Help with bike lying up

[Suzuki boi]

Brought the fork over to a mates house who had a heat gun/blow torch.
Attempting heating it but no luck.
Trying pulling it apart again with some more force but no luck.
We noticed the seal was twisted so extended the tube and angel grinded most of it off then just forced the tube back past the seal.
Pulled seal out,tube came out
Went home and got the 2nd fork apart,tube out in about 20minutes.wtf!!!
Now to source 2 new tubes!!!

[seth]

Make sure you get the right stantions for your year of bike as there are 3 different sets for different years .

[T250]

Are the stantions errrrm.."its worse than that Jim their dead Jim dead Jim?"...

[Hooli]

Make sure you get the right stantions for your year of bike as there are 3 different sets for different years .

I thought it was only the lowers that changed?

[seth]

The fork tubes(stantions) are different to .

[Hooli]

Okey dokey, I've never touched the newfangled 14s just proper K2s (& once a k3) to notice.

[seth]

The lower end of the fork has different size hole to take different endstops (yellow or white plastic)
The damper hole near the lower end of the fork is in 3 different places on 3 different forks (Not sure what differences this makes)

[Hooli]

Ahh, I'd assume they are to line up with the flow from the different cartridges.

I'll stick to proper 14s (K2s) & leave the new fangled ones alone then 

[Suzuki boi]

Update on my little progress here.
Was busy trying to get the headers off as there all f**ked.
As I was loosening the header bolts the first one came off grand,then bam the second ones head snapped and the 3rd,4th,5th,and 7th and 8th
They all snapped right off even tho I had soaked them in wd40 for a few nights
So I never welded before and decided to buy a cheap flux core welder from lidl and give welding a nut on to the bolts a shot!
Nope failed miserably,nut snapped every time ,lidl welder obviously not good enough.
Don't wanna risk drilling it out so there's a lad I know that will give it a go with his welder.
So gotta take the engine out and bring it over to him. Can't wait
I've sourced 2 tubes from ABE (All bike engineering) for £90 a tube and £20 delivery to Ireland. That's a good price.
Cheapest here is €320 for 2.
Want your opinion on this from eBay.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F192560931934
Obviously these aren't genuine but would they do the job or will I need more genuine parts?
Working on other cars/bikes I know there's certain parts that should be OEM .

[Speedy1959]

I heard from someone on here (I think it was Andre) that the "All Balls" kits are fine..
I recently overhauled my own forks but used OEM Suzuki..
To be honest I didnt know about the All Balls kit at that time.

[Andre]

Yep, got them All Balls and they are fine (so far). The Dust cap, IMO, is certainly a superior design over the OEM.

Sorry to hear about them header bolts. A "pleasure" I have yet to look forward to.

[Mick_J]

I've used all balls fork seals on my speed triple and they are fine.

[Suzuki boi]

Sound lads.
Was iffy as that one on eBay is about €50 home.
Quotes elsewhere I was getting was about €80-€90.
So its half the price!
I'll go ahead and order it 

[Suzuki boi]

Quick one for ya lads
I'm in the process of taking this engine out as I've no luck getting those bolts out of the headers
Haynes manual says take the front sprocket off,but thing was tightened by the Hulk himself,so I'm thinking it says to remove front sprocket to get the chain out of the way.
Could I just cut the chain and leave the front sprocket attached??
Looks like it would work but thought I'd ask before something else fucks up on this bike !!!

[seth]

The front sprocket is at a very high torque so a pain to get off .
You will be able to remove the engine with out removing the sprocket for what your needing to do.