I've started a new thread regarding doing some work to my K7.
The plan is to check and replace if needed front and rear wheel bearings, sprocket carrier bearings and swingarm bearings/grease.
Because I need new tyres I figured I'd go over everything that can impact the ride, I'm not too worried about steering head bearing and grease so I won't be looking at that right now.
I also decided to replace the chain and sprockets even though I'm not sure if they need changing, I'm gonna do it anyway, cleaning off the old chain with all that goop from the spray lubes, I'm not inspired to do it, rather replace the lot. While I'm at the front sprocket I thought I'd put in that Clutch slave dust cover mod. I imagine there will be quite a bit of cleaning back there and yes, I'll attend to the push rod so as to look after the seal on the R/H side, the dreaded one.
As some will be aware, I ordered all the bearings from Wemoto and now know that they sell either All Balls or Slinkey Glide bearings, now we've all heard of Slinky Glide right :facepalm: Well maybe not, anyway I decided that I would not use them and bought Koyo brand bearings.
Most of what I need is still in the post and some not even in the post yet but today I received the Koyo sprocket carrier bearing and thought I'd start this thread off by showing you a pic comparing the All Balls to the Koyo.
carrier bearings.JPG
The one on the right is the All Balls, you can plainly see the Koyo has bigger balls, need I say more.
So now it seems obvious why the All Balls dies prematurely.
More to come as the work commences once ALL the parts are here.
So far I have the Carrier bearing and seal, the clutch slave dust cover and front wheel seals.
I bought another oil can and just received 1 litre of Castrol VMX 80W.
The tyres should be here tomorrow or Friday. The wheel bearings I bought from some place that now tells me they are out of stock so how long I wait for those is anyone's guess, don't you hate when you think you are buying something only to find out AFTER you give em the dough, they don't Fu#%#^* have them.
Also something strange going on with the chain kit as well, no idea when that will arrive, so far tracking says " shipping information received " great, Oz post doesn't even have the thing even after I emailed the bloke after hearing nothing for some days, he says sorry, he's been away and will "Express" it out asap, the next day I get tracking number, that was 3 days ago.
Originally I rang my usual bearing place but they had nothing, this is why I've had to buy online, go the 21st century. Wait til it's all cashless, that's another story.
So the whole thing is dragging out big time, I thought while I wait, I'll start the thread now just to show the diff between the two Carrier bearings.
Tyres arrived in the post today along with a small bag of lollies, love that, swallowed em up straight away :)
Angel GT 1s, $495 posted from Motorcycle Tyre Warehouse, best price I could find, front is from 2021, rear is 2022. I'd forgotten how much meat is on a new tyre :clapping:
Chain kit should be here tomorrow, still no word on the wheel and swingarm bearings :rolleyes: They may not need replacing but I don't want to start the work without all the parts, may need to ride the thing.
I'm hoping the whole lot won't take more than a good days work. Need a sunny day to soften up the tyres, that might be asking a bit much down here.
Some time later: Well I decided to start work even though the wheel and swingarm bearings aren't here, spent most of the afternoon cleaning the muck around the front sprocket and fitted the clutch slave seal, oh I hope to do it all in a day :happy1: hardly. I took out the carrier bearing, it was toast and stubborn to get out, got it out in the end without cracking the alloy carrier.
The muck you get on you, man I hate working with muck.
So tomorrow I'll see if my home made bead breaker works on the rear tyre.
Need to check the rear wheel bearings. Then it's off with the swingarm, hoping I can get away with just a greasing. If so I can put the rear end all back together and just do the front tyre and check wheel bearings.
Quote from: Nic on Thursday, 11 May 2023, 11:29 AMAngel GT 1s, $495 posted from Motorcycle Tyre Warehouse, best price I could find, front is from 2021, rear is 2022.
Did you go for the 50 or 55 rear, not a huge difference but I do prefer the 55's.
I have a pair of Angel GT2's that I might be taking off soon. Not sure yet if I'll use them elsewhere or post them up on here.
Quote from: Tony Nitrous on Thursday, 11 May 2023, 04:07 PMDid you go for the 50 or 55 rear, not a huge difference but I do prefer the 55's. I have a pair of Angel GT2's that I might be taking off soon. Not sure yet if I'll use them elsewhere or post them up on here.
Hi Tony, went with the 50, I have been tossing up whether to get the 55 because the 14 doesn't exactly fall into corners but I went with what I already have because I didn't want to have to stuff around working out the speedo, at the moment I know that 110kph is really 100kph, it wouldn't really be a big deal, I have this GPS speedo that I can clamp onto the handlebars and then you just ride around taking notes on the differences but with the 50 I have it all sussed. So with the 55, you say the 55 isn't a big diff but I bet you can feel it? Yes?
