Not Starting

[Hooli]

I've had the earth wires rot & fall off the tank. There's enough connectivity for the fuel gauge to still work but the pump isn't happy if that happens.

Easy check when you lift the tank.

Where are they please

Lift the tank & you'll see them. It's the two black wires from the multiplug to the tank, they fit the body of the fuel sensor & pump mount.

[gsxbarmy]

@Chappers given what you have tested - and I know you mentioned the clutch switch - but have you tried taking the wires off the clutch switch and bridging across them with (say) a paperclip and seeing if she starts? I had this on my K7 some years back where I stopped for petrol and the bike did everything but start - turned out that the clutch switch had gone a bit ad-hoc and when I bridged it it all started up.

You can't leave it bridged (as it sets a start-up map, but at least if the bridging works it will eradicate the clutch switch (also sometimes if you have aftermarket brake/clutch levers fitted, the clutch lever can cause the clutch switch not to work - if that's the case I'll explain!)

[Chappers]

@Chappers given what you have tested - and I know you mentioned the clutch switch - but have you tried taking the wires off the clutch switch and bridging across them with (say) a paperclip and seeing if she starts? I had this on my K7 some years back where I stopped for petrol and the bike did everything but start - turned out that the clutch switch had gone a bit ad-hoc and when I bridged it it all started up.

You can't leave it bridged (as it sets a start-up map, but at least if the bridging works it will eradicate the clutch switch (also sometimes if you have aftermarket brake/clutch levers fitted, the clutch lever can cause the clutch switch not to work - if that's the case I'll explain!)

Not tried bridging the clutch switch wires, yes it does have after market levers, Pazzo I think.  Thank you to everyone trying to help, starting to pull my hair out of which i have very little.
The bike is at my in-laws at the moment as that's where i broke down, fortunately they have a huge workshop but means i can't pop out to try stuff.

[gsxbarmy]

@Chappers given what you have tested - and I know you mentioned the clutch switch - but have you tried taking the wires off the clutch switch and bridging across them with (say) a paperclip and seeing if she starts? I had this on my K7 some years back where I stopped for petrol and the bike did everything but start - turned out that the clutch switch had gone a bit ad-hoc and when I bridged it it all started up.

You can't leave it bridged (as it sets a start-up map, but at least if the bridging works it will eradicate the clutch switch (also sometimes if you have aftermarket brake/clutch levers fitted, the clutch lever can cause the clutch switch not to work - if that's the case I'll explain!)

Not tried bridging the clutch switch wires, yes it does have after market levers, Pazzo I think.  Thank you to everyone trying to help, starting to pull my hair out of which i have very little.
The bike is at my in-laws at the moment as that's where i broke down, fortunately they have a huge workshop but means i can't pop out to try stuff.

If you have Pazzo levers then they are no problem, its more the cheapo Chinese copies on eBay that have been known to cause issues at times with starting.

Best of luck with tracking the issue down!!!!

[seth]

Are you a member of a breakdown service so you can get the bike back home
It might just be worth joining to get it back home .

[Chappers]

I could probably get it in my van, its only 15 miles so not too bad. Popped over this evening and bridged the clutch lever switch and took it off and tested with metre for continuity, seems ok, also took tank off and hooked up to battery and pump is running in tank.
Would a fault kill switch cause my issue, if so how to test for it. I stuck the meter on the battery and its 12.8v.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated as I'm stumped. I'm off on holiday on Wednesday so wont be able to look at it for 3 weeks now.

[KiwiCol]

One of your posts mentions work being done on the tacho to show if the kill switch is activated, you wouldn't also have a data tool alarm / immobiliser fitted as well would you?  They are infamous for giving trouble trying to start.

[gsxbarmy]

I could probably get it in my van, its only 15 miles so not too bad. Popped over this evening and bridged the clutch lever switch and took it off and tested with metre for continuity, seems ok, also took tank off and hooked up to battery and pump is running in tank.
Would a fault kill switch cause my issue, if so how to test for it. I stuck the meter on the battery and its 12.8v.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated as I'm stumped. I'm off on holiday on Wednesday so wont be able to look at it for 3 weeks now.

