GSX1400 K3 - Resurrection II - WARNING: GRAPHIC IMAGES

[BanditsHigh]

So after two and a half days I've finally managed to get engine number one out (knackered engine on K4).

Two days just to get the two engine rear mounting bolts out, using lots of heat, lots of WD40, a 1/2" ratchet, a four foot tube to go over the ratchet for extra leverage and finally my air driven impact driver (think this is the third time I've used it).

Undoing the lower bolt I though I'd broken my ratchet as there was a loud crack as I used it and the long tube, but saw a little mark on the bolt I could keep an eye on, next few loud cracks showed that the bolt was moving and fifteen minutes later it was spinning like it had never been stuck.

Upper bolt didn't take very long, thankfully.

Took me a couple of hours faffing about until I finally got the engine out, I'd forgotten how feckin massive it is!! To think I used to be able to lift that from the ground and put it on a bench, but not anymore, it'll be hard enough getting it off the lift!

So, now need to get the K3 engine out and then put it in the K4 frame to get myself back on the road.

After that it's a matter of starting to do up my K3, albeit with a new frame, but it shall live again 

All the best ... Barry

[hard road]

well done Barry 

Tony

[Hooli]

Looks like a lot of hard work, glad I've never needed to do that.

[BanditsHigh]

Thanks guys 

The saga continues ...

I started with the rear engine mounting bolts this time, and after the debacle with the first engine it all went pretty smoothly this time, more heat, more WD40, breaker bar and impact driver again.

So just over six hours total (with lots of sitting down and getting energy back), loads of cuppas and that's the K3 basically broken down, it's beginning to look like a breakers 


So, tomorrow I'll strip airbox and any other extraneous bits off the K4 and fit (hopefully) the K3 engine. I'll need to have a look at the PCIII and see if I have a map somewhere and reprogram it.

I should be back on the road in the next couple of days ... that's about three weeks without a bike, it's been hell!

Then the long process of getting the K3 back on the road, albeit with a new frame ... once it's ready I'll put the K3 engine back into the new frame ... hopefully by that time I'll have fixed the K4 engine or bought a new one.

All the best ... Barry

[Westcraigs]

Hi Barry,

Sounds like you've got your work cut there buddy and I wish I could suggest another solution to your seized in bolts problem. A scorching with heat would be ideal for most situations to break the corrosion bond, but sounds like a blowlamp would do other damage given the location of the bolts and whilst an induction heat tool would target that heat in a specific way rather than scorching the general area, they are not cheap to buy.

Being that you are into the GSX1400 engine internals, can I pick your brain please about something probably straightforward I'd like to do (but obviously not 100% sure), as per my recent posting here "Engine & Gearbox / Balancer shaft query" - https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=3445;area=showposts ?

Rob.

[BanditsHigh]

Hi Barry,

Sounds like you've got your work cut there buddy and I wish I could suggest another solution to your seized in bolts problem....
Rob.

Didn't you notice I had two engines out of their frames, in other words I got the bolts out, I detailed it above 

All the best ... Barry

[Westcraigs]

Hi Barry,

Sounds like you've got your work cut there buddy and I wish I could suggest another solution to your seized in bolts problem....
Rob.

Didn't you notice I had two engines out of their frames, in other words I got the bolts out, I detailed it above 

All the best ... Barry

Sorry Barry, didn't notice the update.....bet you're very relieved to get the buggers out! 

If you're doing the bottom end work you mentioned, it would be hugely appreciated if you could assist with my query about the balancer shaft locking off device parts please?

Rob

[BanditsHigh]

If you're doing the bottom end work you mentioned, it would be hugely appreciated if you could assist with my query about the balancer shaft locking off device parts please?
Rob

Already commented on your thread, along with many others 

So wasn't going to do any work today, it's been a very tiring few days and another bad sleep last night ... went back to bed for a few hours midday and when I got back up I though sod it, let's see if I can get the K3 engine into the K4 frame.

But before I could manage the doorbell went ... can you guess what it is 



Correct, the new frame for rebuilding my K3 (I have around six months to do it).




Anyway, back to the engine ... after a bit of jiggling around I finally managed to get the engine into the K4 ... it only took a couple of hours and most of that was getting the first rear engine mounting bolt in.

Tomorrow, plug everything in, fit throttle bodies and filters (need to go back out and get them to oil tonight), fit exhaust system, fit oil cooler and new filter, fill her up with some lovely fresh oil and maybe see if I can get the PC-III programmed.

So part of my K3 (the engine) will live again tomorrow for the first time in seven years ... looking forward to the extra 25% power 

Three weeks without transport is not nice!!

All the best ... Barry

[hard road]

well done Barry but don't push yourself !!!! just take it easy.
whats the plan for the new frame, powder coat ?

[BanditsHigh]

well done Barry but don't push yourself !!!! just take it easy.
whats the plan for the new frame, powder coat ?

