Fork seal procedure info

Started by Speedy1959, Friday, 13 July 2018, 03:41 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

V_i_c_i

Quote from: Speedy1959 on Monday, 16 July  2018, 04:13 AM
Hi all,

Well I removed the forks and the fork springs / washers and spacers and most of the internals including the very thin hollow tube....
Seth you were correct..Mine is 100% a K4 model fork even though my reg is March 2005 !
The forks are all in bits BUT the recessed allen bolt just spins round and round and turns the remaining rod and innards with it!
I know some of you reckon you can use a broom handle but how on earth do you fit a broom handle into the fork tube when there is a thin rod in there..
Even if the rod wasnt in there I cant see how a broom handle would magically hold the innards firm so the allen bolt could be undone !

I am not keen to take the forks to a mechanic in the state they are now in because they usually get a crappy on with DIYers having a go and not succeeding !!

Key is cut broom handle. But you have to cut it obliquely. Do long cut, at least 10cm. Then put cuted broom handle between tube and inner rod and still pushing on when loosing the screw. It works. Sorry for my english, can“t explain better.

Andre

#16
Fork tool is easily made. The 2-nose version is the simplest to make. Just takes the pipe and a saw. Didn't even need to drill a hole to put a handle in it; held it with a pair of pliers.

You might first try to temporarily put the legs together and proceed as I suggested before:

QuoteI have the fork tool but elected to undo the Allen bolt without it. Kept the fork leg (K2) assembled, preload set to max. Layed it on the ground, put a foot where the caliper mounting is (I don't have a vise) and unscrewed the sucker. Was easy going!

Could do the same to torque it up again later.

The broomhandle thing makes sense too. I would just be wary of splinters left in the leg if you use it to torque the thing later.

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk