GSX1400 K3 - Resurrection II - WARNING: GRAPHIC IMAGES

[Hooli]

Somewhere like this place https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/ might be able to do you a new connector for the coil so you could fix your loom. I've heard good things about them on other forums for getting OE connectors.

[BanditsHigh]

Somewhere like this place https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/ might be able to do you a new connector for the coil so you could fix your loom. I've heard good things about them on other forums for getting OE connectors.

Excellent, will have a look 

Will have a look for the other loom today ... but as I got up I checked a few boxes and found one with a lot of busa bits in it, including left and right switchgear.

The right switchgear is a match for the K2 with addition of throttle cables ... so could use (minus throttle cables) along with the new loom for now, then buy a K2 unit later  (could always make a switch up for hazards) ... would also have a bike where I can switch lights on/off again

EDIT: Found the other loom and it's a K2 as well ... so two good condition looms to choose from 

All the best ... Barry

[BanditsHigh]

GOOD NEWS ...
Decided to see if I could get coil connector apart, so snipped it off the loom and went inside to work in comfort ... took me a bit of time wiggling this and that and got it apart ... new wire fitted to connector, put back together and onto the loom.

Ignition on and nothing ... no fuel pump priming, CHECK being displayed ... took me a minute to figure out that I had three connectors unplugged ... all plugged back and and running sweetly on all 4 

So now 20 minutes of idling to get the engine flushed out, then drain that and lovely fresh oil and filter.

BAD NEWS ...
I though the frame could be saved, even though the rear frame was quite badly rusted, until I looked at the bracing tube (just under headstock) from the back just in front of the engine ... there's basically  very little of it left ... I poked it with my finger and most of it just crumbled away 

WHAT TO DO:
So, I think the engine is the K4 is gubbed (still investigating), if it is then I could put the K3 engine into it at the moment to get back on the road.

I can then get another frame and start rebuilding a new (good) bike using the K3 bits ... engine has been gas flowed, skimmed, PCIII, full akra system, individual air filters, custom yokes, progressive springs ... when it's ready I'll take the engine back out of the K4 and put it into the new frame ...  then I can bug another engine for the K4.

OR

Buy a new engine for the K4 and get it back on the road and work away on the new bike until it's done.

At least I have a few options ... as long as I can get 16 header bolts out, 8 of which have not moved in over 7 years!!

All the best ... Barry

[Hooli]

If you get a new frame remember K5 onwards is different centre stand mounts. I'm not aware of any other differences.

Not that I think you'll care as having a full Akra you won't have a centre stand fitted anyway.

[BanditsHigh]

If you get a new frame remember K5 onwards is different centre stand mounts. I'm not aware of any other differences.
Not that I think you'll care as having a full Akra you won't have a centre stand fitted anyway.

Oh rub it in ... the lack of a centre stand is a pain in the feckin backside, it's one of the most useful parts of the bike.

But thanks for the heads up ... I think I'll see if it's possible to come up with a stand mod which'll allow it to fit with the Akra system (as both of my 14's have them).

All the best ... Barry

[Rynglieder]

Under your circumstances I'm impressed with how much work you have advanced on the bike(s) already.

I'll be interested to see what you arrive at, although like others I would walk away from that rusty frame 

Best of luck.

[BanditsHigh]

Under your circumstances I'm impressed with how much work you have advanced on the bike(s) already.

I'll be interested to see what you arrive at, although like others I would walk away from that rusty frame 

Best of luck.

It's taken about nine days so far, with a couple of days off and some long/short days, but yes I'm quite chuffed at what I've achieved so far.

I can still do stuff, but takes far longer and the energy drain is nuts, sometimes after undoing a few bolts I have to sit down, but hey at least I'm still around to do it.

Years back I bought a GSXR110 streetfighter with a knackered engine, new engine arrived one day and the bike was back on the road the next. I have a feeling that this'll take me a bit longer, just a bit 

I have an idea for a simple contraption to make taking the engine out simple, none of this having to chock engine up and then lift frame off or lying the bike on its side to lift frame off.

I'll be keeping this thread going to chart my progress or lack of it ... I just wish my first Resurrection thread was still around, it was fantastic to see how the bike started and how it looked after I'd finished.

I'm sure part of that post showed a full 'how to' on disassembling the engine, had pictures and everything ... should still have them somewhere.

With regards the K4, I might take the plugs out and disconnect the injectors to see how it sound just turning over, but I'm sure the big ends are gone ... if I end up swapping engines then I'll take the K4 one apart to find out for sure.

All the best ... Barry

[Hooli]

If you get a new frame remember K5 onwards is different centre stand mounts. I'm not aware of any other differences.
Not that I think you'll care as having a full Akra you won't have a centre stand fitted anyway.

Oh rub it in ... the lack of a centre stand is a pain in the feckin backside, it's one of the most useful parts of the bike.

But thanks for the heads up ... I think I'll see if it's possible to come up with a stand mod which'll allow it to fit with the Akra system (as both of my 14's have them).

All the best ... Barry

I'm pretty sure others have found you can fit the centre stand without the springs to work on the bike, it's when you try to retract it that the Akra causes issues. Personally I find the foot pad bit on early centre stands (K5 onwards the pad is further in as no LH pipe) is in the way of my heel when riding so I'd have taken it of mine if I didn't have one either as it came with an Akra.

[Tony Nitrous]

If you get a new frame remember K5 onwards is different centre stand mounts. I'm not aware of any other differences.
Not that I think you'll care as having a full Akra you won't have a centre stand fitted anyway.

