Adjust your TPS

[Kevin271280]

The same large grey connector that is pictured in @RickC reply #1 can be used to read the resistance when adjusting the STPS.

You also need to remove the air filter. Stick a hand into the air box and close a secondary throttle valve (STV) by pushing it with a finger.

If you don't have alligator clips for your multimeter, have a mate do the STV closing for you.

The same large grey connector that is pictured in @RickC reply #1 can be used to read the resistance when adjusting the STPS.

You also need to remove the air filter. Stick a hand into the air box and close a secondary throttle valve (STV) by pushing it with a finger.

If you don't have alligator clips for your multimeter, have a mate do the STV closing for you.

So y9u say push just valve closed ? When adjusting stps?

I'm trying to sort mine . Git 1100 ohms closed 2800 open . Stps is not much play but maybe due to not sorting the vaove correctly in the air box . Please explain more elaborately if you would thank you buddyv

[Speedy1959]

Kevin..
You can only access the rod from the left side (Throttle adjustment screw side) of the bike..
Its very difficult to explain where it is as its done by feel..
Its possible to see with a mirror (as I did) to familiarize yourself with a layout you cannot actually see !!

Basically if you follow the Idle adjuster cable under the throttle body, the adjustment lever that you need to push is very close to where the cable sort of U bends..
Its a case of learning the feel of underneath the bodies and navigating from the adjustment cable..

In my case I spent 10 or 15 minutes feeling and gently pushing on various protrusions..
Eventually I felt the lever jobby (Their is only one) and it pushes upwards about an inch.
The photos will show what I mean by "navigate from the Idle adjuster cable".

My multi meter has the option of very small alligator clips which I fitted onto the Grey socket pins as in the photo..
Switched multi meter on and initially the readings were miles different from what is recommended, BUT I then re fumbled about and pushed the lever and the readings were still out but had moved a lot nearer..
I did this on my own which meant going back and forth to the STPS and adjusting it a bit then re take a reading with the lever pressed..
Took about 5 attempts to get it very close indeed..

So its certainly doable from beneath the throttle boddies without removing the air filter etc..

REMEMBER, this is only accessible from the LEFT side of the bike!!








S

[Hooli]

My preference is to poke the adjuster on the RH side between TB 3&4 to close the secondary throttles. As the SPS reads off TB4 you know it's fully shut then.

[Speedy1959]

With the greatest respect Mr Hooli,
Isnt there something to be said for "actuating" the Actuator?
In other words pushing the lever I highlighted is where the actuator is connected, so surely this would translate to an accurate enough reading at the ECU ?

Main benefit of doing it as I suggested is you dont need to remove / raise the tank.

S

[Hooli]

You don't need to move the tank doing it my way either.

I'd say it's 50/50 tbh. My way gives a more accurate reading of the TB it's reading but yours gives a better reading of the average off all four TBs.

When I rebuild the TBs I balance them with drill bits to make sure they are all set equally. Provided they aren't far out I doubt it makes much difference.

[T250]

This was posted before and explains why you get different readings at the big connector block vs off the sensor connector under the tank;

"The readings differ because when measuring at the grey connector the TPS and STPS are in parallel which will affect the resistance readings"

[grog]

Its like oil,tyres etc. Phew. I did mine years ago, she runs sweet, never bothered again. Must be a northern hemisphere thing to be so concerned.  

[Hooli]

This was posted before and explains why you get different readings at the big connector block vs off the sensor connector under the tank;

"The readings differ because when measuring at the grey connector the TPS and STPS are in parallel which will affect the resistance readings"

Which is odd as I've checked mine right back to the ECU plug when looking for an issue and they were identical all the way.

The sensors can't be in parallel because then the ECU wouldn't be able to read them individually. The power feed probably is, but that doesn't matter for calibration.

[hard road]

as I said in another thread I used my 2 multimeters and got a different reading each time !!! so i set the TPS the way Suzuki told me to do it using a dealer mode switch and the 3 lines on the dash. the STPS is a different matter though. 

[Will14]

as I said in another thread I used my 2 multimeters and got a different reading each time !!! so i set the TPS the way Suzuki told me to do it using a dealer mode switch and the 3 lines on the dash. the STPS is a different matter though. 

To be fair I wasn't even aware of the dealer mode function for setting the TPS, I spoke to a very good bike engineer and he totally agreed with you stating Suzuki's have been set up this way for years, he seemed a little surprised that I had gone to the effort to check resistances at both the multi plug and at each sensors plug

Out of interest when I got the bike home I put the bike into dealer mode and sure enough the small dash was in the correct position -C00 again out of interest I decided to loosen off the TPS and adjust to see if the small dash actually moved, it did but from memory I think I needed to go down to something like 700Ohm before it moved down and up to approx 1350ohm before it moved upwards, this made me realiSe that there is quite a large window for the correct setting of the TPS. Just a side note of anybody else tries this, after making the adjustment you need to take the bike out of dealer mode and back in to see the change, the ECU does not update the signal in live time

Cheers   

[hard road]

yep, same for most F.I Suzuki's   

[Hooli]

Setting the resistance is only a base calibration anyway. What matters is the return voltage the ECU sees.

[TomTom]

Thanks to all the information on this topic I have almost got the bike running spot on. It's way better than it was before. It was like an on/off switch shutting and opening the throttle. A bit more fine fettling will hopefully make it even smoother now that I have the expected readings on TPS and STPS. Thanks folks.

[T250]

Chasing this old chestnut again...Even though all my sensors were within spec I still had a problem just off throttle, which was a pain in slow moving traffic, after re-reading a post @Hooli about some testing on a Yank forum, I decided to take a punt and bought a complete set of secondhand throttle bodies with all the sensors and STVA for less than the price of just a TPS!

Anyway, I went through the checks comparing my original with the replacement and have attached a list of my findings, I did the same checks for the STPS and they were very similar.

I have put the new to me TPS on the bike, and it has cured my problem, I think once a voltage is applied while being driven this is probably where my old TPS was failing.

I measured at the sensor, I think the different readings of sensor/Big grey plug are due to the signal wire of each sensor goes direct to the ECU obviously, but the other wires of the sensors are connected to each other.

[grog]

Checked my TPS, never done before in dealer mode.Right in the middle👍 T250, we get that crap all the time with cars at work, sensor tests ok, new one solves the problem.