What did you buy today ???

[GSXKING]

I just bought an Atlas throttle lock. I will fit it on the weekend. They look like a well made product.

Post a pic once fitted please 🙏🙏

[grog]

Bought 6 of M8 10.9 button heads, nickel plated. Will use as caliper mounting bolts, $3 from bolt shop.

[froudy]

Bought 6 of M8 10.9 button heads, nickel plated. Will use as caliper mounting bolts, $3 from bolt shop.

@grog
I always shied away from using button heads as caliper mounting bolts because the depth of the hole for the Allen key is very shallow. I think that they could strip out very easily when trying to remove them and cause problems getting them out. I always used stainless cap heads.

[grog]

Thanks Froudy, i understand your reason. Ill check torque rating for button heads. Have high tensile Allen keys in at present, just not shiny. Further reading ill get onto. Thank You Sir👍

[Eric GSX1400K3]

Bought 6 of M8 10.9 button heads, nickel plated. Will use as caliper mounting bolts, $3 from bolt shop.

@grog
I always shied away from using button heads as caliper mounting bolts because the depth of the hole for the Allen key is very shallow. I think that they could strip out very easily when trying to remove them and cause problems getting them out. I always used stainless cap heads.

Mr. Froudy, do you use copper slip or never seize on them, since their stainless?  What torque do you then use? I've currently got plated 10.9 hex bolts in, I have some hex head stainless bolts that are equivalent to gr8.8 (800MPa) bolts that i might fit becuse they look nicer.  I'm concerned if I use a thread lube and the specified 25 NM that I'll overtorque and strip the threads out of the calipers.

[Speedy1959]

I read somewhere to reduce the torque setting by 10% if your using an anti seize..

S

[Eric GSX1400K3]

10% may not be enough.  Changing the friction factor only slightly can have a huge impact on torque values

[Tony Nitrous]

My bikes are up to 42 years old, some have been apart a LOT of times. I take recommended torque settings with a huge pinch of salt.  Maybe head, crank cases, mains etc that are rarely apart, but stuff that's regularly apart I'm often a bit more cautious off.

[grog]

You blokes love your torque wrenches, me also. Im with you but i also trust my feel, been doing up bolts forever, have you ever noticed the bolts in dinosaur legs. 😂 Sometimes feel is better than just tension on a tool. IMO only.

[Hooli]

Trying to think when I last used a torque wrench, it might have been the head gasket on a Subaru Legacy I had in about 2010. or before that a timing belt on a LR Disco I sold in 2007.

[seth]

The massive problem with using torque wrenches is the torque settings are only valid on new bolts not when refitting them .
If you torque a used bolt to its original tightness it'll more than likely snap before you get it tightend to the preset torque.

[Hooli]

The massive problem with using torque wrenches is the torque settings are only valid on new bolts not when refitting them .
If you torque a used bolt to its original tightness it'll more than likely snap before you get it tightend to the preset torque.

Plus examples like the stator rotor bolt on 14s, that torqued once lose their elasticity & come loose with torqued up 'correctly'.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

That's only true if the bolt is torqued to a preload that takes the material into the plastic deformation zone.  AU design of bolts usually only allows a fastener to go to 65% of yield, whereas EU design (e.g. DIN std bolts) allow to 90% of yield, making most AU fasteners oversize and DIN bolt single use only.  The single biggest issue leading to bolt failure is the use of thread lube.  This changes the friction factor which was used to calculate the required bolt preload in the first place, sometimes by up to 40%.  This means ( for example, a dry bolt that could only handle say 100Nm before plastic deformation, smeared with thread lube and torqued to the same 100Nm, suddenly has 140Nm applied to it and it fails.

Going by feel is fine, and structural steel fasteners are normally done this way using part turn method, so snug tight and then a fixed amount, say 1/6 or 1/4 turn. 

What is interesting is that if you use torque plus a part turn, this gives great accuracy, the torque part ensures the flanges or joint is tight, the part turn provides the preload in the bolt.  Issue is, using this method, all bolts are yielded and therefore single use only.

Snug tight is subjective too, but it works. Hand tightening is about 30-50% accurate and suitable most times.  Torque tightening is 10-30% accurate, and stretch to load tensioning is 5-10% accurate.   Most accurate is ultrasonic elongation measurement used in conjunction with stretch to load, this is used in aircraft engines, power plant turbines etc.

So for critical fasteners like crank main bearings and sprocket nuts, camshaft cap bolts and such use a torque wrench, for not so critical, an experienced  hand is just as good.

[Tony Nitrous]

Another 9 star pickets..... so I could then start putting up some more barbed wire. Got 4 strands done (out of 5) and ran out of barbed wire. 18mm of rain whilst I was working, so I'm over it for a while. Almost half way with fencing this area. Might do a bit more next week but I have some bills coming in for the water tanks ($5k+) and some external blinds ($5k+), so maybe not much.

[grog]

Today was going to fit new front brakes, other stuff been in the way so taken me a while. Realised i hadnt bought new washers, now ordered. Bloke at HEL shop said just stick old ones in the oven for 10 minutes, will work perfectly. Hes prob correct but the rest is new so ill wait for new washers.