Rear calliper rusty pistons

[Notty]

As we are still in lockdown going through the bike ready to be on front row of the grid once we can get out. Decided to clean up the rear callipers, they have never inspired any confidence in their stopping ability. Noticed the pistons are rusty on the edges.Now I am not that mechanically minded so what is the best way to sort this? new pistons and seals? are they easy to fit?  advice appreciated 

[gsxbarmy]

As we are still in lockdown going through the bike ready to be on front row of the grid once we can get out. Decided to clean up the rear callipers, they have never inspired any confidence in their stopping ability. Noticed the pistons are rusty on the edges.Now I am not that mechanically minded so what is the best way to sort this? new pistons and seals? are they easy to fit?  advice appreciated 

Don't worry about it Notty - they all do that as the caliper sits underneath the disc so catches all the crud and water lays on it. Having said that the "rust" aside, they do build up a thin crust around the area where piston meets caliper - what I used to do was undo the caliper and drop it down and then gently pump the rear brake so both pistons just start to emerge - you'll see a think line like a pencil line where the crud is. Using a tooth brush and some brake cleaner, just work that off, then push the pistons back into the housing, refit the caliper and then pump the rear brake to re-engage

[froudy]

If the pistons are really tight to press back into the caliper, then it's worth rebuilding with a new seal kit. I use this kit from Power House on Ebay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GSX-1400-01-08-rear-brake-caliper-seal-repair-kit-K1-K2-K3-2001-2002-2003/151634716980?hash=item234e222934:g:OnkAAMXQ~6VQ8SIC

Just clean the piston up with a used Scotchbrite green pad and all should be good.

[Hooli]

I hardly ever replace the seals (I've changed them once). What normally happens is the dust seal is pushed out of it's groove & twisted as it's jammed up the side of the piston. Turn it upside down & put it back, then the drag of the piston straightens it in use.

Having said that, if it's just the first 1/4" or so of piston it doesn't matter as they don't get inside the seals anyway. Back brakes on a 14 should work quite well, I once rode back from Spain on mine as I run out of front pads.

[GSXKING]

All three gentleman have given you sagely advice @Notty 

[T250]

My rear brake didn't seem to work as well as it should, I found removing the brake pedal and cleaning up/lubing the spindle made a world of difference 

[Notty]

Just clean the piston up with a used Scotchbrite green pad and all should be good.

Don't worry about it Notty - they all do that as the caliper sits underneath the disc so catches all the crud and water lays on it. Having said that the "rust" aside, they do build up a thin crust around the area where piston meets caliper - what I used to do was undo the caliper and drop it down and then gently pump the rear brake so both pistons just start to emerge - you'll see a think line like a pencil line where the crud is. Using a tooth brush and some brake cleaner, just work that off, then push the pistons back into the housing, refit the caliper and then pump the rear brake to re-engage

Scotchbrite worked a treat along with a tin of brake cleaner !!. thanks guys 
@froudy
@gsxbarmy

[gsxbarmy]