Running rough.

[Kiwifruit]

It's certainly frustrating, l hate intermittent faults.
I could probably start it in the morning and it could be fine.

[KiwiCol]

Yeah, it's hard to diagnose when it's intermittent.  I'd be going to the plugs & leads, then coils if they check out.  How long have those plugs been in Col?   Peace of mind, bung in a new set. just std ones.

Has the sound of electric as opposed to mechanical issue anyway.   

[Kiwifruit]

Yes Col l'm convinced its electrical. It's actually had this issue on and off for 5 years but until recently it seems to have cured itself when l have opened the fuel cap, so for a long time l was looking for a blocked tank breather, but its not that yet it ran properly after doing so.
At least we got home but l hate torturing an engine like that.   

[grog]

Col, running very rich but not actually misfiring? IAP on 14 is same thing as MAP sensor on cars. If they play up on cars they usually run rich as Bill Gates. Unfortunately there is no test on unit, only voltage to it and vac hoses. IAT also needs checking. My thoughts, if all of a sudden its over fuelling its bad info to the ECU.

[Kiwifruit]

It sure is weird Grog. The first thing l notice is when l clutch in to change down the engine dies. Let the clutch out and it fires. So coming to a stop sign l hold the clutch in early, maybe in 3rd or even 4th gear and coast to a stop holding the revs up around 4k then lots of clutch slip with it popping and farting to get underway. Soon as l let the revs drop the fire goes out.

[KiwiCol]

Been thinking about this one, You've got heated grips yeah? anything else drawing current that's non standard?     Wild shot is battery, when low revs, not enough power to do all & dies, higher revs bit more juice. Would also account for the rough running.

[Kiwifruit]

Don't want to keep you awake at night Col.....
It runs rough right through the rev range. I do run a couple of LED daytime running lights as well as the grips. So l checked battery voltage tonight and its showing 12.3v   Started the bike and its no different. Pulled the plugs and all 4 are the same.....sooty black. Surprised it ran at all. Think l will bung some new plugs in it just for good measure.
Thanks for your thoughts   

[froudy]

Battery voltage should increase to around 14.5V when you rev the bike up if the charging system is working...
Check the generator output. Remove sprocket cover and disconnect the 3 pin plug with yellow wires. Test meter on any pair from memory you should get 80V.

[KiwiCol]

A good battery should be sitting at 12.65 - 12.85   12.3 needs charging.    You say it's no different when you started the bike, does that mean it was still at 12.3 whilst running?  If it was at 12.3 after you switched it off, I'd of thought it would of been higher than that after running a bit.

Yeah, I do go to bed early.

[KiwiCol]

what sort of problems does that loose stator nut cause?

[froudy]

what sort of problems does that loose stator nut cause?

Abnormal noise and no charging if the rotor is loose and not turning all the time.

[KiwiCol]

Ya haven't got a cleaning cloth or tennis ball stuck down inside the air cleaner have ya? 

[froudy]

Ya haven't got a cleaning cloth or tennis ball stuck down inside the air cleaner have ya? 

Yes..That would cause problems

[Kiwifruit]

Havn't tested battery with engine running. I can leave the bike for three weeks and it fires up immediately. So many things seem to contradict each other.

[grog]

Col, yeah check charge rate, basic test. If thats ok, something is telling ECU to over fuel. all those sensors need a check. All plugs black, nothing to do with throttle balance or STPS ot TPS. Or unless intake blocked as said.