Super tight rear upper shock bolt removal - noob

[SA14]

I want to remove my Givi top box and the frame uses the top rear shock bolt as a mounting point. No probs. 6mm Allen key and whoa...super tight. Better stop, head to the online manual (thanks org!) and it says "just undo the bastard!" but man is it super tight! Not one to really enjoy rounding things off or snapping a fresh set of allen keys bought specifically for this job (needed a new set anyway) I stopped.

The manual says nothing about spring compressing so I'm guessing it's not under any pressure but it must be. Anyway, got them half off (found the right hand side was half off anyway!) but they got tighter as they started to come out so I reversed it all and did them up as tight as I could using a 3/8 socket with a 6mm allen head but it started to "round off" way before I got to "fucken tight" (16 ft/lbs) so now I'm not sure.

Is it a matter of breaking through some loctite or something? At no point did the bolt feel like it was easier to undo. I turned it total about 3 or 4 turns before reaching the "ok that's too much force now" moment and the allens are starting to either round off the bolt head or themselves. Do I absolutely need a torque wrench to do them up again? Seems like a pretty critical bolt to be only using a 6mm allen.

Or..."Oh My Dog Dude! Put the tools down and back away from the bike!"

The last photo is of the right hand upper shock mount half undone.

[Hooli]

The bolt doesn't take any of the shock loads, it's only there to stop the top bush sliding off the frame lug.

I'd spray the back of it with wd40/plusgas/your favourite. As I think they go right though the threaded bit, so you'll have a dirty end on the bolt that you're trying to force through the thread after a few turns.

Oh & when it's off, I always pop the top of the shock off & smear a little grease inside the bush so it doesn't seize on the frame.

[KiwiCol]

The PO could have put loctite on the threads as that bolt has been known to come loose.

[SA14]

The bolt doesn't take any of the shock loads, it's only there to stop the top bush sliding off the frame lug.

I'd spray the back of it with wd40/plusgas/your favourite. As I think they go right though the threaded bit, so you'll have a dirty end on the bolt that you're trying to force through the thread after a few turns.

Oh & when it's off, I always pop the top of the shock off & smear a little grease inside the bush so it doesn't seize on the frame.

Thanks for that and success!...on the left but the right (the side that was half undone) got so tight that yep, I rounded off the inside of the allen hole. It got really tight at the end, I was sitting square on and using two hands to make sure the allen key was square in the hole and it just stopped turning. Before this I did spray liberally with WD40 from the inside and through the exposed threads, let it sit for a while (maybe not long enough) then did the in and out slowly to try to get some penetrant into the threads. It seemed uncooperative from the start so I'm thinking that maybe it's been half out for a while (maybe from the time the top box was installed) and might have bent with use?

This is as far as I could get it out before it stopped and I rounded the hole.

Sigh...nothing to do but push on. Open to all suggestions hit me with what you'd do.

1) Multigrips? Not enough room to swing them.
2) Drill and ezy-out?
3) Weld a bolt head to it? Eek
4) Cutting disc a screw slot then impact driver? Eek

None of which are going to be fun, I know.

[SA14]

The PO could have put loctite on the threads as that bolt has been known to come loose.

Yeah, that's the powdery stuff on the successfully removed bolt?

[KiwiCol]

Run a tap through the threads & clean up the bolt, she'll be right.

[SA14]

Also, once extracted I'm going to need new bolts. I'm going to go with a normal reliable hex head...unless anyone has any other suggestions? Is it screwing into steel or aluminium? Will I need anti seaze/copper lube or loctite again? If loctite - which one? The manual doesn't mention either of these thread treatments so just "screw the bastard back in again!"?

[KiwiCol]

Into steel.  A Stainless bolt with a bit of coppercote would do.

[Hooli]

I use a drop of threadlock as they come loose, it's into steel by the way.

[SA14]

Into steel.  A Stainless bolt with a bit of coppercote would do.

Thanks, don;t suppose you know if it's threaded all the way through or will I need a bolt exactly this length?

I use a drop of threadlock as they come loose, it's into steel by the way.

Catch me up a bit (it's been a while), coppercote and loctite on the same bolt?

Do I need to buy a torque wrench for this? I know I should have one anyway but this is turning into an expensive repair instead of a simple unbolting. 16 lb/ft isn't much. I'm guessing "bloody tight"'ll do.

Off to Chunnings.

[froudy]

Get some PlusGas penetrating spray on the bolt and let it soak in. Personally I would use a centre punch on the edge of the bolt head and tap it aound and out using a hammer..Carefully.
As already mentioned, run a tap down the threaded holes to clean the old Loctite and threads out.

Replace with dome head M8(I think from memory)  stainless Allen bolts and washers. You can either Loctite them in, or if you will want to remove them again easily use some Nickelslip on the threads. It's far better than Coppaslip.

I would shy away from Easy-Outs as they have a nasty habit of snapping off and then you're in a whole world of poo. Also I wouldn't try your option 3 either. Option 4 could be an option, but I think my method will work ok.

Good Luck

And NO...You won't need a torque wrench. Just do them up tight, but not stupid tight!
NO..It's not threaded all the way through. I think the bolt length is either 25 or 30mm.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

  I bought a Teng Tools torque wrench 2 to 25 Nm off ebay for 75 AUD. Best value for money and essential IMHO for working on these or any motor bikes if you don't want bits to break or fall off.

[froudy]

I bought a Teng Tools torque wrench 2 to 25 Nm off ebay for 75 AUD. Best value for money and essential IMHO for working on these or any motor bikes if you don't want bits to break or fall off.

I've got a Teng Tools 1/4 drive 2-25Nm as well. I usually only use it for the 8 cam cover bolts as they are M7 and prone to stripping the cam cap threads out.

[Hooli]

I bought a Teng Tools torque wrench 2 to 25 Nm off ebay for 75 AUD. Best value for money and essential IMHO for working on these or any motor bikes if you don't want bits to break or fall off.

I've got a Teng Tools 1/4 drive 2-25Nm as well. I usually only use it for the 8 cam cover bolts as they are M7 and prone to stripping the cam cap threads out.

I've stripped three of those using the extension bar as a screwdriver (no ratchet attached!). The cam journals appear to be made of soft cheese.

[SA14]

Thanks got all the above. Bought a set of easy outs and screw extractors too as well as a metric tap and die set. They didn't have anything anti seize at all. I'll use a dab of grease.

Thought of the push around with a centre punch but this is already in there pretty tight and the bolt head is tiny and domed so not sure how much twisting leverage I can get on there. Its on there pretty tight. I need a good "purchase" on an ezy out to turn it with some force.

I'll think I might try the screw extractor first then drill into the damage that that does if not successful.

Also decided against stainless and went with M8x1.25 x 25 (luckily I remembered to bring the good bolt with me) high tensile gold hex head bolts. It'll look pretty agricultural but I'll spin and polish the heads, might even give them a slight dome of their own.

First the extraction. Stay tuned and again thanks for all your help.