Also if it's a big deal, I have been thinking of dropping the front 1/2" or so but really, I don't ride in a way that it matters.
I tried a 55 & went back to the 50, I didn't like how unstable it felt on the 55. Horses for courses etc & mine drops into bends fine.
As for the swingarm, the worst I've ever seen is slightly rust coloured bits in the grease on the left hand side but the bearings were fine & just needed greasing. It always seems to be the left, I assume condensation dribbling down while the bike is on the side stand.
Rear tyre is on, what a joy that was, the zip tie method isn't the go with such a wide tyre IMO, I've done it with vintage 4.25 tryes and it worked a charm.
So the bastard's on, the rear wheel bearings feel good, the carrier bearing is in, the carrier has never looked so nice since new I'm sure. The cush rubbers, there's the slightest bit of play in there. Looking around for shims, I have enough of what looks like a good thickness for 2 shims, I need 10.
The chain kit is coming today, now I need to take out the swingarm and grease the bearings, then I can put the rear end all back together requiring only the front tyre to do, feeling hopeful the front bearings will be good. Love changing tyres, the only good news I have in that regard is my home made bead breaker did the job well.
Well I dunno if it's that the rear tyre killed my enthusiasm or what but I was looking at the swingarm thinking what to do first and then I saw this brake hose debacle.jpg
I wondered why the manual said to undo the brake hose, man I'm not into bleeding the brake, they couldn't have secured that poxy bracket with a couple of 6 mil bolts, or screws? Instead a hack job of rivets WTF, I've had enough, I'm not takin the swingarm out, looking at it I can see me going off for sure, I'm just not in the mood after doing that tyre.
I'm gonna clean all this horrendity off and call it quits, shaking head now.
Yes yes I know, I need to take a break, and that's exactly what I'm doing, maybe I'll make my own poxy bracket, grind those rivets off and drill n tap etc? I don't know how thick the swingarm walls are tho, maybe that's why they use rivets? The sidewalls you would think would be the same as the top n bottom and they put a bolt in the top. I know I could make a much better bracket than that Friday afternoon special. Hell, does it even need to be there.
I would like to grease the swingarm, it's not just that bracket, you can't see what's what up where the pivot bolt goes, I can see things falling out endlessly as I try to line it up for the pivot bolt. Need more of a break obviously. While typing this the chain kit arrived. I'll go wash the muck of the swing arm n see how I feel.
swingarm muck.jpg
Right then, after a break I got back into it and the swingarm is off. It looks like it was greased yesterday, it was good to give everything a good clean and it's also good to know the state of things. I don't know if that chain slipper has ever been cleaned, I got the bike with 61 thousand Ks, and I've put another 10 on so it was pretty nasty.
Slide out the bolt and just slide the swingarm out, noooo, I had to persuade it out side to side with a big rubber hammer. To my glee, there's nothing that looks like being a drama putting it back in. The shim is not there so no need to worry about that falling out when inserting the SA back in. Seeing as how tight it was I'm not gonna feeler gauge the thing either.
As for that brake hose bracket, I just cut it and bent one side back to get the hose outta there, not sure what I'm gonna do there yet, I know you're all dying to know.
swingarm off.jpg
Oh and don't look at that stupid poster thing about party'n and such. There's no parties around here, certainly not today although changing your own tyres will require a nice Scotch n coke later on, or two.
I was going to suggest you just cut that bracket if you're not inclined to bleed the rear brakes, but then I see you went & did that anyway. Just bend it back once you put the arm back in. The hose will stay in there & basically only you will know the bracket has an unofficial opening to it.
You bike lift cum work area looks interesting, wanna put up a couple more shots of that?
Quote from: KiwiCol on Friday, 12 May 2023, 02:03 PMI was going to suggest you just cut that bracket if you're not inclined to bleed the rear brakes, but then I see you went & did that anyway. Just bend it back once you put the arm back in. The hose will stay in there & basically only you will know the bracket has an unofficial opening to it.
You bike lift cum work area looks interesting, wanna put up a couple more shots of that?
Sure mate, but first, I thought I'd post a pic of the Friday afternoon bodge, I did as you said but with one magnificent refinement, I put a bit of plastic tubing over the join, you don't want your hose getting mongreled by where the two sections join, still a bodge tho and no idea how long the tubing will last but I couldn't just leave the ends of the bracket bare. I'll post a couple more pics of my 70s style bike ramp soon.
hose bracked bodge.jpg
What a bloody good write up Nic.. Well done!
