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[Video] What's this front brake clicking sound?

Started by SA14, Monday, 26 October 2020, 08:10 PM

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KiwiCol

It's be rare to need pistons as well, they're stainless & usually clean up fine. Usually just a seal kit & bolts & pad pin can be brought locally or on line.  Lots change to SS caphead (allen key) bolts on the caliper, me included.
😎  Always looking for the next corner.  😎

steve porter

Quote from: SA14 on Tuesday, 03 November  2020, 05:15 PM
Just priced a front caliper rebuild kit at $135 per side with pistons. Tempted. Not sure about new bolts and pins though. Could probably use the existing bolts but new pins might be worth it just to be sure to be sure to be sure. I'd like to do it myself but don't have a compressor (yet) to blow out the pistons. Is it necessary or can I just pull them out by hand? I think I've got everything else I'll need. The kits come with some red grease - pretty sure but will check before I order. Was reading the manual and it looks less complicated than I imagined. Any gotchas to look out for?

I'm probably going to take a peak inside again to see if there are any stuck pistons and to investigate that noise again before I do but I'd like to have great brakes so I'm keen to give it a go and this time I'll button everything up correctly. Was thinking of buying some paddock stands too.

I used a combination of clamps and Tyre levers to hold back all but one piston at a time, couple of squeezes on the brake lever to pop one out a bit, clean with brake cleaner and a soft wire brush, push in and out a couple of times and move on the the next piston

KiwiCol

😎  Always looking for the next corner.  😎

grog

Have a look first Mate. Pistons might be ok, we dont get harsh conditions like UK. Seal kit is around $50 both sides. Bolts n slides will be good. Be careful removing bleeders, clean up threads and never seize or similar. Rubber grease is cheap. Fitting pads i use CRC Disc Quiet onto ends where they clip in. Great product, we use on every pad fitted at work. Above advice is all good. Fitting back on, finger tight bolts, squeeze lever to flatten pad pressure, then torque bolts. Just my way, if im wrong with anything , let me no fellas.

steve porter

The disc quiet grog, haven't heard of it, is it a paste?

grog


steve porter

I've always used copper grease, on advice a million years ago, but that would undoubtedly be better, something else to get for the shelf

steve porter


SA14

#53
Sheet! Forgot to update this thread.

So I was over at @Throttle 's place while he was doing stoppies to test my brakes for me and to compare them against his and I mentioned this sound as it was still present even after the caliper overhaul I did. He suspected he knew what it was but got down on his knees and asked me to replicate it. It was as loud as ever and then he found it. It's as Grog suspected. the pads are just a bit loose in the caliper. He suggested the caliper squeak stop (which is a thick rubbery paste) as a few dabs on the leading edges and across the back will take up the gaps and keep them from moving around.

I haven't actually bought any yet but I was able to see the pads sliding up (a tiny but visible amount) knocking on the top of the pad against the caliper then dropping back down after release. That's what the clacking sound is.

Happy to have gone through the caliper rebuild learning process (after much encouragement and borrowed faith). I detailed it in my restoration thread in my signature but here's the hero pic.

Special thanks to all and especially to @Throttle who went above and beyond in dropping in to help me unstick a very stuck piston.

Hooli

Told ya it was a pad wobbling!

Wait till your calipers have some miles on and really rattle. You can see where the pads rub on mine as a good 1mm has been removed from the caliper at each end of the 'hole' the pads go in.

Every now & then I consider getting the faces smoothed off & fixing a small strip of steel or something on there to sort it. I'll probably never do it though.

SA14

Yeah. The sun was shining and causing just the right shadow and I could actually see them physically picking up and dropping back down. That was the clincher. It just didn't sound like a noise a modern machine should be making. On the bight side you pushed me to rebuild my calipers and that was a good thing. Today I'll go and buy some CRC brake stuff and hopefully I'll put this to rest once and for all.

Onto other things.

grog


SA14


SA14

That was the solution.  :boogie: Today off came the calipers again, on went the slurp and yeah, I put too much on and got it everywhere but it wiped up good and worked a treat. Took it for a ride around town for a few hours this evening, didn't hear a single klack, ting, ding or dong.

Thanks (once again!) to ALL and especially to @Throttle. You guys are pushing and supporting me to do things I never ever thought I'd attempt. 

I'm happy I went on those wild goose chases though. I discovered the loose pad which was off the pin and learned how to rebuild my own Tokico 6 pot calipers which is something I never thought I'd ever even attempt let along complete for the cost of grease alone. I now have firm progressive confidence inspiring brakes that are better than it's ever been.

Result.

SA14

Quote from: Hooli on Monday, 26 October  2020, 08:25 PM
They all do that sir. Some makes of pad are worse than others for it, EBC seem to be one of the worst I've found.

It's the play top & bottom of the pad in the calliper, so when you put the brakes on they lift slightly with the rotation of the disk & click as it tap the top of the hole in the calliper. Then drop down again when released.

Just wanted to acknowledge that you nailed it right off the bat and early on - first guess. Nice work. I didn't listen though did I?...lol

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