Next Oil Change

[Andre]

In future oil changes, I will drain the oil cooler as well by disconnecting the lower connections of the oil cooler hoses. It makes no sense to leave one liter of used oil in the system. Additional cost would be one liter oil and 2.50 € for the two o-rings.

Oil used will be "semi-synthetic" Motul 5000 10W-40 and original oil filter.

Inspiration from a user on facebook, Enrico Barbetti (Suzuki GSX 1400 group).

[KiwiCol]

Sounds fair enough, bit more work than most of us on here go to, but each to their own.  Just a point to remember, Suzuki aluminium has the strength & consistency of firm putty, so be very careful doing up those oil cooler bolts - use of a good torque wrench is essential.
Some folk have even stripped the sump bolt using a torque wrench set to the proper setting.

[Andre]

Thank you for the heads up. Much appreciated!

[Tony Nitrous]

I have a bag of O-rings as it makes getting the filter out easier with the Yoshi full system.

Something I thought about, but never got around too, was a new oil line with a different fitting (thread on fitting to an adapter plate) so I didn't need to touch the bolts into the cases each time.,

[Andre]

Tony, that is an intriguing idea.
Do you put copper paste on the bolts or do they come out easy without ?

[RickC]

Whilst it is probably the best thing to do; most bikes are getting over 200000 kms with just regular oil changes.

I'm not sure that it is worth the effort.

[Andre]

For a retired perfectionist with close to no responsibilities it is well worth the effort. Before I go to sleep, I can envision the parts (I hopefully never see in reality) sparkle 

[Gra Har]

I never ever though about that, so I went and had a look just now to see if any part of the oil cooler hoses are below the drain plug, they aren't. Now I'm NO trained mechanic, but common sense says to me that if the oil is hot when you remove the drain plug 99.9% of the oil should drain out - correct?

[KiwiCol]

I never ever though about that, so I went and had a look just now to see if any part of the oil cooler hoses are below the drain plug, they aren't. Now I'm trained mechanic, but common sense says to me that if the oil is hot when you remove the drain plug 99.9% of the oil should drain out - correct?

Suzuki use the oil as a cooler for the engine as well as lube. There is a valve that opens once a certain temp is reached, oil flows through the cooler, once engine internal temp cools, the valve closes again. (trapping the oil in)  You'd have to have the engine bloody hot to hold that valve open whilst doing a change, even then, I reckon it'd close part way through the change.

[Gra Har]

I never ever though about that, so I went and had a look just now to see if any part of the oil cooler hoses are below the drain plug, they aren't. Now I'm NO trained mechanic, but common sense says to me that if the oil is hot when you remove the drain plug 99.9% of the oil should drain out - correct?

Suzuki use the oil as a cooler for the engine as well as lube. There is a valve that opens once a certain temp is reached, oil flows through the cooler, once engine internal temp cools, the valve closes again. (trapping the oil in)  You'd have to have the engine bloody hot to hold that valve open whilst doing a change, even then, I reckon it'd close part way through the change.

I should have said "NO trained mechanic" have made the changes, sorry gang. I do change the oil when the engine is very hot, so, I'm hoping that valve stays open, there was a lot of oil come out on the last oil change I did. I didn't measure it, should have though, but saw no sense in it as I always fill up to the full mark in the sight glass on the centre stand, then start bike, run until hot, check for leaks, let cool, drop onto side stand, hold bike upright and topup to full mark again - that all make sense?

[Tony Nitrous]

Tony, that is an intriguing idea.

I only considered it because I'd rather remove an oil line than a down pipe
when doing oil changes with the Yoshi system, but the benefit of draining the
cooler makes it more appealing.

To be honest, I haven't really looked into it,
but this was the sort of fitting I had in mind....

(The L shape fittings in centre of pic the hose can be removed from
without touching the engine cases)

[Andre]

@Tony Nitrous

I just looked (eye balled) at my oil cooler. An adapter plate is not needed. Just 4 of the L-shaped fittings. Two go on the engine case and 2 on the oil cooler.

The fittings and hoses can be had at http://auto.helperformance.com/hose-and-fittings
Same place that sells what is in the picture you posted.

Hoses can be had in "silver" or black.

[Andre]

@Gra Har

When I did the oil change with filter, I added exactly 4.8 liters. I too wondered where the 0.9 liters were. Looked at the oil cooler and thought that the oil in there should drain due to its pipes position on the case.

Thanks to @KiwiCol for explaining why the oil in the cooler does not drain.

[Gra Har]

Does anyone know how hot the engine has to get for that valve to open? On wifey's GSXR600 when I do oil change, I warm up until the radiator fan comes on, forget what temp that is now, 86 I think. When I warmed the GSX14 up to do the oil change the fan never comes on at the oil cooler, I can say the engine was plenty warm enough to drop the oil out.

With no engine temp gauge one has no idea how hot the engine is. I guess city riding would have the engine running at much higher temps than country escapes. On the VFR800 I had for 9 years the fan never came on until 104degrees and would drop rapidly to 96 before it went off. That bike was a beauty, I did 150,000km on it untouched, except for the regular fluid and filter changes.

[Andre]

As to the valve opening temperature I don't know. The oil cooler fan is set to come on by 110 degree celsius. The SACS (Suzuki Advanced Cooling System) is very efficient.

You will be hard pressed to get the fan to come on. Try a hot day with stop and go traffic or let it idle for a long time.