I did a swing arm out job recently..
My bike did have the shim but what helped me massively to re insert the swing arm was to loosly attach the shocks then us a car juck under the square section cross bar on the swing arm and gradually pump the jack little by little..
It went surprisingly easily..
Great write up and photos mate, well done.
S.
Quote from: Speedy1959 on Friday, 12 May 2023, 02:41 PMWhat a bloody good write up Nic.. Well done!
I did a swing arm out job recently..
My bike did have the shim but what helped me massively to re insert the swing arm was to loosely attach the shocks then us a cer juck under the square section cross bar on the swing arm and gradually pump the jack little by little..
It went surprisingly easily..
Great write up and photos mate, well done.
S.
Well I like that mate, thanks a lot, I expected to get flamed because of my frustrations and what not. I do have a habit of going off :frustrated: In the end you take as long a break as you need, you know you'll end up doing it but that bloody tyre almost did me in and I've done a few but never a 190.
To get mine to line up I just had to tap it a few times with the rubber hammer. My rattle gun wouldn't undo the pivot bolt, I used a socket and an old fork tube from a Z1 kwaka, came undone easy, don't have a torque wrench for heavy stuff, just the old arms. Pics of my bench coming up.
Well done mate, great write up. one job I haven't done yet, bikesjust clocked over 50,000km in 20 years, I've put the last 16000km on it.
Agree with those nasty AB bearings, I've got a set of them in the rear wheel and sprocket now, a set of proper NSK on the shelf, hoping to rectify that soon.
Re bleeding rear brakes, dead easy really, plus then you'll know that the rear fluid is good. Note that the rear caliper has two nipples (like the poster), need to open both to get all fluid out.
Do you reckon you can leave the brake hose in the bracket if just re-greasing the pivot bearings?
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Friday, 12 May 2023, 03:07 PMWell done mate, great write up. one job I haven't done yet, bikesjust clocked over 50,000km in 20 years, I've put the last 16000km on it.
Agree with those nasty AB bearings, I've got a set of them in the rear wheel and sprocket now, a set of proper NSK on the shelf, hoping to rectify that soon.
Re bleeding rear brakes, dead easy really, plus then you'll know that the rear fluid is good. Note that the rear caliper has two nipples (like the poster), need to open both to get all fluid out.
Do you reckon you can leave the brake hose in the bracket if just re-greasing the pivot bearings?
Thanks Eric, Yes I spose you could, but I needed to get the arm well outta there to do some serious cleaning.
Pics of the work bench/ramp etc. Thanks for the interest.
The ramp is on wheels and slides under the bench once the bike is up. It's a bit scary putting the bike up there. You can push it up with the help of another, er indoors helps me, she loves doing it too.
Or, you can walk it up with the bike running, even scarier, it's best if you have someone on the other side just incase you lose it over that side. I'd love a real lift but can't come at the cost.
In pics 4 and 5 you can see one of my wheelie stools, really comfy, I have one for each side, they are on wheels and the exact height you want for working on the bench. They have 4" foam under the towel. Bloody beautiful.
The "strut" is just for a bit more peace of mind, it comes away via a take apart hinge, it is in place when the bike goes up, comes out for the ramp to go back under and then is put back in it's place.
The "stand stop" pic, the centre stand usually sits on a piece of steel sheet so as not to chew out the wood but I found that when you went to take the bike off the stand it would slide on the steel so I put a stand stop there because you need the space in front of the bike to get the bike off the stand, if it slides on the steel then you need to grab the rear wheel and pull the bike back, without the stop you'd never have a life.
When you click on a pic, be sure to expand it fully.
bench a.jpg
ramp b.jpg
ramp brackets.jpg
ramp c.jpg
ramp.jpg
stand stop.jpg
strut.jpg
Resized previous pics.
Nice bench, I really need something like that, my knees are not up to crawling around on the floor anymore.
Quote from: Nic on Friday, 12 May 2023, 03:18 PMPics of the work bench/ramp etc.
I have 4 of these...
(https://i.ibb.co/khLfqS9/2349-DA83-D73-B-44-EB-B51-E-EC01-BE798-DE9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9qxLyrV)
I don't use them for maintainence or daily use, but they are good for long term projects. Stuff I can put away for a while and pull out when I find parts and do jobs on them. I use my hydraulic benches to lift the bike then roll them on or off. I have a couple of long term projects so with these being on castors I can put them tight together in a corner when not wanting them.
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Friday, 12 May 2023, 03:25 PMNice bench, I really need something like that, my knees are not up to crawling around on the floor anymore.
I here that mate. With me it's my legs, doesn't help when you put more weight on as you get older.
