Ignition Advancer Modification

[VladTepes]

NOTE: This thread is also available to download as a PDF file from the Downloads (General) Section

WARNING: If you have a GiPRO with aTRE fitted to your machine, then you will need to disable the aTRE function before doing this modification otherwise you double the advance of your ignition (set the GiPRO unit to NORMAL mode - this disables the aTRE. You need then to "teach" the GiPRO to recognise your gears (so the gear display still works) by setting the GiPRO unit up in "L" mode". If you do not have or have lost your GiPRO manual a copy can be located in Downloads / Manuals -> GiPRO User Guide)

Step 1: First remove this cover:



Step 2: This is what's behind it:



Step 3: Undo the centre bolt in the rotor and then remove rotor, undo the 3 remaining screws, 2 hold the magnet on



Step 4: Once undone you are left with the base, undo the 3 screws that hold it in place



Step 5: Take plate out and put in vice to file holes, holes are to be done clockwise:



Step 6: Once happy with the filing job take back to the bike to see if you have done enough, I marked the standard position first (on the top of the plate) then another with the advance. With my bike the backing plate would only go about 3.75mm as it then hits on the bottom. 3.75mm is far enough for me as 1mm equals 1 degree when measured at the top of the plate, not on the filed holes. Check out the last photo for details



Step 7: Put the backing plate screws back in and tighten, next put the magnet and the other wire back on, BIG TIP make sure the magnet goes in the right way, I put it in upside down the first time and when I started the bike it ran like a piece of shit, needless to say I was pretty concerned at what I had done wrong. Through a process of elimination I found what I had done and fixed it and then it ran good.



Step 8: Put the cover back on, best to use a new gasket, but in my case after removing the cover again to find out what I had done wrong I used some Loctite gasket goo on it and it looks to be sealed.



Thanks to gsxbarmy for saving and collating this information.

[Mrg]

hi mik

not trying to sound thick here but what does this do for the bike ....    this is not my area that is all

thank you   

[VladTepes]

Dave?

I found this elsewhere - sounds likely....

Advancing timing basically means that your spark plug will fire earlier before TDC. What this essentially means is that it allows combustion to happen a little earlier BTDC than normal. This will give the combustion more time create the pressure from the explosion so when its going down on the power stroke, it tends to 'hit' harder. This will be more noticeable in lower to mid rpm ranges. However; it will hurt high rpm. This is mainly since the pistons are traveling faster they don't need that extra time to create the combustion pressure. Too advanced timing will cause pinging and pumping loses high up the powerband. Retarded timing will do the opposite, helping more on higher rpm and less on lower. Of coarse as far as performance goes, its always best to have the timing as far advanced as possible, but not to the point where it starts to ping (and thats when you know its too far).

If you don't understand it, don't do it.


In effect it's a mechanical (and much cheaper) way to accomplish one of the things you can do electronically with a Power Commander or ECU re-map.

[Blubber]

Did this 2 weeks ago, dead easy with these instructions. 

[Mrg]

yes mik

I follow what you said and this is something I will have  a go at 
it was something I wont to understand a bit more   thank you

[froudy]

I did this mod...Easy enough to do following the instructions.

I then fitted a GiPro with ATRE...Luckily someone on here spotted this and quickly messaged me. The mod on it's own is fine, but with the GiPro fitted it would have advanced the timing wayyyyy too much!!!

[gsxbarmy]

I did this mod...Easy enough to do following the instructions.

I then fitted a GiPro with ATRE...Luckily someone on here spotted this and quickly messaged me. The mod on it's own is fine, but with the GiPro fitted it would have advanced the timing wayyyyy too much!!!

A very valid point Steve, thank you. I have adjusted the top of this thread to add a warning saying exactly that, also updated the downloadable instructions 

[Andre]

Nice mod!
However, I have to disagree with your take on TRE in conjunction with this mod. Suzuki has restricted the timing in the lower gears by (edit: up to 3° - varies depending on TP) in the lower to mid rpms and only up to half-throttle. If you open up the throttle above half you get the normal timing (as in all other gears). They did this to reduce emissions. Maybe also to reduce snappiness at low acceleration. If you go 50 to 100% throttle you will have no restriction at all in the lower gears. They did not restrict the timing because of need to protect the engine!

If you eliminate timing restriction by using a TRE and advance the ignition timing in a reasonable degree you will not damage the engine as now you have the same advancement in all gears and rpms.

[roadstero]

Hi. I just made this modification in my 14 and not only has it been noticed in softness, but it has also gained in push in lows.
I think I have exceeded the progress and should have more of those 4 º that are discussed here; the fact is that the motorcycle does not suffer detonation, in the absence of testing it with much more heat, in which case it would delay it.

There I send you some photos in which it is appreciated that there is something more advance, without knowing how to quantify exactly how much.

[seth]

I think from memory that 1mm =1°
I wouldn't want to go more than 4°but it's your bike and i'll interested to see how it goes long term .

[Andre]

The pickup plate is a circle (with cutouts) and has a diameter of 100 mm. That gives a circumference of 314.159 mm. Divide that by 360 and you get 0.8727 mm for a degree.

0.8727 mm = 1°
3.4908 mm = 4°
1.7454 mm = 2°

4 mm advance would be 4.5835 °

Round the numbers as you please

I believe it was T24 who said that he got best results on standard bike with a 2° advance.

With a 4° advance I noticed an oil temperature increase of 5° C at the screw-in gauge and an increased difference between that and and the thermo-switch for the fan. No idea what the temps in the head are but safe to say it is "much" more. IMO the engine can take it (with 98 octane) but since I like longevity I put it back to original.

[seth]

Thanks for clearing that up buddy @Andre

[roadstero]

I will be more than aware of the possible signs of detonation, especially now that summer arrives, although in those circumstances, it is true that the heat given off by the engine does not invite much to take the bike.
Thank you for your answers.

[Hooli]

Don't forget with all this boys & girls that if you run higher octane fuel then you need more advance to run properly. The reason being the higher the octane the slower the fuel burn. Hence most engines these days have knock sensors to retard the ignition as required, it's so they can use the extra power of high octane but not risk damage on cheaper fuels.

[KiwiCol]

I didn't know that!  Fancy higher octane fuels having a slower burn rate.

Now here's a question, if you have the engine advance mod - say 4 degrees (give or take), should you now run 95 octane? to get the better performance?