@Chappers did you try to start the bike when you bridged the clutch switch wires? I'd try that - I appreciate you said you had continuity, however, I'd still try starting it with the clutch switch wires bridged. Checking for continuity only proves the wiring was getting power - bridging the wires takes the clutch switch out of the circuit (and the clutch switch itself could be the issue). It's perfectly safe to start and run the bike with the clutch switch bridged (just not in the longer term as you run on a startup rather than "run" map, but ok whilst you get a new switch if indeed that is what the issue is).

You might also try bridging the side stand switch wires in the same way to see if that makes any difference.

Regards the kill switch, easiest way to test it is again to bridge the wires in the plug. If you take the headlight off, trace the wire back from the RH switch to the plug in the headlamp - from what I can make out from the wiring diagram, the kill switch wires are Orange/Brown and Orange/White. Bridge those wires in the plug on the loom side and see if she starts.

[grog]

This not starting issue hasnt followed correct pattern to solve. First 2 steps, is it fuel or spark. You can then follow path to solve. HEI tester on plug lead, easy answer, it either sparks or it doesnt. If you have spark, all good, if it doesnt, then are multiple causes. If you have spark, hopefully do, then check for fuel prob. A quick spray into air box carby cleaner  etc, it should run a few seconds. You then need to see if its a pressure problem or injectors not pulsing.At least doing those things you know why it doesnt run. Finding out specifics is next chapter

[Chappers]

I could probably get it in my van, its only 15 miles so not too bad. Popped over this evening and bridged the clutch lever switch and took it off and tested with metre for continuity, seems ok, also took tank off and hooked up to battery and pump is running in tank.
Would a fault kill switch cause my issue, if so how to test for it. I stuck the meter on the battery and its 12.8v.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated as I'm stumped. I'm off on holiday on Wednesday so wont be able to look at it for 3 weeks now.

@Chappers did you try to start the bike when you bridged the clutch switch wires? I'd try that - I appreciate you said you had continuity, however, I'd still try starting it with the clutch switch wires bridged. Checking for continuity only proves the wiring was getting power - bridging the wires takes the clutch switch out of the circuit (and the clutch switch itself could be the issue). It's perfectly safe to start and run the bike with the clutch switch bridged (just not in the longer term as you run on a startup rather than "run" map, but ok whilst you get a new switch if indeed that is what the issue is).

You might also try bridging the side stand switch wires in the same way to see if that makes any difference.

Regards the kill switch, easiest way to test it is again to bridge the wires in the plug. If you take the headlight off, trace the wire back from the RH switch to the plug in the headlamp - from what I can make out from the wiring diagram, the kill switch wires are Orange/Brown and Orange/White. Bridge those wires in the plug on the loom side and see if she starts.

Yea did try, but fuel pump not priming so just spinning over, will try your other suggestions when back from hols

[Chappers]

This not starting issue hasnt followed correct pattern to solve. First 2 steps, is it fuel or spark. You can then follow path to solve. HEI tester on plug lead, easy answer, it either sparks or it doesnt. If you have spark, all good, if it doesnt, then are multiple causes. If you have spark, hopefully do, then check for fuel prob. A quick spray into air box carby cleaner  etc, it should run a few seconds. You then need to see if its a pressure problem or injectors not pulsing.At least doing those things you know why it doesnt run. Finding out specifics is next chapter

I haven't checked spark but will do, fuel pump isn't priming when ignition turned on, will do as you suggest when back from hols

[Chappers]

So quick update, it has a spark, side stand and cluch bridged, no pump priming but still spins over. Separated kill switch plug in headlight, bridged the wires, pump primed once but won't prime again but spins over, cheers guys.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

Check the fuses behind the lh panel near your knee

[Hooli]

Do you see "CHECK" on the dash?

If so, there is what looks like an unused connector near the the tail light - it is actually a bridge.

Pull the cover (bridge) off and clean up the connector.

Worth a try save pulling apart ignition switches, immobilisers etc.

 

I'm leaning towards rechecking this. I believe the extra plug is for a dealer fit immobiliser & the bridging wires are for the starter & fuel pump circuit (the two circuits Tatcham approval typically needs). I've seen it been an issue on a GSXR & we all know the bikes are pretty similar design wise when you get to how things work.

[Horse]

Personally I woul narrow it down by hotwiring the pump multiple times to take it out of the equation 100% Once you know its a supply problem trace it back to the source