Clutch stuck

[Jambo]

Hi all.

I have changed the friction disks and springs on my 14. EBC standard disks and heavy duty EBC springs. Changed the oil and fitted Castrol Power RS Fully synthetic. Everything went according to the plan. All torque settings according to specs. But since then, when bike is cold the clutch does not work as it should. I can see it working in and out by looking through the oil entry hole, but it does not slip. It's like the disks are glued together. So what I do is let the bike run idle for 5 min and only then and with engine off I put it in gear engage the clutch and force it to free it self. Once free, it kinda works for a mile or two to working perfectly fine.
First thought was, these friction plates are new and need bedding. This was a year ago. The thought that the springs might be too stiff croosed my mind, but I am thinking that fully synthetic oil screams guilt.

What do you guys make of all of this?

Cheers

[Hooli]

I'm not sure on the clutch but I'd change the oil for semi-synth. We're seeing bikes running fully synth on here suffering with valve stem seals failing, I guess they can't absorb fully synth oil to stay soft like they need too.

I know when I had a similar clutch problem on my old Bonnie, taking the plates out & washing them in petrol fixed it. I was never sure why, so couldn't say if it'd help yours. I've never been inside a 14 clutch, is there a stack height measurement you need to set everything up? if so it could be worth rechecking that.

[seth]

As @Hooli said lots of problems seam to come from using fully synthetic oil.
I'd swop back to a good semi synthetic motorcycle oil.
Also check and clean the clutch slave cylinder as these can stick .
Good luck

[KiwiCol]

Yeah, the semi syn is the way to go really on these engines, but, first I'd be doing as Seth suggested, check you're getting full travel on that push rod - by cleaning the slave & refreshing the fluid, unless you've already done that, then it's try the oil swap with 'cleaning' of the clutch plates, bit of brake cleaner perhaps on the friction surfaces would do it. 

[Jambo]

I changed the hose and fluids on the clutch system the same time I did the plates and oil change. The thing is it works great once it starts working. But it wasn't like that when it came to me. Through the weekend I took all the plates out and it all seemed good, besides some discoloration in one or two metal plates(no pictures). Because I did it with the side stand, I could work on the clutch basket without taking out the oil. I am changing the oil to a semi-synthetic.

Cheers

[T 24]

That clutch issue don't depend on base oil. It can be mineral oil, semi synth or synthetic. It depends on additives of that oil.
Those problems are the same with all base oils.
Change the oil brand. Sometimes using some diesel motor oil may help (they have usually more washing additives).
Some friction materials and oil additives just don't work together.

[Snapey]

If you're parking it for any length of time have something to hold the clutch lever in which keeps the plates apart. That doesn't fix the problem but it means the clutch works from the get go.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

Hi all.

I have changed the friction disks and springs on my 14. EBC standard disks and heavy duty EBC springs. Changed the oil and fitted Castrol Power RS Fully synthetic. Everything went according to the plan. All torque settings according to specs. But since then, when bike is cold the clutch does not work as it should. I can see it working in and out by looking through the oil entry hole, but it does not slip. It's like the disks are glued together. So what I do is let the bike run idle for 5 min and only then and with engine off I put it in gear engage the clutch and force it to free it self. Once free, it kinda works for a mile or two to working perfectly fine.
First thought was, these friction plates are new and need bedding. This was a year ago. The thought that the springs might be too stiff croosed my mind, but I am thinking that fully synthetic oil screams guilt.

What do you guys make of all of this?

Cheers

Hi Jambo,, I run the same clutch and HD springs I'm my 14 and I use semi synthetic Gulf Synertrex3000 oil.

I think you need to check that you have the clutch stack in the right order, and pay attention to the manual it shows in there that the last friction plate (closest to the cover) needs to be indexed around 1 finger on the clutch basket, otherwise the stack can't move the full distance it needs to properly disengage. I made this mistake on mine and couldn't get the bike into gear. 

Double check you don't have air in the clutch hydraulic line as well.

Not sure if a full or semi synthetic oil makes any difference to the clutch operation, but interesting what Hooli says about burning valve stem seals.

[BlueDragon]

I had the same/similar problem when I bought my 1400.  Owner said a new clutch was installed, but was at times a little sticky..

If I didn't ride the bike for several weeks, the clutch would not engage properly and I had to put the bike on the centre stand. Put the back brake on, rev it up a bit, pull the clutch in and bang it into 1st and let the clutch plates unbind..  but after about the 3rd time, the plates remained bound up.

So, taking the clutch apart, here is what helped me..

I noted that everything was in fact installed OK...  but not correctly, according to a head mechanic who taught me at my brothers bike shop..

His theory was that the metal plates also need to be installed a certain way..  over the years, I've spoken to other mechanics about this - some agree, some don't..  so naturally you can make up your own mind.. I'm not about to start an argument here as to the validity of this.

If you take a look at the metal plates profile, you will see that that is one edge that is sharp and one that is curved..  This is because when the plates are made - using a stamp to cut them out.  The stamping causes one edge to be curved over  (top edge as the stamp hits into the metal to cut the shape of the plate) and one edge to be sharp - being the bottom edge.

So when you install the plates, the curved edge should be facing away from the engine.  hope that makes sense..

this apparently makes a difference for clutch operation against the clutch plates.

I noticed with my clutch that the metal plates were facing in all different directions.

So, upon re-assembly..

I cleaned all the metal plates with brake cleaner.  I also soaked the clutch plates in the same oil I was changing to - soaked them for several hours in the morning. 

put it all back together as per the Suzuki workshop manual and making sure the metal plates were all facing the proper way. 

fresh gasket and gasket goo..  I tend to then leave the bike overnight or for several hours during the day to let the gasket sealer cure before refilling with oil..  used semi-synthetic oil.

Since then, the clutch has been fine.  It only binds every now and then, like if I don't ride the bike for about 4 weeks or something.  I tend to have the front brake on when I put the bike into gear, so the odd time the clutch binds, it frees itself straight away.

If I ride the bike every weekend, I don't have any problems. 

[grog]

My old GS1000 used to stick, from factory. 14 never has.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

My old GS1000 used to stick, from factory. 14 never has.

Same here, never had an issue, quite like the 1400's clutch.  Only when I rebuilt it and had the last plate wrong I had an issue, but after fixing that no issues since.

[froudy]

If it wasn't sticking before you replaced the clutch plates then it has to be an assembly error in my opinion.

[T 24]

You changed the friction disks to a different brand. Do you know the material of the plates exactly?
Try some other oil brand. Or change the original disks back. It's a typical issue in Japanese bikes!!!