Fit Yoshimura ST-1 Cams

[elderhome]

Has anybody measured lobe center degrees from yoshi ST- 1 or std cams? Yoshi ST-1 brochure says 105/105 degrees, but measured degrees? How about lobe centers of std cams with std sprockets?

You got the point!  I did check the oem LC number is 100/103.5. If you just bolt on the ST-1 Yoshi camshat,  you will find out it is far away off from the recommended LC 105/105! You have to redegree it for the recommendation setup properly. But it is not easy for DIY,  please consult to ur mechanic or experienced engine builder. Don't be shy!
PS.  As I know most of people just bolt it on without degreeing,  engine runs without problem but not in a proper initial setup!
After installed,  it revs from mid to high with linear power output and reduce engine brake a lot!

[grog]

Not sure if this is a dumb question. Would the standard cams be dialled in perfectly, from the factory

[T 24]

Not sure if this is a dumb question. Would the standard cams be dialled in perfectly, from the factory

There are no dumb questions.
Standard cams are in standard position, and they aren't able to adjust with standard, unmodified, sprockets.
The timing can vary a bit, when the timing chain is wearing or the cylinder head surface has been grind.
Timing of my standard cams was 99°/104°, if I can remember correct.

[Snorre Kristoffersen]

Has anybody measured lobe center degrees from yoshi ST- 1 or std cams? Yoshi ST-1 brochure says 105/105 degrees, but measured degrees? How about lobe centers of std cams with std sprockets?

You got the point!  I did check the oem LC number is 100/103.5. If you just bolt on the ST-1 Yoshi camshat,  you will find out it is far away off from the recommended LC 105/105! You have to redegree it for the recommendation setup properly. But it is not easy for DIY,  please consult to ur mechanic or experienced engine builder. Don't be shy!
PS.  As I know most of people just bolt it on without degreeing,  engine runs without problem but not in a proper initial setup!
After installed,  it revs from mid to high with linear power output and reduce engine brake a lot!

Hi! Do you remember how far from 105° the ST1 cam was at drop in? (did you have to adjust forward or backwards...?)

[The Stumeister]

Getting Yoshi cams fitted soon also. Is the running in time of just 300km enough...?
That's approx 180 odd miles and when running them in and keeping it under the revs as stated,will the bike still run fairly ok even tho the fuelling will be out etc..?

[seth]

 
500 miles total varied rpm but with these as a soft max revs
200 below 3000 rpm
200 below 4000 rpm
100 below 5000 rpm
Then an oil and filter change and dyno
Then full power available .
Not the law but this Is what I did and now got 30000 miles on mine since.

[nobby68]

Did my clearances today with yoshi st1 cams fitted

Left to right
Ex. 22 30.  20 22.  20 22.  22. 20

In. 17. 17.  17. 17.  20. 20  22. 22
Does any one have the correct clearances for the yoshi cams

[Hooli]

According to the pic of the instructions that come with the Yoshi cams in the first post on this thread...

0.18-0.22mm Intake
0.23-0.27mm  Exhaust

From memory that's a touch wider than standard cams, so you'd expect a little more top end noise once it's running on them.

[nobby68]

Cams have been in since 2002. When crescent Suzuki built engine , it just started making a ticking noise a bit louder than usual

[Kristen]

Hi

I purchased a set of Yoshi ST-1 cams for my K6 a couple of years ago but never got around to fitting them. Hopefully I am planning to get it done in the next week or two when i have time.

I have a couple of questions though please.

The label on the box the cams came in shows part number 211-114-0100 for K1-K5 models. There are cam sets listed on Ebay for bikes between 2001-2008, so I'm presuming that the cams never changed through the years and that the Yoshi set I have will work with my K6, even though the label only shows up to K5?

I'm anticipating a drop in the fuel economy of the bike. Will this be a significant drop please? I currently get about 45 mpg, getting approx 170-180 miles to a tank, don't use the higher revs that often, so i may decide against fitting them if the fuel consumption would be worsened drastically.

The bike setup includes a full Akrapovic with a shortened can, power commander 5 and autotune. I had welded a bung in the exhaust for the autotune sensor. The Power commander has had the map for the exhaust downloaded to it and i will download the map for the exhaust and st-1 cams, with the autotune doing any trimming in real time, so that should sort out the fuelling setup after. I have also already blanked the Pairs valves previously and may advance the timing by 2 degrees.

I have found the information in this thread useful and have a factory manual, so should be ok fitting them myself.

Thanks for your thoughts and replies

[Eric GSX1400K3]

Kristen, hi.

As far as I know the valve train is the same for all model years, so the Yoshi cams should fit. Others with more in depth knowledge will chime in I'm sure.  Your fuel economy will suffer, but the performance gain of these St1 cams and grin-factor should make it worthwhile.

Watching this with interest....

[seth]

I have the same set up
I can Confirm the cams are the same across all years .
Once run in and remapped they ride like a normal bike till you open the throttle.
Below 4000 rpm you'll get good mpg that's legal road speeds (I have had 200+ miles from my yoshi bike tank while touring in europe)
I have a map for a pc3 usb that would work well for running in on your bike but would highly recommend a proper dyno run and remap as soon as the 500miles is completed.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

Webike Japan has a runout deal on these, cheapest I've seen these ST1.

YOSHIMURA : [Closeout Product]Camshaft [ST-1][special price] [211-114-0100] (webike.net)

https://japan.webike.net/products/117469.html

[Kristen]

Thank you Eric and Seth for your replies.

For general riding i'm changing up between about 2.5-3.5k, don't go above 4 or 5 often and can't remember the last time i went wide open throttle. Usually the times when i may open it up in a lower gear like 3rd or 4th is when joining a motorway or dual carriageway from the slip road.

So if my fuel consumption wont suffer badly for normal riding then i will try them, i can always put the standards back in if i think it's excessive and im stopping for fuel too often.

New chain and sprockets arrived yesterday and front brake discs coming monday, so that's the priority for the moment. Rear teeth are wearing and a clicking from the front due to warped discs and the pads moving back and forth, resulting in fluctuating brake force, advised on the last mot. Better to get the braking sorted before making the bike faster lol.

[seth]

Thank you Eric and Seth for your replies.

For general riding i'm changing up between about 2.5-3.5k, don't go above 4 or 5 often and can't remember the last time i went wide open throttle. Usually the times when i may open it up in a lower gear like 3rd or 4th is when joining a motorway or dual carriageway from the slip road.

So if my fuel consumption wont suffer badly for normal riding then i will try them, i can always put the standards back in if i think it's excessive and im stopping for fuel too often.

New chain and sprockets arrived yesterday and front brake discs coming monday, so that's the priority for the moment. Rear teeth are wearing and a clicking from the front due to warped discs and the pads moving back and forth, resulting in fluctuating brake force, advised on the last mot. Better to get the braking sorted before making the bike faster lol.

For your clicking brakes check the big spring on the top of the calipers (that's held on by the 2 small screws on each caliper) as they settle and can let the pads move about.
Give them a slight bend in the same direction as the original bends and see as this can often fix a clicking brake .
Good luck