Quote from: Tony Nitrous on Friday, 12 May 2023, 04:00 PMQuote from: Nic on Friday, 12 May 2023, 03:18 PMPics of the work bench/ramp etc.
I have 4 of these...
(https://i.ibb.co/khLfqS9/2349-DA83-D73-B-44-EB-B51-E-EC01-BE798-DE9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9qxLyrV)
I don't use them for maintainence or daily use, but they are good for long term projects. Stuff I can put away for a while and pull out when I find parts and do jobs on them. I use my hydraulic benches to lift the bike then roll them on or off. I have a couple of long term projects so with these being on castors I can put them tight together in a corner when not wanting them.
Well that's me gone then :clapping:
Quote from: Nic on Friday, 12 May 2023, 04:26 PMQuote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Friday, 12 May 2023, 03:25 PMNice bench, I really need something like that, my knees are not up to crawling around on the floor anymore.
I here that mate. With me it's my legs, doesn't help when you put more weight on as you get older.
I had to remove and refit the B-King Reg/Rec this week, it bolts under the swingarm. Me thinking it's only a couple of bolts won't bother putting it upon the bench. Dumb idea. I'm too old and worn out to be kneeling or lay on a concrete floor anymore. Bugger that.
Awesome, thx Nic, I'm going to make one of them myself. :cheers:
Quote from: KiwiCol on Friday, 12 May 2023, 08:51 PMAwesome, thx Nic, I'm going to make one of them myself. :cheers:
Way to go Col.
Anyone seen this before
sprocket.jpg
This is the wonderful rear sprocket I received, it was supposed to be a JT but it's an RK, the pic isn't the best but you can see grooves to buggery in between every cog. I've messaged the seller, awaiting his response. This project is cursed I tell ya.
Nic, fairly sure thats a MX sprocket, mud grooves. No idea if for road use.
Quote from: grog on Saturday, 13 May 2023, 11:10 AMNic, fairly sure thats a MX sprocket, mud grooves. No idea if for road use.
Thanks mate, I'm sending the whole lot back, that sprocket will chew your chain out in no time. I washed my original sprockets, there is plenty of life left in them and the chain had no tight spots. Now of course I need a new rivet link. I'll buy new chain kit further down the road but for now I'll just put the old stuff back on.
A few minutes later: Went out and checked my stash of links, found 3 530 gold rivet links, the chain is gold but no name on it, now I have to clean it :cry2:
Nic,had a google,they seem to reckon grooves extend chain life.Ive never heard of them before. Someone on here will know.
Quote from: grog on Saturday, 13 May 2023, 11:37 AMNic,had a google,they seem to reckon grooves extend chain life.Ive never heard of them before. Someone on here will know.
:shocked: Thanks again mate, well if it can be confirmed I'd be happy to keep it all, better hold off on cleaning that chain.
My googling comes up nada, a bit of stuff but all about mud and MX as you say. I still think like an old bloke, that grooved thing I have here me no like it.
Rightio then, the rear end is finished. The old sprockets and chain are back on.
The chain is so much quieter with all the spray goop removed, now oiling the chain with Castrol VMX80, thanks grog, spinning the wheel is quite a bit easier and it spins further than with the goop.chain.jpg
I found some thin aluminium sheet so I made some shims for the cush drive, realized you only need 5 shims not 10, so I put them on the decel side of the rubbers, make a diff? who knows. Put a little rubber grease on the rubbers, the carrier went in quite easily, I would have preferred a little tighter but it's definitely an improvement.
Should be noticeable on the ride but new rubber will be the go down the track. Putting the rear wheel on is a bit of a nightmare IMO, maybe there's a secret way but I got nothing.cush shims.jpg
So now all's that's left to do is the front tyre, expecting that to be a breeze compared to the rear.
Oh and @grog I tried the rag in the sprocket thing when adjusting the chain, sorry mate, it didn't work, leave about double the slack in the chain then do up the axle seems to work for me, only did it the one time.
What a joke, I bought all those parts and used the carrier bearing and seal and the tyres. Doesn't matta, beautiful :cheers:
Bicycle inner tyre also works as a shim.
Quote from: mlivkovich on Saturday, 13 May 2023, 05:12 PMBicycle inner tyre also works as a shim.
Some models of bikes are a lot harder on them than others. I've used red heavy duty / harder ones that do the same job but cushion and wear less.
Only bikes I ever had problems with cush drive rubbers where four stroke dirt bikes i.e. thumpers.
Quote from: Irish in Oz on Saturday, 13 May 2023, 06:39 PMOnly bikes I ever had problems with cush drive rubbers where four stroke dirt bikes i.e. thumpers.
