Balancer shaft query

[Will14]

D.D my interpretation is, the red arrow in Eric's case is full stop, 1.5 marks back is the point of 1.5 marks/graduations back from full stop

I think the adjustment of the balance shaft procedure is after loosening the clamp bolt, turn the flat head screw fully clockwise until it will turn no further, then turn the same screw 1.5 mark/graduations stamped on the clamp anti clockwise, hold in place & tighten the clamp retaining bold to 10Nm

The actual full stop & final adjustment positions will differ on each bike, but the procedure is the same

Think i'm correct without looking at the book & hope this helps

Edit: Just checked & I think I was correct other than the final adjustment is 1.5 to 2 marks/graduations

[Dwain Dibley]

I was looking for the stop mark. but it's just turn until it stops, then use the marks.

As you say....the marks used will be different for every bike. All makes sense now at Dibley towers. 

D.D.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

D.D my interpretation is, the red arrow in Eric's case is full stop, 1.5 marks back is the point of 1.5 marks/graduations back from full stop

I think the adjustment of the balance shaft procedure is after loosening the clamp bolt, turn the flat head screw fully clockwise until it will turn no further, then turn the same screw 1.5 mark/graduations stamped on the clamp anti clockwise, hold in place & tighten the clamp retaining bold to 10Nm

The actual full stop & final adjustment positions will differ on each bike, but the procedure is the same

Think i'm correct without looking at the book & hope this helps

Edit: Just checked & I think I was correct other than the final adjustment is 1.5 to 2 marks/graduations

exactly correct.

The manual says 1.5 to 2.0 graduations.  When I first did it, the bracket was dirty and I guessed where the marks were. Now that its cleaned up its easier.

On other bikes, its done dynamically, as in the engines running when you make the adjustment. Usually at idle, then turn CW or CCW until resistance and a whistle or whine is heard, THEN back off say 1.5 or 2.0 markings before locking off.

Most balancers are gear driven off the crank and have an eccentric weight on them. The whine is when the gear mesh reaches almost 0 clearance, so backing it off relives that. The eccentric counteracts the inherent imbalance you get from a transverse 4cyl.

My beemer has two balance shafts  1 for 1st order imbalance, created by the pistons moving up and down,  the second for second order imbalance from the piston speeds at top of the stroke, plus the fact the engine is nearly laying flat (60deg forward slant). They are adjusted dynamically as per above.

I might try dynamic adjustment on the 1402...

Edit, i just tried the same adjustment whilst engine is running, and its the same as per other bikes. Marked position, and undid the balance shaft clamp bolt whilst engine idling at 1100rpm. Turn clockwise slowly and you get a grumbly grinding sound, and feel some resistance, then wind the shaft back 1.5 markings and lock off. It ended up back at the position I put it in statically (I.e. engine off).

Good to know and that the balance shaft can be adjusted to the same effective position two ways.