Fit Individual (Pod) Air Filters

[insane1400]

Sooo.... new fuel pump, new fuel filter asembly, new teabag etc. I also got the injectors cleaned which was actually a waste of money as there was no difference from before and after, they were fine before they were cleaned (but of course they still cleaned them and charged me)
Anyway once the bike started up (with the pod filters on) it ran perfectly, I went for a short test run and up to about 5K its running great, even smoother than before.
I will keep you posted , but fingers crossed there wont be any need for a dyno.

[Hooli]

I'd get a dyno run done anyway, you might find it's lean in some areas without you noticing to ride it. Just a power run isn't a huge expense compared to the peace of mind.

[deni3134]

Hi

sorry my english is not so god but I try
Is the gsx 1400 running god with open airpods ??

regard Denis

[seth]

To run with pods you will need to have a remap and probably a power commander.   




(autocorrect was playing up again Seth)

[Turbo91]

Hi I have just removed my airbox to fit pod filters and now when I start the bike it idles at 5k and I am getting chec on the dash.can anyone help

[Mick_J]

There are two fuel injection monitors on the right side of the airbox, one is for air temp ((IAT) and the other air pressure (AP), are these still connected?

[Eric GSX1400K3]

Wow, 'idling' at 5k....

[seth]

Check everything is still connected as said and that you have got the throttle cables snagged.
Other than that you'll need to balance the throttle bodies and also check the tps&stps.
You'll also need it mapped as you are changing the amount of air over standard.
I can send pictures of how to mount the sensors but not here as I can't get that to work .

[Turbo91]

I have checked all connections and they all seem ok. And i am getting a c28 code.

[seth]

C-28 is the throttle position valve actuator fault
You need to check a few things
I can't post pictures these days but if you go to the downloads and look at part one of the suzuki workshop manual the section 4-42 show exactly how to test it .
Some people have had problems with the magnets coming lose in the stepper motor (the square bit between the throttle bodies at the rear)

[Eric GSX1400K3]

I had similar, C28 code and stuttering at low speed, the actuator control was working fine from a cold start, would idle at 2500rpm and steadily drop as engine temp increased. I recall seeing a post on how to access and reglue the magnet into place. Before I did that though, Hooli posted about the STPS being dodgy.  I checked that and that sensor did not give a consistent reading through the rpm range. Replaced the STPS and no more C28 codes, and no more low speed stuttering.  May be worth a check, these sensors are getting old now.

[Turbo91]

C-28 is the throttle position valve actuator fault
You need to check a few things
I can't post pictures these days but if you go to the downloads and look at part one of the suzuki workshop manual the section 4-42 show exactly how to test it .
Some people have had problems with the magnets coming lose in the stepper motor (the square bit between the throttle bodies at the rear)

would this being faulty cause it to idle at that high.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

I don't believe so. If the actuator fails, then it won't idle at all, I would think. 

Removing the airbox and the sensors, the ecu has no idea about how much fuel to add in, so it's just guessing, dumping in a lot of fuel to keep thr engine running. A snagged throttle cable could also cause the high idle, or the manual adjuster on the lhs could be stuck.

You need to make a bracket to mount the IAT and AP sensors close to the middle between pods #2 and #3.

[Hooli]

C-28 is the throttle position valve actuator fault
You need to check a few things
I can't post pictures these days but if you go to the downloads and look at part one of the suzuki workshop manual the section 4-42 show exactly how to test it .
Some people have had problems with the magnets coming lose in the stepper motor (the square bit between the throttle bodies at the rear)

would this being faulty cause it to idle at that high.

Possibly if it's stuck at one end of it's travel. It rotates 'backwards' to control the fast idle when cold after all.