Wiring up (and mounting) a Healtech Gear indicator - [help please]

[SA14]

My new Healtech GiPro with ATR arrived yesterday and today I was out in the shed trying to figure out how to wire it up. It's pretty basic, plug and play the plug and find switched power to the red wire using the splicer thing. But I have questions.

1) First of all for those who are wondering (like I was) does the handlebar mount actually fit on the handlebars? The answer is yes - just. See pics

2) The cables are hell long!

3) Where to find switched power.

So with the mounting position sorted (I can always revert to sticking in on the flat area of aluminium just under the tacho) I'm faced with this really long wiring loom. What the heck? Am I going to loop it and tuck it in somewhere? I have no choice I spose but any suggestions would be appreciated on how and where to place the looped excess cable.

Now onto the switched power. I read where some suggested using the horn because it's handy, out in the open and a double plug adapter (thingy) can be crimped on and that would indeed make a nice neat solution but that would mean looping the red power wire back up the bike and onto the horn terminals. Is that how I'd do it? Seems convoluted but if you all nod then that's what I'll do.

Failing that I have the fuse box and all that wiring just sitting there waiting to be spliced into. Is it just me or does splicing using that cutting splice thing really the best way to do this. Seems a bit destructive and if cutting into the wire seems a bit fragile and a potential wiring weak point to me. If you say "nah it'll be fine" than I'll do it but I just wanted to pause and ask first.

In the photos you can see where I snipped then pulled the wire out of the blue wire tap that the grip warmers where attached to. They used the "fuel" wire. I presume that's fuel pump? But that's now "occupied" with the blue wire tap so can't be used again. What other wire there can I use to splice/cut into? The instructions suggest "tapping into the Orange/Green wire at the 2-pole rear brake light switch connector or at the diagnostic connector" but I'm not sure where or even what either of those two are. 

Or should I just double the red wire (which is really really thin!) back up to the horn and use a double headed terminal to hook up to the clutch side horn? That red power wire seems awfully thin to use a crimping tool (which I'd have to buy). The kit does supply the wire tap.

[SA14]

Just went out to do some more searching while I wait for your advice and found a thick orange wire with a thin green stripe. Is this the one they mean? Not sure what's "two poles" about it but there it is - I think.

Edit: I think that's what they mean by "at the diagnostic connector". Am I getting warm?

[Hooli]

Diagnostic connector is around there somewhere, it's a two pin white connector with nowt in it on my K2. Not sure if it changed on later bikes.

Personally I've soldered on to the solid orange wire near the fusebox as a pre-fuse switched supply. I use that to trigger a relay that powers all my accessories direct off the battery. Bit of overkill for your needs though.

[Hooli]

Update as I knew we had a thread on it, you've found the right wire as detailed here https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=744.0

[SA14]

Excellent thanks!

Taken from the other thread (thanks @froudy !) I'll post that pic here in case anyone else reads this thread in the future.

Just done this for you Vlad if it's any help?
Can't believe how dirty that plug is considering I just rebuilt the bike...Shame on me

There are only 4 wires going into the plug.
1.Black/White...To Dealer Mode Switch -ve.
2.White/Red.. To Dealer Mode Switch.
3.Grey/Red... Ignition switched 7.5V +ve.
4. Orange/Green...Ignition switched 12V +ve.

I'll use that one. Thanks again @Hooli . You're helping me a lot on this bike.

So with regards to the 168 miles of wiring loom just "don't be such a baby and loop it up and shove it anywhere it fits"?

[Hooli]

Aye I'd just loop it, easier than cutting & joining it. You could just run it back & forth under the tank in a big Z to use up the slack. Tied onto the main loom it'll be hidden & secure. My heated grip feed is like that as I couldn't be bothered to cut the plugs off & join everything. In the case of my grips it keeps the plugs connected as they aren't a waterproof design too.

[SA14]

Cool, I'm a gunna do it. Thanks for y'all help. I'll be back with a (hopefully programmed) lit up display.

[SA14]

Man, that witebtap was tight to get to and I don't feel too confident about it but I squeezed as hard as I could with the pliers and I have power so it must have tapped in.

