Ignition Switch

[DanGSX]

I managed to pick up an entire lockset for my K2 on eBay for £120. Come off a 16k mile bike and the parts are immaculate - looks like they've not seen the bad weather. Even the rubber seal in the tank cap looks brand new. Came with 3 keys as well. Result. I'll just continue dealing with the existing set I have on until it fails, then get them switched out eventually.

Cheers all.

[Mick_J]

Well done Dan, I hope that when the old key fails you are close to home 

[DanGSX]

Well done Dan, I hope that when the old key fails you are close to home 

True that. Don't fancy pushing this lump!

Will keep my breakdown number on me handy for when it does happen, although I'm hoping it gets a little worse to the point I can say "It's time to change!"

[VladTepes]

So if I were to have a key that is simply cut from a normal blank, with no chip, then the bike wouldn't start at all?

[KiwiCol]

Yep, correct Mike - unless,

it's a possibility, if you had the bent / worn key handy to the ignition barrel, where the antenna is, the new unchipped key could well work.  The chip in the old key being recognised by the aerial & the new key turning the lock.  Be worth a crack if the new unchipped key wasn't dear, just to see if it works or not.

[gsxbarmy]

Yep, correct Mike - unless,

it's a possibility, if you had the bent / worn key handy to the ignition barrel, where the antenna is, the new unchipped key could well work.  The chip in the old key being recognised by the aerial & the new key turning the lock.  Be worth a crack if the new unchipped key wasn't dear, just to see if it works or not.

I'm not at all sure that that would work. IMO the chipped key must be in the ignition.

[grog]

Im not sure on 14, but cars i come across thru work, chipped key just needs to be close to reader antenna not inserted in barrel.

[KiwiCol]

Go get a cheap key cut Mike so we can know the answer.


If it had to be real close, you could stick it (bit of epoxy) to the under side of the yolk close to the ignition barrel & it'd be there permanently & nobody would ever know.  The 'chip' bit is in the handle part, not the shaft that goes into the barrel., so could cut the extra length off & just glue the square bit underneath.

[Alan Moreton]

Hi Guys.

I have just carried out the switch clean, that Northern very kindly put up on the forum a little while ago.  Massive success!  Thanks Northern.

I was having starting troubles, with the FI light flashing, but would clear if I flicked the kill switch.  I had it down as a problem being caused by the META alarm.  So a week or so ago I pulled the alarm off.  The staring problem remained, but the bike ran better than it has done for months!  So result all round.  Thanks Northern.

Regards

Chip

[northern]

Alan, I'm glad, sharing my experience was useful to you. You kindly welcome

[Masterbates]

Just giving a quick thanks to @northern for posting the photos and info on the ignition clean out. 

Bike started throwing C42 error codes randomly over the last week to 10 days, followed the photos and gave everything a good clean out... Problem solved.   

[Gazdob]

Can anyone please help is the ignition switch on a K3 D. C. or A. C.?

[Hooli]

DC. The only AC bit is the stator to reg/reg

[Big Phil]

Saw this on eBay today if anyone is interested. Could be a pile of dog dirt as it's very cheap to say the least.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ignition-Switch-Lock-Fuel-Gas-Cap-Key-Set-For-Suzuki-SV650-GSX1400-DL650-BE/353224095217?hash=item523dcbf5f1:g:sE0AAOSwWspfUKAs

[KiwiCol]

That looks a good deal Big Phil.