Titanium or S/S ?

[Notty]

My winter list includes changing the remaining bolts ( discs and rear sprocket )- so which is best ? Titanium or S/S as not much different in price and I don't do colours ! 

[Del]

If there is not that much difference in price I would always go for Titanium - it is lighter and Im fat 

[gsxbarmy]

Depends on which bolts Notty.

For the Caliper Mounting bolts and rear sprocket nuts I would go Titanium, for the Disc Bolts and Caliper body bolts then Titanium if you can run to it, if not then Stainless A4 (Marine) Grade.

Reason for the Caliper Mounting bolts and Sprocket Nuts is that titanium is stronger than S/S and those bolts and nuts take a hell of a lot of pressure.

[T 24]

Do not use SS (A2 or A4) bolts in any critical places. A bad property of SS is that it is hardening under heavy alternating or vibrating load and finally it is breakinng.
SS is great matherial in marine and industrial applications and "bling bling", but not under hard vibrating or alternating load.

[Notty]

My winter list includes changing the remaining bolts ( discs and rear sprocket )- so which is best ? Titanium or S/S as not much different in price and I don't do colours ! 

went for the titanium - bad news is someone has previously tried to remove the discs and 3 on the front are rounded off and one on the back !! any ideas? 

[Blubber]

Flapdisc in your angle grinder or wack a torx bit in the rounded hex hole.. Depending on your tool options 

[Kiwifruit]

If there is not that much difference in price I would always go for Titanium - it is lighter and Im fat 

Not fat Del......'well insulated' 

[gsxbarmy]

My winter list includes changing the remaining bolts ( discs and rear sprocket )- so which is best ? Titanium or S/S as not much different in price and I don't do colours ! 

went for the titanium - bad news is someone has previously tried to remove the discs and 3 on the front are rounded off and one on the back !! any ideas? 

Small bits of aluminium foil across the holes, and keep pushing them in until the allen key gets firmly locked in the hole. You can then try undoing it, if it locks but won't move, a sharp rap with a mallet.

Doesn't always work, but I've had reasonable success over the years.

[Kiwifruit]

OK.....someones got to say it.
Failing all else and after applying penetrating oil I have used a SMALL sharpened cold chisel with great success.
If you have access to a welder you could weld a nut to it. Weld through the centre of the nut.

[grog]

T24, correct, no stainless to be used in load bearing stuff. good old high tensile is needed. A2 and A4 are same except A4 has a bit more chrome in mix, less corrosion, strength the same. lots of stainless kits sold for caliper bolts, not sure if a good thing. available for cars n bikes by reputable sellers, pro bolt etc. today i was at local bolt shop, still changing out original suzuki bolts, cant have many to go. bloke on phone while i was at counter waiting. he took an order for bolts, $4.20 each he told caller, my best price. bloke on other end ordered 10 thousand. 42g worth of bolts, they usually budget 200g per month of sales. one huge order. love to know what theyre for, never will. 

[Kiwifruit]

Interesting point about stainless lads. Now i think back i recall a bloke building a  midget speedcar frame out of stainless and many thought that was not a good idea. To this day I think chromoly is the go.....its tough.
So I guess you guys are saying stainless is not strong in a shear application.
I learned something new 

[Andre]

There is an issue with the torque setting for the rear sprocket nuts in the workshop manual which has been causing some grief.

6-32 Table item B: "102 N.m (10.2 kgf.m, 74.0 lb-ft)"
6-38 "Rear sprocket nut: 102 N.m (10.2 kgf.m, 74.0 lb-ft)"
8-35 Table last item: "Rear sprocket nut: 102 N.m (10.2 kgf.m, 74.0 lb-ft)"

2-25 Table last item (position 24) "Rear sprocket nut: 60 N.m (6.0 kgf.m, 43.5 lb-ft)

Various calls by members of a german forum (gsx-1400-forum.de) to "Suzuki" confirmed the info in 2-25. An experienced mechanic on the forum referred to a DIN-Norm Table for threaded steel bolts in aluminum which confirmed the 60 N.m.

Do secure with threadlock even though the service manual does not specify it. I use "LiquiMoly Medium Strength".