Replacing the Gear Shift Ball Joint(s)

[Phill P]

Halfords semi synthetic

[Hooli]

Halfords semi synthetic

Hmm, not that then as I use the same oil.

[Will14]

Halfords semi synthetic

Can you still get Halfords own brand semi synthetic oil? I looked online a couple of weeks ago & they didn't have it listed, called into two local stores and none there either, on a plus note they did replace my damaged trade card which reduces the price on most items I buy, by 20-25% 

I have gone with Motul 5100 this time, not changed it yet but hoping that it is as good as the Halfords Oil, The Rockoil currently in there doesn't give the same smooth box at all 

[Hooli]

My local branch didn't have any recently either. I was told they've changed supplier & they're awaiting new stocks. We shall see. I've got a gallon on the shelf for my next oil change, but I'd rather stick with it after that as mine has run on it for about the last 140k.

[seth]

I'd head to the download section here in the org and get a genuine full suzuki workshop manual for free

Mistakes are in the "genuine full suzuki workshop manual" as well. If the Haynes is like the manual I have (but don't use), they just copied the mistakes from the Suzuki workshop manual. It can be quite expensive to follow the instructions. Most errors are incorrect torque application. Using your brain can avoid at least some of the pitfalls.

Luckily I don't use a torque wrench as I don't fit new bolts only refit the old ones (tightening to the original torque will snap older bolts easily)
And for things that need to be really tight I use an impact gun .
Nothing has gone wrong yet but then again I've only been at this a short time (40 years on bikes)

[Hooli]

I'd head to the download section here in the org and get a genuine full suzuki workshop manual for free

Mistakes are in the "genuine full suzuki workshop manual" as well. If the Haynes is like the manual I have (but don't use), they just copied the mistakes from the Suzuki workshop manual. It can be quite expensive to follow the instructions. Most errors are incorrect torque application. Using your brain can avoid at least some of the pitfalls.

Luckily I don't use a torque wrench as I don't fit new bolts only refit the old ones (tightening to the original torque will snap older bolts easily)
And for things that need to be really tight I use an impact gun .
Nothing has gone wrong yet but then again I've only been at this a short time (40 years on bikes)

Says the man who's brakes fell off the other week   

[seth]

I'd head to the download section here in the org and get a genuine full suzuki workshop manual for free

Mistakes are in the "genuine full suzuki workshop manual" as well. If the Haynes is like the manual I have (but don't use), they just copied the mistakes from the Suzuki workshop manual. It can be quite expensive to follow the instructions. Most errors are incorrect torque application. Using your brain can avoid at least some of the pitfalls.

Luckily I don't use a torque wrench as I don't fit new bolts only refit the old ones (tightening to the original torque will snap older bolts easily)
And for things that need to be really tight I use an impact gun .
Nothing has gone wrong yet but then again I've only been at this a short time (40 years on bikes)

Says the man who's brakes fell off the other week   

That's true but HEL have replaced everything F.O.C. as they aren't sure there was also a fault with them .

[Hooli]

I'll order those then, it's only the floppy shift that makes mine feel old.

Back to gearshifts...

These turned up this morning. They look bigger than I'd expected, I'll see if they fit at the weekend.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

I'd head to the download section here in the org and get a genuine full suzuki workshop manual for free

Mistakes are in the "genuine full suzuki workshop manual" as well. If the Haynes is like the manual I have (but don't use), they just copied the mistakes from the Suzuki workshop manual. It can be quite expensive to follow the instructions. Most errors are incorrect torque application. Using your brain can avoid at least some of the pitfalls.

Luckily I don't use a torque wrench as I don't fit new bolts only refit the old ones (tightening to the original torque will snap older bolts easily)
And for things that need to be really tight I use an impact gun .
Nothing has gone wrong yet but then again I've only been at this a short time (40 years on bikes)

getting off topic i know, but re torque wrenches, I love em. A mate i have relies on his elbow or an impact gun. Case in point, we both got new caravans around the same time, both with the fancy D035 cruisemaster hitch pin setup. These need the pin on the hitch that fits the car to be torqued to 450Nm to stop it coming off and your van parting ways with the van. I did mine up with my large torque wrench to spec, my mate relied on his impact rattle gun. For fun I checked his after a run to and from our favourite camping spot, his hitch pin nut was at less than 50% of the required torque.  Not ideal when towing a 3t caravan over rutted and corrugated roads. Mine was still to spec.  So I rely on my torque wrenches a lot.

[grog]

Agree Eric,My last job if you fitted a wheel and didnt hand torque, instant dismissal.We also did the check after rattle gun tighten,results showed inconsistent torque many times.Many other reasons to use, stretch bolts, fragile bolts etc etc.

[grog]

Will, meant to mention. Years ago tested about 10 diff oils in 14.Briefly, slight noise change with some but gearchange notchiness definitely different with diff brands.A bit difficult as brands here vary a bit from UK.Actual winner was maybe the cheapest, the worst and dearest, terrible gearchange was Motul. Maybe a diff blend to you have, cant remember. Its price was about 5x Gulf Western,which i find works well.

[Andre]

gearchange notchiness definitely different with diff brands......Actual winner was maybe the cheapest,

I am not at all surprised that the "actual winner was maybe the cheapest".

IMO the difference depends on the amount and type of polymer in the viscosity index improver contained in the oil. More of the VI-improver reduces the noise. A higher mass of the individual polymer particle reduces the noise more. However, the higher the mass, the less shear-stability. Shear-stability determines the longevity of the VI-improver.

Think of the VI-Improver as rubber or plastic particles, then it should be how they reduce the noise.
Lots of VI-improver with low shear-stability is the obvious choice to reduce gearshift noise and improve smoothness during gearshift. To some, maybe the majority, this appeals as a good choice.  I don't belong to this crowd.

To make out the quality of oil by its ability to reduce noise and or notchiness during gearshift is misguided imho. I'd rather look out for the mechanical condition of the gearshift system and the way I initiate a gear shift. (Hey, I made it back to the original topic  )

I prefer oil (hint: NOT the cheapest) that doesn't need a lot of VI-improver to achieve the desired SAE viscosity spec.

[Hooli]

Will, meant to mention. Years ago tested about 10 diff oils in 14.Briefly, slight noise change with some but gearchange notchiness definitely different with diff brands.A bit difficult as brands here vary a bit from UK.Actual winner was maybe the cheapest, the worst and dearest, terrible gearchange was Motul. Maybe a diff blend to you have, cant remember. Its price was about 5x Gulf Western,which i find works well.

I'm not surprised, I found Motul the worst when I went through all the brands too. Crap gearbox & top end rattles.

[grog]

Andre, i dont know all that stuff, i do because you said.All i know is motor sounds fine, gearchange/clutch is good. No oil use between scheduled change, no smoke from exhaust,about all i need.

[Andre]

Any discussion about oil is pretty much useless. Just like religion, politics, climate change, gender, etc. etc.

Still like to throw my 1 1/2 cents in