My GSX1400 Restoration

[KiwiCol]

 @Del   SA14 could use a bit of your expert knowledge & guidance here, if ya don't mind.   


FYI, Del is a master at stuff like this. 

[grog]

I reckon hes going pretty well on his own Col. Amazing job. SA that engine brightener lasts as well as works. Takes ages for it to start to fade. Id prob give yours another go in a few weeks, just to make perfect. 👍👍

[SA14]

@Del   SA14 could use a bit of your expert knowledge & guidance here, if ya don't mind.   


FYI, Del is a master at stuff like this. 

Awesome! Any guidance is appreciated. I'm kind of finished now though. First coat of ceramic drying. Actually it's the second coat because I wasn't fast enough on the first coat and buffedd off the excess after it had flashed too hard so it left some streaks. Fortunately, I use this ceramic coating all the time when restoring headlights so I just re-applied another coat and wiped it off quicker and streaks are gone. Waiting on the first coat to be dry enough (20 minutes) before applying the second then third coats. That should give me about 15-20 microns of protection.

Even though I've checked with the rep regarding coating metals and he says it'll work great this is still experimental but if it works it'll be a major breakthrough in maintaining polished metal surfaces. It's like a glass coating (SiO2 is literally liquid glass/quartz coating) so the finish should be undisturbed as opposed to paint which has a low light transmission spec which would explain why the polished surface was dulled and looked "brushed" from the factory. Hopefully this will solve the problem. I don't ride every day (only insured for two days  a week) and it won't be in wet weather so we're going to have to wait a while before we find out if it does indeed protect the aluminium from corrosion however this is the exact stuff that's used to coat stainless steel surgical instruments so I have high hopes.

But even if it fails to protect it long term (7-10 years is what's mentioned on the bottle) so I'll have to polish the engine covers again, no big deal but I use this stuff every day in my business and it works wonders on headlights (I offer a lifetime guarantee on those) so I'm pretty confident it'll help retard if not eliminate normal corrosion. My headlight mounts still look as polished as the day I did them which was nearly three months ago.

Science mother fuckers! lol

[SA14]

I reckon hes going pretty well on his own Col. Amazing job. SA that engine brightener lasts as well as works. Takes ages for it to start to fade. Id prob give yours another go in a few weeks, just to make perfect. 👍👍

Of all the things I've done this weekend in this light resto project that was the most stunning by far. You are THE man! Literally stunned. Engine looks so good and you helped me avoid masking and painting...hassle. I polish every day - although not metal - but that was serendipitous to the max! Such a great tip.

Have I mentioned how much I love forums?

Can't wait to bolt them on in next! While I'm waiting for the ceramic to dry between coats I'm off to read the thread about removing covers. There's a few gotchas apparently and yeah, I'll be careful with my fingers on the magneto side. Got gaskets and Suzuki sealant and torque wrench set and waiting. Have to be careful with the bolts and oil keeper washes. Roger.

[grog]

Glad you liked it SA. It sure is magic stuff, im also happy the Hardly stuff as good as S100, must get some. I was getting worried about no S100, freight from USA was stupid price. Best products ive used on 14, things that work. S100, VMX gear Oil, Gulf Western Oil, Bowdens Fully Slick, Autosol, Wurth HHS, Cat Crap and my new digital tyre inflator.

[SA14]

Easy side done! Looks ace!

A couple of things. After giving the gasket surface a light emery and blow out I installed it without sealant, dry gasket, nipped up to 8 lb/ft in a star shaped pattern Is that correct? Not entirely sure where to put the sealant but I'm guessing it's on the other side somewhere although I did see a spot at the top of the cavity I could have put a small smear near where a plastic block goes through the housing space at about the 11 o'clock position. Is that where the sealant goes? I left it off because there didn't seem to be any on the original. It came off pretty easily but it's a break in the gasket surface so my instinct tells me a smear there would be smart.

[SA14]

Ok, a bit not sure what exactly to do now in so far as the loose pin goes. Will re-read instructions but any tips and suggestions are appreciated.

The stator and loom hold down bolts will be done up with 7.4 lb/ft and I'll clean (with brake cleaner) and apply a thin smear of loctite 243 but I'm slightly confused now because it looks like it's the big bolt in the centre that needs the loctite - not the 4 stator hold down bolts. As for the sealant, I'm guessing I'll put a dab/smear all around the rubber electrical isolator block?

Also, the gasket was really stuck on the old cover. Should I be smearing sealant onto the gasket surfaces? If so, both sides or just the cover side? What about the right hand side cover?

I'm going to stop here until I get some advice from you guys.

[Hooli]

Get a screwdriver as a lever & use it turn the large gear on the left (the stator magnet) anti-clockwise about half a tooth, as you do that you'll feel that pin pop back into it's socket. It'll stay in place then until you next take the cover off.

[SA14]

Get a screwdriver as a lever & use it turn the large gear on the left (the stator magnet) anti-clockwise about half a tooth, as you do that you'll feel that pin pop back into it's socket. It'll stay in place then until you next take the cover off.

Ok, I've added some text to my post above. So all that looseness is not good? If I turn the large cog all that will fit back into something and feel tight again?

[SA14]

Found this in the e-manual so I know where to apply the sealant. Still not sure about all that loose gearing and pin though. I can see where the pin slots into the cover so I'm guessing it'll all sit still once I slide the cover on. The large ring gear turns clockwise but not anti clockwise. I'm guessing this has something to do with the way the starter works...lol noob.

Still not sure about what needs loctite. Which is the bolt that came loose? Is the bolts that go into the cover that hold all the copper? Excuse my ignorance of the terminology - I hope you know what I mean. If not I'll wait until I'm clear and will make a movie showing what I'm not sure about.

[SA14]

Got it! Thanks Hooli! Now, I just need to understand which bolts need the loctite?

[SA14]

Ok, I think I'm on top of it now. Found this...

If I could add something to this post Dave.

When you remove the generator cover for the fist time for whatever reason, remove the bolts that secure the stator to the cover. Clean them and apply threadlock before refitting. This will ensure that they do not come undone and chew the stator up. It's happened to a member on here recently and was also a common fault on the DRZ400.

[SA14]

All done! But will she start? Did I forget something? Was I supposed to lubricate that starter gear shaft?

[SA14]

Oops. While looking for camshaft chain wear specs ;-) I found this. I knew putting it on dry wasn't right. It's an easy off and on again though. Even when you're not helping you're helping @Hooli.

[SA14]

Time to attack those forks. Here's what I'm starting with...

Bought some tie downs so I can tie the bike to the roof to remove the front wheel. Started with a brass wire wheel on a drill. Now I'm hitting them with emery paper. Next 800 grit wet and dry, then 1,200, then 2,000 and finally 3,000 then 3,000 compound and Autosol on a rotary buff then 12,000 polish on a buffing pad. Should come out half decent, not aiming for every square mm to be perfect. As long as it's shiny from a step away I'll be happy.

As of this post I've finished the wire brushing and started on the emery cloth. I'm about 3/4 way through one fork with emery. Just got to keep reminding myself, the more I sand the better it'll look. Shine is in the sanding not the polishing. Polishing is the last 5% of the job.