Best laid plans

[Speedy1959]

I finished work early today so I thought Oooh goody I have some daylight to play with.
I had the hare brained idea that I could at least start the process of replacing the sprockets ready for the swing arm and chain replacement over the weekend..

I removed the sprocket cover and clutch slave cylinder and saw the beast...
A neighbour who is a biker happened to be around and so I asked him to apply the rear brake firmly whilst I got the breaker bar into action..
Absolutely no way did it move.. In fact I nearly toppled the bike off its centre stand (quite literally!)

I applied heat from a blow torch.. As much as I dare as I didnt want to knacker the oil seal !
I did it enough so that the GT85 I sprayed onto it sizzled and evaporated instantly.
Not even this worked ..
I am not willing to risk wrecking something in the gearbox to remove a sprocket that in my opinion is NOT desperately in need of replacement.
I shall content myself to a chain and a rear sprocket...
One day when I am next in need of a chain I shall leave it with the dealer to have "fun" with!

I have attached a photo.. The teeth are pretty good in my opinion.

Out of interest how hot could I safely heat it to?
I suspect the previous owner has used something like loctite permanent..

[seth]

They are on to a mega high torque you need a air or powered gun like tyre places have to get it off.
I have a powered one I use.

Also remove the allen bolt holding the Speedo drive before trying to remove the nut.

I've seen folk use a scaffold tube on a breaker bar with a good bit of timber in the rear wheel locked against the swingarm to stop it spinning but it's not really the way to do it .saying that if it works then sometimes you need to do things like that.
Just be very careful of both damaging anything (lots old towels around any wood) and snapping the breaker bar .

[Andre]

I assume you are talking about the speed sensor rotor as that is still in place according to pic. Right?

[Speedy1959]

Hi Andre..
That photo was taken just before i had removed the speed sensor.
Its the actual nut (32mm) I cannot remove..

I think I need to "pop" round to Seths place to let him use his machine gun !!!

[seth]

If you were closer it would be off in seconds
I've no idea why front sprocket nuts have to be so tight on modern bikes .my old gs1000 had 2x6mm bolts holding it on .
As there is no lateral load on the sprocket it's strange but they do come lose if not tightened to the full torque .

[Speedy1959]

Thanks Seth..
Sounds like a right pallarva..
But as always I thank you for your advice mate.

S.

[Andre]

Then the "machine gun" option is best. BTW it's called an "impact driver".

You could imitate that action by hitting the nut with a smaller socket first. If you are lucky that loosens some of the corrosion. Get a 3rd person to sit on the bike.

There should be a garage that will let you bring your parts and just charge you for the work.

[Kiwifruit]

Think l would be using some quality penetrating oil applied over a few days before giving it the impact gun. When using heat, think of the oil seal on the other side of the sprocket.
As a word of warning and coming from someone who has lost plenty of bark in the past. Consider your flesh should anything slip or break. Leather gloves at the very least could well be your friend.
Put new sprockets on it. Your new chain will be pleased you did. 

[seth]

Don't use heat on it
If you damage the seal behind it there is a spacer between the seal and sprocket that probably the hardest thing to get off the gearbox output shaft known to man .I remember someone took days to get one off once.
A good clean some penetrating oil , an impact gun(some hire companies do hire these or hopefully a friend has one) and it'll take seconds or be very careful using the locking the wheel and a strong breaker bar method.

[Kiwifruit]

Yes you are quite right Seth .....
I should have added....
When using heat think of the oil seal on the other side of the sprocket.. SO DONT !!

[Mister Fishfinger]

I have recently started using "Degrip All" spray by Soudal, after a recommendation on another forum (pardon me):

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOUDAL-DEGRIP-ALL-400ML-SPRAY-PENETRATING-OIL-DISSOLVES-RUST-CORROSION-/140938448893

It's cheap enough and so far it seems to work a lot better than WD-40 and the like. A bit of that, a few times a day for a few days, won't cost you much and well worth a try.

And +1 for rattle guns although there is a limit to their powers. The ones mechanics use are beefier than what I have at home.

[seth]

Only thing to remember is you need to be able to fit a new nut after it's the torque (115N-m or 83.2 lb-ft)holding it on that the problem cleaning the rust will help everything tho.
I'll post a pic of my impact gun and it's well up to the job .

[froudy]

You're lucky it's still done up tight Mr Fishfinger..
Mine usually loosens itself off and I have to check and re torque it up every so often..I threadlock it in place too!
The only part I've never managed to get off (never really tried that hard either) is the collar on the output shaft behind the sprocket..That is totally "welded" in place

And electric "windy gun" will pop that one of your's straight off in about a second

[seth]

Cheers froudy that's the same as i have

[Kiwifruit]

Clean up the exposed thread the nut will run over on the way off.
Nice impact gun boys