Not sure, it's in pretty good condition, so could just touch up where required and save myself £120 (for now) ... but not in a rush, so may change my mind later.

I need to watch my money as it's a bit tight, but will be able to get bits and pieces done here and there, cleaning and repairing as much as I can myself ... will be done before I realise it.

Engine wise, when I'm ready to switch it back into the new frame, I can probably get it pretty clean and then give it a light coat of paint to get it looking good again.

The main problem with the engine is those feckin oil drain tubes at the front, they are getting quite rusted and really need replaced, but that's usually a top end off job and around £140 for the two tubes and about the same for the head gasket, so £280 in total.

I'm playing with the idea of buying new tubes and cutting them in half, which means they can be installed with dismantling the top end of the engine, then join them back together again with a rubber tube and clamp. The tubes are purely for draining oil and aren't under any pressure ... it's a scary idea, but I'm also scared about snapping top end bolts!!

It's about 14 years since I last did the K3 up, so it's about time I did it again.

This time I can keep it looking good as I retired myself due to the old ticker problems, so won't be doing 30-40 miles a day all year round. If and when I do go out and it's salty/shitty then I can give it a wash as soon as I get back in, no more sitting outside for ten hours between leaving for work and returning.

Like all you guys I love my 14 and it'll probably last me until I croak it ... again

All the best ... Barry

[Westcraigs]

If you're doing the bottom end work you mentioned, it would be hugely appreciated if you could assist with my query about the balancer shaft locking off device parts please?
Rob

Already commented on your thread, along with many others 

Thanks Barry, you've probably at the age of 63 I'm a tad 'unfamiliar' with these website type threads

Looks like you've got plenty of rebuild works ahead now, I'll be following out of interest to see the finished article take place.

[hard road]

well done Barry but don't push yourself !!!! just take it easy.
whats the plan for the new frame, powder coat ?

Not sure, it's in pretty good condition, so could just touch up where required and save myself £120 (for now) ... but not in a rush, so may change my mind later.

I need to watch my money as it's a bit tight, but will be able to get bits and pieces done here and there, cleaning and repairing as much as I can myself ... will be done before I realise it.

Engine wise, when I'm ready to switch it back into the new frame, I can probably get it pretty clean and then give it a light coat of paint to get it looking good again.

The main problem with the engine is those feckin oil drain tubes at the front, they are getting quite rusted and really need replaced, but that's usually a top end off job and around £140 for the two tubes and about the same for the head gasket, so £280 in total.

I'm playing with the idea of buying new tubes and cutting them in half, which means they can be installed with dismantling the top end of the engine, then join them back together again with a rubber tube and clamp. The tubes are purely for draining oil and aren't under any pressure ... it's a scary idea, but I'm also scared about snapping top end bolts!!

It's about 14 years since I last did the K3 up, so it's about time I did it again.

This time I can keep it looking good as I retired myself due to the old ticker problems, so won't be doing 30-40 miles a day all year round. If and when I do go out and it's salty/shitty then I can give it a wash as soon as I get back in, no more sitting outside for ten hours between leaving for work and returning.

Like all you guys I love my 14 and it'll probably last me until I croak it ... again

All the best ... Barry

i don't think cutting the drain tubes is a good idea, once you make the cut then you have shortened them by 1 to 2mm by the blade, then their will be less pressure on the O rings and could leak !!!!!  I think the only way is to pull the head, and like the bandit/gsxr engines genuine O rings have to be used as they are an odd size.

[grog]

Could you cut bad bits out, silver solder new piece in?

[hard road]

Could you cut bad bits out, silver solder new piece in?

I see that as a bodge that could go wrong    theirs no guarantee that it wont leak and drip oil off the front of engine and on to the back tyre !!!!  the only way is to replace them with new or good used ones. 

[BanditsHigh]

Could you cut bad bits out, silver solder new piece in?

I see that as a bodge that could go wrong    theirs no guarantee that it wont leak and drip oil off the front of engine and on to the back tyre !!!!  the only way is to replace them with new or good used ones. 

There are multiple ways of doing it, the 'proper way' at a cost of around £280 or as you and I have suggested.

My method would work without leaks as the rubber tube, used to join the two bits back together, would deform into the small gap left by the saw blade and the clamp would give rigidity back to the assembly.


Anyhoo ... K4 back on the road with the K3 engine and I'd forgotten how good it sounded, it's got a real snarl to it and that's without the PC-III ... 17 glorious miles in the pissing rain, no waterproofs so lower half got soaked and it was awesome

Does anyone have a PC-III map for a full Akra system? I also have a gas flowed head but it'd be a good starting point, until I can afford to get it done properly.

Methinks a few days off then have a quick look at the K4 engine. I'm just going to take the sump off and have a look, not wanting to delve any deeper at the moment.

All the best ... Barry