Replacing wheel, sprocket carrier, swing arm bearings etc etc.

[Tony Nitrous]

Bicycle inner tyre also works as a shim.

Some models of bikes are a lot harder on them than others. I've used red heavy duty / harder ones that do the same job but cushion and wear less.

[Irish in Oz]

Only bikes I ever had problems with cush drive rubbers where four stroke dirt bikes i.e. thumpers.

[SpongeBob]

Only bikes I ever had problems with cush drive rubbers where four stroke dirt bikes i.e. thumpers.

Then you should have a look at MVAgusta: on Brutales & F4s at least, cush drive rubbers are to be changed every 6000Km or so... And indeed, after about 6000Km, the sprocket carrier has a lot of play...

[Irish in Oz]

I'm glad I never owned an MV Augusta dirt bike.

[Hooli]

How do you lot kill the crush drives? Mine are still fine.

[Tony Nitrous]

How do you lot kill the crush drives? Mine are still fine.

My GSX14 ones are fine.

I've only had issues with Hayabusa's that have had plenty of use at the drags. It's common enough that they sell upgraded ones for them.

[Nic]

All finished now, went on a 50K test ride, words fail me. New tyres always make a huge improvement and that alone is probably one of the best things you can do for your bike.
There used to be a slight zingy vibration in the pegs at 100ks in 6th, that's gone.
There is no noise at low speeds, the bike is smoothest it's been in the 3 years I've owned it. Out on the country back roads I just wanted to go faster and faster, before this work I'd get home feeling like maybe I need a new bike or even if I've had a gut full of riding, after this moderate up grade the bike is a blast to ride.
The shims in the cush drive didn't go un-noticed either, from decel to acel it is seamless, before it felt like the chain was WAY loose.
So with a new sprocket carrier bearing and new tyres it's a new bike, oh and the sounds of the new trioval slipon is really nice as well. I'm especially happy with how smooth and quiet the bike is and very happy that there is maybe 2 kilos of muck gone from the bike.
All in all with all the f/ups with parts, the bike now is back to being something I want to get back on 

[Speedy1959]

Nic I have always struggled with rear wheel replacement..BUT..
I recently had my swing arm out and so this time the wheel replacement was WITHOUT the Torque arm being in situ.. This made a Huge difference to how easily the wheen went back on!
In fact it went so smoothly that I actually thought I had done it wrong !
In the past I never have removed the Torque arm (laziness) and it was a battle and a half!
One little trick I have used over the years on many bikes is to "wodge" an upside down shovel/Spade under the tyre and then move the shovel in or out as required to get the axle hole to lign up with the swing arm...
Well done on your rear end resto mate.

S.

[Nic]

Thanks Speedy, yes I think next time I'll undo the torque arm for sure. I read about the shovel trick, I have one 10 feet away and just never thought of it.

[Nic]

While I was sitting outside on my back porch enjoying a well earned scotch n coke, it dawned on me, while I was doing the front tyre this morning I remembered that I had a
cheap trolley jack with a piece of 2x1 pine raising the front wheel by jacking up under the headers, as you do this the rear wheel lowers, helllloooo 
This is the answer to an easy putting back on of the rear wheel.
That's it.
Now if only I can remember this next time.
Oh and thanks to those who commented during this exciting thread, I appreciate it no end. Let's have more bike talk please, less days of our lives

[KiwiCol]

Cheers Nic, more Scotch n Coke too!

[Speedy1959]

While I was sitting outside on my back porch enjoying a well earned scotch n coke, it dawned on me, while I was doing the front tyre this morning I remembered that I had a
cheap trolley jack with a piece of 2x1 pine raising the front wheel by jacking up under the headers, as you do this the rear wheel lowers, helllloooo 
This is the answer to an easy putting back on of the rear wheel.
That's it.
Now if only I can remember this next time.
Oh and thanks to those who commented during this exciting thread, I appreciate it no end. Let's have more bike talk please, less days of our lives

I used to errr "like" Whiskey..
Yhese days it creases my stomach..Like extreme indigestion..

For some reason G&T's dont do..
Therefore I just have to force myself to drink G&T's (multiples)..
Hic

S.

[grog]

Nic, great write up and pics. Much better than i could do. Tried shovel and jack methods struggling with rear wheel, shovel much easier. A job i hated made easy. Sorry my rag in sprocket didnt work, just looked my EK now at 20 th ks, never needed adjusting, best chain IMO, No wonder my chain adjusting tip a failure. 

[Eric GSX1400K3]

Thanks Nic, you've got me thinking about my cush drive, I think I might try the alu or bicycle tyre shim trick. Mine needs a good clean and I really should check that swing arm bearings too. You've inspired me to get onto this quicker now.

Well done mate

[Nic]

Thanks Nic, you've got me thinking about my cush drive, I think I might try the alu or bicycle tyre shim trick. Mine needs a good clean and I really should check that swing arm bearings too. You've inspired me to get onto this quicker now.

Well done mate

Thanks Eric, just my opinion but I don't like the tube shim idea, I don't like to put something in there that is softer than what's already in there. In the good old days with the Honda four you had to have the wheel on the ground, sprocket side up and stand either side ON the sprocket applying weight to the left then the right back n forth before the carrier would go into the cush rubbers, that's how tight you want them, by adding some rubber grease your not going to have that much resistance but in a perfect world you want that tight as can be. Mine feels great right now while riding but I'll be looking into new rubbers because I can see where they have deformed over time. When you have your rear wheel off, lay it sprocket up on the ground/bench, grab the sprocket either side and see if there's any play trying to rotate it back n forth, that's the first test, any play at all and you need to address it. The alu shims worked well in my case, probably somewhere near 1.5mil thickness.