Then you should have a look at MVAgusta: on Brutales & F4s at least, cush drive rubbers are to be changed every 6000Km or so... And indeed, after about 6000Km, the sprocket carrier has a lot of play...
I'm glad I never owned an MV Augusta dirt bike.
How do you lot kill the crush drives? Mine are still fine.
Quote from: Hooli on Sunday, 14 May 2023, 04:44 AMHow do you lot kill the crush drives? Mine are still fine.
My GSX14 ones are fine.
I've only had issues with Hayabusa's that have had plenty of use at the drags. It's common enough that they sell upgraded ones for them.
All finished now, went on a 50K test ride, words fail me. New tyres always make a huge improvement and that alone is probably one of the best things you can do for your bike.
There used to be a slight zingy vibration in the pegs at 100ks in 6th, that's gone.
There is no noise at low speeds, the bike is smoothest it's been in the 3 years I've owned it. Out on the country back roads I just wanted to go faster and faster, before this work I'd get home feeling like maybe I need a new bike or even if I've had a gut full of riding, after this moderate up grade the bike is a blast to ride.
The shims in the cush drive didn't go un-noticed either, from decel to acel it is seamless, before it felt like the chain was WAY loose.
So with a new sprocket carrier bearing and new tyres it's a new bike, oh and the sounds of the new trioval slipon is really nice as well. I'm especially happy with how smooth and quiet the bike is and very happy that there is maybe 2 kilos of muck gone from the bike.
All in all with all the f/ups with parts, the bike now is back to being something I want to get back on :cheers:
Nic I have always struggled with rear wheel replacement..BUT..
I recently had my swing arm out and so this time the wheel replacement was WITHOUT the Torque arm being in situ.. This made a Huge difference to how easily the wheen went back on!
In fact it went so smoothly that I actually thought I had done it wrong !
In the past I never have removed the Torque arm (laziness) and it was a battle and a half!
One little trick I have used over the years on many bikes is to "wodge" an upside down shovel/Spade under the tyre and then move the shovel in or out as required to get the axle hole to lign up with the swing arm...
Well done on your rear end resto mate.
S.
Thanks Speedy, yes I think next time I'll undo the torque arm for sure. I read about the shovel trick, I have one 10 feet away and just never thought of it.
While I was sitting outside on my back porch enjoying a well earned scotch n coke, it dawned on me, while I was doing the front tyre this morning I remembered that I had a
cheap trolley jack with a piece of 2x1 pine raising the front wheel by jacking up under the headers, as you do this the rear wheel lowers, helllloooo :facepalm:
This is the answer to an easy putting back on of the rear wheel.
That's it.
Now if only I can remember this next time.
Oh and thanks to those who commented during this exciting thread, I appreciate it no end. Let's have more bike talk please, less days of our lives :whistling:
Cheers Nic, more Scotch n Coke too!
Quote from: Nic on Sunday, 14 May 2023, 03:37 PMWhile I was sitting outside on my back porch enjoying a well earned scotch n coke, it dawned on me, while I was doing the front tyre this morning I remembered that I had a
cheap trolley jack with a piece of 2x1 pine raising the front wheel by jacking up under the headers, as you do this the rear wheel lowers, helllloooo :facepalm:
This is the answer to an easy putting back on of the rear wheel.
That's it.
Now if only I can remember this next time.
Oh and thanks to those who commented during this exciting thread, I appreciate it no end. Let's have more bike talk please, less days of our lives :whistling:
I used to errr "like" Whiskey..
Yhese days it creases my stomach..Like extreme indigestion..
For some reason G&T's dont do..
Therefore I just have to force myself to drink G&T's (multiples)..
Hic
S.
Nic, great write up and pics. Much better than i could do. Tried shovel and jack methods struggling with rear wheel, shovel much easier. A job i hated made easy. Sorry my rag in sprocket didnt work, just looked my EK now at 20 th ks, never needed adjusting, best chain IMO, No wonder my chain adjusting tip a failure.
Thanks Nic, you've got me thinking about my cush drive, I think I might try the alu or bicycle tyre shim trick. Mine needs a good clean and I really should check that swing arm bearings too. You've inspired me to get onto this quicker now.
Well done mate
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Sunday, 14 May 2023, 07:11 PMThanks Nic, you've got me thinking about my cush drive, I think I might try the alu or bicycle tyre shim trick. Mine needs a good clean and I really should check that swing arm bearings too. You've inspired me to get onto this quicker now.