But now I'm not sure I'm in love with the position. Seems too "divorced" from the instrumentation. I'll get it working for now then see about moving it. There's enough slack in the loom to move it under the tachometer if I decide later.

[SA14]

All done and buttoned up. Even started her up (after midnight in the shed with the headlight blaring...don't get me started) and cycled through the gears and the unit already knew what gear I was in. I thought I had to program it by revving up to 3-4k and holding it there on the centre stand in each gear but nope, it already knew what gear I was in. Cycled it up and down a few times and (to celebrate) even tried to shift into 7th gear but for some strange reason it wasn't there 

Adjusted the brightness to one level below standard. Default brightness is 4, 9 is permanently the brightest, I set it to 3. I then selected 7 for GSX1400 in the TRE mode [see pic below]. That last paragraph (except the last sentence) confuses me and I've not been able to get a straight answer as to what each level does. They state to try different modes to see which one works for the bike but they don't mention what the differences are. I've asked both Hungary (support@) as well as Superbike Supply who I bought it off and Hungary never answers the question and SS doesn't know.

Anyway, it's raining out and my local race track is closed so I'll have to wait to test it but I can't wait. I hope it doesn't do an accidental wheelie [insert eek! here]. I can always switch it off until my skills improve and just enjoy the gear indicator but I know how to ride slow and I'll start off that way just as if it had more power to begin with.

Thanks one and all. Especially @grog and @Hooli - your support is magnificent.

[VladTepes]

My advise is to get rid of that bloody scotchlock and do a proper soldered or crimped joint.

[SA14]

My advise is to get rid of that bloody scotchlock and do a proper soldered or crimped joint.

I agree. I wasn't filled with confidence and was surprised they suggested it to be honest, I hated slicing into factory wiring like that. I know it introduces a week spot and a chance for corrosion to get into a vital part of the electrics but I've also known them to work for years. Not on an exposed motorcycle though (only in cars). I won't be riding in the rain on purpose but it still makes me nervous. Problem is it's in there now so I'd have to do some disassembly and unwrapping the wire to repair it with shrink tube. I'd have felt a bit better if I could have had good access but it was so tight in there that I was literally surprised when it worked.

Must learn how to solder and do electrical work properly. Might at least put a few dabs of silicone on there to waterproof it a bit.

[SFC1000]

SA14 I fitted mine tonight and will put the tank etc on in the morning.
I was setting it up in the TRE mode and found the unit far from sensitive to the touch, shithouse actually. How was yours or have I got an average one.
Anyone else feel free to chime in with how sensitive your unit is to adjust, just touch it or punch it through the bike. 

[SA14]

SA14 I fitted mine tonight and will put the tank etc on in the morning.
I was setting it up in the TRE mode and found the unit far from sensitive to the touch, shithouse actually. How was yours or have I got an average one.
Anyone else feel free to chime in with how sensitive your unit is to adjust, just touch it or punch it through the bike.

Excellent! You're going to love it. Actually I found mine to be a bit insensitive (no, it didn't call me chubby). I presume you're referring to the touch sensor on the top to adjust through the menu. Although I did end up with it displaying the numbers upside down at one stage...lol I looked down and thought "oh no! What does E mean?!" It was an upside down 3.

But being touch sensitive I imagine it's our various electrical differences that make it touchy or insensitive. Once you set it up you'll never have to touch it again.

Did it read your gears automatically out of the box? Mine did, thought that was cool.

[SFC1000]

It didn't read the gears, only neutral and 1st, every other gear was 1.
After the TRE, I was going to set it to learn, but couldn't get back into it as the touch pad wasn't a touch pad, maybe a house brick.
I rang the distributor and explained I couldn't get into the menu and he's sending me another one with a prepaid satchel to return the other as he said they do have some problem units and the way he said it I felt there are more than a couple coming back.
I can't complain about the response though.

[grog]

Thats a real bummer Mate. Mine fitted on easily, has worked perfectly for maybe 5 years. Im sure theyll sort it.