Possible Clutch Issue?

[imweirdimnotsocial21]

Hey y'all, this is the first bike I've ever owned with a hydraulic clutch. I bled it, but for my liking, it still starts bitting kinda "late". Again, for my liking. When I detach the clutch slave cylinder cover and I observe the mechanism pushing the rod in the clutch pack, it only moves a little bit. Is that expected or not?

How would you compare this clutch with a standard cabled one for example? I am asking since I like an early hitting point, maybe 50mm-80mm post releasing after I clasp it fully.

[KiwiCol]

I can't recall exacctly how far the slave cyl moves the rod, but it's not much, maybe 5mm?   

[Eric GSX1400K3]

Yes, the pushrod doesn't move much at all.  Careful bleeding of the clutch line to remove any trapped air. Braided stainless lines are better than oem rubber that swell and stretch.

Clean the slave cylinder and pushrod from all the road grime and chain lube to avoid dragging thod into the slave and engine casing as then its engine strip down if it seizes in there.

Have a read on here,been covered many times before.

Re bite point, assuming you have original levers, these have an adjuster wheel to set reach. Clutch bite point isn't adjustable as its set by the clutch plates, a late bite would indicate nearly worn friction plates or springs if no air in the line.

Master cylinder can also leak, the rubber seal boot perishes over time.

Most prefer a bite point just after the handlebar, some like it later,but that can't make the gearchanges snatchy. Each to their own I guess

[grog]

Mate, biting later is good. If you had air in line,  bulging hose, sticky pushrod it would be less travel,  earlier bite. Only adjustment is at lever.