Help with bike lying up

[Suzuki boi]

Thanks lads.
Bit of an update.

Got her to one piece.
She's starting.
2 new tyres.
Forks done
Front brakes rebuilt,and bleed
Rear brakes rebuilt, and bleed
Clutch release mechanism cleaned and bleed.
New fuel pump.
New fuel pump relay.
New exhaust headers and collector box.
New air filter.
New chain and sprocket
4xspark plugs.

Think that's what I've done to her so far.

She's running not so great and I think it's because the spark plug cap(part that goes in over the spark plug) is cracked and broke at the end.
Wouldn't even start awhile back.
So I just wrapped insulating tape around the end to stop it arching . And now at least it starts
Also today I had leaks in the exhaust system!
My god trying to get the header from the 2nd cyclinder out is a bitch.
Gasket from the header to the collector pipe deciding to destroy itself so have no gasket for that so I just filled around it with assembly paste. Would that hold or would I need to get a gasket?
Fucking expensive things for a little gasket.

[seth]

Your hard work is paying off
You can get aftermarket exhaust gaskets
Remember eBay is your friend you just need a set the correct size
Exhaust paste never lasts long term
You have gone this far do it right don't bodge it .

[Suzuki boi]

Thanks Seth.
Got a gasket and no visible leaks so far
She still not running great.
Idles fairly irratically ,can't tell what rpm it's at as the rev meter stil not working.
If I let it idle for abit eventually she poops herself and cuts out.
A couple of backfires aswell.
There is abit of white smoke when idling and revving on the left side exhaust (as you sit on the bike)
Has me thinking it's an issue with cyclinder 1 or 2.
White smoke to me is usually coolant mixing with oil( head gasket) but this bike doesn't use coolant
Oil burning I had always associated it with blue smoke not white.
Altho the smoke could mean f**k all and just alot of condensation
Checked:
New Plugs
Ignition coils(with a multimeter)
New Air filter
Injectors cleaned
TPS
That's all I can remember checking that could possible be an issue.
Any ideas lads?

[froudy]

White "Smoke" will be condensation and will stop once the engine is warmed up

[Blubber]

Old gasoline or one of the two air pressure sensors are faulty? 

[Andre]

There is abit of white smoke when idling and revving on the left side exhaust (as you sit on the bike)
Has me thinking it's an issue with cyclinder 1 or 2.

More likely cyl 3 or 4 as you don't get smoke there.
Check which exhaust header doesn't heat up.

[Suzuki boi]

@froudy , yep I'm hoping it's just that

@Blubber ,I'll take a look at the intake air pressure sensor and the intake air temperature sensor.
Anyway to test these? Air temperature sensor with an ohm meter but unsure on the air pressure sensor
Or could I disconnect them and the ECU set a default value for the 2 of them and see if it idles better.

@Andre all 4 headers got hot so all cyclinders are at least firing up.

[Blubber]

@Blubber ,I'll take a look at the intake air pressure sensor and the intake air temperature sensor.
Anyway to test these? Air temperature sensor with an ohm meter but unsure on the air pressure sensor
Or could I disconnect them and the ECU set a default value for the 2 of them and see if it idles better.

There a 2 air pressure sensors,
1 on the airbox
1 on the injectors rail

I think there is a test procedure mentioned in the manual but never needed it myself.
The manual is available as a download on ORG.

[Hooli]

It won't run with the manifold pressure sensor disconnected, or at least it won't idle. It'd need enough throttle to switch to the open circuit map to run.

You can swap the MAP sensor (between the frame rails) with the ambient pressure sensor (RH side of the airbox under the side cover) as they are the same part number.

[Andre]

It won't run with the manifold pressure sensor disconnected, or at least it won't idle. It'd need enough throttle to switch to the open circuit map to run.

Sorry, but it will run with the manifold pressure sensor (IAP) disconnected, howbeit in Fail-Safe-Mode. It will idle just fine. See TB-Sync.

You can swap the MAP sensor (between the frame rails) with the ambient pressure sensor (RH side of the airbox under the side cover) as they are the same part number.

That's a good way to test it.

[Blubber]

To me there is a difference between disconnecting and disconnecting.

The manual talks a disconnecting the hose...however: You can also disconnected the sensor from the loom.

Just throwing in another view.

[Andre]

Nope, it explicitly says to disconnect the coupler. Even shows it in the pic as #1.
Obviously for sync you need to take the hoses off in order to attach the sync device. But that's of no concern here.

[Hooli]

I was thinking of disconnecting the vacuum pipe, they don't run if you do that but leave the electrics connected.

[froudy]

I was thinking of disconnecting the vacuum pipe, they don't run if you do that but leave the electrics connected.

I haven't read the whole thread which is probably a bad idea...But I assume here that we're talking about balancing the throttle bodies?
I unplug the electrical connection from the IAP sensor between the top frame rails and connect the Morgan Carbtune to the stubs on the throttle bodies...Idle set to 1100RPM...
Don't forget to plug it back in again after balancing because the engine runs really badly..Frightened me to death the one and only time I forgot to plug it back in again

Also never try and start the bike before checking that the fuel feed from the tank to the throttle bodies is re connected. The pump just carries on trying to prime the system resulting in a large volume of petrol spraying all over the engine and anything else within a 1 metre radius of the bike

[Andre]

Froudy, I have read the whole thread as it developed but can't remember most of it.
The TB-sync was just a tangent

@Suzuki boi  But back to the white smoke on the left exhaust (only!?). As was said before white smoke is from condensation and will go away when engine is heated up. If there is no white smoke on the right side then that indicates that there is not enough heat produced on cyl #3 and or #4. But you said that all headers heat up. Question: is there a different temperature on the headers? Laser thermometer (or a different degree of skin burns ) will tell you.