Oh rub it in ... the lack of a centre stand is a pain in the feckin backside, it's one of the most useful parts of the bike.

But thanks for the heads up ... I think I'll see if it's possible to come up with a stand mod which'll allow it to fit with the Akra system (as both of my 14's have them).

All the best ... Barry

I'm pretty sure others have found you can fit the centre stand without the springs to work on the bike, it's when you try to retract it that the Akra causes issues. Personally I find the foot pad bit on early centre stands (K5 onwards the pad is further in as no LH pipe) is in the way of my heel when riding so I'd have taken it of mine if I didn't have one either as it came with an Akra.

Yeah, I have the centrestand for my Bandit, tied to it on a long wire is a bolt that's slim enough to push in by hand just loose.  It's a few seconds to fit or remove it in the shed where it's useful, and I don't really use itbor want it when I'm out riding.  Works well for me that way.

[GSXKING]

I have Yoshi 4-1 headers and still have centre stand however with lifter blocks under rear shocks if I want rear tyre off the ground I use a board approx 5cm high under the feet of the centre stand 👍

[BanditsHigh]

Thanks for confirming what I was thinking 

It did look as though I could fit centre stand to use it, but as you say not when riding as the Akra system gets in the way.

Will try it out later today, so much better than swingarm stands.

All the best ... Barry

[BanditsHigh]

The saga continues ...

Just got a cat N (my '03 was a cat C) '06 frame with V5 for £450 delivered.

It looks (from the picture) to be in pretty good shape meaning I don't have to spend £120 on getting it blasted/powder coated, not only that but has six months MOT'd left as well saving around £15.

My immediate plan is engine from the K3, use the K3 (or nice K2) loom, then take parts off the K4 to get the new bike on the road ASAP.

I can then start restoring K3 bits and replace the K4 bits when ready or buy replacement parts where required.

I'll need to get some "1LF Pearl Deep Blue" paint as there's a nasty big patch of rust on the front RHS of the tank. I was pretty good with rattle cans in the past so I'm sure I can get the tank back to looking pristine, which makes it faster due to the '03 colours of course

Looking forward to having more power again 

All the best ... Barry

P.S. Frame arriving between Friday and Monday ... decided this is my belated birthday present to my self (August 30th).

[BanditsHigh]

Ok, some real progress ... 8 header bolts removed without too much problem, even after sitting for 7 years and exhaust removed



Going to buy some thread restoring taps so I can give all threads a good clean.

I've dug out the lift thingy I used before to remove/replace engine, so I think I'll have a go at dismantling the bike to tomorrow 

All the best ... Barry

[BanditsHigh]

Praise be to the exhaust gods ... two sets of header bolts removed without major issue and two exhaust systems removed 

Also checked to see how best to insure, swap, cancel etc.

So last years insurance was around £140, all prices are for FC ...

1) Swap from K4 to K6 (formerly K3) ... £111
2) Take out a new policy which mirrors the NCB I have (over 25 years) ... £300
3) Cancel current policy ... £50

Also checked to see what I could get with 0 NCB via GoCompare ...
4) No breakdown cover ... £160

So, it looks like I'd be better off leaving the current insurance running, put the K3 engine into the K4 for now, meaning the least amount of work and cost to get back up and running.

I can then see if the K4 engine can be fixed and if so then put it back into the K4 frame and put the K3  engine to the side for now.

Whatever happens engine wise, I can spend the next six months slowly rebuilding the K3 into the K6 frame and put the K3 engine into it when my current insurance runs out ... then I can insure that bike 

Ah the fun ... Barry

[BanditsHigh]

What a hellish two days       

1) Will be stripping bottom end of K4 so removed clutch because I couldn't remember whether there was a plate in behind it joining the two lower halves of the engine casings (there isn't).
2) Removed k3/K4 sprockets covers and all the bits behind (including sprockets).
3) Finally got all frame nuts and bolts undone on the K4, apart from two (see below).


So, now ready to take K4 engine out.

I got my bike lift thingy and cut a few bits of wood to act as spacers, five minutes later engine was lifted without issue. At this point I decided to take front end off as I was going along the 'lift frame off engine' route.

I got the nuts off the two rear mounting bolts without a problem (frame to rear of engine) and that's where it all went pear shaped.

They won't rotate or move at all, tried heat, tried a two pound mash hammer to belt them through, nothing ... tried a half inch drive ratchet with a four foot long pry bar ... nothing moved and now the head of the lower bolt has started to round over as the socket went at an angle.

So for the moment I'm stuck and I (probably) have the same to go through with my K3 engine as well.


Only thing I can think of is ...

1) Drill the bolts in the centre so I can snap them in half, then weld a big nut onto each end and hope that the thermal shock is enough to break the bond ... means I'm only trying to break bond on one end at a time, therefore half the amount of force required (maybe).

2) Maybe drill the ends of the bolts about 10mm deep using a drill about 1mm smaller than the diameter of the bolt, hoping this will then allow the weight of the engine to shear the bolt between the frame and the engine, but can only do that with the top bolt as bottom has limited access.

I can access the bottom bolt by putting bike in its side (to split in half), but for the top I'd probably need to destroy the airbox to give me access.

I'd probably still need to get remainder of any bolts out of the engine lugs, but once out of the frame it'd be easier.


Anybody have any other ideas?

All the best ... Barry

P.S. As the K3 frame is knackered I could take an angle grinder (shudder) to it and cut it up to get the engine out. Will probably have the same issue with the bolts but access would be easier.