Newby

[oldnick]

Howdy
I have just signed up. Sole transport for years was my faithful old VFR but I always Wanted a GSX1400.  Now I am finally going to get one. I would much appreciate any thoughts on specific things to look out for on the 1402 - I know the general bike stuff and will read through the threads of course, but I guess all bikes have their own eccentricities and weaknesses (can I say that on here ?!) so any pointers will be appreciated. Thanks

[Hooli]

Ayup, what model are you getting? the weak spots got a bit less over the years, not that there were many to start with.

Should all be covered in this thread anyway - https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=3137.0

[seth]

 


Things like sprocket carrier bearing is made of toffee and can only last 20k miles
Regular maintenance of fuel pump and teabag filter (have a look through the threads)
Other than that Regular (every 4k miles)  a good semi synthetic motorcycle oil & filter and away you
Go.
There are good folk here with a vast knowledge of these bikes so will keep you eight if required 😀
 

[KiwiCol]

Gidday Oldnick, welcome to the forum.

K2, 3 & 4 didn't have an immobiliser built in, but K5 onward did. Some K2's originally had an issue with 2nd gear, which was remedied  in later models. All engines have same power & torque (106bhp & 126nm) in standard trim. Basically a bullet proof engine but the frame can suffer with the salty roads you guys get.  Personally I find the 6 pots fine for my riding style, some like to change to 4 pots & feel they're better, comes down to personal choice I reckon. Twin or single mufflers? same thing, any style can be converted to the other, but there are issues with the centre stand and the left hanger is like rocking horse shit, thus bloody expensive if you can find one.

Good luck with your search.   

[Eric GSX1400K3]

Welcome mate, to add to that, keep the clutch slave cylinder pushrod clean, and retro fit the rubber seal from the Hayabusa as preventative maintenance.  Failure of this seal means engine tear down to replace.

Also, to stop muck building up around that push rod and seal, suggest to use a heavy gear oil as chain lube, not one of the commercial promoted lubes. Castrol VMX works best. 

Some had or have issues with the ignition barrel filling with crud, and the head stem bearing seizing as the originals left the factory with little or no grease in them.

[grog]

oldnick,Welcome Mate. I dont get into which year or colour is best, just personal choice. Basically theyre all excellent. Obviously choose the best you can, serviced, no corrosion. Then the fun begins, i reckon it takes at least a year to go thru all the little adjustments, all written on here, then youll have a bloody great bike.The adjustments/ mods can really go on forever, mine seem to, not saying you need to, i just find it therapy.

[oldnick]

I posted this reply but could not see it so here goes again - sorry if it is on twice. I'll get it right eventually.

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm not set on a specific model year. I prefer the look of the twin pipes to the later single but that's about all and it wouldn't be a deal breaker. I read online somewhere that later bikes had a cylinder wall coating which sounds useful - it will be written up on here somewhere I guess. Thanks again for the tips.

[Hooli]

The engine basically didn't change for any year, barrels etc are all coated the same.
Bar the immobiliser & better rear shocks from K5 onwards (early ones are known to seize the preload adjusters so check they turn) the choice is really down to what paint & exhaust/s you prefer the look of.

Don't be scared of a few miles on them either, they don't wear out. Mines almost at 180k miles & still runs as sweet as ever.

[Mick_J]

Welcome to the forum oldnik.  Other than what's been posted the only thin else I can add is that the lads in Japan who put the head stock in had to pay for their own grease so were a bit mean with it, so check the head bearings.

[T 24]

Welcome oldnick

[Andre]

 

I read online somewhere that later bikes had a cylinder wall coating which sounds useful - it will be written up on here somewhere I guess.

All 14 models have that coating.

No idea who put this myth up first.

The coating is SCEM, which stands for "SUZUKI Composite Electro-chemical Material".

[Boa]

Welcome aboard Nick

I'm pretty local to you, living in Stratford and my partner is in Badsey {she rides as well). Who knows, maybe there's a ride-out to be had. I haven't met up with Rynglieder this year, but we have bimbled together in the past.

[seth]

Gidday Oldnick, welcome to the forum.

K2, 3 & 4 didn't have an immobiliser built in, but K5 onward did. Some K2's originally had an issue with 2nd gear, which was remedied  in later models. All engines have same power & torque (106bhp & 126nm) in standard trim. Basically a bullet proof engine but the frame can suffer with the salty roads you guys get.  Personally I find the 6 pots fine for my riding style, some like to change to 4 pots & feel they're better, comes down to personal choice I reckon. Twin or single mufflers? same thing, any style can be converted to the other, but there are issues with the centre stand and the left hanger is like rocking horse shit, thus bloody expensive if you can find one.

Good luck with your search.   

Left hangers are available on request
Me and my mate are remanufacturing them to order 

[Ginju]

The engine basically didn't change for any year, barrels etc are all coated the same.
Bar the immobiliser & better rear shocks from K5 onwards (early ones are known to seize the preload adjusters so check they turn) the choice is really down to what paint & exhaust/s you prefer the look of.

Don't be scared of a few miles on them either, they don't wear out. Mines almost at 180k miles & still runs as sweet as ever.

Rear shocks, after reading a report that they were prone to leak in the early days of ''the org'' 2003 I never altered mine, they  are still on and trouble free.

[MickyJB]

G'day from down under 👍🇦🇺