Well done mate
Thanks Eric, just my opinion but I don't like the tube shim idea, I don't like to put something in there that is softer than what's already in there. In the good old days with the Honda four you had to have the wheel on the ground, sprocket side up and stand either side ON the sprocket applying weight to the left then the right back n forth before the carrier would go into the cush rubbers, that's how tight you want them, by adding some rubber grease your not going to have that much resistance but in a perfect world you want that tight as can be. Mine feels great right now while riding but I'll be looking into new rubbers because I can see where they have deformed over time. When you have your rear wheel off, lay it sprocket up on the ground/bench, grab the sprocket either side and see if there's any play trying to rotate it back n forth, that's the first test, any play at all and you need to address it. The alu shims worked well in my case, probably somewhere near 1.5mil thickness.
Quote from: Hooli on Sunday, 14 May 2023, 04:44 AMHow do you lot kill the crush drives? Mine are still fine.
Probably stuffed carrier or/and wheel bearings, I check these every time the wheel is off, so that's at least every 10,000 klm's.
Thought I should measure the alum I used for the shims. It's around .8mm
It's an old oven tray I think. Steel would work just as well, go to your local dump and have a scrounge around.
35 to 40 quid for genuine rubbers, I would be putting in new one's, if they don't fit tight you have a serious problem.
Quote from: Nic on Wednesday, 10 May 2023, 01:06 PMI've started a new thread regarding doing some work to my K7.
The plan is to check and replace if needed front and rear wheel bearings, sprocket carrier bearings and swingarm bearings/grease.
Because I need new tyres I figured I'd go over everything that can impact the ride, I'm not too worried about steering head bearing and grease so I won't be looking at that right now.
I also decided to replace the chain and sprockets even though I'm not sure if they need changing, I'm gonna do it anyway, cleaning off the old chain with all that goop from the spray lubes, I'm not inspired to do it, rather replace the lot. While I'm at the front sprocket I thought I'd put in that Clutch slave dust cover mod. I imagine there will be quite a bit of cleaning back there and yes, I'll attend to the push rod so as to look after the seal on the R/H side, the dreaded one.
As some will be aware, I ordered all the bearings from Wemoto and now know that they sell either All Balls or Slinkey Glide bearings, now we've all heard of Slinky Glide right :facepalm: Well maybe not, anyway I decided that I would not use them and bought Koyo brand bearings.
Most of what I need is still in the post and some not even in the post yet but today I received the Koyo sprocket carrier bearing and thought I'd start this thread off by showing you a pic comparing the All Balls to the Koyo.
carrier bearings.JPG
The one on the right is the All Balls, you can plainly see the Koyo has bigger balls, need I say more.
So now it seems obvious why the All Balls dies prematurely.
More to come as the work commences once ALL the parts are here.
So far I have the Carrier bearing and seal, the clutch slave dust cover and front wheel seals.
I bought another oil can and just received 1 litre of Castrol VMX 80W.
The tyres should be here tomorrow or Friday. The wheel bearings I bought from some place that now tells me they are out of stock so how long I wait for those is anyone's guess, don't you hate when you think you are buying something only to find out AFTER you give em the dough, they don't Fu#%#^* have them.
Also something strange going on with the chain kit as well, no idea when that will arrive, so far tracking says " shipping information received " great, Oz post doesn't even have the thing even after I emailed the bloke after hearing nothing for some days, he says sorry, he's been away and will "Express" it out asap, the next day I get tracking number, that was 3 days ago.
Originally I rang my usual bearing place but they had nothing, this is why I've had to buy online, go the 21st century. Wait til it's all cashless, that's another story.
So the whole thing is dragging out big time, I thought while I wait, I'll start the thread now just to show the diff between the two Carrier bearings.
Nice job Nic, when you start it seems like a big job but when you are finished and get riding again it was all worth it. Did mine ( chain / sprockets, bearings and swingarm ) last winter and recognized some of you issues also. Results are very satisfying.
Quote from: BbigMmac on Tuesday, 16 May 2023, 04:17 AMNice job Nic, when you start it seems like a big job but when you are finished and get riding again it was all worth it. Did mine ( chain / sprockets, bearings and swingarm ) last winter and recognized some of you issues also. Results are very satisfying.
Thanks Mac, yep, very rewarding indeed. I learned one good lesson. If you're going to do your own tyres, make it a separate job.
For reference I looked up the oem part for the cush rubbers at the mick hone website. $100 AUD for the set of 5.
Screenshot_20230517_131712_Samsung Internet.jpg
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Wednesday, 17 May 2023, 03:21 PMFor reference I looked up the oem part for the cush rubbers at the mick hone website. $100 AUD for the set of 5.
