Stutter, Hesitation on acceleration

[Windy]

Hello All,
I recently posted a note about my bike hesitating when accelerating from low revs.
I had changed the filter at the bottom of the fuel pump and although this helped and I thought the problem had gone it hadn't.
After much searching by checking shim gaps, TPS sensors, changing the plugs and cleaning and balancing the throttle body it turned out to be the coil that goes to 1 and 4 breaking down. The bike still ran as though it was OK but at low revs it was showing the fault.
I have seen that a few Ladies and Gents have had an issue with this kind of thing
The only issue is that Suzuki have now stopped making the part which made it hard to source.
Safe riding 

[grog]

well found mate. glad its fixed. we find at my garage lately, lots of cars with coil faults. expensive some of them, coil over plug units.

[Andre]

Thanks for the Info on discontinuation of the coil.

Still found it new at www.bike-parts-suz.com

33410-42F00 Left coil (1+4)
33420-42F00 Right coil (2+3)

110 pounds each.

[seth]

also check other suzuki's as im sure other models like gsx1250 bandit and  other similar bikes 600 amd biker will use the same coils.

[Andre]

Same coils, same part numbers. Right?

[seth]

should be .

[Bigyin14]

Hi how do I test the coil packs thanks guys

[seth]

@Bigyin14
You can download a full Suzuki workshop manual here in the downloads .
It tells you there .
Also head over to the bar and introduce yourself.
Where are you at as your name hints you might be from up here in Scotland.

[Bradders]

Hi All, I have been having hesitation on my bike under sharp acceleration from low speed. The bike has a slight pause or sometimes a couple of pauses then goes. I've cleaned both fuel filter, balanced the throttle bodies and checked the HT coils, also checked TPS and STPS all are fine. The low speed running showed a slight improvement but the stutter on hard acceleration remains. My feeling is that is fuel related, any suggestions? Injectors?

Thank Guys

[Hooli]

Try disconnecting the clutch switch after you've started the bike & then ride it.

They change the fuelling & ignition maps for easier starting when the switch is engaged & I've seen the odd one where the spring inside breaks so they don't turn off when you let the clutch out.

Also check the vacuum pipes aren't split or damaged, they tend to go brittle with age & affect running at low throttle and/or under about 3k rpm (above that the MAP sensor they connect to isn't used).

[Will14]

I had similar for a long time, tried all you have done and much more tbh. In the end I replaced the throttle bodies with a used set off ebay which initially I thought had 100% done the job including poor cold starting however albeit very very minor there was still some hesitation and slightly lumpy idle, so although they looked OK I replaced the VAC pipes and all was good no hesitation and very smooth at low speeds again with no hunting (I changed the plugs to iridium at the same time but feel it was the vac lines that helped most) I still had a bit of a niggle in my mind as the reed valve gaskets had started to go hard after 23 years so I bit the bullet as Robinsons had the reed valves on offer at £25 each rather than £110 each (you cant just buy the gaskets) I fitted them with new home made blanking plates before going on hols a couple of weeks ago, took the bike out last weekend and there is a real difference again, so smooth and responsive in all gears & it feels like a new bike and goes like shit off a shovel, just how I remember my first 14 some 15+ years ago giving the boys on plastic pocket rockets a run for their money