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Best performance mods?

Started by Michael Whitney, Monday, 19 June 2017, 02:48 AM

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DTTW

As Barmy said. Notice also that you may want to have your tank as empty as possible, it is heavy when full. Another point to consider: you don't want your fuel pump to build pressure and then disconnect the fuel line between throttle body and tank. I've been there and I got plenty of fuel all over the bike and yard! You can stabilize the pressure by opening the fuel cap for a short moment before disconnecting the line. Luckily I did not get any fuel on my face/eyes which then reminds me to always wear goggles and other protective gear when working on the bike. :)
Cruising with my R/B K5 since 2012
a.k.a Thunder Pants

Notty

Quote from: gsxbarmy on Wednesday, 21 June  2017, 11:35 PM
Taking the tank off is dead easy Michael:
- undo both side panels and remove
- undo the plug undo the rear two bolts
- undo the two rear bolts
- lift rear of tank up and sit it on a roll of packing tape
- on the nearside, push in the two clips holding the petrol pipe onto the injector rail. This can be a bit tight at first so gently roll it whilst gently pulling backwards towards the seat. Also a good idea to have some paper towel underneath, as it will drip!
- pull tank back gently whilst holding at back and front. You'll find it will also pull a long rubber pipe out from the offside rear (which will be attached to the tank), that's quite normal.
- put tank down safely on a workmate or similar to protect.

Re-fitting is almost the reverse, the difference is that you have to re-locate the rubber pipe on the offside - this runs down the frame tube and exits in the gap between the swing arm and frame

Simples :)
Put it on a workmate ? may have to ask them first I would think !! :smile2:
The older I get the better I was
The problem with retirement is that you cant take a day off

Andre

No need for putting it on a workmate or disconnecting the petrol pipe.

I have done it the following way:
- take the seat off and place a blanket where it was
- remove both side panels
- undo the plug under the rear two bolts
- undo the two rear bolts
- stand on left side of bike
- lift rear of tank up and pull it toward the rear
- turn the tank 180 degrees clockwise
- set it on the blanket
tank sits very stable there

Michael Whitney

So disconnect the fuel line from the injector rail rather than the tank? What about disconcerting the wires for the fuel pump etc?

gsxbarmy

Quote from: Michael Whitney on Thursday, 22 June  2017, 03:22 AM
So disconnect the fuel line from the injector rail rather than the tank?

Yes. Where it joins the fuel rail, you'll find 2 little clips you push in on the side of the fuel line, keep those pushed in as you work it back off the fuel rail

Quote from: Michael Whitney on Thursday, 22 June  2017, 03:22 AM
What about disconcerting the wires for the fuel pump etc?

That plug I mentioned that runs under the 2 wires at the back of the tank? That's it. Undo that plug and you've disconnected the fuel pump etc
Nothing to do.............all day to do it....I love retirement :lol:

RickC

The Suzuki service manual can be found here if you haven't found it already, it has pictures on how to take your tank off but it's pretty well the way everyone described - http://gsx1400owners.org/forum_test/index.php?action=downloads;cat=6

FlyWheel

Quote from: Tony Nitrous on Monday, 19 June  2017, 03:54 AMYour pretty limited on improvements without using a PC111.

Anyone serious about getting the bike to run its best and making a few more ponys will be looking at a full system, Yoshi or Akro, PAIR blanks to get it running clean and a true A/F reading, and some dyno time with a PC111. Not cheap, but anything less is going to have little effect other than a placebo effect from just loud cans.

To me the next stage after that would be cams. I wouldn't bother with any airfilter changes.

If I had a stock 14 that would be my route. Standard bikes aren't that bad, but there's no $50 fix to getting great improvements IMO.

I know this is an old thread, but while looking for answers to similar questions on the topic of mods to obtain smooth running on my k7, I have to say this answer was exactly what I needed to see. Well said Tony Nitrous 👌

seth

Quote from: FlyWheel on Saturday, 19 October  2024, 05:21 AM
Quote from: Tony Nitrous on Monday, 19 June  2017, 03:54 AMYour pretty limited on improvements without using a PC111.

Anyone serious about getting the bike to run its best and making a few more ponys will be looking at a full system, Yoshi or Akro, PAIR blanks to get it running clean and a true A/F reading, and some dyno time with a PC111. Not cheap, but anything less is going to have little effect other than a placebo effect from just loud cans.

To me the next stage after that would be cams. I wouldn't bother with any airfilter changes.

If I had a stock 14 that would be my route. Standard bikes aren't that bad, but there's no $50 fix to getting great improvements IMO.

I know this is an old thread, but while looking for answers to similar questions on the topic of mods to obtain smooth running on my k7, I have to say this answer was exactly what I needed to see. Well said Tony Nitrous 👌

Firstly make sure its fully serviced and the tps/stps are set up properly and the throttle bodies are balanced .
Even smoother running can be achieved by
Removing the pairs system completely (very straightforward)
Adding a 4° ignition advancer or modifying the ignition back plate to give the same results
Instructions on both are in the "how to section"
A full free flowing exhaust system with a power commander and set upon a dyno will give some more power 10% but also improve fuel economy.
After that things get interesting and unlock even more power .
Good luck
only a slightly modified gsx1400
oh and a standard one too

Sethbot Postwhore

grog

Well said Seth, pretty much perfect explanation.A bit of maintenance, a few adjustments, turn the throttle👍

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