Screenshot_20230517_131712_Samsung Internet.jpg
The heavy duty Busa ones are quite popular, there's 2 sorts, Gen-1 99-07 and Gen-2 08-20. I don't have a 14 set at hand but it'd be interesting if either fit a 14 as the Busa ones do fit some other models.
https://robbushmotorsports.ecwid.com/Heavy-Duty-Rear-Wheel-Cush-Drive-Dampers-Hayabusa-99-07-p185334928
https://store.schnitzracing.com/schnitz-rear-wheel-cush-drive-dampers-suzuki-hayabusa-08-20/
1400 part no is 64651 35F00, the Busa is 35F20, so would be a different size, shape, etc. Thx for checking though.
1400 has 5 rubbers Busa has 6.
Quote from: Irish in Oz on Wednesday, 17 May 2023, 04:33 PM1400 has 5 rubbers Busa has 6.
As I posted above, there are 2 different sorts. This is the more popular 08-20 Busa and B-King wheel...
(https://i.ibb.co/Wg5Z063/BF3-D395-C-D6-B3-4-F0-A-BF62-EC5246-C5510-B.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zGxpFr5)
Not saying they'll fit a 14 but they have 5 and have the same fitment as some other Suzuki's.
As has been shown before part numbers not matching is a good guide but not a guarantee. Next time I have the 14 wheel out I'll check them side by side and know for sure.
I think the Gen-2 Busa and B-King cush drive rubbers have different part numbers too, although the wheels are identical.
Compatibility listing from Mick Hone:
Quote from: Tony Nitrous on Wednesday, 17 May 2023, 04:57 PMQuote from: Irish in Oz on Wednesday, 17 May 2023, 04:33 PM1400 has 5 rubbers Busa has 6.
As I posted above, there are 2 different sorts. This is the more popular 08-20 Busa and B-King wheel...
(https://i.ibb.co/Wg5Z063/BF3-D395-C-D6-B3-4-F0-A-BF62-EC5246-C5510-B.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zGxpFr5)
Not saying they'll fit a 14 but they have 5 and have the same fitment as some other Suzuki's.
As has been shown before part numbers not matching is a good guide but not a guarantee. Next time I have the 14 wheel out I'll check them side by side and know for sure.
I think the Gen-2 Busa and B-King cush drive rubbers have different part numbers too, although the wheels are identical.
definitely looks the same as the 1400 cush recesses.
You 14 riders must ride hard. Cush blocks in mine still look/fit like new. Guess i need to turn the throttle harder. :laugh:
I must ride like a wuss too Grog, nowt wrong with my crush rubbers either.
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Wednesday, 17 May 2023, 05:14 PMQuote from: Tony Nitrous on Wednesday, 17 May 2023, 04:57 PMQuote from: Irish in Oz on Wednesday, 17 May 2023, 04:33 PM1400 has 5 rubbers Busa has 6.
As I posted above, there are 2 different sorts. This is the more popular 08-20 Busa and B-King wheel...
(https://i.ibb.co/Wg5Z063/BF3-D395-C-D6-B3-4-F0-A-BF62-EC5246-C5510-B.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zGxpFr5)
Not saying they'll fit a 14 but they have 5 and have the same fitment as some other Suzuki's.
As has been shown before part numbers not matching is a good guide but not a guarantee. Next time I have the 14 wheel out I'll check them side by side and know for sure.
I think the Gen-2 Busa and B-King cush drive rubbers have different part numbers too, although the wheels are identical.
definitely looks the same as the 1400 cush recesses.
I fitted those red ones for 08-20 Busas, from Schnitz Racing. It's not strictly speaking a 'straight fit':
- the overall size and shape is fine -- which is good
- the Busas' dampers don't have the central 'nipple' that prevents the damper to possibly fall off when removing the sprocket carrier -- which is not a problem as it's bit of a pig to remove the '14s dampers sometimes.
- the Busas' have small 'nipples' on each side close to the outer side of the damper. These should be cut-out for the damper to fully fit in the '14 wheel. As you can see in the Busa's wheel, there is a recess in the bottom of each damper 'slot', which is not there in the '14 wheel.
- this is a *very* tight fit and rubber is quite harder: be prepared to have a bit of hard times to fully refitting the sprockets carrier
Cush_Drive_2__35448.jpg
In the past I had to purchase a rear wheel for the 1400, it was supposed to be for that model but turned out to be suitable for a GSX1000R among others.
The main difference was the width of the hub where the cush rubbers go was about 20 to 25mm wider.
