Running rough.

[KiwiCol]

Poor Notty, he is partial to a bit of wooly. 

[Notty]

Will try and have more of a squizz over the weekend Col.
Have bought some 'Lanocote' a CRC product to spray into multi plugs. Talked to a fella at a new Suzuki dealer in town. They sell and service jetskis. He says the  biggest issue with intermittent faults on jetskis is dry electrical joints. Recommended 'Lanocote', smells like its made from sheep's arseholes.
Some in the valleys might find that quite appealing 

Notty will be in the market for some of that, he hasn't been out much since lock down. 

Get in bulk direct from the source !!!

[Hooli]

It sure is weird Grog. The first thing l notice is when l clutch in to change down the engine dies. Let the clutch out and it fires. So coming to a stop sign l hold the clutch in early, maybe in 3rd or even 4th gear and coast to a stop holding the revs up around 4k then lots of clutch slip with it popping and farting to get underway. Soon as l let the revs drop the fire goes out.

That does sound like vacuum pipes or the MAP sensor that they run too, about a certain amount of revs/throttle the ECU just goes off the TPS to calculate the airflow, hence it only dies at low revs.

The MAP is the sensor between the frame tubes under the tank, if you unplug it the bike with run with the FI light lit. Worth a try though to see if it behaves.

I believe it's also the same part as the ambient air pressure sensor hung on the RH side of the airbox, so you could try swapping them to see if the fault changes too.

[KiwiCol]

I don't think he's getting any codes or FI light though.

[Hooli]

You don't get an FI light for split vacuum pipes as I found out recently & if the MAP is reading wrong but not out of range you won't get a FI light for that either.

[Kiwifruit]

Cheers Hooli.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

You don't get an FI light for split vacuum pipes as I found out recently & if the MAP is reading wrong but not out of range you won't get a FI light for that either.

Not directly no, i was getting the C28 code (STPA) which went away after replacing vac lines, balancing the tb's and resetiing the TPS and STPS and adjusting fast idle. So they are all interrelated.

[froudy]

revs.

The MAP is the sensor between the frame tubes under the tank, if you unplug it the bike with run with the FI light lit. Worth a try though to see if it behaves.

I believe it's also the same part as the ambient air pressure sensor hung on the RH side of the airbox, so you could try swapping them to see if the fault changes too.

I can't remember if trying to run with the MAP sensor disconnected brings up a fault code..But I know from memory that the bike does not run or idle well. I balanced my throttle bodies and forgot to reconnect it and the resluting fault was a bit alarming at the time until I realised my mistake and reconnected it.

[Hooli]

revs.

The MAP is the sensor between the frame tubes under the tank, if you unplug it the bike with run with the FI light lit. Worth a try though to see if it behaves.

I believe it's also the same part as the ambient air pressure sensor hung on the RH side of the airbox, so you could try swapping them to see if the fault changes too.

I can't remember if trying to run with the MAP sensor disconnected brings up a fault code..But I know from memory that the bike does not run or idle well. I balanced my throttle bodies and forgot to reconnect it and the resluting fault was a bit alarming at the time until I realised my mistake and reconnected it.

It does light the FI light with it unplugged, I see it every time I balance the throttles.

[Hooli]

You don't get an FI light for split vacuum pipes as I found out recently & if the MAP is reading wrong but not out of range you won't get a FI light for that either.

Not directly no, i was getting the C28 code (STPA) which went away after replacing vac lines, balancing the tb's and resetiing the TPS and STPS and adjusting fast idle. So they are all interrelated.

I've seen that code just from both throttle sensors being far enough out of adjustment, so what you did to fix it makes sense.

I think the ECU compares them to control the fast idle (secondary throttle motor turns 'backwards' to do the fast idle) so it expects to see the TPS within a certain range whilst the SPTS is showing it's in 'fast idle'.

[Mick_J]

It sure is weird Grog. The first thing l notice is when l clutch in to change down the engine dies. Let the clutch out and it fires. So coming to a stop sign l hold the clutch in early, maybe in 3rd or even 4th gear and coast to a stop holding the revs up around 4k then lots of clutch slip with it popping and farting to get underway. Soon as l let the revs drop the fire goes out.

That does sound like vacuum pipes or the MAP sensor that they run too, about a certain amount of revs/throttle the ECU just goes off the TPS to calculate the airflow, hence it only dies at low revs.

The MAP is the sensor between the frame tubes under the tank, if you unplug it the bike with run with the FI light lit. Worth a try though to see if it behaves.

I believe it's also the same part as the ambient air pressure sensor hung on the RH side of the airbox, so you could try swapping them to see if the fault changes too.

I had the exact same fault a couple of years ago and that's what I did to cure it.  IAP sensor (under tank) is the same part as the AP sensor (side of airbox) and interchangeable.  Got a spare sensor from a forum member which cured the fault.

[Kiwifruit]

Thanks guys, will have a play when l have some time to concentrate on what l'm doing.

[Kiwifruit]

Hoping l've found a culprit for my issues. The white clip or grommet was not seated correctly in the fuel pump........We shall see.

[KiwiCol]

Yes, it does look like you've nailed it. The HP filter appears to be ½ off it's mount, letting all the pressure out - on occasion.  Good detective work Col.

[grog]

Top marks, well found. Some stainless wire required.