi

[seth]

save it and sell it 

[Tony Nitrous]

If that was local to me I'd think about it but wouldn't be sure.

Same price I paid for mine (crashed too) with full system / PC111 / several extras but mine was rideable and an easy fix.

Couple of mates have bought them cheaper than me.

The fact you have the bits to fix it would make it much more tempting though.
Interesting project.

[Blubber]

i would be tempted too, especially if i had all the necessary bits.

a man needs his man cave projects 

[Rynglieder]

If you have the skill (and more importantly the time) why not?

Sometimes the problem with getting involved with a bike that has been classified as a write off is the fact it may be a little more difficult to sell on afterwards, but if you are not intending to do so or are happy to accept that it will bring you back a lower price I would not dismiss it.

[gsxbarmy]

For the right money it could be a good buy - so long as you have the right clocks for the later model Lawrie else it could get expensive

[Tony Nitrous]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302441373593

[lawrie]

For the right money it could be a good buy - so long as you have the right clocks for the later model Lawrie else it could get expensive

I let that one go as I wasn't sure about the key/immobilizer situation, as all my other 1400s have only been up to 2003, (no imob)

What is the difference to the clocks on the later models?

I didn't realize this,  & the set I have (which I repaired) seem to  work perfect on my other bikes.
But since you mentioned this, I had another look & notice the the needles on my bikes are ALL red, but the 'spare' set have red needles with a larger black pivot-boss, does this indicate later clocks??

Thanks Tony, I have my eye on that one as well!!

[seth]

tomohawk is the man to contact about gsx1400 clocks.
im sure there are several differences including number of led's behind the dials and other bits.
think the casings are same or share common parts

what he doesn't know about or has modified isn't worth knowing.

[Andre]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302441373593

Since I don't have a clue how to link to FB, here a c&p fom the "GSX1400 Owners Alternative Gathering Point".

Toňy Dimech I've tried dealing with these people before, they refuse to give a description of the damage or a list of what needs replacing.
They say they are 'too busy'.
They expect you to first travel there to inspect the bike yourself, then go away and bid, then go back there a second time to collect if you win.
Not very practical if you live several hours away, it means you have to make two trips!

Scott Elliot Looks cosmetic damage only??

Toňy Dimech Photos can be deceiving, they can't show if the frame or forks are bent, if the wheels or discs are buckled etc.
Also, you don't know how long the engine was running while the bike was left lying on its side.
A detailed, written report of the true condition would be reassuring to bidders but at the end of the day, these bikes will always be Category C write-offs and will never be worth as much as a straight one.
I have recently tried to buy two separate GSX1400s and both were on Cat. Cs without the seller disclosing it in the description!
After pointing this out to the sellers, both continued their adverts without amending them to inform potential buyers.

Chris Holbrook A. There are four classes of write-off: a class A has to be destroyed with a certificate proving this has been done. A cat B cannot be resold whole, but parts can be removed and sold, while category C and D vehicles are repairable.

A category C write-off is defined as repairable salvage and is applied to a vehicle with significant structural damage where the cost of repairs exceeds the book value.

Any bike older than ten years ends up as a category C as replacement components are a much bigger percentage of the bike's value, so it is more likely to be written-off with a simple scratch on the frame or engine.

Since April 2003 four-wheelers categorised as a C or D write-offs have had to have a Vehicle Identify Check (VIC) conducted by a VOSA office before a V5C registration certificate will be reissued by the DVLA with a marker on it saying "substantially repaired and or accident damaged; identity checked on dd/mm/yyyy".

But bikes are not part of the scheme, so that's not on the V5, although the insurance companies and hpi can identify its status, so always insist on an MCN Bike Check to check.

So it is 'caveat emptor' or 'buyer beware' as you will have to satisfy yourself that the 'structural damage' that made it a cat C has been repaired properly. I'd expect the seller to have an MCN Bike Check to hand, and a sheaf of receipts showing what has been repaired and replaced.

It could be that the frame has simply been scratched or scraped down the road, or it could have been bent or cracked with the wheels out of line. Start by checking for damage to the lockstops on the headstock that would indicate there's been a heavy impact.

Check the wheel alignment using a laser or straight edge like a fluorescent light tube or scaffold pole. Drop the bodywork off to check the condition of the engine cases. For example, crankcase damage that has been plugged to stop an oil leak.

If you are not confident in your abilities to spot a problem, then I'd want to take it to a mechanic you rate to check it out.

Also contact your insurance company before you go ahead. Most will accept a repaired bike, but they may insist on a fresh MOT as proof that the bike is roadworthy.

Take your time, satisfy yourself it's good to go and you could get yourself a great bargain. But if you have any doubts, walk away.

Chris Holbrook Taken from the MCN Guide to buying a bike...


Martin James All of the above ^^^ and it looks a TINY bit un-loved to start with. Not for me. 😐

Alan Woolley the 1400 has tip over sensor so engine will stop runing

Andre Heuser In theory yes, in practice not always. Just last month a 14 owner on a German forum reported that the engine, lying on its right side after accident , was running for a while at high revs.

[gsxbarmy]

For the right money it could be a good buy - so long as you have the right clocks for the later model Lawrie else it could get expensive

I let that one go as I wasn't sure about the key/immobilizer situation, as all my other 1400s have only been up to 2003, (no imob)

What is the difference to the clocks on the later models?

I didn't realize this,  & the set I have (which I repaired) seem to  work perfect on my other bikes.
But since you mentioned this, I had another look & notice the the needles on my bikes are ALL red, but the 'spare' set have red needles with a larger black pivot-boss, does this indicate later clocks??

Thanks Tony, I have my eye on that one as well!!

The main (visual) difference is in the look of the clocks, with the later (K5) models having the immobiliser as well as the silver "tin" looking bit being in 2 sections on the later clocks, but as one section for the earlier clocks. The internals also are slightly different in the way the needles mount, the later clocks have larger bosses to mount on, also I believe the wiring is different in the wires running down to the wiring plugs (as remember the K5-> has a different ECU to the K2/3/4 so is a different wiring loom). Now how intrinsic that is to the clock operation I don't know. Also of course the later clocks have the visual red led for the the key coding. I think these may be one of the few parts on a 14 which are not interchangeable between earlier and later models, but I guess "Q" is the man for the definitive answer.