tacho not showing revs.

[muzza55]

Hi, I have bought an '04 1400 for easy money, rough as eh  I am slowly getting it sorted and tidied up, it was left out in the elements for a fair while, anyway turn the ign. on and the bike goes through it's test cycle, tacho swings full arc and returns all good, start it up and it runs fine only problem is the tacho isn't working at all, as in dead.
I have looked on the forum, couldn't find anything so am asking if anyone could advise on where (sensor?)the tacho gets it's signal from so I can find and trace any faults or it a case of pull the clocks and check circuits in there.
Thanks in advance for any replies.
muzza.

[KiwiCol]

Gidday Muzza, I've had a look at the wiring diagram, but for the life of me I can't see he RPM sensor.  The speed sensor is by the front sprocket, but that's not what you're after. 
I'd say it's incorporated in the bits under the timing cover, sounds like it should be there, but I can't see it on the diagram. I've not had a reason to take the cover off.

[muzza55]

tah mate, yeah for the life of me I can't find it as well, always thought it came from the coil impulse but you may have given me a clue as to where to have a gander, cheers fella,
muzza

[seth]

@Thommohawk
Anything you can help with ?

[gsxbarmy]

@Thommohawk
Anything you can help with ?

Thommohawk hasn't logged onto here since 2nd April 2018, so unlikely he'd see this @seth

So having scrutinised the wiring diagram for a K4, what I make out is the following:

- Br/B goes to the ECU
- B/W goes to the clutch switch
- Y/B goes to the Fuel Level Gauge
- GR goes to the Ignition Switch

(don't ask me to decode the colours as I don't have a 14, but am assuming Br/B is Light Brown and Brown, B/W is Blue/White, Y/B is Yellow/Brown and GR is Green (but could be Grey)

So from that little lot, I'm guessing that the "sensor" per se is actually the ECU itself.

So as a first step, my suggestions would be:
- pull the plug off the ECU, clean both the plug and the connector with contact cleaner and re-assemble
- pull the 2 wires off the clutch switch, clean and re-assemble (not that there is a small hole under the clutch switch - if after removing the 2 wires you take the clutch switch off, you might be able to drip some contact cleaner in there as well.
- pull the plug apart that comes out from under the tank towards the battery, clean with contact cleaner and re-assemble (you may have to unbolt the bar the fuel tank bolts onto to get to it, depends where the wire was connected last time the tank was off)
- pull all the plugs for the clocks off inside the headlamp, squirt both parts with contact cleaner and re-assemble.

If none of that works, then, it's one of 2 things IMO
- the ECU is not sending the signal
- broken wire somewhere in the loom - you may need to put a meter across the various connections
- dry joint in one of the plugs - I've had that before many years ago on a Kwak, where it would start and then die as you let go the starter switch - turned out to be a dry joint on the power wire into the coils.

If none of the above - then I'm plumb out of ideas!!!

[seth]

Cheers @gsxbarmy
@muzza55 it might be handy if folk know where you are and what year of bike you have.
as what barmy says check all connections and see if it helps.
The other suggestion I have is find another member with the same year of bike as yours and see if you can do a quick swop of clocks and ecu between bike and see if the problem move bikes to isolate the fault .
Least then you'll have a clue .

[VladTepes]

Yes the rpm reading is sent from the Ecu to tacho.

[Hooli]

Aye the ECU will get the revs from the crank sensor I'd expect.

As said above try the ECU connections and all the multiplugs up to the clocks - my guess would be the ones in the headlight as they get disturbed more often so are more likely to have a bad connection.

[muzza55]

sorry for late replies people, I do bloody sift work so not always able to log on.
I am in Newcastle, NSW. It is an '04 with 78k on the clock I was left it by a distant uncle who had it sitting for ages, I've cleaned it up reasonably well just chasing gremlins to try and get it right, they are a big mother eh  fuel gauge wasn't working, have sorted that, the tacho I haven't really tried as electrickery is not my strong point hence the queries here before I start blowing things apart.
Thanks all for your thoughts, I think it may be time to start and pull apart and clean all the connections as suggested then if need be dismantle the clocks for a closer look, I will let you know what I find, thanks again for your help.
muzza.

[muzza55]

been awhile since last post, family and work before fun they say, anyway after stripping the clocks out I found that it must have had a drop at some time because although the chrome cases and surrounds are all good the internals had been smashed up a bit and stuck back together using wood f^%king glue. I have been chasing a set of replacement instruments for a month or so here in OZ but can't seem to score any. My son gets onto Yahoo and Buyee in Japan a fair bit, he plays around with Honda MC22 an RVF/VFR 400RR's, anyway he has found a set for me, the question is that the Japanese set only go up to 180kph whereas the ozy ones show to 240kph, considering my CBRXX speedo takes it readings from the gear selected and crank sensor and hoping the Suzuki would be the same would it just be a case of swapping out the speedo facia covers or is a speedo healer gunna be needed. 
Thanks again for any advice, assistance given 
muzza

[Blubber]

The 14 gets its speed input front the front sprocket,  I am guessing it's just a speedo facia swap.

[muzza55]

thanks for the insight, muzz

[muzza55]

g'day again, as stated this 14 is a project so I haven't been able to get to it for a while since last post.
I have checked the wiring from the ECU through to the headlight plugs.
On the wiring diagram it shows wire 4, Brown and Black as being the tacho feed, so I checked the wires from the tacho to the instrument connecting plug on the main harness, yep Brown and Black , so, I check continuity from ECU to the the instrument plug end, nope nothing, pulled the large grey plug near the air box apart and have continuity from ECU to there, as a mater of course I checked the other side (Brown and Black) of the grey plug, and there is continuity there, so I follow this other side wire and it goes down to a plug that has 2 white wires in it now these 2 wires go down to the Crankcase Oil Temperature Sensor. Back to square 1, I check the main harness instrument plug end in the headlight case and the corresponding wire,(Brown and Black on the instrument plug) actually is Black and White (main harness) check the wiring diagram and the 5th wire exiting is black and white so I check connectivity from ECU to the harness instrument plug end, and yep continuity. WTF is happening have I got some sort of bitsa ?
Electrickery is my weakest point but it seems that I have either the wrong harness or ECU, maybe ?
Any thoughts.
muzz
 

[muzza55]

Is there anyone in the Newcastle NSW area that would be willing to let me put my ECU in their 14 to see if it is at fault with the tacho not reading/working, it would have to be an '04 or earlier though, thanks in advance.
muzza.

[GSXKING]

Mine hasn't worked for many years  it goes through the wind up at starting but then nothing. I'm so used to "hearing" the bike now I think it would freak me out if it started working