Quote from: SpongeBob on Wednesday, 17 May 2023, 06:19 PMQuote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Wednesday, 17 May 2023, 05:14 PMQuote from: Tony Nitrous on Wednesday, 17 May 2023, 04:57 PMQuote from: Irish in Oz on Wednesday, 17 May 2023, 04:33 PM1400 has 5 rubbers Busa has 6.
As I posted above, there are 2 different sorts. This is the more popular 08-20 Busa and B-King wheel...
(https://i.ibb.co/Wg5Z063/BF3-D395-C-D6-B3-4-F0-A-BF62-EC5246-C5510-B.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zGxpFr5)
Not saying they'll fit a 14 but they have 5 and have the same fitment as some other Suzuki's.
As has been shown before part numbers not matching is a good guide but not a guarantee. Next time I have the 14 wheel out I'll check them side by side and know for sure.
I think the Gen-2 Busa and B-King cush drive rubbers have different part numbers too, although the wheels are identical.
definitely looks the same as the 1400 cush recesses.
I fitted those red ones for 08-20 Busas, from Schnitz Racing. It's not strictly speaking a 'straight fit':
- the overall size and shape is fine -- which is good
- the Busas' dampers don't have the central 'nipple' that prevents the damper to possibly fall off when removing the sprocket carrier -- which is not a problem as it's bit of a pig to remove the '14s dampers sometimes.
- the Busas' have small 'nipples' on each side close to the outer side of the damper. These should be cut-out for the damper to fully fit in the '14 wheel. As you can see in the Busa's wheel, there is a recess in the bottom of each damper 'slot', which is not there in the '14 wheel.
- this is a *very* tight fit and rubber is quite harder: be prepared to have a bit of hard times to fully refitting the sprockets carrier
Cush_Drive_2__35448.jpg
Thank you SpongeBob, that was exactly what I was trying to find out. I need to order a set or two and might include some for my 14.
Appreciate the info. Cheers.
Quote from: grog on Wednesday, 17 May 2023, 06:09 PMYou 14 riders must ride hard. Cush blocks in mine still look/fit like new. Guess i need to turn the throttle harder. :laugh:
not saying mine are worn, but after what @Nic posted regarding his rebuild, I still have slow speed hesitation, tps, stps, fuelling chain and sprockets etc all ok, just never thought it could be the rubber cush drive, worth checking I reckon.
The fancy red Schnitz ones, $65us shipping, total = $125usd = around $187 AU before paypal rips you off with the exchange rate if you go that way so more like $200 AU. Oh that's before good ol GST as well :facepalm:
Quote from: Nic on Thursday, 18 May 2023, 09:16 AMThe fancy red Schnitz ones, $65us shipping, total = $125usd = around $187 AU before paypal rips you off with the exchange rate if you go that way so more like $200 AU. Oh that's before good ol GST as well :facepalm:
For me they are the right part for the job on my Gen-2.
I'll let you know what they cost me. I have a local guy who's heavily into his drags and imports a bit for other racers, he uses Brocks, Airtech and other US and UK suppliers. I know I can get them here for around AU$150 but I hope to get better than that.
Quote from: Tony Nitrous on Thursday, 18 May 2023, 09:48 AMQuote from: Nic on Thursday, 18 May 2023, 09:16 AMThe fancy red Schnitz ones, $65us shipping, total = $125usd = around $187 AU before paypal rips you off with the exchange rate if you go that way so more like $200 AU. Oh that's before good ol GST as well :facepalm:
For me they are the right part for the job on my Gen-
I'll let you know what they cost me. I have a local guy who's heavily into his drags and imports a bit for other racers, he uses Brocks, Airtech and other US and UK suppliers. I know I can get them here for around AU$150 but I hope to get better than that.
I'd be interested in a set if you can get them for $150 or less. Maybe some other members as well? Don't know if it would be a drama for you but I for one would be interested. Can send funds when you are ready. If it's a drama just say, no probs.
Actually, forget all that mate, I'll get a stock set sometime in the future, the shims are doing a good job of it for now.
I returned the groovy rear sprocket along with the front one and the chain, refund came through today. All the Koyo wheel bearings are now here, still waiting on the swingarm ones. They will all sit on the shelf for future use if I live long enough.
Yeah Nic, same. A few spare brgs etc on my shelves. They dont stuff up in Oz as much as cold, salty areas.
Quote from: grog on Thursday, 18 May 2023, 06:05 PMYeah Nic, same. A few spare brgs etc on my shelves. They dont stuff up in Oz as much as cold, salty areas.
Well it's bloody cold down here right now mate, at least I'm inland away from the salt air.
Great write up for those of us who haven't done the bearings / swingarm yet. :clapping: