CHEC showing. No start.

[Alan Moreton]

Hi guys.  I would like your collective might to advise what i should do about my 2003 60,000 miler 14 please.

Yesterday I started my 1400 up after a 3 to 4 week layoff.  I had the bike on a trickle charger.  It took a bit to start up, and after a  few moments the FI light came on but it still kept going though quite roughly.  I switched off and then re started it and she ran fine.  I didn't ride it I just ran it to warm through.

Today, I tried to start it up and although it was turning over, pump was running etc it wouldn't start.  I then noticed the CHEC light was showing.  I put the fault code switch on and the code showing was C00 which is no fault!

I have checked the clutch switch (in fact I swopped it with a new spare).  I have checked all the fuses.  The kill switch appears to working correctly and I am planning to check the sidestand switch tomorrow.

Am I correct in thinking that if the clutch, sidestand switch etc were faulty the engine wouldn't spin over anyway - like the kill switch?

Anyway guys.  Advice would be appreciated.  Electrics is not one of my strongpoints.

Kindest regards   Chip

[DP1400]

Alan, you may want to consider a battery change. I keep mine on a trickle charger too and without fail, she fires up within two seconds, every time. A trickle charger won`t make a tired old battery good, so i`d check that out before you get bogged-down in other avenues of thought. Good luck with it mate. Keep us all updated.

[paulr5604]

Sorry you have already done everything that I would have checked I am sure someone with more knowledge will be along soon. The side stand switch only stops you from putting it in first and riding off because if the side stand is down and you put it into first it kills the engine so I can't see that stopping it from starting

[Alan Moreton]

Thanks so far guys.

Yes a battery can cause all sorts of strange issues.  I think the one fitted is quite a few years old so I think I might well get that checked out.

The bike hasn't had too much use over the past couple of years  - what with lock down and my wife was very ill last year, and it seems to need a lot of charging. 

So good spot chaps.  I'll keep you informed  - and thanks for your comments. 

Kindest regards Chip

[paulr5604]

@gsxbarmy put a great how to test your battery it the electrics section of the forum

https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=6767.0

[gsxbarmy]

Indeed check the battery out Chip - link as per above.

You are right in thinking that if the clutch switch etc  isn't working the bike won't turn over.

Few other considerations:
- you may want to check connections, like the grey plug and the white plug under the LH cover - maybe have them apart and clean with contact cleaner
- it may well be that the fuel pump / tea bag assembly etc may need a good clean and/or the petrol is just a bit old - these too can cause starting issues and rough running. A bit deeper perhaps is a deep clean of your injectors, maybe in the first instance (once you have cleaned the petrol filters), run some higher octane fuel through with some injector cleaner added for good luck (the higher grade fuel does have better detergents - Shell Optimax is a good one to use. If that doesn't work, then maybe get your injectors cleaned (there is a link

To me it sound slike rough running is more likely a fuelling issue.

Useful links
https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=430.0
https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=95.0

[Hooli]

I bet you turned the bike off and took the keybout to remove the seat before you read the codes. 14s don't store the codes so they are lost when you turn the key off.
I'd try it again with the fault code connection already bridged, you'll see the code when it' happens then.

My first guess is vacuum pipes. They go brittle and snap. So if the bike has been left for ages the movement as you started it might have finished them off. That'd also cause a fault code for the MAP sensor.

If it's them they're easy to replace, just warm the new pipe in hot water first as it makes it easier to get over the connections. From memory it's 3mm pipe.

You saying the fuel pump runs and it spins over rules out the clutch and sidestand switches. Another one I've seen of a dirty ignition switch always seems to stop the fuel pump working so it can't be that either.

[Alan Moreton]

Thanks again for the latest replies.
When the problem first occurred (the FI light and rough running) I did switch off the ignition as you described but then immediately tried again and she started up and ran ok so I didn't try the switch on that occasion. 

It was only yesterday when It wouldn't start at all (and I got the CHEC light), that I used the switch  (s suggested in the manual by turning the engine over for at least 4 seconds) and the only fault code is c000 which according to the Haynes manual is "No fault".   

I have always used Shell optimax or super unleaded in all of my bikes and this tankful isn't too old. Perhaps 3  to 4 weeks and I have been using petrol stabilizer over the winter.

Otherwise - thankyou all for your suggestions.  I appreciate you taking the time.  I'll start working through them and see what I can find.  Cheers guys. 

Chip

[Alan Moreton]

Hi guys.  A quick update.
I replaced the battery as it just failed GSXBarmys suggested test process.

I have checked or replaced the clutch switch, sidestand switch, kill switch and generally looked the under tank area over for obvious issues.

As I am so useless with electickery, i have booked it in with my local Suzuki dealer who is going to look at it for me.

I let you know the results - if I survive the shock when I get the bill

Chip.

[Irish in Oz]

From memory all those switches go through a relay, sorry only reading this post now.

[Irish in Oz]

Turn signal/side stand relay

[Irish in Oz]

So if engine is turning over it is none of them, sounds like fuel.

[Snapey]

So if engine is turning over it is none of them, sounds like fuel.

Pressure regulator dislodged maybe?

[Mick_J]

Can you smell petrol from the exhaust after an attempted start? if not I would have to agree with Snapey, pressure regulator.  That happened to me not long after I cleaned the fuel pump, seems the plastic clip will only stand being dislodged and re-fitted once and needs to be wired up after that.  If you have damp start you could try a squirt of that, if the bike fires then out with the fuel pump.

[Alan Moreton]

Hello again chaps.  Once again any thanks for your thoughts.

I did check for a spark.  There was no spark! 

No smell of petrol either. 

Its booked in on Thursday for my trusted dealer to have a look at.

Kindest regards

Chip.