Clutch system

[Jambo]

What happens when you neglect the hydrolic system for 20 years?



















Slave cylinder and cup have to get changed.

The Master cylinder was in the same state of dirtiness, but at least that won't need to be changed.

Cheers

[Hooli]

That's clean!

When I took mine apart it was jammed due to the amount of dirt between the piston & the plate over it that holds the pushrod. I didn't replace anything, I just cleaned it & put it back.

[KiwiCol]

Was it leaking before?  If not, I'd be inclined to re-assemble it & see how it goes.  Unless you want the peace of mind knowing there's a new bit there, which is fair enough too.

[seth]

 Remember to do the hyabusa extra seal upgrade .
There is a thread here might save future problems.
As @KiwiCol says if it wasn't leaking I'd be inclined to just rebuild it with new seals as it'll be fine if the piston isn't damaged .

[Jambo]

Thanks for the input.
I will rebuild it with repair kit. I have the master repair kit and Hel hose too.
I have the Hayabusa upgrade rubber seal also.
The system wasen't leaking, the reason which made me service the clutch was that I could see something floating around the reservoir on the master, without even opening it!
Made some reseach and it's fixeable!
This bike was my cousin's, and he said "...I never clean the chain, only add oil..." This is not how I am doing things. It specifically says in the manual not to use any so called chain oil, it might damage the O or X rings. I reckon if we use it, it should be soft but consistent,not an oil. But like the stuff that comes with a new chain, and keep it clean.
I guess we can expect, but hope not, to see more of these in the near future, since I am servicing all hydraulics and bearings, which have never been done...she is a K2.


Upgrade


Bonus Picture

[Hooli]

Yeah that's clean for a slave cylinder. The chain lube & crud normally collects right up to the pushrod once a year on mine.

As to damaging the chain with lube, rather unlikely.

[Jeykey]

What do I need besides the Busa seal, for this upgrade ? Just the banjo bolt washers ? Thanks.

[mlivkovich]

You can aneal copper washers and reuse them.

[Hooli]

You can aneal copper washers and reuse them.

You should always anneal copper washers, even if they are new. You don't know how old they are & they'll harden in a few hours I think.


I'm still using the original silver washers without leaks & lost track years ago of how many times they've been apart. I don't anneal them or anything as they aren't copper, just wipe clean & put back.

[Jambo]

Clutch fully refurbished.
I changed the friction disc also and the last disc to install was in the wrong slot, which isn't a big deal.
It was kind of a nightmare to bleed all the air out.
I test rided it and it works, didn't see any major improvements. The lever feels smother. I did not take it on the motorway, where I can give it some gas to see if it still slips.
I guess I can move on to the next job, which will be brakes, which still have original factory fitted rubber hoses and stale fluids.

cheers

[grog]

Well done Jambo. Brakes next, Im sure youll work it out. Cleanliness my only advice. Old pistons etc can clean up nice without replacing. Rubber hoses that arent perished, to me they are ok. Others have different views.

[KiwiCol]

The factory hoses will be ok, unless they're damaged or you want braided hoses.  You'll have the same issue bleeding new brake hoses as you did the clutch.  Some let gravity do it, some suck it through some just pump it through, but new lines don't like trying to pump fluid through.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

Just from my experience, I've  never had an issue bleeding through newor existing  lines, rubber or braided. For a new install gotta leave the lowest point open to atmosphere until fluid comes through, then youve only got the air in the caliper to worry about. Pump the lever slow whilst filling with the other end open and the  fluid displaces most of the air.

On existing circuits i usually crack thr nipple and pump most of the fluid out then add new fluid on top of old, and use clear tubing on the bleed side, this way you can tell when the new fluid comes through. Easy peasy i find.

[Hooli]

Last time I did my front brakes from dry, I cracked the nipples open 1/4 turn or so & filled the reservoir before going for a cuppa. I came back 30mins later, the nipples were wet & it bled up quickly just pumping the lever. Might easier than fighting it to get the fluid flowing.

[Jambo]

What do I need besides the Busa seal, for this upgrade ? Just the banjo bolt washers ? Thanks.

For the upgrade just the seak mate, check out this post!

https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=1840.0

Cheers